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If there were Briskoda awards for procrastination and lengths of projects I'd like to think I'd be in with a shout? Anyhow (insert normal excuses here.....) I'm still doing bits and bobs with the car. My not so secret plan with the interior was based around a custom trimmed Cobra Suzuka GT racing seat for the drivers seat only, but trimmed in the OE Fabia vRS material. To cut a long story short I've been dicked about by the trimmer something rotten so that plan has been shelved for now. However, this does mean that i could do some work on the original drivers seat. Now bear in mind the car is 15 yrs old, had 4 owners and has done 108k miles, the standard drivers seat had held up pretty well. There were no holes, burns or tears, and coupled with the fact that the original owner specified factory fit heated seats and side airbags, meant they are worth looking after. I could feel the metal rod from inside the bolster foam under the material so it would have only been a matter of time before it would have worn through the cloth and ruined the base material, and i felt this when i bought the car 7 years ago. For once i thought ahead and in 2015 I purchased a new seat foam base from TPS, and it's been stored in the loft ever since ( and been through two house moves!) The seat foam bases are now no longer available so I dropped lucky at the time in getting one. Using the excellent guides on here i stripped the base material from the foam, cut the hog rings off and gently eased the heated pad off as well. Quite surprising how bad the foam was when uncovered... The new foam was then offered up I gently glued the heated pad back in place at the front and back edge and then set about the tricky task of securing the fabric back over the now very firm foam with the hog rings and hog ring pliers. There is certainly a knack to doing it but once I had worked that out it went ok. I secured the seat fabric back round the edges of the seat frame and built the seat back up using new plastics on the bases, again sourced recently from TPS. The finished construction of the seat base is now complete and the original fabric is now stretched tightly over the firm foam base, exactly how the seats were new. Please be aware that the seat itself is now due a deep wet valet, where all of the dirty marks will be removed, this is just to show you how the base looks with new foam :-) I'm currently repainting the seat runners so when they are refitted and the seat has been deep cleaned I'll present the finished article.

Hi George. We've tried the Pashley style ones previously on the Monsal Trail and she's found them too unstable, top heavy and easy to fall off, especially with a normal saddle. The advantage with the recumbents is they have a much lower centre of gravity so are inherently more stable and more difficult to overturn. Also, given they have a proper 'chair' type seat she can have a harness to hold her onto the seat and stop her and the bike parting company. It was a good suggestion though all the same. In terms of the side by side bottom picture we've also considered those and the occpational therapist has suggested trying them but figured a trike would give her a bit more feeling of independence, although one of us will always need to be cycling alongside just in case...

In my experience it should be fine as long as it reacted and dried. Years ago I did exactly as you on a very old car and never got around to putting any paint on it in any way. I didn't see any rust whilst I still had the car. If you want to be sure lightly abrade the surface, then reapply and then prime as per the manufacturers instruction.

We've got a couple of sdis in the the family. Dad has a MK1 fabia and I have a MK2 caddy. They can move alright when they want to, just have to use a bit of driver ability to stay on the power. The best thing you can do for them is get the cambelt changed and timed up well if it's not had one recently. They can stretch older or cheaper belts, which results in a lot of power loss. It's never going to be fast, so just enjoy it for what it is. I probably have more fun driving my 68?hp caddy than my vrs that's got about 100hp more.

If you just want "exciting", sell the Skoda, learn to ride, and buy a motorcycle.

Really pleased for you @Nosnehm . I still have the hire Kuga I was given by Skoda in early April and it’s been very good (apart from what appears to be a parking brake failure resulting in it rolling into my garage wall this week….ouch). Will take possession of a Ford Focus Active X Estate tomorrow and dearly hope for a return to software glitch free motoring.

My Amundsen sat nav/radio/information centre recently failed, just repeatedly turning on and off every few seconds. I posted a query here and @pab567 suggested some ideas about repairing it. He explained how to remove the unit and send it to him in Poland. I did so and was very pleased that he was able to repair it, at a reasonable price, and sort out the customs forms needed when sending from the UK. I wish to publicly thank @pab567 and recommend his work, which saved me a great deal of money had I gone to my main dealer.

