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Ok, my problem obviously was slight ingress of water into the box, just driven 15 miles with lots of gear changes, no problems, I'll reopen the box and run a smear of silicone grease around the joints - that should hopefully waterproof the box contents!! Should have adhered to my longtime mantra, 'Keep it simple stupid' otherwise known as the KISS principle!!

Now looking all clean and shiny! my initial thoughts after a weeks ownership have always had red cars in recent years. Must say business grey does seems to clean up/dry nicely with a little sparkle/fleck to it so I think it will reasonably easy to keep it looking good? Black plastic rear bumper looks like it may scuff up with time (I suspect plastic side lower door panels won’t be so bad). - what are people using to clean/protect the plastic panels? Can’t remember the last time if at all I had a car with plastic bumpers? Is the front face of the 18” bragas diamond cut? If not, it is very similarly to that finish and seems a slightly different finish to the rest of the alloy? I think they look great but are quite fiddly to clean so have protected them with Collinite 845 wax nice to see when opening the doors that the sills are more or less spotless - I have still ordered door sill scuff plates from Ali express though 😀 I can just about reach the middle of the roof panel to clean it without a step ladder! Have also got to grips with the varioflex seats - have also done the s hooks and magnet mod to help tether the rears seats to the front headrest tubes when when folded forward

Correct. And as above. The Mechatronics (including the ECU part) is just one part according to VW/Skoda. So if one part fails then the whole unit is replaced (officially). So it should be covered. Since regardless of what has failed inside it, it's still a complete unit classed as an ECU.

Relevant wording highlighted.

I'd put the question to them of what and wasn't included under "Automatic Gearboxes". The mechatronics is just a combined computer controller and solenoid/actuator unit. A standard automatic gearbox usually has the same thing too. I'd say unless the wording explicitly excludes gearbox control units etc then they should cover it. Do you not have a copy of the full terms of the warranty?

Not the ball hitch; muck in the electrics plug senting a false signal that there's a trailer in tow.

Six years on!!! I use Mannol 504/507 at 8-10k intervals. It costs £50 for 20 litres and it brilliant oil - no issues at all over 60k miles. I have never changed the sump plug or used a torque wrench on it. In fact, when I got a slight weep, I just put a couple of winds of ptfe tape around the threads nearest the hex on the plug and it cured it. Changed oil in cars this way for 40 years and never lost a sump plug or had any engine problems. Filters have ranged from Crosland to Mann to Bosch and many more - never been an issue. Oh, and I never use a pump - doesn't remove any crap/sludge from the sump. I get it nice and warm and drop the whole lot out from the bottom! So, I do my changes on my 2008 1.9 PD for about £17 and an hour of my time (leisurely pace). Don't give the money to the stealers.

'Not heard of any issues with the new Octavia'! That is a blatant and very obvious lie. They should be ashamed of themselves!

MY18 1.4tsi SEL I definitely have a 75 litre tank, it is an option in some markets over the standard 66 litres but not in the UK where its available for the Audi A6. For some reason I got it for free, maybe due to production shortages, I can't check the PR codes as there is no sticker in the spare wheel well. The PR code being 1Z2 iirc I know it is 75 litres (nominal) as I have filled it to first click with 76 litres and 30 miles remaining. Also the range calculation ties in with fuel left divided by average mpg since refuelling closely. Ave mpg also ties in with my refill quantity closely each time. I often get 900+ mile range reported when driving is mostly motorway. I filled up with above, 57.79 litres to first click which for 719 miles is 56.6 mpg a 3 percent difference.

Did a basic reset. These ones are easier to do as the ecu does the reset within defined parameters already stored in the programme. The older engines you had to input the min/max voltage to adapt and make them work.

Sorry if this is too late, but here is my recently debadged mk III.

What really annoys me is that the dealerships, in general are in denial whilst Skoda UK are sat on the wall waiting for the software update but reading all the various issues on here I'm not convinced it's going to be a one stop shop to fix them all.

