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You are looking at the plastic wheelnut covers and not the wheelnuts, one of them will have a larger diameter, possibly the top one looking at the photo, that will have the locking wheelnut beneath it. You should also find a black plastic U shaped clip tool for removing the wheelnut covers.

Is your winter tyre size 215/55R17 ? One of the problems affecting the ride comfort is the wide 8J rims which you may have fitted as standard. 235/50R18 could be fitted to much narrower 6.5J or 7J rims. By fitting them to 8J rims you are stretching the sidewalls which makes the sidewalls flex less easily, and thereby transmitting more of the bumps to you. For comfort, it's also important to choose tyres that have soft, flexible sidewalls. If you are fitting UHP (Ultra High Performance) summer tyres, then these tend to have stiff sidewalls because they are not made for comfort but for handling. Skoda do sell slightly narrower 7.5J 18" rims, in anthracity and silver. TRINITY alloy rims 7.5Jx18 ET46 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/kolo-z-lehke-slitiny-trinity-18-pro-superb-ii-octavia-iii-scout/p/3T0071498A+HA7 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/kolo-z-lehke-slitiny-trinity-18-pro-superb-ii-octavia-iii/p/3T0071498J+8Z8 235/45R18 has a load index of 94 (670kg) @ 3 Bar (44 psi) 235/50R18 has a load index of 97 (730kg) @3 Bar (44 psi) Did you lower your tyre pressures by 0.2 Bar (3 psi) when you changed from 235/45R18 to 235/50R18 ? If not, that would go a long way to explaining why you didn't notice much difference in ride comfort. A 0.2 Bar (3 psi) difference in tyre pressure is easily noticeable. If you want to try out some cheap 7.5Jx18 ET50 steel rims, then these are the size of the ones used on the VW ID.3 electric car. Alcar 9383 7.5Jx18 ET50 Steel Rims https://www.oponeo.pl/felga-stalowa/alcar-kfz-9373#21889193 7.5J is ok for 235/50 tyres, and is really as wide as you would want to go. It's like fitting 195/50 tyres to 6.5J rims. Uniroyal Rainsport 5 235/50R18 97V might be softer riding than what you have now https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Uniroyal/RainSport-5/235-50-R18-97V/R-402383 For maximum comfort, it's important not to have a higher speed rating than you need, or XL (eXtra Load) if you don't need it. For example, 235/50R18 97V instead of 235/50R18 101Y for the Superb MK3 190HP, as the car doesn't go over 240km/h (150mph) and doesn't need tyres with a higher load index than 97. Skoda Superb 2020 2.0TDI 190HP Tire Rim 235/45ZR18 94W 8Jx18 ET44 2.4 / 2.2 235/40ZR19 96W 8Jx19 ET44 2.5 / 2.3

I have just racked up 220 kms in the last week with a day off on Wednesday, mostly trails, very few roads, 62.5 km yesterday, 31 today, all within the 10km as the crow flies radius that we are allowed to exercise in, its very hilly terrain around me, yesterday was 450m of elevation gain, today 320m.

@match14 What engine are you looking at getting with a DSG? Wet Clutch DSG's that have their oil changes at 40,000 miles are really very reliable. DQ200's maybe not so. There are issues that affected ones from 2009-2012, then another issue from 2013-2015, then the Slipping Clutch issue from 2015, then the issue that came with the WLTP introduction from 2018/19 with some DQ200's. VW Group are dropping DQ200's soon with 1.0 & 1.5 TSI's unless with Mild Hybrid. Before they do Skoda are bringing out the Fabia Mk4 1.5 TSI with a DQ200 DSG.

An important point that's been mentioned but is now in danger of being overlooked. It's not just a coding issue. Several different models across the range (not all, and not just Skoda) require uprated radiators and/or oil coolers and/or brake system components if a car is used for towing. The factory prep includes any model-specific uprating where necessary. Further details are in some of the "?" pop-ups on the configurator pages. It doesn't matter if you're just putting on a bike rack with one or two bikes (as I do) or a caravan with the maximum permissible weight, the existence of a towbar/ball allows everything. You can't just say "I'm only putting a bike rack on". There's a real - but in my totally unqualified view, very unlikely - risk of damage to any of these components if they don't meet the towng specifications. In theory this could then lead to litigation and/or unjustified warranty and/or liability claims. I suspect that there are as many opinions on this as there are car salespeople and towbar fitters, and I've spoken to a number of each. I'm keeping my opinions to myself, so don't read anything into my posting about this, I'm just mentioning the hypothesis.

