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I finally got around to using the autoglym ceramic HD I've had in the garage for a year! I'm fairly impressed as applied, let's see how long it lasts.

More air ... ? Hold on ... Your prayers have been answered for £68 ...... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Electric-Turbocharger-Generator-SC006-2j1258/dp/B08LDBP7SJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Electric+Turbo+Charger&qid=1624080002&quartzVehicle=29-405&replacementKeywords=electric+turbo&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySEw3UTFZUDZVWjZPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjM4MDYxRUgxTE5WNExGUDhMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MDMwMTUxWllUWDA0QUFGQ01KJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== What a great piece of equipment and the SDi has the battery and charging system to power this revolutionary piece of automotive technology. Combined with that piggy back ECU mod you might gain 2bhp ..... But that's more than highly unlikely. In other words do what Ken and Sep advise ... Save your money ...!

I picked mine up in Huddersfield this morning. They have a test drive model available

Heres my project in the making, just purchased these 2 to make a Fabia 4x4 will post pics as i go not going to be a quick project but the plan is a stripped out Fabia with TT running gear. Already stripped the Skoda Audi next and then the cutting begins

Bettablast are superb mate, had a few wheels done here in the past and they were outstanding. http://www.bettablast.co.uk

I have this and in theory you wave your foot under bumper to open boot and same again to close. Very iffy and Often does nothing despite silly looking foot waving!! Easier to use the centre button on remote press and hold to open when closed and vice versa to close. Alternatively use rubber sensor to touch above number plate to open and button under hatch to close. There is also a button on the driver door to open or close the hatch. You don’t move the hatch by hand at all. The foot waving option was already on our car bought from the showroom but seems to be a waste of money as works easily without it.

Surprised to learn you need to code them in! I'll just mix the screenwash slightly stronger in winter I think

I can relate to what you're saying!

I've had my BCM disconnected for 3 years (except the days it's been in for a service), mainly to defeat start/stop but also because it stops the battery from fully charging. It's only necessary to disconnect the BCM sensor lead from the battery negative terminal and tuck it away.

I think the ability to edit the post times out after a while, as per most forums. you will see "Edit" there for a while after you post.....

another tough one, especially after the Coffee stop...uphill for a loooong way with no warm up after 30 mins sitting around!

Has anyone actually done this on a Fab III? I swapped the original EFB out for an AGM on ours and had the local VW specialist plug in to update it. Got told there was nothing to change and not charged for the 20 mins or so messing with it. Its been flawless for the last 8 months...

Thankyou

Haven’t noticed it mate but I’m out tomorrow in the car so will listen

Yes, with VCDS the "fleece" option is the one to go for, some other scan tools like Carista only seem to offer "AGM" - when and if my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI needs a new battery I'll be able to check out by changing to "AGM" from "EFB" what that equates when reading the settings using VCDS. Unfortunately, I seem to have misread the probably urgent need for me to set the wheels in motion concerning that Polo's EFB battery, while taking the worst scenario situation, I checked up on Tayna battery site and discovered that the slightly bigger AGM battery was cheaper than the "same size" one, so I ordered in a new battery plate and battery insulator - and now as that Polo approaches its 6th birthday in mid August, the battery heath is still "very good"! The way you re-code these batteries in more modern cars is very easy, for my good old 2011 Audi S4, the setup was a bit different, both VW Group and BMW seemed to have a "wonderful" way of doing things back in the early days of "car needs battery coding" - they used the official part number, that system was later drummed out by the aftermarket trade as it was far too restrictive, so DIYer owners like me have had to do a bit of leg work making sure that we know the VW Group P/N of many AGM batteries so that we can help out friends by replacing their either smaller AGM batteries or same size EFB batteries with AGM versions! Thank goodness that way of doing things was forced to change, still it passes the time and keeps the brain working for someone that has become retired!

I'm on shift Monday, I'll give our workshop in Liverpool a call , see if they've got the details.

Could you possibly find the makers name Cheapas?

Many thanks for your reply I should have looked harder..car is parked at a different address but will take a look when car back with me.cheers

At work they've recently had 4 commercial pits installed. Never seen these before , the company basically dug holes and then dropped in plastic pits in the holes. The plastic pits looked like glorified hot tubs. They've all got sliding beams on to jack axles up. Presume this negates any damp problems. Maybe they do car ones as well ?

