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Your perception of what a VPN allows you to do is flawed. It would let you watch UK catch-up TV on a TV.

Just placed my Order - now I need to work out the easiest way to sell a Tesla ;-)

For that price there should be animations and stuff (like in Mercedes Benz and other cars).

Noticed the dashboard cluster needles look like mini lightsabers

You can set up a VPN on a windows PC and use connection sharing to allow the TV to work. You can also set up a VPN on a laptop or computer, use iPlayer etc there and apple airplay/chromecast to a TV with a suitable device... I do agree it's a bit of faff if you're not used to IT/networking so the option of just not careing is also perfectly valid

I believe 3fh is for FL sportline, Pre-FL spoline should be NY5: https://www.oemvwshop.com/3v0857053a-ny5-cover-for-instrument-housing-maze-black-skoda-superb-3v-p2263506/ I bought it last December, which was 100% fit for my 2018 sportline.

Not so much on newer cars, unless you don't get out for motorway/longer runs on a reasonably regular basis and it is all town driving. Regardless with 12k miles, I'd say petrol and with 15k both could work, but with all the hatred/taxing/bans and increased parking charges of diesel, you're better off with petrol (for now). What's your typical and maximum journey lengths though, as it could play into a hybrid or electric vehicle?

So I got a reply from HonestJohn. he has 5 complaints now. We need more. Folks, get emailing otherwise nothing will be done about it!

Guys you must post your system model number and SW version first...

Yes. At least this is how I understand it.

.......fix it until it is?

I was thinking about just replacing it all as well, as had seen Euros do a fully assembled kits, I'm gonna try ordering the washers and see if that gets me by for now!

Let's see if this works. Please read the bit at the top before saying "mine isn't wired like that" if you have a car these tables don't apply to. Note there are a few connections that I don't yet know the functions of, WIP. Abbreviations in the 'via' column like A-4w2 mean "4-way connector at the a-pillar, pin 2" Note also that this hasn't been thoroughly checked, and I may have made mistakes. Mk1 Fabia Door Control unit wiring.docx

I can agree that it is not a bargain but the answer to which colours you will get is that you get the full RGB scale. So any colour you want actually. But onlly one at a time, so no rainbow ;-)

That was why I said if 130 is the round trip, then a 250-300 range. Half it and that's still >130 miles. Once the OP mentioned he is a bit more rural, then the 30 mile hybrid with the petrol backup comes around.

I have got humble bulbs in my Roomster and in 8 years have only replaced a registration plate bulb. Cars are becoming over engineered.

I get where you're coming from on charging. If the 130 miles is the round trip, then any electric car with a 250-300 mile range would have you safely there and back to charge at home. If you're usually doing 30 miles, then the plug in hybrid versions of the cars (Skoda do some too) would be a good fit, as the shorter journeys of 30 miles would be pretty much all on battery and the engine would only be needed if you're low on juice or gone further than the battery range. The 1.4 petrol on it's own, without any battery isn't a bad engine either. On battery you're saving fuel and cold running for short trips and on petrol for longer ones. It also means you can plug in at home to get the next day journey cheap, but you don't have any charge left/away from home you're not going to be left stranded as the petrol engine will be just fine on it's own. I believe there are IV versions of the superb and octavia, which would probably be worth a test drive.

Hi Dean! Thanks! Forgot to mention. My main earth to the battery is fine. I did however look under the black fuse box and found the end black cable had melted part of the fuse box. I moved the cable to the pos connection on the battery terminal. All other cables in that fuse box were OK

It's also written on the paperwork on the car. At least, that's how I discovered mine was from end of June so 8-month in stock

If it ain't broke...

I would say there is probably an NRV passing or a small leak causing all the stored vacuum to dissapate quicker on one rather than the other, assuming you had them both running at the same time and then turned them off and unplugged the vac lines at the same time on both cars? I would say its probably not affecting performance or you would be getting underboost codes but to prove anything you could do with plotting actual boost vs requested on a steady 3rd or 4th gear pull with VCDS and see what the curves look like. Maybe each one is mapped differently

Hi All, New member here. Currently own a 55 plate Fabia mk1 vrs TDI Looking forward to learning lots about my car as I'm already looking to purchase an Octavia or Superb as a family car.