I have a 2009 1.9 TDI, same BXE engine but in the facelift body. Overall it's been very reliable. The only "big" job it needed was when the DMF gave out at around 40k miles but other than that it's been great. Like you say, no DPF and I find that it still gets better fuel economy than modern diesels do.

Get lazy all those Ctrl+'s 😍... Will use paint next time 🤣. De... dar (I do date back to CP/M you know and ICL George 3 operating system, IBM 360, PDP8s... they don't make them like they use too ;)... know a few replication punch card tricks that the youngsters don't know, very handy these days)

Hi Jim. As I understand it from your posts you are generally pleased with the car and unless I have missed something this is the first significant issue you have encountered - the failure of your vehicle to save favourites. So I am intrigued by how quickly you seem to have moved to requests to repair or replace etc. I also have several faults which Skoda (here in Australia) have not been able to rectify in the three weeks I have had the car and I am wondering whether to give them a similar ultimatum. So far I have preferred to keep it friendly rather than businesslike. The details are in my topic: In neither your case nor mine do the faults seem to be a serious safety issue or mechanical failure, although mine encourage me to take my eyes off the road which reduces safety. But, like you, I worry about the likelihood of further software issues down the track, including as unexpected side-effects of a normal update. Especially when I read reports on this forum of more serious issues.

Went to look at bikes for you daughter earlier this week... with her epilepsy etc. it needs to be something stable so thinking of a Hase Trigo Up with a couple of adaptations... Very nice bit of kit and nicely engineered! Can be retrofitted with a Shimano e-motor but means I'd probably need to invest in a trailer to transport it. They do a similar version that folds but it's nearly three times the price!

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202106123758112 If you're looking for an L&K, be aware this one is yet another example that seems to have a leaking roof. Surface rust covering steering column, rust on metal structure behind the fuse access panel on the right of the dash, etc. I love L&Ks, particularly because of how the cabin feels with the glass roof, but at this point, considering Skoda's attitude to the problem, they're just too risky sadly. It pains me to say this as I was wanting another one.

DQ200 DSG's 2009-2012 (late Summer) were part of the World Wide Recall which was just a Service Campaign in Europe started early 2014 and the Synthetic Oil was changed to Mineral and a software update was done. '34F7' Late 2012 DQ200's were not part of any Campaign as they should have been turned out with Mineral Oil & the Software Update. Sadly they have been going wrong in a good few cases. 2013-2015 were part of a Service Campaign started in 2017 on some to do a Software Update, not all were flagged as needing that. Another co-ck/up from VW group. '34H5'.

To Ken and my fellow ebiker, the answer is the power of the internet. I copied a comment from an ODB2 codes site https://www.obd-codes.com/p0301 Beware the American internet experts who look knowledgeable.

Also depending on year the box will default to normal on start up (sometimes eco if selected, depends on firmware).

You mean that you were side by side, both at the same speed, same gear, and floored it at the same time and you could not lose him?? Because anything different than what I described is an invalid comparison of no use... I bet if you repeat it as I describe you will see yourself "detaching" slowly but steadily. 40bhp and around as much more torque or thereabouts is not enough to offset the advantage of starting earlier or having more favorable conditions at these levels as some people might think. I have seen 380bhp cars not able to catch up with 310bhp ones when the latter ones started earlier or were already making a higher speed, at least not before reaching 180+ km/h, it's not that easy. Even less so at the sub 200 bhp levels you describe.

I've done it from the 12v socket in the boot regularly and the front lighter socket a couple of times. No idea what your charger (Battery) would do, but it works with a 7A ctek. I'd be surprised how well the 12v battery would do to charge, only because the chargers all do it at around 14v.

Thanks @Squible - good to hear you've had trouble-free motoring. I'd imagine there's a good chance the DMF could well have been replaced on this one at 122k.....

I've removed all of the other bluetooth devices from my phone.

Pedal Assisted Buggies, Karts & Bikes for disable riders or passengers for hire at Girvan Sea Front South Ayrshire Scotland.

