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**Update** The Tesla model 3 has gone. After it came back from a 3 week stay at Tesla for more repairs, I found that in fact they hadn't fixed all of them so I'd had enough. It had to go. I have an order in for an Enyaq but haven't yet had a chance to test drive it but my neighbour was kind enough to lend me this ID4 last weekend for a test. It was so much more refined than the Tesla, a very grown up car, whereas the model 3 is something of a one trick pony - it can go really fast in a drag race but in every other respect it is a bit sub par compared with other cars on the market. If the Enyaq is anywhere near as good (and all the reviews on line suggest it is better) then I am not going to be disappointed with my return to Skoda. Just a small matter of 5 weeks to wait now.

Bit more explanation of the stats of car reliability. What follows is very much simplified, before the 'proper' maths and stats people jump in.... Consider a car with, say, 5 components that will seriously upset you if they fail and might even stop the car working. Let's assume that each component has a probability of failure of 10% in a given year. Thus the probability that your car is fault-free in that year is 0.9 ^ 5, where the symbol ^ means 'raised to the power of', so 0.9 ^ 5 = 0.9 x 0.9 x 0.9 x 0.9 x 0.9 0.9 ^ 5 = 0.59, so that you have approx 60% chance that your car is fault free. The probability that all the components fail in that year is 0.1 ^ 5 ie 1 in 100,000. But, if the manufacturer churns out several hundreds of thousands of this car, it's pretty much guaranteed that someone will be unlucky and have every component fail in their car in that year. The same stats does of course apply to assembly, but that is largely automated and most faults (according to eg Which? surveys) are component problems.

Picked one up for £10 from my local scrapyard. Is it a straightforward fix? Thanks

The alarm siren has it,s own battery. This can eventually need replacing. Skoda sometimes show that as a 5th year Service item but obviously they can last twice that or more.

What a bunch of crooks.

Sunroof Sunroofs come in 2 varieties. 1 Leaking 2 Not leaking yet

Free PDF Skoda Repair service manuals - http://www.cardiagn.com/category/skoda-repair-service-manuals/ Thanks .

Quick few hits from google for 2013/14 Octavia scan: - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/8738/ - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/15643/ - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/5516/ - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/8855/ As you can see, the BCM coding is quite different in each case. The scans are all from Rosstech's site so you may want to consider supporting them by buying a genuine VCDS cable in future.

Cool, I see it now. Thanks for your help.

The tow bar electronics will need to disconnect the rear fog light when anything is attached to it, as well as disconnecting the rear parking sensors etc. A professionally fitted tow bar should comply with these requirements. But if your car was not fitted with the towing pack when built, you may also need to upgrade the radiator. The standard tow bar drops down and round from under the car so that you don't hit your shin on the hook walking behind the car. (From memory that used to be very painful!) No doubt some towing experts will be along soon with more guidance. Chris

Pretty sure the only difference is DAB radio: - 5Q0035864C has no DAB - 5Q0035874C does have DAB

Root, it's true that any survey has to be wary of selection bias in the cohort ("only those with a complaint fill in the survey" - that kind of belief). Certainly the Which? survey tries to minimise this and is upfront when they get insufficient data to make valid statistical conclusions. I've only had the Skoda for a year and have just taken part in the current Which? survey, and have done so every year for many, many years and been totally truthful about all of my cars. Interesting that of all the surveys I've seen, the 'usual suspects' top the ratings - Toyota/Lexus, Honda etc, and Land Rover at or near the bottom, with some variation in between amongst the different surveys. Of course the actual unbiased data - which we, the public, will never see because it's closely-guarded - is certainly easily available to the manufacturers. It's their warranty (and perhaps out-of-warranty) repair rate/cost. Any manufacturer will balance the desire to reduce this until the cost of making the vehicle becomes disproportionate. Don't think even the dealerships are allowed to see the totality of this data for the brand they sell, only what goes through their workshops.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but here goes. My CUNA engines VRS184 TDI has started producing a LOT of sludge. The car has previously had minimum maintenance (although it was every 18k miles) and known oil type (although it should have been Longlife 3FE 0W30 VW507 oil). I'm now running it on Super Diesel and it has recently had an oil and filter change. After less than 500 miles, the oil is BLACK and looks chunky and smells BAD. I suspect this is the result of the minimum maintenance and that all I am seeing is sludge from the valves and the EGR being processed out of the engine. It's also running lumpy and rich too. Here is a recent scan from ELM scanner from VAGDPF when the car is on idle.Vag_DPF_log.txt

Skoda dealer might have been using ODIS rather than popping map cards in it. Frigging some setting in the unit which also closed it off to you. I'd agree a firmware update might be the solution.