I nearly gave up on F1 at the start of the turbo-hybrid era. Flat, boring races without even the sound of a decent engine exhaust, yet the first 2 races this season have been EXCELLENT!

I don't mean to be rude, but this sounds a bit like a commercial. I'm pretty sure other fitters do the code daily since most modern cars require coding when fitting an aftermarket tow bar.

You are in a strong legal situation, as the dealer has done an non-legal modification. They are the trade expert and legally should have known better. In theory you could threaten to involve the vehicle inspectorate, and advise them that an MOT registered garage is making non-legal modifications to cars and would they be happy for inspectors to inspect yours. Then say would your garage like to do the right thing and you won’t write to inspectors (at which point hopefully garage will realise they have lot to lose if they don’t take hit for their mistake).

Maybe sorted out now. I've gone for a 2.0 Diesel in Quartz Grey from dealer stock. Issue does not affect the Octavia Diesels. Costing a bit more due to the engine option but end of the day its down to lesson's learnt. Figures have been played around with so under our current circumstances we are going ahead. Dealer has offered to pay for my reg plate transfer I don't have to do anything on that (not sure how they do that as if they apply for a retention from DVLA say next week the number comes off the car immediately and I'mstill driving it, we will see). Insurance won't be any more and I can do a deal with the GAP insurance people. The servicing plan I took out can be sorted. Should have the new one within seven days. To be fair the dealer has been extremely proactive on this and I would still definitely recommend them. Others may have been the opposite! Most important, it's already booked in for the towbar! Hopefully I'll get 1K miles on and mostly run in before we go on Hols in May. See what next week brings!!!!!!

That looks like a snail done an impression of the Indy500

thought I'd share something I learnt recently. tried it, and its worthwhile. this is intended for those with DCC shocks and have lowered springs. I've got Eibach ProKit Springs, which has dropped the car 25mm. this procedure recalibrates the DCC, and is recommended to be done after the car has been lowered. the end result is a more refined "bounce" and a reduction of bottoming-out (in Comfort and Normal modes). while the change is not night & day difference, u can certainly feel the DCC rides better now with the lowered springs. u'll need:- - to make sure to jack your ur up, or lift it, so that all 4 wheels are sagging fully, off the ground - an OBDEleven tool (NOTE: this CANNOT be done with VCDS) Go to Control Module 14 - Adaptive Suspension Enter security code 20103. Go to Adaptations Select “Adapting with deflected wheels” Take note of the values, as they should change later. Don’t change anything, instead back out Enter Basic Settings Select “Adapting with deflected wheels” Slide to Start or Press & hold Green tick to Start. It should run for a second and then say something like basic setting ended. That’s it, you’re done. Double check adaptations to make sure the values have changed and saved.

Hi, I had a problem with the OEM armrest insert as my cup would not fit there- evidently simply not-so-clever option in my Kodiaq. As I feel very much attached to my Contigo cup- figured I'll find a solution to that. This is my cupholder solution- 2 pieces of 3 mm plywood traced on the oem insert, cut with dremel, wrapped in self adhesive felt. some screws & washers & nuts to join and adjust the height - and the cup fits now perfect, even fitting under the armrest :) It is removable, fits like the oem insert - if I would maybe take more care on finishing the bottom side, it would be reversible as the OEM one. attached also 1 photo of the prototype to show how the nuts & bolts work. (i also gave the bottom rubber which is removable - a coat of this felt, as it seems nicer now :) )

New car day for me! I've spent an hour or so negotiating the menus; setting up my keys etc. And I'm very impressed. It's the 2nd skoda I've owned (1st being a 2007 fabia vrs SE) and I'm very glad to have a skoda back on the drive. The car needs a good clean and some attention to the paintwork plus some new centre caps etc. But over all I'm very pleased. Seems to have a great spec including wireless. Charger, heated screen etc. Will no doubt have some questions in the near future, so stand by! Cheers 👍

Towed my caravan for the first time today, I was very impressed with how it did it with ease. Equally as good as the VW Tiguan it replaces. Yetis make surprisingly good tow cars... 2017 SKODA YETI 2.0L TDI 4x4 OUTDOOR SE L DRIVE TDI SCR DSG

Hi, I'm Anirudh, living in Dublin, Ireland. I love maintaining and modifying my car and read tons of articles on here and now, I feel I can contribute. I'm the owner of a (new to me) 2009 Skoda Octavia Elegance Mk2 FL. As with a car of that generation, I've spent many hours trying to figure out the Bluetooth mess and came across all the VCDS mods I could do. Jumped on getting an OBD11 Pro (It can do pretty deep diagnostics and long coding and that's all I need). I see that a lot of people have trouble finding someone with VCDS (myself included!) so feel free to reach out to me if you need to do some coding / diagnostics!

