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That's very low. Using the tragic demise of a young rider as an opportunity to spout off your sly anti-Hamilton propaganda. Shocking. Even beyond what I would expect from some on here.

Although my Octavia came with the Black Pack, for me it still had too much chrome for a modern car. In fact, any chrome on a modern motor I just do not like. Chrome only looks good on some classic motors. So over the last few months I have either taken the chrome badges off for good, or replaced them with colour matched and black ones. I have also taken the chrome exhaust tips off, rubbed the chrome dull and sprayed them gloss black. Today I have at last got rid of the last chrome badges, the centre wheel caps. Bought some off ebay, rubbed them down and sprayed them gloss black. Keeping the old original chrome and black centre caps, just in case I think I have gone too far and want to put them back on again. A mate of mine suggested painting the brake calipers black as well, but that I think, might actually be a step too far.

Is there any good advice? Yeah, post it in a readable format.

My concern, and the reason I didn't wait for the fix was that Skoda only ever mentioned the KPH/MPH issue. I had a feeling that because this was the legal issue, they were only concerned about this. When I spoke to them about up dates they never mentioned whether there was a fix for all the other glitches with the infotainment system mentioned. I hope they have sorted ALL of the issues to reward for all those that have waited. You all deserve it.

Might be worth adding a small guide or state any issues you’ve had along the way. Might help someone else who is looking to do it.

The 1.6 TDI only comes with one DSG and that is a DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch. Lots and lots of threads on them so really there will need to be a diagnosis carried out by someone with all the gear and not just ideas but the knowledge. How many miles has the car done?

I haven’t had to replace battery, everything seems fine now.

I repaired the 6 broken wires in the cable loom today and reassembled all parts removed to gain access. The car started and I drove it a short distance. The speedo now worked and all the warning light except one (airbag) had gone. I will investigate the airbag warning tomorrow. The loom repair was done without removing the dash. In fact the only item that was mandatory to remove on the interior side was the blower motor.

Hi fitted the water pump all the pulleys and the belt that was a sod to get on, figured out the timing turned the crank with a spanner no interference, made sure everything was clear, and went for it, it started first turn of the key and ran perfectly!!, what a relief actually brought me to tears. Could not get the bolt undone from the crank to change the oil seal, so put the engine mount back on took it to a local garage that had one of those hammer guns that undid it, so I will be changing the oil seal tomorrow and putting it back together, I know it means taking the belt off again but at least I know the engine is ok. Thanks to everyone that commented and gave advice. It's been quite a journey and an emotional one as well.

How to retrofit trailer assist on a Skoda Superb MY17 After a lot of research, You must have Park Assist (PLA 3.0) You must have a Tow Bar (Obviously) You need to either install or replace your RVC (Reversing Camera), not just for a High version, but a High version that supports trailer assist (As I found out to my cost of nearly £200), the standard L&K factory camera will not work. To replace the camera, you only change the boot opener button section that includes the camera and plug in the cables, the cables running to the back of the stereo are the same, took me less than 10 minutes to swap over the camera. I bought my camera from an eBayer in Germany who was recommended to me, I had a 5Q0 980 568 B camera with the 5Q0-980-556 label file with measurements for my specific vehicle, the camera I believe is from a VW Touran or similar, but the seller will upload what ever vehicle you ask. eBayer = https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/vwmodul_de?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 eBay item ref:- 273844642105 (5E5 / 5TA with trailer assistant) The camera does come with a cable set which is not needed, I will put it with my 1 week old camera to sell it on. My old camera was 3V0 827 566 N – Shows in VCDS as 5Q0 980 556 B To code using either VCDS / VCP / ODB ELEVEN (I used VCDS) 1) Open module 6C (Backup camera), change long coding Byte 10, tick Bit 3 (equipment_ARA_optical,installed) 2) Open module 10, login using security code 71679, change long coding Byte 3, tick Bit 3 (Trailer positioning assistant, 0 = not installed / 1 = installed) 3) Open module 5F – Go to Adaptions, change “ENG122229-ENG122332-Car_Function_List_BAP_Gen2-Trailer_Assistant_msg_bus_0x36” to “COMFORT BUS” NOTE: Please ignore other websites that ask for adaptions on menu_display_trailer_assistant menu_display_trailer_assistant_over_threshold_high Trailer_Assistant_0x36 Leave these 3 as not activated. Activating these 3 can cause problems with your RVC (Reversing camera) 4) Open module 17 – Change long coding Byte 12, Tick Bit 5 (Trailer positioning assistant,Yes) Clear all DTC's Then hook up your trailer, Engage reverse gear Press the park assist button, you can now control the trailer from the mirror adjust joystick, press it down to fix at straight back, Or press to the left / right and use the maxidot to tell the car where you want the trailer. To Stop trailer assist, either select drive / 1st gear or press the park assist button again. I hope this helps someone and saves them many hours of research of which cameras do / don't work etc. Enjoy

i love the vintage saddles on the bikes George i shall keep this in mind, gonna ring around a few other listed dealers for my short listed bikes and see what falls out. one i tried today only answers 930-1230 and the other was engaged 3 times i rang!

