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Got a 2017 Superb Combi/Estate last month, and of course one of the first things I needed to do was plug my iPhone into it for music, calls, maps, etc. It has a Columbus head unit, so wired CarPlay is there, but there's nowhere proper to put the phone, and the cable is a bit of a mess. The car came with an ashtray (which fortunately was never used for its intended purpose). So I wanted a place to put the phone, and the ability to wirelessly charge. I didn't want a phone holder up on the dash (makes no sense when the car's screen will be displaying CarPlay), and I didn't want to put it into the arm rest storage, because I'd forget it when I got out of the car. I didn't want cables trailing about the place at all. So I wanted it visible and accessible, but discreet. I also wanted whatever I built to be fully reversible. I looked into retrofitting the proper Phone Box, but I've an iPhone 13 pro in an Otterbox case, and my wife has a 12 Pro Max, and I don't think the Phone Box will fit the larger phone. I also liked the idea of wireless CarPlay. For short journeys, I'd just hop into the car with the phone in my pocket, and it would connect up automatically for calls and music. For longer journeys, I could set the phone down to charge. Never being one to put common or economic sense before a DIY project, I decided to build my own solution. And here's what I ended up with (excuse the banding on the screen, my camera was in silent shutter mode, and the sensor's refresh rate conflicts with the screen's): You get in the car, set the phone down on a glossy black surface below the aircon controls, the phone magnetically sticks to a MagSafe charger underneath, starts charging, Then when you turn on the ignition, the phone connects to a wireless CarPlay dongle, and within 20 seconds, you're wirelessly connected. So what exactly did I build? I'll explain in the next post.

They should fit just fine. Someone will be along shortly to paste in a huge table to confuse matters.

Had four CrossClimate 2's fitted a couple of days ago I've had the originals before and was a little disappointed with the winter performance as I'm a regular through the peak district in winter. I opted for Goodyear Vector 4 seasons gen 2 last time for the increased winter performance. My new Yeti still had it's Primacy 3's fitted (22k Miles) so it was a choice between the CrossClimate 2's and Vector 4 Seasons Gen 3's for me. Looking at the recent Tyre Reviews video he said the CC 2's have much improved winter performance. I dropped him a message and he said he'd go for the Michelin's. So now fitted and they do look slightly more aggressive. I'll report back once I've put some miles on.

I posted another video showing the return leg of a trip from Monifieth near Dundee to Gretna and then back again. I set off with only 60% battery as it was an unplanned journey. Roughly 170 miles and it was no problem. 60%

Hello All, Bought a Felicia Fun at auction a few weeks ago and starting a long renovation process on it... Had it shipped to where I am and getting parts sent up here to Orkney can be fun! This is one I bought, well wishes welcome! .......................

Disagree. Cooler air has more oxygen so the ecu compensates with more fuel. Warmer air is less dense so carries less oxygen, so the ecu compensates and uses less fuel. The weather need only be a few degrees lower and it does alter the air pressure and economy, hence why we have both map and maf sensors to compensate; which can equate to 1 or 2 mpgs of economy by itself. To get a good comparison ideally you would need the car in test conditions in a lab and alter the pressure and temp of the air. That way it would give a more representative value for the decrease in mpgs with the E10. Either way the E10 won't be as good as E5 but we are all about going green to save the planet...apparently.

Last generation for comparison.

Seems avoidable.

I get happy feelings with a clean bay. Inspiration (mine)

I found the same when it came to this part. Mention a DSG thermostat to Skoda and they generally have no idea what you're on about. The official description of the part is "coolant regulator" - part no "1K0 121 113 A" https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2015-768/1/121-121055/ Part 15 on the below diagram

OP has a CR170, so 6 speed wet clutch. (You can find out what someone's model is on mobile if you browse to their profile)

Pretty stunning sunset this evening - was incredible to watch the colours change in the space of half an hour.

Took my time in finding the one I liked the look of to replace my MIB1 with it's micro screen and ordered one that I'd seen seller/manufacturer recommended around the internet a bit for Mk3 Octy specifically and has been far better than I expected. I don't get the use out of the car to justify spending out on OEM and I like the pretty open ended possibilities that this offers and I get my bigger screen look. Octacore 4GB/64GB model on link below: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000642821453.html A bit of a rushed install as I was at home on standby when I went out to start and phone rang.... All matched up well, connected 2 supplied cables to power the inline antenna amplifier and brought all over towards centre behind screen where all would now plug into back of new unit, just enough and no more to work without stretching on RHD models. Canbus module with it works perfectly and allows full integration into all bits to play with and keep functionality for settings etc, I've retained the factory USB port as is with it an added another to glovebox as I could run 2 lines from it. Factory mic isn't utilised so has 3.5mm mic plug at back and will run one from that up to beside where factory one lives when I get a chance, inbuilt one by reviews says its just too quiet, so not even going to go there. Short clip to show some of features I have gained for £162 from those industrious folk way East. All pics and vid still have screen protector film on so makes it look a little less crisp, but does a good job for my needs and can play with Carista and VAGDPF now on the big screen finally

I use to own a MK2 Octavia VRS which was at stage 3 and I had got the K04 turbo rebuilt by AET Turbos. I had put my name down to get a retune by R-tech (August 2020) as I had the turbo upgraded to 370bhp spec and waited a retune to get the full potential. However after months of waiting i got fed up ( im calling this Covid Blues and I eventually got a call back in June 2021) and start looking at MK3 VRS. To shorten a long story, I ended up buying a MK3 Superb 280 L&K estate. Main inspiration was "Darth" and I always wanted to try an estate. So I bought the Superb at the back end of February 2021 and inital plans were to go to stage 2 only. Looks like im going to go fully to stage 3 now! In the meanwhile please enjoy of the pics!