Update from my Haldex oil change today, all went well but I struggled with the following steps: a) The two Torx screws keeping the Haldex ECU in place, the bottom one is very close to the drive shaft flange and all my tool combinations were either too short or too wide to clear it, not any set will work there, you've been warned! I was saved by a really thin wrench I had in my tool case which i managed to squeeze between the screw head and the flange at an angle, get the hex bit in and clear a valuabe 1-2mm to operate it. However this proved to be a wasted effort as... b) The ECU plug connecting the Haldex ECU to the pump, yes those dreaded locking tab connectors VAG uses that if were designed with 40% less stiffness on the tab, they would be just as slip-safe but possible to remove from all those pesky, limited-access locations with just one hand instead of endless pulling, swearing and finger crushing in vain... I thought I had got the hang of them after so many JB4 installations and its infamous plug D but it just wasn't my day so, if you find yourself in the same position, you can proceed without disconnecting the pump from the ECU at all. Here's how this slightly alternative approach works: You still unscrew the ECU (remember it takes a special extension or very thin wrench to achieve that) to make more slack for the wiring. You unscrew the pump but obviously don't stretch it now as it's still connected to the ECU, instead you need to be keeping it up. In some videos they suggest leaving it to rest on the exhaust pipe next to it but I didn't want to take my chances and as I had a buddy with me (always a good idea for jobs you've not tackled before) he took over "support duties". You can then work as per the usual instructions while having the pump up. c) One last thing, the M10 filler screw... I have a few tool sets and combinations with which I've completed several jobs in the past, however all my HEX bit sets were stopping at 8, i had actually never needed a 10 HEX bit so far... Why on earth this is not a HEX head bolt but a socket head only VW knows. Of-fcourse I had a good old Allen key set that could do the trick as it included a size 10 key, but not possible to mount on a torque wrench to apply precisely the 38Nm specified upon re-assembly. So, I just relied on common sense to tighten the new bolt back with the Allen key, if you want to do it right make sure you have a 10mm bit before setting off. And now time for the star of the show... I had seen people cleaning their Haldex screens at 20-30K and they were looking only mildly dirty so i had some doubts how dirty mine would be / how necessary the whole operation after 2 years and 22.000 km. Yes I have done at least 20+ launches with the car, and it's tuned too but I was still shocked from this sight upon pump removal: The screen was in that sorry state at all sides, not just the one seen in the photos There had recently been the occasional trumping during launching, but only then, not in normal driving so I had suspected it could be slightly clogged, not that horribly though. After I saw this I can only say I'm glad I did it and it will be added in my list of yearly or 18months max maintenance, it's going to be much simpler and quicker next time I reckon. Again thanks to Bap for this guide that detailed the process and provided a great basis to work on

Hi. Just to let you know that we offer a 12 month product called Total Loss Protection. Whilst it's not exactly the same as your traditional GAP insurance we feel for some customers it can make a cost effective alternative. Please feel free to take a look if you wish. https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/extras/total-loss/ Regards, Dan.

Yes, but it won't work, because 1.6 flywheel doesn't have cutouts that serve for position detection. And 1.3 flywheel won't fit. I think I've seen kit for 1.6, which used modified crankshaft pulley and sensor mounted next to it. gearbox is not based on Favorit (which never had 4 speed gearbox), it's Trabant's design, it's just coincidence (probably due to centrally planned economies reusing same designs/licenses)

505.01 is the correct oil. Both the ones being compared by the OP are approved to this spec. Product info for the two here: 11044_Platinum_5W-40.pdf (tps.trade) 11044_Platinum_Plus_23_5W-30.pdf (tps.trade)