Hi Warrior, thanks. If I could borrow the equipment I could do it myself - but I don't see that happening. I've watched the videos so now I'm an expert! I've also seen on here where the AGM setting is to be fleece rather than AGM spiral (IIRC). In the past I've had the simplest jobs balls'd-up and not always been told about it or had it covered up or bodged to be discovered later when something else has gone wrong, so standing outside near someone from Halfords who's perhaps more open than a can't be told or bothered mechanic or technician might be best if it can be arranged. I don't know any auto-electricians so have no idea who can be reliable and trusted and I've yet to ask around but will if required. My wife has asked her boss to ask her husband but I'm not sure how well that'll work out as I've not heard back yet.

There is a map of VCDS owners. Unfortunately no-one in Northampton has signed up but MK, Bedford and Kettering all have people who may or may not wish to help. A 5 minute job. https://tinyurl.com/yn6mmtyk

Depending on which compressor is fitted the nut holds the pulley on can come loose and stops the aircon working, it happened to ours and an air gun retightening sorted it out. Also there can be issues with the shear plate between the pulley and compressor body. https://www.instructables.com/VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-Air-Conditioning-Compressor-Pum/

Thanks again. Just boxed it all up again , but before that pulled the block connector apart to the fan and ran pos and neg lead off battery to it . High speed fine but no low speed. Had a look and doesn't look too tricky to maybe extract the fan itself without the cradle. Next time off I'll look into getting pressure checked, Halfords are doing some sort of free check. As an aside bought this from Aldi a while back, £20, right handy for undoing screws one handed on belly pan.

Hi Nat, welcome to the forum, phone Halfords and ask the manager if they will code your new, customer-supplied battery. Charge will probably be reasonable as a pretty quick job. Otherwise try a local auto electrician. All that needs to be coded is new battery serial number (to tell charging system to ignore any previous defects recorded) Battery type change (EFB to AGM) and Amp-hour rating (if different)

I know exactly where you're coming from. I often reminisce about how much simpler it all was back when I started out motoring. I did most of my servicing and have rebuilt several A series engines. I've been a big enthusiast about many of the modern improvements such as power steering and power brakes with all the handling, safety and economy improvements. But all this electronic jiggery pokery is far too much. Now if you get a fault, if it doesn't show up on the diagnostic system, most garages are clueless what to do. When a friend and I drove an ancient Reliant Kitten estate on the Mongol Rally, it was a pleasure to find that once we had left 'modern' Europe and drove into Ukraine and Russia, though the roads were ghastly, every little village had its little garage/workshop setup and they really were traditional mechanics. We had a generator burn out: no problem. A guy took it off, stripped it and rewound it in less than three hours. When two wheel studs broke, they removed a good stud, jumped onto an old scooter and disappeared for a couple of hours, coming back with two newly machine replacements! Here they'd right off your 5-year old car for a broken stud!

Try Halfords. You can book and pay online selecting a day and time that suits you. When they did my battery, the were prompt at starting the work (they had the new battery ready waiting) and it took 15 mins to replace the battery and plug in the programmer to change the codes. A little more expensive than buying online, but the convenience is worth the extra when you're old and grumpy like me.

I guess this is a manual gearbox? It sounds like a clutch issue. As you go up in ratios, the worn or warped clutch judders less because the ratios are much higher. At 46k, I guess the previous owner used the clutch as a foot rest! Take it back to the garage and ask for it to be repaired or reject the car. If you truly are terrible at changing gears, get a Fabia with a DSG automatic. You'll love it so much, you'll never use a manual again.

How do I edit/delete posts? Can’t see any way of doing this or is it because I haven’t posted enough to the forum yet?

Dirty already due to ****ty weather yesterday on collection. So far, really like it - pleasantly surprised 😀😀

So many visits in such a short time frame but If I recall correctly this issue was the only one where I didn't need to leave it with them overnight and I waited about an hour and a half for the reload.

Disconnect the three plugs on the BCM and see if anything changes with the voltage to the door controllers. You should perform an autoscan while it's disconnected too. I'd be very surprised if the BCM was causing your issues though as it's not in the power path for the door controllers.

I did the same on my 1.4 Octavia 3, and also got a Skoda bonnet badge to fit on the cover as I didn't like the VW badge being visible when I opened the bonnet.

