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Oohh....touche. The Scottish Borders is just fine although the roads are terrible in this part of the world. Your local VAG specialist can help you @KyleHa Make you find one that knows about how to properly service the front diff.

Just experienced an alert for an inspection on my Superb. Looking through the posts, I’m in the minority of owners as I have the Virtual Cockpit. So, for those in a similar situation who want to reach the menu to reset the service and inspection alerts, here’s the way I did it. This is a video from a Seat Virtual Cockpit and the method works on the Superb too. 🙂

Pretty sure it will still go up if you take the revs high enough.

You can get small USB-C flash drives like this MyMemory 128GB Dual USB-C & USB 3.1 Flash Drive - 200MB/s £20.99 - Free Delivery | MyMemory that will plug into a PC using one end to load your music onto it, then plug into the Karoq using the other end to play it back. They even fit under the sliding lid to the phonebox compartment.

Went to look at bikes for you daughter earlier this week... with her epilepsy etc. it needs to be something stable so thinking of a Hase Trigo Up with a couple of adaptations... Very nice bit of kit and nicely engineered! Can be retrofitted with a Shimano e-motor but means I'd probably need to invest in a trailer to transport it. They do a similar version that folds but it's nearly three times the price!

All cars have a unique 17 character identity code – their Vehicle Identification Number or VIN. For Karoqs this is displayed at the bottom lefthand corner of the windscreen, on a sticker at the base of the middle body pillar, and stamped into the righthand suspension turret under the bonnet. It takes the form: TMB LJ7 NU 7J5 012345 and can be decoded as follows: The first 3 characters are TMB for Škoda cars. The 4th character tells you the chassis type: J = left-hand drive FWD, K = right-hand drive FWD, L = left-hand drive 4x4 and M = right-hand drive 4x4. The 5th character tells you the engine: E = 2.0 TSI 190PS, G = 1.6 TDI 115PS, J = 2.0 TDI 150PS, M = 2.0 TDI 190 PS, P = 1.0 TSI 115PS, R = 1.5 TSI 150PS. (Anyone know the code for the 2.0 TDI 115PS engine or Russian 1.6 MPI engines?) The 6th character tells you how many airbags the car has: 2 = 2 front airbags, 4 = 2 front and 2 side airbags, 5 = 2 fronts + 2 sides + 1 knee airbag, 6 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads, 7 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag, 8 = 2 front airbags + 4 sides + 2 heads, 9 = 2 front bags + 4 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag. The 7th and 8th character tell you the vehicle model: NU = the Karoq (2017 on). The 9th character is a check digit to validate the code. The 10th character tells you the car's model year: J = MY2018 (ie manufactured between summer 2017 and summer 2018, K = MY2019 (ie manufactured between summer 2018 and summer 2019, L = MY2020 (ie manufactured between summer 2019 and summer 2020, M = MY2021 (ie manufactured between summer 2020 and summer 2021. The 11th character tells you where your car was built: 0 to 4 = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia; 5 = Kvasiny, Czechia; 7 or 8 = Vrchlabi, Czechia; B = Solomonovo, Ukraine; H = Nizhny Novgorod, Russia; J = Osnabruck, Germany; K = Kaluga, Russia; N = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia. Then finally the 12th to 17th numbers are the unique production number for that production line and year. If anyone has a character in their VIN not listed above, please give me the details so I can update this guide. Thanks Chris

He says to just message him via Facebook 👍 https://www.facebook.com/jason.simons.16

I'm not sure if he's still active on here but I'll drop him a WhatsApp with a screenshot and see if he can get in touch 👍

replaced it last night and all is well... group ride again today, another warm one and after Coffee stop as i was closer to home than the start point i deviated from the group

Did wonder about a carport or one of those pop-up garages. I had a cover for my Subaru back in the day but it was always garaged so the cover stayed dry.

Yes, I have bought an A5 front camera for retrofit, and also upgraded radar so that I can retrofit pACC, blind spot side assist, lane assist, TSR, etc. be very careful with the PR codes, the pr code descriptions that sound like heated are not - it's ridiculous. Tps is a good call in terms of pricing for the screen. Also had to buy a new rear view mirror and other bits to allow for the front camera retrofit

Part number is a non DAB MIB1, MIB2’s would have a 5Q0 part number. All Amundsen’s can take a camera, picture isn’t the best on the MIB1 though as screen is 240x400.

I fit these all the time, I’m based on Anglesey LL59 but I’m booked solid till August at the moment. Pm for details.

