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What makes EV tires different, and why should you fit them. (ignore the constant talk of range concerns by the petrol head) I found it interesting there's so much difference differences between the tyres of same made and model (difference of EV vs regular).

There was a trial the actually showed Pfizer followed by AZ or AZ followed by Pfizer was more effective than two doses of one. This news article is a bit old, but the most up to date I could find: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/health-57636356 If it helps, the Sputnik vaccine is two slightly different versions for each dose. I believe they are use different carrier viruses.

I have managed to restore an older cars paintwork with my DA polisher and a whole weekend attacking it but it’s not for the faint hearted!! I swear the paintwork on my 25 year old Volvo 940 Turbo has kryptonite in it or something.

Fair point. Defects that a normal person would notice I suppose, rather than what a professional detailer/painter would notice. I do have a DA polisher but for most people that is going a bit too far. Start with the basics and you’ll get so much better results. If you like the process and the results you may want to take it step further but walk before you can run - make it too complex and people will be put off with the time/expense needed for the ultimate finish. Which isn’t what most people really want, they just want to keep that “as new” look and feel to their car. I do think some people make it look very complex and hard work and put people off. I reckon with a basic cleaning set consisting of decent products and tools you’ll save money fairly soon rather than paying for a drive through place.

Not related to AA connection and not sure if it's coming with this upgrade or was available with previous updates ... but now I have a direct ASR / DCS enable/disable in the SET menu shorcut ... Nice ! 🙂

There seems to be a misunderstanding on the process. A rejection request letter lists faults, gives the supplying dealer one chance to fix them (not multiple attempts, or only fixing some), if they don’t 100% fix then when you go in to collect car, don’t have to accept it. Can just offer your debit card to process the refund there and then. The time wasting excuses are just that, outside the basic consumer protection law. You have no contract with Skoda UK, the dealer has a commercial (business) contract with Skoda. It’s unconnected to your (retail) sales contract with dealer. Any waffle they need approval from Skoda is just a lie, how and when they get reimbursed by Skoda UK is not your concern, their commercial contract covers that. There is no reason why your rejection should be delayed. If you have a separate contract with finance company you may need to settle that. The dealer might have been an introducer (helped arrange a contract between you and the finance Co), but if so any ongoing connection there is also irrelevant. If you have financed the car, Phone the finance Co and check what type of deal you have, let them know you are rejecting, they will let you know if you settle direct, or can keep the finance running as a loan unconnected to a specific vehicle, in which case can use it for any car (doesn’t have to be same dealer, or even same car brand). For clarity in certain types of finance the finance Co owns car, not you until it is paid for. If it is one of these they will need to be involved in the rejection to ensure they get reimbursed. If you are unsure of type, just ask finance Co when you phone them (they are regulated, by Finance Regulator, so staff on phone need to be accurate). If the dealer is still messing about, use direct method, walk in, stick both keys on salesman’s desk, and ask if they would like your debit card to process refund. And yes the card machine on his desk can also do instant refunds (probably will require a refund PIN to be entered by dealer, but should have your money in few seconds). The card machine refund receipt is normally the only paperwork the customer needs. Get your refund, then if dealer wants to take 7 weeks to do his internal paperwork that’s their problem.

Don’t bother trying to argue with people who don’t take care of their cars paintwork, they always seem weirdly proud their car looks like crap. Being lazy and not caring for such an expensive purchase isn’t a positive in my book.