Id take it back to the garage where you got it from and let them take a look.

Given that it seems to be a struggle for a large number of motorists to even inflate tyres correctly, having the ability to change the tyre spec in the infotainment seems a big ask.

I had an engine remap done on its own.

Dzien dobre Przeprasem, nie mowie po polsku. Staram sie, ale to takie... trudne? I'm Irish having lived in the UK for around 20 years, but I always try out my Polish language every time I meet a Pole, because they keep telling me it's an in possible language for me to learn, So I'm determined to prove them wrong 😂 This is a great forum for advice and help 👍 I have vcds but not vcp, and have done some vcds coding on the superb MY16

Just bought (pick it up next week) a 2018 1.4 TSI SE L with DSG auto box. In a sort of metallic brown with beige interior. Coming from a 2 ltr turbo diesel hardtop convertible Volvo, so quite a change!

We've put an order in for a net cost of ~£370/ month. 10K/yr, 60Kwh, fast charge, towbar and assisted driving pack through a salary sacrifice scheme.

That was for the 80 model with Ecosuite trim, heat pump, 3 zone air con and heated rear seats. Quote was on the lease scheme, based on 2 payments upfront, 7k mikes per year over 4 yrs on service plan B.

I had my very over coddled Skoda Fabia TDI with a VNT turbo for ten years and drive it like my great, great granny. It does forty miles four times a week down a 60 mph max A road and nothing else. 2000 revs all the way, mostly behind big trucks and rarely more than 2500. So come sixty thousand miles, I get the over boost problem and limp mode overtaking a truck on a hill at sixty miles an hour. Found my way to this excellent thread and looked at what is involved. At seventy, I am less inclined to crawl under the car and burrow into the exhaust manifold than I used to be, so instead, I read the experiences of the contributors and thought about whether I could free the vanes up by the Italian Tune Up Method. So, I drove it to the red line and held it just under, in second and third on the said A road for about twenty miles. I did this a couple of times and it gradually started to improve. I could still get it into limp mode, but it was happening under more sustained hammering. Then I hit on the idea of blasting it from a roundabout up a long hill in third and pumping the throttle on and off at about 70 up hill. Full throttle and off, full throttle and off. The reasoning here is I was trying to work that vane actuator mechanism and to make the vanes change back and forth to clear the carbon obstruction. The hill is a couple of miles long. After a bit of this treatment, I am pleased to say that I can't get it to go into limp mode anymore. I am giving it the beans up that hill every trip these days and will keep doing it. You have to be cruel to be kind sometimes.

Thanks for the replies everyone If it's only £80ish in labour I think I'll get it in a garage.

Have I logged onto the wrong forum ?!

I’m sure there must be a way to watch ITV where you are? It might need a VPN though?

Same here. I turn off the start/stop system and lane assist.

The correct part is 3v0857053A ( to use with virtual cockpit) the last letter A is very important , the next letters has to do with the color mine is NF8 (silver)

If you have VCDS then look at the A/C system pressure from within measuring blocks, run the engine with the A/C switched on and it should rise, switch off A/C and it should fall, if that is OK then I doubt that its at fault. Secondly remove the auxiliary drive belt, run the engine & see if the noise has gone, if it has then turn all the pulleys & tensioner pulley, the A/C one should turn smoothly in either direction without any catching, the alternator should have a one way clutch which turns the shaft in one direction but not the other, tensioner pulley should turn smoothly.

Another happy owner here. Almost zero issues (slow start of the infotainment a couple of times and once "Clima" module was not available. Restart helped.). A bit over 2000 miles covered since beginning of January.

My axle stand has a V-shaped head, but its only as wide as the chassis points. So no issues. I use this puck on my trolley jack. Works well, and it's not tall to compromise the trolley jack's clearance height.

Really like the look of this R variant

I use an old toothbrush to get into the edges and together with car detergent, scrub it out. I have same around my sportline spoiler and around window trims. My last car (2008 civic) was terrible around the rear light cluster. Same method.