I remember another thread that had the same problems with the updates not working; its in essence one of two possible problems. 1) The firmware of the MIB system is stopping you from updating the maps 2) VW stopped supporting the MIB1 last year, so the 2020 maps were the same as the 2019 maps. As to fixing this; you could try to see if you can get hold of a firmware update - @pab567 is your man who can hopefully advise here. Failing that, you are into a new MIB2 system (or a rebuilt unit that is made into a MIB2.5 unit) with a new head unit and touch screen. What you will need is an admap scan of your car of the appropriate 5F module, send it to @pab567 who can hopefully build you a new system. The touch screens will need to be ordered directly from Skoda UK. Please see the following thread for information:

Wee pic from tonight’s walk

Jesus, that really is a Friday car. Sorry to hear that. Nobody needs grief like that. As the owner of one of the first Spacebacks in the UK, I’ve experienced a couple of issues with mine: Doors filling up with water - I had this and eventually had it fixed under warranty, but only after taking initial legal action against Skoda UK which tried to get out of covering it. The terrible seats - a part of the car (and addressed in the facelift). I also had to have the seat covering on the lower drivers seat replaced after the retaining metal failed and it came loose. The car does have a lot of natural rattles and clunks, especially from the front axle. There is nothing mechanically wrong, just a quirk of the car. I had to spend over £500 last year having the wiring to the boot replaced after it snapped in half, rendering the boot lock inoperable. My extended warranty would not cover it because it was a wiring fault. I’ve not had any of the other issues you report. I really hope you can get them sorted. Personally, even if they do get fixed I would flip that car as soon as possible, it sounds like a lemon.

personally that's a cracking bike for the price

No idea what they are doing stuff was sent off back in August time last year 🤷🏻‍♂️ all declared with insurance the guy from the insurance company even knew the car from the videos.

It's connected to the powertrain CAN bus; I think that would not be possible if it were not an Electronic Control Unit (ECU).

The above also includes "modulator valves, hydraulic gear shift governors, internal valve blocks and servos, and oil pumps". All of these things are contained within the mechatronics unit. And according to VW the mechatronics is a single part and is just swapped out as a complete unit (they don't do repairs to them).

The donor car was a 60 plate A6 saloon, so no chance of the rears fitting (although actually, I haven't tried), as far as I'm aware, any C6 (2004-2011) variant will do. In my case (manual cloth Elegance), the following connectors needed to be swapped: Driver side: Airbag (3 pin yellow), seatbelt (2 pin black) Passenger side: Airbag (3 pin yellow) The donor seats came with 4 connectors: Airbag (3 pin yellow) - easy swap, the wire colours match Seatbelt (black, not sure of the connector as it was already missing) - different colours, but I just matched up the ones with the stripe - possibly doesn't matter as I'm guessing it just checks for an open or closed circuit. Seat Electrics (8 pin red, although only 4 wires) - had to do some research on this one, it appears 2 of the wires (pins 4 + 5) are for the lumbar control, and the other 2 are for the rear footwell lights, I didn't bother with the lights, just connected the lumbar to 12V Seat Heating (green 6? pin) - no idea, ignored this one as I don't have the wiring. If you just solder/heatshrink the new connectors on, it's probably quicker, and in hindsight I think this would have been a better option as I can't envision swapping them back. There's also an extra locating pin on the Audi seats which I cut off with hacksaw and then filed down, otherwise they just drop in. You'll lose the rear seat pockets, and the storage under the passenger seat (could probably be attached somehow, but I couldn't get the screw holes to line up).

They've closed the high street shops, but still exist as an e-tailer.

First time driving the e-tron today. What a beast, its really, really quick!

What a total pile of BS. It’s either negligent, incompetence or downright dishonesty! Sorry to hear about the issues you’re having, it’s such a shame!