To put the UK prices into perspective, these are the from prices in Germany Easy spec from eur 13,990 = £ 11,964 Active spec from eur 15,590 = £ 13,332 Ambition spec from eur £16,890 = £ 14,444 Style spec from eur 19,590 = £ 16,752 Whilst UK specs do not match exactly, the 4 UK grades are S spec from £ 14,905 which is 1.24 times base spec German price SE comfort spec from £ 16,795 which is 1.26 times German price colour edition spec from £ 17,495 which is 1.21 times German price SE L spec from £ 18,980 which is 1.13 times top spec German price Quite a price penalty in the UK https://cc.skoda-auto.com/deu/de-DE/trimline-scenic?_ga=2.217199957.293514760.1631651615-7a76cba9-62db-4a8a-812f-86b2463a9c78&activePage=trimlines&color=2X1Z&configurationId=&extraEquipments=GWC1WC1|GPX8PX8&id=DEU%3Bskoda%3B2022%3BPJ34F4%3B1%3BGYOQYOQ%3Bmda20210913074939%3Bde-DE%3B%3B60004%3B60004&interior=NL&modelcode=PJ&modifiedPages=&salesprogram=DEU&snapshotVersion=65b565b0-8f5b-41be-9547-7cdf726f329a&trimline=PJ4|Style6000460004&type=Car configurator&visitedPages=

I've had alot of cars... the last before the vrs being an fn2 type r and the vrs feels faster. I've never actually liked the feel of a turbo I've always preferred a naturally aspirated engine 1. Because you know what you are gonna get when you put your foot down and 2 because I just feel there more reliable (sometimes) 😂. That being said the vrs seems to have a decent bit of poke and it's almost consistent!.. most of the time the turbo seems to be awake and i get that little push back in the seat especially in 2nd and other times it's just not there 🤷🏻‍♂️...it is standard at the moment but I will deffo be visiting rtech for a stage 1 as soon as they can get me in... I'm hoping that will help with the power delivery being more responsive and I'm looking forward to the torque people talk about. Congrats on your mk1 octavia purchase tho... I love mine... I've deffo got that connection with her that I just haven't had with some of my cars. She's a keeper.

Whilst it solves the problem short term, at the expense of British companies & exports, a ruined Christmas due to shortages might focus a lot of minds. The government is going to be forced to add EU drivers & low skilled factory workers onto the in demand immigration list. They may even have to pay more than UK workers as an enticement which will be the real kicker for many.

Have you had a look under there, it cannot have come far from where it should be.

I wouldn't be surprised if you can get a model in the Flamenco Red. They did do most of the colours. Might just be in the 1/43 scale though. I am trying to get models of all the Skodas I've had. I'm yet to find any vRS specific ones yet though.

Slightly bit off topic but also on topic at the same time... I've had 20vt's in the past, none have been standard (stage 1) and whenever you planted it, you got a proper shove in the rear, especially on my old 20vt mk2 with a k03s, however, ive just got my occy vrs, i love it, but i feel somewhat underwhelmed when i put my foot down? like, is that the power delivery is just THAT linear theres almost nothing to notice of the increase in speed bar the speedo? or do i have something wrong with mine ? lol I'm trying to work out whether theres a boost leak and im down on power or that these cars are just genuinely that linear with their power delivery and to get that shove i'll need to get it mapped..? Please help lol

No 1 sounds very familiar. my 2012 Yeti did a little "lurch" on steering lock when starting off from new. I do a lot of gravel road driving, never had a problem with traction. Filters and oil have been changed regularly, and outside observers have not noticed any wheel spin/ no spin. The Haldex is predictive, and does not need wheel spin to engage. There are lots of signals the Haldex recognises to engage, particularly steering lock, throttle, hand brake etc. Perhaps your Subaru did not have the same inputs to the software? There are many incarnations of Haldex fitted, from Fiat Panda, Ford, Volvo, JLR etc so there is probably a variation in software. The funny "lurch" is mystifying, not at all adverse to any situation on or off road - but I would like to know what causes it 😖. Another funny one is cresting a hump in the road on a neutral throttle - you can feel as if the fuel shuts off momentarily - again, no problem. No 3 sounds like a re-gen, No 2 might need a diagnostic test

1. Not normal. Car should have had at least 2 Haldex oil and filter changes by now, any proof this has been done. 2. Agree with above. 3. Fans running on after stopping are usually caused by interrupted dpf regens . Do you do lots of short journeys?