Try this one for starters:

Sorry and not wanting to start another debate or argument. But those in a vehicle with a DQ200 DSG should maybe go try, Car stopped, put across the manual and 1st gear and floor the throttle, and do not change gear, and some will change up to save the box. Everyone i have driven does. Actually with DQ200's i did this often for 'Sprint Starts' 1/4 miles etc. Not just with my cars but often with 'Demonstrators'. Never raced or rallied, just timed in different ways. In D, in S, in Manual and shifting & in Manual and forcing the car to shift. (Some best just done until 4th then knock the shifter to D and then let the box do the upshifts, it can be quicker than in S. Remember that Wet Clutch DSG's can behave different from Dry Clutch DSG's and also Wet or Dry can behave differently with different cars, engine and if Petrols or Diesels, and if Petrol ACT / COD's different again. PS Sprinting / Standing starts with a DQ200 are a bit better with a Manual Parking (hand) brake as you can hold it on that rather than the foot brakes which can cause a slight delay when trying to get off the line. As in Foot on brake and to accelerator or Left Foot on Brake and right on Accelerator. As for e-Brakes they spoil things altogether really. PPS, e-Brake, Autohold the greatest thing since sliced bread for normal driving, & when not wanting to be hooning, doing J turns etc

They will compound & polish out but make them do it or negotiate a good discount. Its good that they have let you know in advance. Definitely bird lime damage.

So from that are you extrapolating that the law (what law?) will be updated and that insurers will refuse to indemnise policyholders whose "driver assistance systems" may have been worked on but not caibrated (as if they would even know) or where the driver has switched a system off "which doesn't switch it off"?

I was thinking the same

Had a quick google over a morning coffee. Yes, I'd say the front diff and VAQ haldex oil are separate. When the dealer says the diff oil need replacing, they actually mean the VAQ haldex Few images for those not familiar with the VAQ. Nice to see the SSP still names it "Haldex coupling pump for 4WD V181" even though there is no 4x4 involved Anyway - the important notes are: - if you have a VAQ fitted, it will need the haldex fluid replacing periodically - It's around 3 years/30k miles but if you drive hard, do it earlier - Much like a rear haldex, the haldex pump should be removed and the strainer/mesh cleaned The last point is the important one as I expect many dealers won't do this as standard given what I've read of people rear haldex experiences

so i went out today to make up for the missed trip during the week. decided to go East from the cross today, and tackle Long Hill again. nice weather, sweaty though... not used to pedalling in actual heat! and i also pedalled up a lot more of it than on previous bits, had to push up one section thats just too steep and too much loose gravel and rock. and i now have the 6th fastest time on the segment from the valley floor between the cross and long holl to the top of long hill nice view from the top too. i went back across the top and over to the cross and dwon home this time.. wasnt getting misplaced in sheep fields, forestry blocks and people's gardens again... and i learned something else from it too.. if you look at my recent routes, through the woods and adding the back road hill climb my elevation is around 440-445m over 16/17km. up and down long hill today was also 440-445m but only 13.2km in the same (roughly) time period.

The OP asked about the VAQ electrically adjustable LSD (aka the trick diff). It uses the same haldex style clutch system to adjust how locked the front diff is as you'd traditionally find on VAG 4x4 models to do front/rear power transfer. Therefore it's subject to similar servicing requirements 👍 I'm not sure if it's got separate fluid for the diff and haldex clutch pack but I'd assume it would. I think when it comes to servicing the VAQ the terms get used interchangeably (rightly or wrongly)... I need to have my VAQ serviced soon so it's something I'll be looking in to in more detail.

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That looks more like etching from bird ****. I’d leave it with them to sort, as I’ve seen marks like that before that just won’t come out completely.

Look nice but will restrict flow by at least 50%.

Where I live its free draining chalk & goes down a very long way without hitting blue clay or bedrock, they have found WW1 tunnels after 90 years at down to 36 meters deep and there was only water in the lowest levels, I am amazed that my own cellar has never had any water rising even after the biggest storms ever. However I will be moving to a completely different area, as yet unknown so I will have to look carefully at the soil conditions or be very carefull with the construction. That photo looks real scary!

Yup you just move the gearstick to the left for manual mode and to the right for auto. You can do it on the move

24-229920 will be the correct b8 one for solid rear suspension, go to the original bilstein site to get the right ones for your car. http://web1.carparts-cat.com/default.aspx?34=0,100011,100121&240=0&32=58767&230=29&1271=48&1272=772250fa-c189-4129-b61c-f0ff58ace9f0&1273=1&10=FFFC0AA82165484DAAFE0CA91C6E95EA018001&14=1&12=130

Bilstein B8 24-229937 is for multilink rear suspension. I doubt the 150HP has multilink rear suspension. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/7522727 Bilstein B8 is for lowered/sports suspension. Bilstein B6 is for standard ride height suspension. Both Bilstein B6 and B8 are high performance dampers, ie. expensive. The more regular Bilstein B4 shock absorbers are about half the price of Bilstein B6 and B8 shock absorbers, and adequate for most people.