VW Codes Decoder http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx 1JB = Rear shock absorption for rough-road design rear axle | Skoda Superb 2010, suspension shock absorber (spring cyl.) for models with heavy duty suspension PR-1JB http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/SUP/year/2010/drive_standart/632/hg_ug/511/subcategory/511020/part_id/2561497/lang/e Rear Springs 1 1K0511115CL coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark rear red orange Model data: PR-0YA (1) 1K0511115CM coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark rear red orange Model data: PR-0YB (1) 1K0511115CN coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks rear red orange Model data: PR-0YC (1) 1K0511115DJ coil spring 1 paint mark 3 paint marks 1 paint mark rear red orange brown Model data: PR-0YD (1) 1K0511115DK coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 1 paint mark rear red green brown Model data: PR-0YE (1) 1K0511115CR coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks red green Model data: PR-0YF (1) 1K0511115CS coil spring 1 paint mark 3 paint marks red green Model data: PR-0YG (1) 1K0511115CT coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark rear red brown Model data: PR-0YH (1) 1T0511115AB coil spring 2 paint marks 2 paint marks red yellow Model data: PR-0YJ (1) 1T0511115AC coil spring 2 paint marks 3 paint marks red yellow Model data: PR-0YK Rear Shock Absorbers 7 3C0513049BN gas shock absorber for models with heavy duty suspension rear Model data: PR-0YB,0YC, 0YD,0YE,0YF (7) 3C0513049BP gas shock absorber for models with heavy duty suspension rear Model data: PR-0YK,0YH, 0YJ Three rear springs that you might want to select from are the weight range 6, 7, and 8 rear springs. Weight Range 6 Rear Spring 1K0511115CR Wire Diameter 12.5mm, Length 380mm, Weight 2.4kg https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/86359/detail?query=1K0511115CR&numberType=1&oe=1K0511115CR#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%201K0511115CR;query:1K0511115CR;page:0/detail:86359;brandId:1;articleNo:86359;query:1K0511115CR;numberType:1;oe:1K0511115CR Weight Range 7 Rear Spring 1K0511115CS Wire Diameter 12.75mm, Length 382mm, Weight 2.6kg https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/86501/detail?query=1K0511115CS&numberType=1&oe=1K0511115CS#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%201K0511115CS;query:1K0511115CS;page:0/detail:86501;brandId:1;articleNo:86501;query:1K0511115CS;numberType:1;oe:1K0511115CS Weight Range 8 Rear Spring 1K0511115CT Wire Diameter 13mm, Length 383mm, Weight 2.8kg https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/87414/detail?query=1K0511115CT&numberType=1&oe=1K0511115CT#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%201K0511115CT;query:1K0511115CT;page:0/detail:87414;brandId:1;articleNo:87414;query:1K0511115CT;numberType:1;oe:1K0511115CT KYB RH6426 matches 1K0511115CT https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kyb/825745 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223591301666?hash=item340f148222:g:MdAAAOSwpc5dMCXZ

Although rim size is 15 inch your tyre that you have fitted on the spare is ok because the profile (55) makes the tyre when fitted to the 15 inch rim makes it the same car height with the lower profile of the other rims/tyres, this is common with the MK III cars with a spare, the standard spare size is 185/55/15 and carries a yellow sticker for 50mph this is for the handling of the car not the tyre as it's a normal size tyre unlike other thin get you home wheels so you can leave the rim on to suit yourself just doesn't look very good, i did try one of the 17 rims in the spare wheel in the rear but would not fit in properly and not secure down so can see why they use the smaller sized tyre and rim

Interesting. A colleague recently had a new screen fitted to his car and he said the optics are awful...OK for his wife who is a foot shorter, but when he drives it gives him vision problems. Do you have to pay extra for OEM screens? I guess insurance wont cover it?

The temperature radiator fan switches have scales at 5 °C Which thermo switch says on that is for 88C only? Take a look some Mahle: https://www.euspares.co.uk/manufacturer/mahle-original/temperature-switch-radiator-fan-10434 all of them have Switch-on point and Shut-off Point [°C]

It doea feel like a rally each day dodging idiots that cut in front My bad, i meant aftermarket, the filter is oem I plan on buying a new car but right now a house is in the plan, i can't stand living in an apartment anymore, and i'll be just as far from work, houses in the city aren't for medium wage people like me. The car might be an electric if in a few years they'll get cheaper and have more range which seems like it. Those will check a lot of marks feom my list. Until then I'll either buy a smaller car like a Swift 1.4 turbo, hyundai i20, something with low fuel consumption, i've read about a few models that also aren't slow and petrol thirsty like my fabia or just endure using it 2-3 years longer Can't I make a jdm car out of it's engine? xD

@Agalalh You mentioned you don't want the radiator fun to run almost all the time. A lower temperature thermo-switch will keep the fan working often. It is not economical to use the radiator fan for lowering the coolant temperature. A lower temperature thermostat (that Skoda fitted to all cars exported to tropical countries from factory) will do a much better job. For tropical countries that can be a last solution. The drawbacks are the radiator fan will have to serve as the regulating factor for cooling and in case the engine will not reach a stable 90° C the consumption will be slightly higher..

Try here - page 74

Yeah, it sort of depends on whether you are looking to take on a bit of a 'project'! Worth noting that others have said it only took them 4 hours, so I may just be slow. If you have to buy tools it certainly cuts into the savings, but you may find that you can borrow one or two of them - a lot of people would have a hand-riveter, for example. Whatever you decide, the boards are great and I would fully recommend.