AIUI a Haldex should only cut in in low traction situations. You tell us if, for example, you habitually do full throttle full lock takeoffs. BTW I'm not familiar with a Subaru that has a Haldex; they're normally FWD or full time 4WD. I'd agree with @Austin 7 above. Again agreed. So putting 2 and 3 together and making 5 check the outside temperature sensor (mode in trip computer, or value on Climatronic fascia (If you're in the UK, expect 10 to 20 degrees this time of year). (BTW this is why we ask you to fill in location and car details; they are actually relevant to fault diagnoses and legal advice).

Thanks for that prompt response. I am aware of the fixed oil & service intervals but I find it hard to break the previous Caterham/Morgan mentality of touring with loads of spares, tools & fluids. All of which should be un-necessary with a new car. Anyway, VW / Skoda VW 508 00 / 509 00 noted, thank you.

It’s not to account for waste so much to account for some of them not working. For example some of those listed have not passed trials. Look as the PBN/OAZ/J&J/Moderna numbers and it’s closer to 270m doses. Not all of those are delivered and some are purchased to be donated to CoVAX etc. 2 doses each is approx 140m needed 3 doses each is approx 210m needed We will fall somewhere between this and with donations and an amount of wastage will end up about right.

Question for manufacturers and importers of EV,s to the UK. Why are they not all being delivered with EV specific tyres? Why are some just coming with Suitable ECO tyres that can eek out range but are not performing well as All Season / All weather / all year round if you use all around the UK? Many will have tyres that might not require changing within the lease period so before handed back at 2 or 3 years. Lease / fleet / Motability etc will know how many miles as an average EV,s they own are getting out of a pair of set if tyres. So will the Tyre industry / tyre centre companies and so should the AA / RAC and SMMT.

yesterday got wrote off.. i was too knackered to get up. today was a heavy morning... but i made it out first morning ive needed to put the torch on the bike in months too! and first time needing it heading up the hilly roads. and i turns out i set a new best on one the hill climb sections... i didnt expect that!

Yeah, I'd be very happy if I can get 30k out of any tyre. Even the expensive Micheline CC+ on my Skoda is now down to 4mm after 16k. (rear are still 7mm though) But Hankook are known for lasting higher mileage among mid-range brand. So I think their EV tyres are worth a shot.

When I took it to the garage they tried multiple times using bead sealer. They actually advised reconditioning or a new alloy which I basically took as good advice because that wasn't making them any money haha. We'll try this new alloy anyway and see how we get on! Thank you.

Only way is dpf out and clean or replace. Just be double sure that's the issue. Likely from your description though.

I am aware of that! EDIT: Audi E-tron 55 charging curve.

@nta16The OP posted that the trim level is it being a 'Monte Carlo' so the beach chair like interior. @Rf91 Welcome. You want to know what servicing was done and by who if there is a FSH or FMDSH, not just that there was servicing done. Is it up to the Manufacturers Recommendations at the present time or do you need now to do things like change the 4 Spark Plugs, Air Filter, Pollen filter. ?Are all 4 tyres matching or at least has it matching pairs. If you need others to do any servicing it might be an idea to use a good VW Specialist Independent rather than a Skoda Main Dealer.

Try changing byte 17, bit 3 in 09 (Central Electronics) Should be called coming home via fogs active or similar IIRC

Aha....see, I am a novice.... Boot photo attached. I'll get lookinging at the golf bits.

Brilliant!! Enjoy ur whiskers....or eye lashes 😁

Yes, that is the manual workaround I did the same until the software fix was applied during a regular car service. The software fix adds a delay to the headlight startup dance, so when the engine fires, it doesn't interrupt the completion of the headlight startup sequence. Below is the service print out of the software fix (warranty recall) carried out - 94K1.

If it’s a 1.2 is a 4 cylinder, not 3.