I don't know the situation you are in but people have tried to persuade me to sell my '95 MX-5 a few times for various reasons (kids / not used etc.) But no one has succeeded yet and they won't.

good luck alan, i will do the same with mine till i get a service in 4 months and i will ask skoda to check system.

I just tested with bonnet open and then closed and there is no difference. Both give a reading of 12.43v after the car hasn’t been running for nearly a week. It made me question the reading on Tuesday (12.3v) so I tried another multimeter and it gave 12.44v so well within tolerances. It’s not a permanent drain given the reading today so I either didn’t lock the car or didn’t give it a full 30min on Tuesday. Anyway, it seems much better than the ~12.2v I was getting prior to the full recharge and battery reset. Thanks for all the info and I will keep an eye on it.

You have a serious electrical/CANBus problem. Find an auto electrician, not a VAG main stealer.

I tested some while back and like you just ended up confusing myself more I have to check the system soon so I will do the back to back test like you did although I dont think that I have a spare working G65 sensor, its possible though. I will report back and if I have a conclusion I will write it down amongst my AC dossier graphs, notes etc otherwise I will forget once again.

Thanks. During my call with Skoda UK, I was encouraged by reference to the fix being for not only the KPH/MPH issue, but also things like ACC, road sign recognition, emergency braking and so on. I so want my car back, and working as it should!

Reading this forum there seems to be so much a bit iffy with this latest infotainment system it makes me wonder if it ever left development before going into full production

Only you will know when you have the smooth ride. On a Hatch i usually went for 33psi front and rears with light loads in summer with 205/40R 17's, 215/40R 17's or 205/45 R17, then if i wanted a bit more grip i might drop the front a couple of psi. Why not put in 35psi front and rear and front first drop the pressure, then try dropping the rear and go on until happy. The tyre will make a difference, so are you running or fitting XL's. (Stronger sidewalls) ?

Same here

A few from recent evening walks / days out....

nice...n+5, i doff my hat to you or should that be chapeau

OK, just a thought. I was thinking more of if you were taking a trip across anytime. Bikes are in demand and i am sitting with about 5 i no longer ride and and 4 Electrics i do.

id still have to get at least as far as cairnryan for a pick up... thats a long way for a bike 🤪

If you have adblue ensure you get the correct kit as the right hand foam insert is different. And be prepared for your bag hooks to become useless when the floor is raised.

I noticed that on mine too. Weird but seems to be consistent behaviour. Chris

How did the front speaker blow? Prodigy. Image attached!

Caffyns Tunbridge Wells (Skoda dealership) advertising on Ebay as Caffynscarparts Official Skoda Set of Spare Wheel fitted with 195/60 R16 tyre, Tool Kit, False Boot Floor and (presumably) the boxes to keep everything snug and rattle free. Parts 5L0071108B and 8P060102703C £260 No doubt, a Skoda dealer close to you can supply same.

@Kenny R Great info - so the alternator is shut down to take load off the engine, improving fuel consumption, once there is “enough” battery charge? And then when braking, the alternator is started up again to provide additional load, which will contribute to the engine braking effect slowing the car?

The Parking Lights on the roadside front and rear of the vehicle (& one reg plate light.) Is legal in the UK where you are required to have Parking Lights displayed. Side / Position Lights are not 'Parking Lights' for having a car at a roadside stationary where 'Parking Lights' are required. They can function as Parking Lights, and that will be when the ignition is off. Lots of cars can not have 'Sidelights' on if the keys are out and the car locked, but they can and do have 'Parking Lights' which can be on, this is all part of Construction & Use, & meeting EU / UK legislation etc. The RAC so then The Sun and others keep going on about it being illegal to park without having 'Sidelights on'. Then they go on about Low Energy Use etc etc and how they will not flatten a battery. Well just Front & Rear & Reg Plate lights on can have a Fabia Battery flat if on from Lighting Up time / Darkness until dawn / Day Light time.