It took me a while to do the mods as my back can only take an hour or so before it gives out on me. I find being under the car is a lot better than leaning over into the engine bay as I tend to get stuck! I found using the guides on here, choosing the right day for the weather and loading up on ibuprofen allowed me to get things done. Don't do what I did and try to delete the SAI in February in the sleet and rain. Not a good move on my part.

Not sure if you're interested but I recently bought the front grille badge for my car. It took a bit of tracking down as some sellers wanted £25! In the end it was about £14 but is a genuine badge, not a cheapo reproduction. Here's the link : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192197008784

Sorted Sorted Sorted Email address is dodge mate so nothing for you... Sorted Sorted Sorted Sorted

I get it, As said it is just an item of Stock to a Dealership/Salesman and to the majority of People that own Cars they are just a tool to get them from A to B. I buy my Cars outright from money I have saved over many Years, I try and get the best examples I can and while I own them they get pampered and want for nothing. They are my mode of Transport but also my Hobby and an investment. My issue is like Yesterday I was dealing with an alleged VW Specialist, They are Authorised REVO Tuning Dealers and should know the VAG range very well. So I was disappointed when the Car was not as described upon inspection and I had already told the Salesman on the Phone what my expectations where and that I have high standards but was assured it was a superb example. I had presumed that they would be a bit more particular about the Used Stock they Sell and would have better standards than the average Dealership and also understand the expectations of Enthusiasts when they are dealing with them. I always do an MOT History check on anything I buy or enquire about as you rightly said when a Car/Motorcycle fails on basic items which should be checked regularly by the Owner Alarm Bells begin to ring, I was in the Motor Industry as a Manager for 8 Years upto 2014 and saw vehicles that came in for MOT's and/or Servicing that had no Oil on the Dispstick and when the Customer was asked when they last checked the Oil they said they hadn't done it since it was in with us 12 Months ago for its last MOT & Service Rightly or wrongly my expectations when I am buying a Used vehicle are very high, I have sold many Performance Cars to fellow enthusiasts over the Years and to some multiple Cars and I have been nothing but 100% honest about everything good and bad regarding the Car because that is how I would want to be treat if I was looking. The last Motorcycle I sold was purely off the my Owners Thread on Detailingworld, I didn't even advertise it. Like you I also enjoy the hunt, Even though I get a bit disgruntled when I have a wasted journey something else always comes up and when it does it is really satisfying and makes the effort worthwhile. I am never going to lower my standards even if it does make things difficult for me P.S My main reason for making this Thread was to alert any other potential Brisky Members that might also be looking for a MK3 Octy VRS that if they are considering viewing this Car then they know what to expect and won't have the wool pulled over their eyes.

Not the best scenery but this one’s mine.

My Candy White SE L Karoq basking in the early morning sunshine.