Here is a look at 60 model with base LED headlights & taillights with base LOFT interior.

Exactly my thoughts. I'm not letting them get away with using paying customers to act as guinea pigs in driving what is in effect a black box full of software which has not been properly developed.

Thank you so much this video is just what I needed . ATB Ken Ritchie

Hi When the engine cut out not really thinking I did try to start it and there wasn't any knocking or banging noises. Going to ring round tomorrow see if I can get someone to check it asap.

PM Sent.

Well, I don't even need to be in the same county as you to be 90% certain you've cracked either the gearbox casing of the engine sump.

This!! I actually fully serviced my wife’s car last Tuesday before she took it to Cornwall from Bristol, so I know it was fine. The day she came back she told me about the issue. Took it for a drive and felt it myself.... there were 3 days between me looking at those parts and the symptoms appearing. It can and sometime does happen that quickly.

I am interested just how cold cold has to be for those with this happening in Australia, the Scottish Borders or Northern England, or anyplace. I just get in cars with a DSG after defrosting them and select 'D' and go. That can be at temps below -10*oC, wet or dry clutch ones. The engines need to get the Coolant and Oil up to efficient temp but otherwise the car / van is up to 30-60mph without 'Hesitation, repetition or deviation'. Doh, wrong game show!

They have to go sometime, they can not be shot until they are shot. MOT testers might put something as an advisory but they can not fail stuff that is not a fail. People get upset at that.

Ok, I managed to reach the item with the assistance of a small child's small hands. Self contained, tuning box perhaps but not one I've seen before. Plug has catches on the one side to fit in a VAG socket.

overslept! so late start, and shorter route. hit some pr and 2nd best segment times, so at least i got that out of it. was a good blast though, no jacket needed just a base layer and hivis shirt. must test the stupid hr strap again later. its possible the new battery i put in it was already dying, have that pack of 2032 batts a few yrs...

You’ll need a scan, could be a faulty strut but they aren’t expensive used or third party.

ok, I got it , sort of android tv, sort of casting the image from the phone to the car display via usb, yet the unit has a cast version o something . Thank you.

If I'm understanding correctly, hydrodynamic pressure, which can be several hundred atmospheres, will centralise the shaft radially. The same does not apply axially, not least because you don't get thin film hydrodynamic effects on bearing ends. Disclaimer - Not an expert on turbos, but putting several different bits of stuff from different sources together.

thanks for your response, yes I was asked, but didn't think any the wiser. (vulnerable old lady) Total bill was £312.08 incl VAT £58 engine flush and £65 fuel treatment

had a blast a Cannock and hit a lot of the stuff I missed out last time (black sections) missed the first boardwalk as I was going too fast and didn't want to turn round. struggled with the skinny feature at let loose(pictured), ain't gonna lie .. this took me a good 4 goes to get it without stopping but happy I nailed the following rock garden after it. I won't post I time up as we stopped many times especially up cardiac hill (think the new guy found this particularly tough) and I didn't stop my watch each time.(doesn't auto pause) only did the dog as I think the monkey was beyond him(pictured deciding if to do monkey too) i'll be back there soon!!

May be already know of you. Just discovered it randomly:

You can fit a roof basket / tray to the bars and the bag goes on that. Picture from a members Project thread. You get bigger trays or baskets.

Welcome to the forum. ? How much was the full bill? ? Were you not asked if you wanted that. The Low Ash oil will be the VW504 00 / 507 00 that they had to use, and this was not at any extra expense. The Flush and treatment was them at it. They took the Michael. Recommended by the Manager, Boss or Dealer Principal as up-selling to help them earn money. This would be a Skoda Main Dealer Service @ 2 years and maybe also the Pollen Filter replaced. They might try to Up-sell a AC Service and say it is Recommended.

Thanks guys for your help have it sorted cheers!