Surely paint is hard if it chips? A bar of chocolate won’t chip and is soft but I sheet of glass is hard and will…

My 2c for the cabin filter is that it really depends on the country and area you live. I live in а really dusty city and even if you get the most expensive cabin filters like Mann FP or Mahle Caremetix, you still need to change them no more than 8, maximum 10 months. They can last an year, but you start to smell the diesel exhaust from the old bus or truck in front of you Here is an example of a cabin filter which needed replacement after less than 9500 miles: https://www.drive2.com/l/502761588478967927/ Odors from outside, foggy windows and blocked vents are all indications of a cabin filter for replacement.

And here she is 😀 Ordered March 16 delivered June 11. Not bad.

At the rear of the console, in the cup holder, remove the plastic/rubber cover and you may well see a screw you need to loosen the console.

In other Skodas the heated rear window element is also used as the DAB aerial. So the better reception could be because there is a bad connection between the heated rear window element and the radio - or because the aerial is higher up when the boot is open?

Everything is accessible once the screen is in pal! If you need any help on the wiring then let me know! I’ll blast you the wiring diagrams over! FYI the earth connection is above the interior light at the front of the roof liner and the two connectors for the positive side of the screen are under the scuttle panel, perfectly accessible if your happy taking the scuttle back off once the screen is fitted!

Cycled up to the top of Lyme and Wood pits last night to see the sunset. Shame it clouded over though The descent was the best part!

👋 I have! Have had it on for the past 3 years, having 'accidentally' bought the non-resonated version first and realising my mistake pretty early on 😅 100% it makes a significant improvement to the sound - although mine is turbo-back, so I got the 3" downpipe and sports cat. - which is obviously less restrictive, and so perhaps noisier. So depends on whether you're looking to go turbo-back, or cat-back as to the 'depth' of sound. But I was at a small Brisky meet where one of the chaps had a cat-back and the noise difference was minimal, and still definitely louder than OEM. I've not got any audio equipment that'll really do the sound justice; there are a few vids on YouTube which are perhaps better than what I could achieve anyway. It burbles on overrun (but not pops / bangs unless the engine's mapped that way), and makes a lovely deep note on cold start up. Generally, it is a lot less restrictive and 'sounds like it should do'. Noise / Vibration / Harshness will increase (naturally), but with the non-res setup it's definitely within acceptable levels. As the Octy III has minimal sound dampening, you'll hear it more in the cabin - but it's not a drone (like it was with the non-resonated setup!). When i very occasionally ferry people around in the back, they do note that it's a fair bit louder than a standard car - but when you've got a cavernous boot space in the hatch (like ours), let alone the estate, that's perhaps the reason. But it's definitely manageable. I rate Scorpion very very highly. I called them up to ask all sorts of questions before I bought the exhaust too, and they the customer service guys were really passionate, knowledgeable and helpful in helping me select what I wanted. Including when I said I'd made a mistake and "Could I please have the resonator back...?" after a long round trip to Birmingham and back in a day, where I basically went deaf 😁

New to me ... Washed, clay bar, then polished ..

It cost me £650 all in. That repair of the dents along with painting the rear door and rear wing. They’ve done a great job from my point of view - it’s an area with a lot of angles and lines which isn’t easy to repair, I’d imagine.

New to me, went to buy my second Karoq but this was in the show room and couldn’t resist even the wife was impressed and before my coffee was drunk I had bought it

Just a late evening wash last night after the heat of the day had settled down. Off down to Devon for the week soon, so always nice to have a clean car for the trip.

I've got my car booked in to have the glove box replaced under warranty from my local evans halshaw (bought the car from a different EH dealership) took abit of persuading as they tried fixing it themselves but eventually agreed to replace it. Like you say its not acceptable to have to slam it or go round the passenger side to shut it. Once they accept that then they should agree to fix it! Good luck!

New air intake and carbon fibre engine cover fitted. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ms5ac0ykxpzudeu/received_153013573519592.jpeg?dl=0

My general thoughts on the subject of servicing my Skoda superb 2011 till 2019 as a taxi driver i bought this car brand new, serviced it as follows: every 10,000 miles air filter, oil filter, fuel filter, pollen filter and oil.. evry 85,000 miles cam shaft belt replaced, water pump every second camshaft belt, the results speak for themselves, car at 0 miles total mileage on car when i replaced it, it was at 433,000 miles with the same engine ,gearbox, Turbo, exhaust, glow plugs since the day i drove it out the dealers, due to the regional council the taxi cant be more than ten years old, hence the reason for replacement, new car is Skoda Super 3 , happy motoring.

Still love the colour its a coincidence your in Devon as it reminds me of a certain tinned custard from those parts! 😛

Decent wash and coat of Autoglym SRP using a dual action polisher. Not neccessarily better but less arm ache and better coverage.

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Agreed. Yes, you can drive it as a manual, but it feel counter-intiative. In D/S mode, move the gear handle to the left. You can then press UP for going up a gear or DOWN for going down a gear which feels odd when you have driven a manual car. Car will still step down gears, so it doesn't stall, but not go up gears by itself in manual.