Hi all, Again apologies for the late reply but it's been a bloody turgid affair to get to the point where I had my car returned to me today. Sounds like great news (which it is.) but... So, I submitted the independent report requesting a courtesy car and the Dealership promptly replied - 'We reject its findings and don't agree with it'. They were still of the opinion that the only way the damage could have been caused was by 'user error' despite how clear the report had been - that came directly from the Workshop manager at the dealership. They rejected the reports findings that this fault was present at the 'point of sale' outright. At this point my family were trying to coax me down from the ceiling by offering me various sedating medications and a G&T to calm me down. In all seriousness I was pretty despondent to be honest. Anyway, I tried something I've never done before and got the e mail of the CEO of the particular Dealership I was dealing with and e mailed them directly and explained the situation. To their credit his Executive Assistant phoned me within 5 minutes and was brilliant. She assured me that she would contact the Branch Manager and that they would be in contact with me within the hour. The Branch Manager did indeed contact me within the hour and clearly had been 'briefed' as he was almost too nice. He apologised and said that he was unaware of the issue at his branch and this was the first time he'd been made aware of the situation - that in itself was a pretty big warning sign for me. Although I'm a Paramedic I manage a big team and I NEVER like surprises, so I'd definitely want to know why there was this issue brewing that my team had not briefed me on. Anyway, he then informed me that although the dealership Head mechanic disagreed with the report, as a gesture of goodwill they would complete the repair under warranty, refund the cost of the independent inspection and provide me with a courtesy car. Great news. It took another 4 days to get the courtesy car, I still haven't had the request for my bank details to make the payment for the inspection and when I spoke to the Service manager again (4 days later) he was still saying that the Head mechanic didn't believe the report. Thanks to another forum member he PM'd me with some very useful information which I'll paste below: "HI, Just seen your post about clutch issue with the Kamiq, did you get it sorted in the end? Depending on what gearbox you have fitted and the date the vehicle was made this may help, The Information is from a Skoda tech webinar from September 2020. hope it helps, Vehicle specification  Model: Octavia III, Scala, Karoq, Kamiq, Fabia III  Engine: 1,0 TSI (EA 211) in combination with the manual gearbox MQ200  Complaint/Fault symptom  Clutch slips, smell of burning from the clutch area  After having been removed, the clutch is found to be burnt or degraded/fallen apart Technical background/Cause  Due to anticorrosion protection applied to the flywheel and the clutch, the friction value increase is much more slowly. This may lead to premature clutch failures.  Despite optimizing measures (plate lining of the clutch S308, the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate with temperature stability and decreased rpm in the transport mode), the premature heat overload of the clutch still sporadically occurs.  The clutch failures occur in the range from 10 km to several thousands km depending on how the vehicle is operated.  Measure/Production change  Parts without Anticorit have been fitted to the vehicles since CW 20/2019 (except for Fabia III, where the measure has not been implemented yet). After I sent this, would you believe it the Service manager contacted me and said that the engine mentioned in the above report corresponded to the one I had in my Kamiq and the damage, was, after all, caused by this manufacturers fault - he then asked me where I got the information from. It took every inch of my willpower not to chuffing explode. However, I dug deep, confirmed everything was being repaired and replaced and that it would be ready the next day. So, on Weds 16th June I went to collect the Kamiq from the dealership and brought it home. It drove perfectly. That is until I got to a set of traffic lights and had to stop to suddenly realise that when the engine was in idle there was a profound vibration coming through the steering wheel and the seat. I genuinely thought for a second that I was going nuts. I continue the drive as I'm nearly home, stop the car and ask my wife to get in and start the Kamiq up. Hey presto about a minute later she says WTF is that vibration and judder? Thank you Lord - it wasn't just me. I get straight on the phone to the Service manager who if I'm being completely honest did everything he possibly could (bar calling me nuts) to convince me that it would settle down. I point blank refused to accept that and asked him to read out to me the road test result and quality control report after the fix to the gearbox and clutch before the Kamiq was released back to me. Conveniently, he didn't have access to them. So, he arranged for a courtesy car to be delivered to my home address the next day and he would take away the Kamiq to get it looked at. 2 days later I hadn't heard anything (there's a pattern here....) so I called him and he confirmed that a high pressure pump had failed which was causing the juddering. They'd ordered the part and would have it fixed by today and get the car returned to me - which they did. After all the grief I'd gone though with this dealership they didn't even road test the bloody thing before they returned it to me?! As I keep saying I'm not a mechanic but this has to be a quality control issue surely? Time after time on these forums people talk about shoddy technicians and poor customer service. The car is back and well, it's different. It drives perfectly well, there is no judder but the old car just purred when it was in idle - it's a 1 litre petrol engine after all. Now, it's just that bit noisier and louder on acceleration. Is it something I can send back? No, but it's not the same. I hoping some of you will be able to reassure me that it'll settle down. Well, they still haven't asked for my bank details so they can refund me the cost of the inspection and despite 2 requests they haven't sent me a single copy of a list of the actual works carried out which my lease company are, not unreasonably, wanting. The bloody car didn't even come back with a valet!??!? Yes, a cursory sponge was put on the outside but the inside was filthy. If I was the service manager I would have had it come back looking like it had stepped off of the production line. So, there you have it. I will write back to the CEO and give them my experience. It won't be in the format of a complaint but it will be from the perspective of a very patient and reasonable service user that was treated like crap from day one, took the intervention of the CEO's office to intervene and even then they continued to **** it up. One last piece of advice please - it still stinks of a burnt clutch from the outside. It's fine when I get in the car but from the outside it still smells. Is that normal for a replacement clutch or just a hangover from the original smell when the thing was knackered. Lastly - thank you. Thank you to all of you that have taken the time to post and send me advice and encouragement. It's the internet at its best and I'm very appreciative of you all. Best BC