Pass on what its saying about realtime POIs on a Skoda. The stored POIs should be being shown if you toggle them on. Will be in the infotainment menu. You are allowed a set of nine or so in mib. If you have particular needs you can import other ones with Poinspect0r if you Google that. Takes some effort to set up but once done you can import your own still within the limits of how many poi groups you can show at a time. It has a Skoda, VW, Seat user base. It replaces the now deleted VW website in German and the Skoda one that doesn't work very well. Mib1, Mib2 and the previous RNS. Doesn't work with Mib3 where there is (currently) no Poi import menu within the infotainment system (how people get the beeps with their speed camera databases they import themselves). But as said takes some effort at PC computer skills but once done it's there to be used. You can use it to save destinations from coordinates, it's an old Skoda trick I was told about :). Swiss army knife for getting user POIs in, but there will be built in ones on your map file for sure. https://poinspect0r.blogspot.com/?m=1

Passenger side now working spot on, with the same relay bypass method.

looks like it will..................but................"imo" do you expect it to be any good with all those features but only costs £86

The limiting stopping power on a car is the tyres as they give up grip before the brakes stop working. So get grippier tyres if you want to stop quicker. Thanks, AG Falco

Probably a thread in its own right, but I am not a great fan of pure hybrids as I can't get my head around using an IC engine to charge a battery to power a car? I can't believe that you get that much of a boost from regenerative braking, and most people I know who have them don't seem to get any better economy than a straight IC powered car. I manage 44mpg out of the AWD Yeti, and our other car is a 1.5 petrol (Mazda), that averages 55mpg. OK I accept fuel economy is mainly down to driving style and the type of journey you are doing. I can see the value of a plug in hybrid if you are doing regular shortish trips, and I can also see the benefit of all electric cars now they are getting 100+ miles. But I can't help thinking that a straight hybrid is a bit of a con to meet some arbitrary government emissions target....a bit like Stop / Start?...but that's just me....

DSG can break like a manual gearbox can. The only difference is the repair will be more costly than the manual. Be prepared to pay if the worst happens. But if you decide to buy, forget about and enjoy the ride!

More details of Honda HR-V available on line. Could be a realistic replacement for Yeti while moving into Hybrid technology.

A friend has a 2004 Audi TT with a DSG in it and it's never missed a beat. We're on our third (two DQ250's and one DQ200) and all have been faultless. Gaz

Daveyeti, where did you get the weights from? According to Parker's, your Karoq weighs in at either 1269 kg or 1363 kg if you've got the DSG. Your old Elegance Yeti 170 was between 1460 and 1565, depending on whether "Outdoor" spec or DSG. So the maximum difference on Parker's is under 300 kg, and at their closest only 93 kg, nowhere near over 400 kg. I've always found Parker's figures are "like for like", so comparisons within their website are valid. Autocar shows nearnough the same, give or take 10 kg. I'm not saying you're wrong or looking for an argument, but that's a big difference.

DSG is just as reliable as a manual given care and serviced at the specific intervals. The mechatronic ecu can go faulty and it can be costly. But with the newer ones they are more reliable than the older ones. I have the DQ250 6 speed on my car and it is my first DSG. Really like it and I would buy another without hesitation.

Sticker problem solved. thanks to brother and his corel talent

Unfortunately there's only one winner when buying cars and it ain't us. All the best.

My two penneth: Avoid diesel if you only do low miles. If you even think you may want a tow-bar, search out a factory-fitted one. Don’t fuss over heated seats (both my Superb and Kodiaq have had working - and tested - heated seats that are nowhere near as quick and effective as those I’ve had in Ford, Saab, Volvo and Mercedes-Benz (I expect to feel the heat in the first 200 m, not five minutes later!) Go with DSG - so easy. Yes the 2.0 diesel will have more “oomph” than the 1.4/1.5 petrol. The real question, though, is how much oomph is enough, for you. I have been surprised (no, amazed) at how well my 1.4 handles five adults and a bootfull of eight cases. The only way you’ll know if it’s enough for you is to get a decent test drive.

Nice looking car mate and nice to see a few Aussies here in the collective Skoda forum. I'm in Central West NSW and just recently purchased a Karoq Sportline. Love it and it sure beats any other vehicle I've owned. All we need now is a sub forum for all the Aussies 😀

You get gremlins with any car. The 1.5tsi stutter is a well documented problem but I believe VAG have done a fix for it. I wouldnt be put off by it as any car can have issues. I would go and enjoy your test drive. Like you I will make the switch back to petrol next year. Either a new Skoda Octavia VRS petrol hybrid or the 2.0TSi. However I have my eye on a Superb 280 L&K.