Pretty sure 18" Gemini were standard on the FL vRS. There were a couple of special edition 245's which got a few extra's including 19" xtreme alloys as standard, namely the '245 edition' and 'challenge edition'. As for brakes, I think all 245's got the same: - 340x30 vented (PR-1LG) fronts - 310x22 vented (PR-1KW) rears Plenty of info in this thread:

... because the coolant is not being evaporated by the airflow as it's inside a sealed environment, it's the latent heat of vaporisation that causes the temperature drop, so no vaporisation = no cooling.

The micro hybrid 2 section is relevant in this link… https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/micro-hybrid-hybrid-vehicles-explained/

Can't say I ever tried locking myself in the car then trying to get out It feels like normal behaviour due to the deadlocks though. As John mentioned, double tapping the lock button within 2 seconds should prevent the deadlocks but you may need to pull the door handle twice to get out. It's all covered in the owners manual under 'safe securing', might be worth a read to compare with your cars behaviour.

Part number for the front vRS badge I ordered for my facelift is 5E0 853 736 C 9B9, hope that helps. Regarding folks questions on splitting it from back plate, see pictures. 4 ‘pins’ that align it on the plate, then Skoda’s crazy adhesive.

To my mind (electrician and electronics technician, studying to be an engineer) I really think you are going head first down the rabbit hole... 12.2v static on a car battery these days is fine, especially if it had some current draw since last charging/driving as you have described your testing. On a side note, I use the stop/start with the ac on and it does the stop/start as normal. Only time it doesn't act as per normal is when I have the stereo pumping, which I would fully expect with my set-up.

Thanks to e-Roottoot and TheUltraRunner. The 360 camera would be great but being in a RHD market, our changes will be largely driven by what the UK gets. We already have the false boot floor as standard. Hopefully, the infotainment issues will be fully sorted by then or Skoda will be Cleverly Simple in addressing customer care.

Good point - although I use "Rain X" on mine. Makes a huge difference.

Will have a look to see whether this is the same release as VV containing the dirty on Seat users. Accident or design.

Skoda Server http://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/HIGH12_P192_EU_202125.zip

mine is up an running within 20-30 secs after firing the car up. happy with that, as its ready to go before the car had dropped from its cold idle speed. sounds like u need to apply the latest OTA update.

Hmm, good point - I'm certainly no expert! I'm running a Samsung Galaxy S8 with Android 9 with version 6.4.611714 of AA Also a good point.... (as I said I'm no expert! lol) I wonder why so many people seem to be having different results.

I can confirm the park issue was just long coding For the module, my wiring was correct, Coding sorted it. Now just the heated wiring to run

You'll find a bunch of detail (see what I did there) in the Briskoda detailing forum. Unless you're going to store it unused in a hermetically sealed garage then personally I'd skip all the faff and just go with snowfoam + two bucket method using a woolskin mitt for the body and a separate one for the wheels. It's only going to get dirty again I also use a clay mitt (quicker than a clay bar) plus polish/wax twice a year with Autoglym/Meguiars. Aside from that I use Showroom Shine to top up the wax after washing. I use Autoglym something or other for a once a year interior dust/clean and Simoniz leather treatment for the seats (also once a year). It's too big a car to clean and wax every weekend My car is swirled and stone chipped to buggery with whiteworm in the alloys and that's after only 27k miles and me carefully cleaning it.

Greetings to all! I have an update!!! I literally changed it all. Distribution kit, oil pump and belt. Using Motul Oil 5w30 with vag 507 specs. if it was worth it? Not at all! Stay still. Don´t waste your money. The noise continues, but far less, and goes way much sooner. I checked the old oil pump and just by turning it, it´s very noisy, especially the vacuum part. The best option it´s to live with it. I have made peace with it. Please don´t make the same mistake, likei did. My car now have 54.600 Km. Regards

Latest Updated Speedcams - June, 2021. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( June, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams June, 2021.zip

1600 miles in and running lovely. Just need the infotainment sorting!

Just offering up the lightbar to check I have the correct length mounting straps. I need to strip the lightbar down to check it over and make some changes inside so that the POLICE signs luminate.

Personally I think plug in hybrids only make sense as company cars where they get low BIK %. They tend to be a lot more expensive than their normal ICE counterparts. You’ll only reap the rewards if you do a lot of miles and they’d have to be the right length journeys.

I don't bother anymore, there are so many speed camera sites around us it would beep every minute or so, there were three sites between home and my daughter's flat two miles away. Instead I set cruise to a couple of MPH below the old ACPO guidelines and relax . . . . . . not been caught since 2011. Sooner or later you will find a van/camera that isn't in the database or an unmarked car. Speeding regularly isn't worth the risk.