Is there a 3 pot, 1.2 110bhp on 16 plate, I thought they were 4 cylinder? What gearbox does it have? Car battery would be the first thing that springs to my mind, modern computer programs are hard on car batteries and stop/start even more so. 60k-miles in itself doesn't mean as much as you might think, it depends how and when the miles went on. I've no idea about modern 3 pots with higher turbo boost but generally I'd have thought it might be possible they might attract an owner that exploits the performance which is fine if done sensibly and allowance is made for full (or better) servicing maintenance (and perhaps repair). I'd imagine, not looked, there will be threads here on possibly 1.2 1 100bhp pros and cons and I think I've seen threads that are more Monte Carlo specific. Lots of short journeys isn't the best for any car but if that's followed by heartless 'weekend' thrashing both are perhaps low mileage severe use. Again a "full" service history of annual oil & filter changes is good but often better if additional servicing and maintenance is done too. The correct (or better) materials also help in the servicing and maintenance. If there's history of tyre and brake changes that might give you a clue to it's previous treatment or how much is left on the current brakes and tyres. A set of mismatching tyres never inspires confidence in such vehicles. And the shiniest cars are not always the best driving/performing cars. Now there are some that like very spirited driving and making their cars look flashy and gleam that really look after their cars well, they soon become obvious especially after you've others that think they do the same and think they look after their car very well, but they don't really. A scantool readout would be very use whilst looking at the car as many might forget to delete historical error codes that may build a picture of the vehicle. In the old days some like to chip the car, that reduces the manufacturers margins, some chips were fine if used sensibly but others might not be. If the buyer is made aware then it's up to them but if the chip was removed (not declared on insurance) and the buyer wasn't told that's a different matter. I've no idea how these things go on now, they used to be expensive so the seller would want some return on cost and be able to brag. I've rambled enough . . .

Its a trembling spider wino ,and it hunts other spiders.also a type of daddy long legs or celler spider ,bit of useless info for ya haha

Steering right at speed rolls extra weight to the left - to me the extra noise doing this indicates left wheel bearing. When my son had a tyre hum issue on his 2016 mkIII turning left/right didn't really affect it.

Pics or it didn't happen!

I’ll hopefully find out on the 20th when it is in at Skoda. Really hoping my issue isn’t what you’re saying though, as that sounds expensive 😅

So put them to default, then they should cover the distance as it meant to be. I adjusted my lights and nobody is complaining about blinding.

Bet you got same as issue as me, i am sure my issue is the shock absorbers, posted on here few week back. Had car in garage to replace and they couldnt do as the bearing at the top was seized on and they wouldnt carry on without my confirming ok to replace shocks and bearings. So imo the noise i am hearing is the bearing shot and seized, which maybe what your hearing. Will confirm in a 2 of weeks when take car back in. Thanks

Not directly related to my Flamenco Fabia but I thought one of my late night purchases would interest some of you here! They are 1/87 (HO) scale in size, so just a little too small for my model railway (1/76, OO scale to others) but they do make excellent display pieces. e As an additional note, I'm aware of missing photographs from here. They were connected via my website and had been removed and then re-uploaded. Some came back and some didn't. I am unable to fix this currently as I don't have the correct permissions to edit the post.

Well I have gone and done it. Deposit down in a Zoe Riviera. R135 hp motor. In addition to the extensive standard specification of GT Line, Riviera is further enhanced with Easy Park Assist, a semi-autonomous driver aid which makes parking a breeze.

Yeah, but for those tools we have electric shavers, lawn mowers, robot vacuums and we also have automatic car washes for cars. So you can just use that.

Same here. I ordered in march, delivery date was at first set to 16 august then 10 september, and now there is simply no date :(

I think what Mick means is that you should lock the car, walk away, leave the key somewhere and then try to open the boot using the release button above the number plate. You should not be able to do so unless you have the key on your person. Not sure what you mean by "I can open the boot on the key fob from locked." as that sounds like expected behaviour.