Acquired at the beginning of April to replace the black SE, this is our new Monte Carlo. In Quartz Grey with the new 95 hp 1.0TSi engine. Really nice little car.

no need to butcher the door card. it can be removed tactfully and gracefully as can can the lock mech without smashing it deans guide is probably the best one done thus far on getting in there

Unfortunately the response from the Skoda dealer is what to expect these days but that certainly doesn't make it right. They simply want to avoid taking responsibility as it will cost either them or Skoda to fix the problem. And to charge over £1,000 to replace a clutch is just ludicrous. Shameful behaviour. You are wise to get an independent inspection as it will prove invaluable if you have to go down the legal route with this. Please let us know how you get on.

the best looking while easy to maintain Kodiaq is a white Sportline or RS (black accents contrast beautifully). go bolder than you think you can manage. i found Race Blue too vivid at first. in love with the colour now. unless you own a car wash, the only bad choice is black

My point is I don't like it and it is no longer able to be switched off.

not good idea, if car one day will go to trade in then official dealer may ask to return original part numbers of separate signals 3V0 949 101 Left 3V0 949 102 Right ELECTRICA INDIA 13.5V/0.95W

I think `eksa` is talking about `coasting` rather than `cylinder deactivation`. Mine does go into `2 cylinder` mode whilst in `D` but has to be in `Eco` mode in order to `coast`.

When I've finished with them.... not many get sold. I think Heinz bought most of them.

It's in a grey box right above the photo if you follow xman's link, and in the link itself there if you look carefully: 03C 198 229 C

I'm glad to finally join this community, here's my new family member. Skoda Fabia 1.0 TSI (Mk III) 999 ccm 95 HP DSG-7 transmission Rear-view camera Automatic A/C So far so good. After 18 years of driving and tens of different cars, this is my first non-manual transmission and I just love the feel The only thing that I will have to get used to is the consumption in the city (around 7l/100km in "normal" city traffic, almost 10l/100km in the morning traffic jam). My last car was a Clio 1.5 dCi (diesel) which rarely went over 5l/100km). Here are some pics as well:

Changing just the screen won't add sat nav, as already said the screen is JUST a screen to add sat nav you need to change the unit in the glovebox to an Amundsen - and check the compatibility of the screen with that new unit.

On a 2018 car, I think you have a MIB2.5 Bolero so the logical option would be a MIB2.5 Amundsen to keep your screen. The MIB2.5 Columbus would need a new larger screen. You will also need to deal with component protection, FeC/SWaP codes and coding the replacement unit. Have you checked the map coverage for Albania as I believe there is only partial coverage of that region. I would suggest contacting @pab567 and see what your options are.

Another while out in the bike at wast water by Wasdale.

After 3 years of faithful service I've moved on to a new phone. My Huawei p20 Pro has made way for a p30 pro and the optical zoom is impressive VID_20210425_184355.mp4

As this was happening on my 2016 here in Australia, I was looking at replacing the entire gear knob but decided to look at just the DSG VRS top part of the gear knob. I ordered it from Skoda Parts, based in the Czech Republic who were great to deal with. The cost of the part as 14.52 Euro and shipping was 22.3 Euro, via Fed Ex. It took 6 days from them sending it to arriving with me so very quick. The part number for anyone who wants it is 5E0 713 146 E. I was a little concerned at how difficult it would be to remove it but I have to say, I was wrong. It took about 30 seconds to replace it. Very easy - I just used a small trim removal tool, pulled in the gear knob button to expose the top (front most) surface of the gear knob 'cap' (this is the part I am replacing), this then just flicked up and off with a little more pressure,. The replacement just hinged from the rear ward side and clipped in place. My old one had two sections where the chrome had come off and sharp (ironically this is exactly what happened on my previous R36 gear knob). So, for the total of 36 Euro, I now have a gear knob that does not scratch and cut my finger and looks far better. For anyone with this issue, and out of warranty, it's very very easy to do... Brand new one is in the bag, the other two show the chipped parts, and the box the part came in.

I tried the 25cm cable but that meant the camera had to go on the offside of the mirror which was a little distracting. I’ve settled on the 30cm cable (which turned out to be 31cm fortunately) which allows the camera to go on the near side and is therefore hidden behind the mirror during driving, which I prefer. The site of the USB port must be set up for LHD really, as you could then use a really short cable and still have it behind the mirror. Pics show views from each seat.