As you said, one file 2 folders

https://www.motor1.com/news/515419/vw-id4-gtx-top-speed/

Thanks Tell and MartiniB. My card is a SanDisk. I will try reformatting again and see what happens.

Not sure where you are based Malakim, but I ordered mine in the UK in mid march and picked it up last week.

why waited that long when links were known two months ago? +1

I should hope so

you use a 17mm spanner on the top tensioner and push/pull cant remember which it will only move one way and it and it will allow you to remove the belt

Come to think of it, I don't think I've ever actually specified a car colour before. I always shop around for the best lease or purchase deal which tends to mean a pre-orderd pre-specced vehicle, so you have to take it or leave it. Colourblind people must find car shopping easy, lol.

Understand where you are coming from, however cant you just take the misses our for the day, drop the car off, enjoy the day out with out moaning or will that cost you money?

After 9 month of living hell the dealer is taking the car back. Had all fault included faulty lane- and brake assistant that almost crashed the car several times. This is my Skoda number 5, never had any major issues before. My car got all updates, but things just got more and more horrible. Wish all of you luck, you will need it.

My belt failed on Saturday. Car was new Jan 18 and has only covered 118k miles. Would have been 165k if COVID had arrived. Regular service by Fred Rees Skoda Dealer. When I rang them, they quoted 5 years when they change belt and it does not go on mileage. As my wife has the same car but estate with DSG who only covers around 10k a year, my question was surely it must be dependent on mileage with the extra wear and tear. Just said it’s nothing to do with the miles driven. Find that totally bizarre

There are lots of reasons folk may wish to disable certain features on a vehicle, I don't really think it is productive to simply say don't order one that has feature X if you don't want it. I have a Superb on order that features keyless entry as a standard feature on the car, and I too want the option of doing a permanent disable at times. Me and the missus go camping a lot, and our security solution for the eternal 'Where to store the car keys?' question (all other valuables stay locked in the car overnight) is that there is a particular part of the tent where we can hang the keys so they are not possible to get to without entering the tent itself or climbing right on top of it (It's a large tent and that would be impossible without falling into/collapsing the entire thing). This is a serious thing, as I have been on campsites where a stanley knife has been used to silently slice open a little gap in the side of a tent to gain access to valuables. So, in this scenario my keys could potentially be moving when we are turning in sleep, if it is a windy night etc. The car is usually literally almost right against the tent, so it is reasonable to assume that keyless entry will very likely work due to the close proximity. I personally will want the reassurance of disabling the system altogether while I am away on holiday. I don't want to muck around checking I have temporarily disabled the feature every single time I come and go from the car for something, come and go for my evening shower, come and go to put something back in the car before bed, come and go to do that before bedding down for the night, etc etc etc. Far far far easier, stress free, and risk-free to simply disable the feature permanently for the times I do not wish it to be active.

Are you looking to fit a dashcam or a reversing camera?

It is - once you release the glove box lid!

Ultimately the question is "Why buy one with it?" The very idea of having it is for the convenience of it. If you're not going to use the functionality of it, then don't order it and save some cash.

With the torque from the TDi, you should have no issues Its a theory I have been testing throughout lockdown.... results so far are inconclusive, must try harder!

Or worse still in that gap between the windscreen and the dash!

I used to get this in my Karoq if I had the key in my pocket and is probably why they provided a slot in the centre console for the key to sit in ,this had nothing to do with the back up position but it started every time the key was there and hit and miss if in my trouser pocket For reference the battery has nothing to do with locating the key and allowing it to start its purely there to activate the locks you can remove the battery and the car will start

Superbs with 18 or 19 inch wheels don't float over potholes even with DCC. They always crash badly. They will remind you loudly where the joints in the road are too. Floaty and wallowy is standard on Superbs. The DCC 3 basic settings just change bounciness and harshness in inverse proportion. And only by a little bit. Wished I didn't spend so much on DCC. Especially when I read on Briskoda increasingly about DCC shockers failing and how much they cost to replace.