Thank you ords, parts were spot on! Just revisiting this thread to say that after many months of ownership and contacting third parties managed to get cruise control retrofitted to the car. After talking with DMA Performance based in Basildon they weren't able to source the part new in the UK from their main suppliers or from Skoda due to stock shortage. They confirmed of what parts were required. I managed to locate the only one for sale new at the time from German Spare Parts. Took around 10 days to come from Germany. DMA managed to fit the stalk and activate it with some Skoda activation software. Should anyone else need this part information and have a similar car (2014 Skoda VRS TSI 2.0 DSG) see the below which worked for me: GESCHWINDI (Skoda) Part Number: 5E0054690A - This is the steering wheel stalk Cruise Control Activation Software: 5E0054800A - The Activation software/disc. Very happy now

Welcome. EDIT. Doh, sorry my stupidity. is it a 4x4 so with Haldex which should have been serviced even if only 25,000 miles and will have a DSG that needs Oil Changes @ 40,000 miles. or, Is it not a DQ200 DSG so a 7 Speed Twin Dry Clutch DSG, so no Oil Changes as recommended or shown as scheduled at 40,000 miles or anytime. A 2015 DQ200 DSG might be part of the Service Campaign (not Recall or Recall Action) which covers ones from 2013-2015. '34H5'. That was / is a Software Undate. A preventative measure because of possible Pressure / Heat issues and the premature demise of the MCU / leaks / cracks. (In the UK that started in 2017 so if the car / dsg is part of that it should have been done between then and now.) ? What is the service history, as in has it been on Fixed Annual Servicing or Variable and had 2 Services maybe even though only 25,000 miles done? Has it had the pollen filter changed recently, was the brake fluid changed at 3 years or 4 or even 5 years? What actually has it had done even with such a low mileage? ? Are the 4 tyres matching or at least matching pairs? What are the brake discs looking like, slight corrosion or more than slight? Prices are up from this on the Skoda Dealers Fixed Price Servicing and maintenance on 3-10 year old cars on Fixed Servicing at Participating Dealers. EDIT 2. I see @varaderoguy's link has the latest prices.

Good car - lots of toys - you should be happy. Check the service history to make sure it has been serviced by a Skoda Dealer on time. Check the car servicing against the timescales that Skoda recommend. A low mileage car like that should have had an annual service (ideally 4 services) to keep it sweet. https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/8b70c541-726b-4996-9999-66ebc7ca520b So - at five years, you should have had done: 1) Extended Scope Service (Oil, Filter, Air Filter, Cabin Air Filter, brake fluid, coolant, and if we are sticking by the book - a cambelt change/5 years) 2) If it is a DSG gearbox, I would recommend getting the gearbox oil changed (it will be a DQ250 6 speed box if it is an automatic). You might want to check / replace the windscreen wipers front and rear. 3) There are niggles, but nothing terrible. Lack of maintainance is the biggest problems with Skodas. Niggles I've experienced: a) Batteries dying - the EFM+ batteries are rubbish and get flaky after 4 years. b) Remove the Silica bag from the coolant header tank (cos they have a tendancy to split and knacker up your heater matrix) c) 1.8TSI engines are good; make sure you keep the oil changed regularly.

More-bhp do have a rolling road. Mine has been fine since 2006 and hasnt blown up yet

My Citigo e iv SEL had to be recovered to Skoda today. A red EV ! Warning light came on and a notice to stop the car. I had driven 10 miles and popped into a shop - it would not start the drive motor on my return. Skoda assist attended in a polite timely manner and the problem seemed to be an inbalance in the battery cells. 3 or 4 seemed to be empty and the control module had shut it down. interesting times ahead - can imagine this could be a hard one to repair due to lack of experience in dealerships. Scanning the internet i noticed a Skoda recall 93J5 - Citigo e iv built in May 20 may have bad battery cells which could cause a fire.