Took collection of my silver SE Technology iv estate with a few extras today ( 18" alloys, Virtual cockpit, rear blinds, elec boot, rear camera, heated steering, heated windscreen, heated washers,usb c in mirror, lane change assist, sign camera recognition) What a great car!! I've switched from a 200d 2017 Mercedes E-class estate and so far i am enjoying driving the Skoda more. It is very quick and i like how quickly it self charges in Sport B-mode - did 70 miles and this charged the battery to 36%. Still getting my head aound all the settings. Basic sound system is more than ample. Only negative is the centre console where it meets the arm rest squeeks!! hopefully this goes as it wears in and moves about a bit. I will be doing about 25k miles a year so will see how it goes. i cant complain when it is only costing me £73 a month in company car tax

It sounds like a faulty sensor in the engine, making it think engine is running differently to how it expects (fuel / air gas mix or at an odd temperature). If the throttle is only doing things in first gear, might be a sticky brake, or the hill hold related problem. From your description it could even be something physical with the pedal not moving freely Hope dealer finds the fault (get them to scan for all fault codes), and fixes it.

A VW Up GTI maybe. Or maybe something that has not much power, but rear wheel drive and OEM ditch finder tyres and you can get loads of fun within the UK NSL. Or get a BMW i3 / VW ID.3 and have fun & range anxiety.

That’s not correct, I’ve got no rear wiper and can wash the camera via the infotainment screen.

I finally got around to using the autoglym ceramic HD I've had in the garage for a year! I'm fairly impressed as applied, let's see how long it lasts.

Mileage is poor indication of brake pad usage. Someone who lives in a City might be encountering traffic lights every quarter mile, but someone else in quiet part of country might drive 30 miles on easy roads / motorway and only use brakes couple of times. You will get better idea accurately measuring tyre tread depth (and check the 4 digit date code, if not all same, then some tyres have been changed to mask wear). A sensible user will not have needed to buy new tyres if offloading car at 15k miles unless they got a puncture or damaged one.

What do you guys think?

I think the alternator and battery are both in good working order, but the effect of the battery booster suggests that one of the cables between the alternator and battery may be higher resistance than it should be. This is quite likely to be due to corrosion at one or both terminal connections. Both of the earth cable ends are quite open to splashed water. I would start with the main earth cable that links starter motor and chassis. Take off the battery negative clamp first, then disconnect both ends of this cable, and clean the connecting crimp terminals, as well as the surfaces they touch when installed. The engine end connects to the upper mounting bolt of the starter motor, the chassis end connects to the left chassis leg, just above the fan control module, arrowed in this photo:

I did Glasgow to North Wales and back in a day on one tankfull in ny 2028 1.4tsi. 720 miles. 70mph on the motorway going down and 75ish coming home. Brim to brim was 47mpg. Included an hour of slow stop start passing Liverpool on the return. From memory the fill up was just over 70l.

I'm totally confused with my car, 2018 1.4tsi SEL executive. I've filled up in the past just after the low fuel light came on, needle sitting at top of red section, 70 miles left and got over 76 litres to 1st click. Now I'm looking at my car having done 502 miles since last refill, needle sat at halfway, and range left claimed 377 miles. Do I believe this? I think I must have at least an 80 litre tank. All driving has been at Motorway limit, computer usually saying 50-54 mpg average on long runs, though last time I topped up I calculated only 42mpg based on top up quantity over trip miles. (That was the one time I had used regular rather than usual super-unleaded) Tomorrow got a 200 mile round trip, dare I trust the 377 miles left indication? An hour later and.....I decided to top up the tank, just over 44 litres so 51mpg actual.... (Super unleaded). Still non the wiser re my tank capacity.

Mine was build as well in November 2020. And to be honest, besides a plastic trim that was not fitted properly and was doing a crackling noise in the soundaktuator area, nothing to be remarked. For me, what's is quite annoying, and hoping that VCDS development arrives soon, is the check list I have to do before starting to roll ... lane assist off ... check! ... start/stop off ... check! ... driving profile auto ... check!

25k miles? Leave it alone for another 25k, but look at it on each service for wear or damage. There is a FUD campaign going on in the UK to scare people into very early cambelt changes in order to generate revenue for dealers. It's basically a scam being spread largely through social media, and UK dealers.... And if the water temp is fine, and the waterpump sounds fine, and has no leaks, it is fine.