I've had this and I'm sorry to say but it was a dealer visit to fix. They had to reload some software. In my case it worked fine initially but they'd left the transport blocks in the suspension on delivery. When it went in to have the transport blocks removed they said that it had missed three software campaigns that should have been loaded during its PDI. I'd only just got back home from the dealers when I realised that I could no longer select cruise control exactly like your video shows. I could set the other menu items, just not cruise. Back yet again to the dealers to reload whatever software it needed.

You need a proper diagnostics carrying out. It could be one of several issues. There's a fairly common problem where the accumulator splits causing a loss of pressure and the mechatronics not being able to engage gears or operate the clutches anymore. This is a pretty easy fix and there a kit available with new seals, accumulator and filter etc. It could also be that the clutches are shot. Or maybe the box has leaked into the mechatronics or vice versa. Or worst case is the electronics have burnt out and the mechatronics needs replacing.

Purely cost saving, even when not base model.

Perhaps it was whatever was to hand was fitted 🤔

Hi Noli, very likely a Golf 8 version of the same size engine will fit. I got a Golf 7 engine cover for my 1.4 TSI, which also came from the factory without one. Personally I think the engine bay looks more finished with one fitted. Try the 'Bay.

I see your point. It's possible people got that kind of impression. And yes, sometimes no information is better than misleading one. This certainly wasn't my intention. I apologize to all the people who thought like that.

It's obviously a wiring problem and mechanics are TERRIBLE at electrics, it needs to be looked at by an auto electrician.

Interesting that yours is going in for 'kangerooing'. Mine had that and the dealership refused to accept that it did it because it wasn't being logged on the car computer. When I asked them if they had actually driven it, they hadn't! I now have the mk 3.5 facelift with the manual 1.5 and it has the kangerooing as well (only a little and certainly tolerable). I also have two people that I work with, they have it too. I hope they sort it with you. If they do, please could you ask them what they did, because I am having no luck! Thanks

It's glued, clipped AND screwed in......makes no sense how it can become "loose". Strange U have this scenario.

Does the 150 not have a smaller turbo and different injectors to the 190? Also thought I saw a comment about the 190 being withdrawn as a Manual because gearboxes were failing, presumably from the extra torque and power over the 150? My (2017) 150 is also not adblue, was this introduced at a later date?

Yes, take the tank out (5 min job) and then you can be as rough as you like with needle nose pliers butchering the bag until you get it. Give it a rinse under the tap if the bag splits before re-fitting the tank. I wouldn't risk fishing it out in situ in case you split it. It wouldn't take much of the granules to block a heater matrix I wouldn't have thought.

I already have them at home, only took 4 days to ship from Germany to Barcelona. Due to "reasons" I won't be able to fit them until mid July... can't wait!

Project 4x4 fabia is coming along, bumpers and wings not in final position just positioned for effect

Good news (aside from the Superb bit) if the McLaren was being driven 'antisocially'... there's a guy with a Porsche who lives somewhere round us and drives like a complete tit... flat out everywhere in a residential areas with kids (you can tell as he has the exhaust valves open and rev-matching on so you can hear him from a long way off). I've seen him blat past our house at stupid speeds but managed to get his plate yesterday (private) and am wondering whether to report him via 101 so someone can 'have a word'...

This thread reminds me of my Need For Speed Underground days

Here's mine on the day I picked it up (last Monday), with the car it replaced in the background. The observant among you might be able to tell what colour I like...

What is important is power at points across the useable rev range rather than torque. A plot of how much horsepower is available at 20%, 30% thru to 100% of the useable revs what is the area beneath the curve for the gear change points between each gear. VW seem to have got something quite weak with the 1.5 TSI evo, a turbo petrol should generally be about 5% quicker than a diesel with the same HP due to less weight of the vehicle and less inertial mass of the engine components which have to be spun up to speed. 1.5 TSI evo seems a bit of a weak offering in the VW stable and is surpassed by engines like the Renault/Mercedes 1.3 TCE which produces more power ie over 160 hp and as much torque but is better on fuel. @shyVRS245 Here is an engine with 7 M nm of torque and over 100,000 hp, it does 20 mph in the vehicle it is fitted in to. It is power/weight and many other factors that count to fast acceleration. Built in Finland, the RT-flex96C's fourteen cylinders can generate 107,389HP with more than 7,000,000Nm of torque — that's enough to power an entire suburban town. The engine weighs 2,300 tons and stands 44-feet tall and 90-feet long – more than a four-story building.

Anything’s possible with an angle grinder 👍🏻 this is my brothers Firenza full Impreza running gear 👍🏻👍🏻