I did not drain the tank, nor remove anything. All I did was take the lid off the expansion tank and stuck fingers in. It takes a while, but don’t give up. It’s really worth it. I had so much anxiety over this issue before taking the bag out, thinking it could split at any time; and now sleep much better at night.

You won't get more airflow, the stock system is already more than adequate, even for a modified engine. As is so often the case with kits like these, they move the air intake into the hot engine bay where it will pull in hot air and reduce power. You can rationalise all you want, but all you'll end up with is less power and a hole in your wallet.

Dog approves. Chrome grille surround was the first to go, hate chrome so black it is. Had to leave the lights in as they've chopped the grille to fit them, new badges ordered, stereo fascia and wiring ordered so I can fit my pioneer double din too

Yes I was aware of this facility and I do use it on my Kodiaq. Trouble is, it appears not to work every time I use it, so I keep my fob in a Faraday bag to be on the safe side.

Exactly same thing on our 1.5 Monte Carlo. Had to drive it 750kms to get it home from the dealership, over two days. Light came on at 730kms. So it made it home without refueling and that's a brand new motor not even run in. That wasn't on a motor way either, but a mix of town driving and open road stuff heading up to alpine where we live and driving it normally i.e. 110 kph, using Adaptive cruise and reasonably aggressive passing other cars when necessary etc. I was pleasantly surprised. Showed 5.5L/100km on the display first day. The headlights are nice too, good if not better than the Kodiaq's on high beam. I find the DCC sport setting better for twisty open road driving in both the suspension firmness and steering feel than normal too. A VRS Kamiq with even the 140kw 2 litre motor would be interesting alternative to a Polo GTI.

I thought this was worth sharing - it's probably been discussed numerous times before but I think it's worthy of mentioning again. (Mine's an Octavia 2 pre facelift estate.) The outside handle stopped working, the cable had come loose and I could only open the door from inside. To repair you must take the handle off and I struggled to find clear instructions so here goes... - DON'T take the door card off the inside, there's no need, it doesn't get you anywhere other than a drive full of broken trim clips. - You will need a Torx t20 that is long and slim. I tried with a t20 bit in a screwdriver bit holder and couldn't get it to work. I found that a right angled t20 (think of an allen key with a torx end) worked very well. - Open the door, on the edge of door you will see a small grommet that is covering a hole about 8mm in diameter just below the level of the door handle. Access that hole. - Insert the Torx key try and slide it parallel and underneath the end of the door handle, the bit of the handle that doesn't move when you open the car door. You looking for a T20 bolt that fixed to the underside of the handle. I wrongly assumed that the bolt was a grub screw - it's not. I assumed that it was threaded in to the actual handle and was aiming too high. It's actually a fixed bolt that doesn't move but as you wind it, the thread drags a tiny vertical fin or blade fore and aft. The movement of this fin allows you to remove the fixed 'thumb' part of the handle. It's not the easiest of tasks to find this screw but a bit of wiggling should find it. - Unwind (anticlockwise) no more than 12 rotations (I got to 10.5 turns and found that was sufficient to loosen the 'thumb' part) - The smaller end of the door handle should be able to be prised out. It's cast, it looks pretty brittle, be careful you don't drop it. - the end of the cable can be seen - it's black, a resin or plastic with serrated grips that fit in to the corresponding channel in the door handle. Flick it out of the way. - The handle can now be slid towards the open end of the door, pulled away from the door skin and rotated out of the door. The repair took 10-15 minutes, and cost nothing, once I solved the riddle. The mess I created from taking the door panel off will require purchase of new clips and I doubt it'll ever be the same again.

In which hospital? I'm sure we can have a whip round and send you flowers and grapes....

I have just driven my new (owned it for 2 weeks) Kamiq 1.5 tsi dsg, from mold (ne wales...in case you were wondering,,,its an actual place), to Prestattyn and back ....got 52 mpg. goddamit, i'm a happy beaver ... this was my 1st proper run, with with wife and dog. All other runs had just been to work and back.. a trip of 1.8 miles (27.8 mpg)