Thank you, this is extremely helpful. I cannot understand though how a cambelt would require changing after just 5 years, regardless of mileage. On my VW Golf, it used to be cambelt at 70,000 miles. I have just acquired a 2016 Octavia VRS 230 a few days ago, the only service history I have is that it's had an 'interval service', brake fluid change, and another 'interval service'. Should I be looking at having the Cambelt soon? Does it give an indication anywhere on the Amundsen?

Aston Martin have announced that their EV,s will be built in the UK from 2025. They just need to get on then with producing Hybrids and the EV,s.

Well finally managed to work out why it was eating rear brakes, handbrake cables were stuck on so that was todays job pretty decent fuel economy on the way over too One thing that i also seemed to get asked is 100-200 times which imo i think are utterly pointless because you're never going to be in that range, 30-70, 50-70 is more my thing but i thought i'd give it ago. Gearing is rubbish for it, it sets a stupid quick time 100-190 but then 190-200 takes 2 seconds because you're above 5k and if you change gear then you're losing the same amount of time with the gear change, logs show ecu is telling the turbo to make 2.1 bar and its making 2.4 though Also came across a couple of folk i knew lately and they got a couple of drive bys without meth With meth hence the smoke Was down to my last meth as well and that was quickly used up after meeting a stage 1 golf r and a 700bhp nitrous'd sierra cosworth so had to order some more which should do me a while and some photo spam from pictures ive took over the last few weeks

I think you won't regret the color choice. Topic about the boot covers:

Wrestling with arch liners and front bumper most of the day. Such an effort just to replace the darn grille!

Lubrication/Treatment of Sunroof Seals In my initial research into my leaky roof i kept coming across a lot of VW EOS Convertible owners boards - it appears that the EOS is basically a collander! One of the solutions VW have offered to fix the problem was treating the various rubber seals on the convertible roof using a special lubricant oil. This lubricant is called 'Krytox' manufactured by DuPont and is an expensive, super high specification PFPE lubricant. It seems that it has the effect of rejuvenating seals causing them to swell and remain water tight - it is also extremely durable and does not react to the elements and contaminants. VW sell this stuff under three part numbers: G 052 141 A1 - Oil based G 052 141 A2 - Paste based G 052 141 A3 - Aerosol based It can also be bought direct from DuPonts UK distributor GBRTech.co.uk who quoted me £30.30 for the 30ml of the oil (Krytox GPL-105) and £38.90 for 2oz of the paste (Krytox GPL-205), not including VAT and £13 fedex delivery. A lot of chat on the forums suggests it can go a considerable time before needing reapplying and that a little goes a very long way, however the oil based version apparently contains a lower quantity of the actual lubricant compared to the paste. There are several alternative PFPE type lubricants that can be found cheaper on ebay etc. including Zarox, Fluorofluid and Whiteline bicycle lubricants - however anecdotal evidence is that these, despite being cheaper are still fairly expensive and are not as good as the Krytox and this a bit of a false economy. Interestingly the Golf and Leon workshop manuals refer to applying the Krytox paste to the seals, however there is no mention of it in the Octavia manual. As such i was a bit reluctant to spend £50 quid on something that may or may not be necessary. In my research i found a lot of references to 'Gummipflege', particularly among owners of MB and BMW cabriolets. This stuff is a rubber conditioner which also appears to rejuvenate the condition of seals (unlike normal rubber dressings which simply make it look shinier) although the reports are that it is nowhere near as durable as the Krytox stuff as it isn't really meant for external use. There are several brands of Gummiplege - Sonax, Liqui-Moly, BMW and Nextzett. The Nextzett stuff seems to be the best rated and i got a 100ml tube from MicksGarage for about £6 delivered so thought it was worth a whirl. It comes in one of those Kiwi-Shoe Polish type applicators with a foam pad on the end. Having wiped the seals down with a damp cloth and dillute washing up liquid and water mix which i allowed to dry, i applied it to all of the rubber seals around the inside and outside of the roof panel as well as all my door and boot seals. There's still loads left in the bottle which i can see lasting sometime. I will see how it goes, but even if i feel the need to reapply every couple of months or so at this stage I dont feel as if im losing anything by trying this first as an alternative to the Krytox. Hope this has all been of use to you folks