My horizontal bushes "look" and "feel" OK as they are installed but might look different when you have them in front of you dismantled as you show. I will probably go for the whole wishbone part, saving me the hassle of pressing out and in. Thanks again. Robert

Errr, asking for a friend, of course. Is there software to compose such things, and does that mean that you could compose T-shirts with more-or-less arbitrary messages on them that no one else could read? Just hypothetically, of course.

So much better mate. Love the look of it. 👍🏼

I have, but it doesn't sound like I did as much preparation as you're planning on doing. Getting them off was a complete pain - I'm not going to lie, but I had grazed knuckles, shouting matches and a strop (at least once). Let me put it this way, they are back on the car now - they are never coming off the car again. I washed and cleaned them down - so no dirt or anything like that, I didn't however do any kind of sanding or rubbing. I was happy with the finish on them and was happy to go straight to primer and then paint. I just used a metal primer spray can on them, being careful to make sure it was an even finish, no pools of paint etc. I then used Halfords high temperature, gloss black engine paint (spray can again) and gave them a number of coats - ensuring each coat was nice and dry before I applied the next. Again, careful with the spraying, not rushing and making sure it was nice and even coats. I am more than happy with the result - they have been on the car for about 18 months now since the paint and they still look very black and glossy, no loss of colour etc.

Isn't every problem posted on here a first world problem.

I would unplug the front right light harness and spray some electrical cleaner on it. Then plug it in and out a few times to ensure the cleaner get to all th4 connections. My guess would be some moisture has gotten inside and module is reading a higher resistance so thinks it is faulty.

They are bonded on using automotive body sealant, so very strong. you could try and run some fishing line underneath it and run back and forth like you would to de badge a car. I’ve never done it with a spoiler though.

I used a desolve it spray starting at the top, left it for a few mins and then used dental floss in a sawing motion and it'll come off clean. clean and polish the paint before refitting. altho I'd get the paint damage sorted before refitting

Just changed the interior lights on my late 2017 model. Boot, footwell, glovebox and front door warning lights are easy. Swapped them for W5W Philips Ultinon 6000k. No error, simple plug and play. Overhead lights are also relatively easy to swap, but for these I had to buy W5W Canbus leds as it would not work with the Philips Ultinon. For boot, footwell, glove box and door warning light I would recommend to buy “flat” style led lights as it lights only one side. For ceiling lights it is better to buy normal bulb style which produces light in all directions. I am also going to change the sunshade light (above the small mirror). Those are C5W style. All in all I am happy with the look. Did not like it before where there were several different shades of yellow-white-ish colour.

At last and after a long break - here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( February, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams February, 2021.zip

I had the pleasure of driving this at the weekend! (ps. No comments from police haters please - it's a job and someone has to do it. Remember this forum is just about the cars so keep it friendly please )

Hi. Just signed up to the forums but not a new Skoda owner. Been driving my 2016 vRS estate (diesel) since new and just today I’ve ordered a new vRS TSi 245 6G manual hatchback in meteor grey 😁 Delivery not until May I’m told ☹️ hope I can help here or at least find help when I need it. 👍🏼

Time to move to metric chaps 😂

Besides the rear vents everything checked out ok and hopefully get to pick her up on the weekend.

ah, i didn't realise ur from Oz too @elfensin 🙂 i'm based in the ACT. i was about to get those same Taiwan sourced side-skirts too, but i had my eyes set on the Rieger side skirts. how did u get urs so cheap though. when i looked at those ones, the seller on ebay was asking close to $1k for it shipped to Oz. i think the black lip in addition to ur side-skirts made it look even fatter. good thing u removed it. my Rieger ones make the car fat too, probably cause it protrudes outwards in the center bits, but i don't mind that.

Well it is not Rieger side skirt. Actually I got it from China, shipped to OZ by marine. Cost me about 150 bucks for the side skirt itself, 20 bucks for shipping fee, 300 bucks for painting. I paint it with red on top, and black on bottom. It was like this, sorry for the low quality img. I was loving the side skirt at the beginning. But lately I felt it was a little bit too low for my taste. If you check the first pic, the side skirt was much lower than front and rear bumper. It makes the car looks like a guy with big belly. So I simply cut the black part, it looks much better for my taste. Simply Clever. I also made a pair of removable black side skirts.