Stumbled across a comprehensive Library of "Press" photographs from the Official Skoda website: Skoda Storyboard Some of me faves from this below (from the RS and 4x4 selection):

In this post, ill try my best (in my humble opinion) to explain what i did to get the tray shut when you push it in and open, when you press it. Please use safety measures as applicable 1. You'll need to remove the complete part (1U2857962) from the dash. It has 4 torx screws. 2 below the AC/fan control knobs 2 below the gear lever. Disassemble the tray to 3 parts, a.Tray upper part b.tray holder c.bin. 2. Please note the position of the spring (indicated in the final outcome post) which might(read may) haunt you later which will go off if you try to open and close the tray. I forgot to note this and this took me days to figure it out, though this was fixed much before. 3.refer to post Part 1: uploaded 7 of 16 Here, i have posted few image(s) of the interior of the tray. (bin image as well) Youll need to find a screw (preferably) as per the dimensions indicated via vernier. Note that your mileage may vary depending upon the screw you chose. 4. After deciding the right screw(or whatever), youll find a small mark on the upper portion of the tray which moves up and down. On one end you can see (ideally a small 1 mm mark) the portion which is broke r lost or whatever which is needed to guide the mechanism to "Lock" and "Unlock". 5. Drill time. Before that, mark the position you want to drill using a marker or whatever you believe is right. And, If you have gone by my suggestion, youll have a 1mm screw and a 1 mm HSS drill bit. Carefully, very carefully start drilling by holding the top portion in one hand and the drill gun on the other. You RPM shouldnt be high as you may(or might) miss the mark rendering the unit slightly dysfunctional. If you are sure of the marking, proceed drilling gradually. As you reach the other end hold the pice tight as it might snug off a little, which shouldnt happen if enough care is taken. 6. Screw part. Use WD40 (or similar) and spray a little on the screw and some inside the newly drilled hole. Use a little force as you can and start to tighten the screw. If the specifications are as what i have used, youll see something similar to LAST IMAGE IN Part 2: uploaded 8-14 of 16 7. Now, a little bit of understanding of how this usually works, refer to: Part 1: uploaded 7 of 16 Images 3 to 6. This describes how the mechanism works internally. The screw will guide the mechanism to slide and stop at a position when the tray is closed. This means, that the tray will close with or without the bin. (Yes! With or without you - U2) Now, though it seems a little tough, its not as what it seems to be. Adjusting the screw to a "Point" is the key here. Use caution to not over tighten which may crack the body or danmage the mechanism.(Youve been warned many times by now) To test this, re-attach the spring which you removed while dis-assembling the tray. (Refer to images in last post) My way was to keep the upper portion of tray open. This is the best position i considered it to be to attach the spring. place the spring on the cylinder(dont know what else i could call it) with one end facing down, now you may to use nose pliers to wind it and position it as shown in the image. Test the tension by keeping your finger on the spring to ensure it doesn't snap off. (happened with me) If it does, please re-seat it accordingly. Fine tune the screw according to your satisfaction. now you should have got this issue resolved. (ideally) After final assemble your tray will funtion as it should provided you handle it wise. Note that this may not be THE soluition for some and may be for some so suityourselves accordsingly. 8. The last part is testing the tray with bin. This is a little tricky. Sometimes the guiding lines are damaged( as in my case) which guide the bin to sllide back and forth in the tray. Youll have to use some grease over the teeth and try it out a couple of tyimes (or more maybe) to find an ideal position whihc slides easy. However, if it doesnt fit in, may be the issue is somewhere else and you may have to LOOK into it deeper. This is the usual issue in Part # 1U2857962. Hope this helps someone. And im open for any knowledge transfer, which includes criticism or better ideas or anything that you want to convey. I will try to assist the person who would wish to do it provided adequate info is provided. Dhanyavaada!