Where to being with this, I recently bought my Mk3 VRS used (but new to me) from a good friend. The car has a pano-roof, which i wasn't massively fussed about and on the basis of my experiences so far I will never buy a car with again. Long story short within a few days of buying the car i found the roof was leaking. The issued appears to have been fixed now by my local VW independent specialist who had to remove the roof, fit a new seal, re-bond the roof to the plastic frame and then refit. As a result of my issues I've done a LOT of research into these roofs the last few weeks so prepare for a long winded response. The roofs themselves appear to be manufactured by Webasto however the VAG appear to have a particularly poor track record in terms of leaks and drainage issues when compared to other marques. Clearing Drainage Tubes The most common issues are the sunroof drains themselves becoming clogged and flooding. The way to test this is to carefully run some water into the sunroof tray (i used a squeezy mineral water bottle) and see if it drains effectively - the drain points are at the front and rear wheel arches. Even if still draining okay i would suggest this should be a yearly job. My front drains were nowhere near as efficient as the rear drains. With the roof open, the drainage points can be found in the four corners of the plastic sunroof tray, however the two rears ones are not readily visible and are hidden by the mechanisms. The two front ones are easily identifiable and are circular holes a few millimetres in diameter. These drain points are bonded to drain tubes - I've seen other people have these bonds fail and leak or become disconnected and they have had to drop the headliner and re-bond the pipes to the roof. The front drainage tubes run down the A-Pillar and exit at the bulkhead in the engine bay. The drain tubes themselves are just push fit into a rubber boot at the bulkhead and again in mu opinion there is the potential for this to work loose and leak. The procedure i used to clear the front drains was firstly to open the bonnet and remove the rubber stripping from the plenum chamber cover - it will just pull off. From there you will see there are several metal clips which secure the plenum cover, again these will pull out and you should be able to lift both corners of the plastic plenum chamber cover. The workshop manual suggests the windscreen wipers need removing, but even with my shovel hands i was able to reach in under the plenum chamber cover and feel towards the base of the A-Pillar where you will feel a rubber nipple. You need to manipulate this and you should feel an amount of gunk work clear from the nipples, this in itself should improve the efficiency of the drainage tubes markedly. To clear the tubes themselves some recommend blowing compressed air from the drain point in the roof tray, however VW seem to advise against this and the workshop manuals refer to using a bowden cable or similar as a drain snake. Personally i wouldn't use anything metal or too rigid as the drain pipes themselves aren't especially heavy duty and i could see the potential to cause damage. I purchased some plastic garden strimmer line for a couple of quid from the DIY shop - 2mm diameter, in reality i could probably have done with using the same stuff but a bit thicker as this was a bit too malleable and not strong enough. As such i doubled it up and taped it at several points to double its thickness and make it a bit stronger. It was then a case of gently feeding it down the two drainage pipes - if you hit any snags its probably a bit of blockage, working the cable back an forth it should push through and i was eventually able to get my cable to appear out of the bulkhead nipple and then basically 'flossed' the drainage tube. I repeated this several times and quite a bit of gunk was loosened. I then repeated this on the other side front drain. Finally i used a large syringe containing hot (but not too hot) water and washing up liquid and injected this directly into the drain point just to try and degrease and clean any final bits out. As discussed the rear drainage tubes cant be easily accessed from the top by my eyes. The workshop manual suggests these exit by the rear wheel arch and that access to clear the drain point nipple can only be gained by removing the rear bumper - which looks a right ball ache. I have seen some suggests that taking off the wheel and arch liner should also get you access. You could also clear the tube from within the car - removing it from the rubber boot where it enters the drainage nipple and exits the car, but this would mean removing a lot of the boot trim. This was all a bit involved for me as my rear drains seemed okay, however i will keep an eye on this. My research suggests that the way to clean these drains is again using your improvised drain snake - however this time from the bottom up, feeding it from the wheel arch nipple up towards the roof where it should emerge. I will stick another post on shortly re: the lubrication of the mechanism and seals