Just found this out on Youtube.....fantastic!!!

Plenty of people have written how to change it. I changed my own. Pls do a search on here. I had same issue once DSG stat changed all was fine.

Cheers for the support; I wasn't actually aware of PetRegs 2014.

Lovely looking motor! Welcome to the forums

It certainly is not BS that there are filling station staff that will stop the pump if they see you using a container they think is not a petrol can or is bigger than 10 litres. Someone must have told them not to allow it. https://www.hse.gov.uk/fireandexplosion/petrol-storage-club-association.htm Famously a Government minister talked BS in the past. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-17545258 Weird how official info changes from what it has shown for years other places.

There's nothing 'slightly' about that tread! 😃

First skoda and thus far very happy. Also looks good in silver i think.

Between the turbo and the intercooler.

Me too mate... Yours is smart as flip. Once it's finished and tidied it'll get properly cleaned.. Need a new expansion tank and want to get rid of the bloody stay.. Hydraulic lifters are so much nicer.

Speaking of, according to an Australian environmentalist I know, all EV chargers in Scotland are working at all times, and you are lying about the number not in service.

I had digital cockpit in my peugeot, but was to late to add to my karoq order. However realised then that the i never changed the Peugeot in 2 years to show more than speedo and rpm so not sure i am going to miss it that much

I'm not too sure on what they diagnosed, will open a new post to go into detail, but they found a technical product inspection for 'vibrations of the K2 clutch of the dq200 gearbox' the tpi advised clutcch replacement. I had no codes and I don't think the box itself has been inspected as the symptoms from the tpi matched the symptoms I was having. I think it has had the software mods, but will check again to confirm.

Hello H&S Gaz

@BobTroll - this is all fine. Modern Skodas from about 2005 onwards are all controlled, logged and maintained via information sent along the electronic wires in a faux network called CANBUS. This is the situation for all modern cars. To try and help the situation, we need a scan of your car to see the way it is configured (and how we can proffer assistance). To do that, there are two main tools on the market: ODBEleven and VCDS . ODBEleven can be purchased from £59.99 upwards. VCDS is more expense, PC based and dongle based, but better to use. Its usual to have an ODBEleven in your glovebox to find out what the car is REALLY saying when it throws up an error. I would personally recommend ALL Skoda/VW/Audi/Seat drivers have one.

So just fitted some new style badges. Rear 90 mm part number 5J0853621AUL front 80 mm part number 6V0853621A

Yeah i've had a quick look they really don't cost alot so its almost not, not worth doing just as preventative maintenance.

These are 2 separate components, and indeed do 2 different things. The sensor just measures the temperature (in the case of the engine coolant) and appears to be working correctly. A thermostat open and closes at preset temperatures to control the flow of working fluid through a radiator (which always cools the fluid although the radiator itself can be either a system cooler as here or a space heater like in your living room). I'd say that the dsg thermostat has failed full open. Given that "some guy on the internet" can tell this from your description, you've been to some hopeless garages!

"Combi" is a generic European word for what the UK calls an "estate car" and North America a "station wagon". Touring and Avant (in the cited context) are manufacturer trademarks.

Long Life oil is perfectly fine, as long as you don't stick to long life servicing.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-GENUINE-SKODA-FABIA-2007-2010-REAR-LIGHT-BULB-HOLDERS-/373477960919?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

I had stuff dropping out and finally the radio stopped working and the dipped lights went off, I was stuck for nearly an hour in a traffic snarl up, when it started moving I started the engine first go. I went home and put the battery on charge (Ctek) this took a while as it was very low on charge. Finally charged everything worked properly except the radio which was a seperate fault (and was replaced eventually under warranty). *Advice, use your phone to record error messages that helps if you have warranty problems.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-2011-5DR-REAR-PASSENGER-SIDE-LEFT-TAILLIGHT-BULB-HOLDER-WIRING-LOOM-/224030855532?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Is there a invoice / receipt showing the oil used at the Service. If VW 504 00 / 507 00 so 5w 30 FS III then that is fine. No need to change the oil. If you do want to change the oil then a suction pump is handy to take the oil out of the dip stick tube or just drain the oil in the normal way. Oil filler cap off, oil out, oil filter changed, making sure the oil seal is removed, centre and outer, lube new ones etc etc. Correct quantity of chosen oil used, and taken up to temp and checked then checked again when cold.

Rocker cover, not rocket, but yes, looks like it's built in. Probably the round bit just below where hose 32 attaches here: cylinder head; cylinder head cover - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2015 year] (7zap.com)

Hi Pixels, just had the same diagnosis for my Skoda rapid. How much did a clutch replacement cost? Just put the feelers out with a few Indy's near me to see who has the tooling. Cheers

Well, I'm glad I posted that question as I was completely ignorant of the rulings! Thanks...phew. Well, problem solved, albeit differently from original intention. Odd though that you are able to continue to buy metal, 20 litre Jerry Cans at Halfords https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-equipment/breakdown-essentials/halfords-20l-jerry-can-with-screw-cap-for-fuel---green-476094.html and other stores. Mind you, having a 1200 litre, metal, kerosene tank at home for domestic fuel does rather put it all into perspective. EDIT Ah...further info. You CAN (no pun intended) store petrol in a metal, jerry can, with a capacity of up to 20 litres https://www.hse.gov.uk/fireandexplosion/petrol-storage-club-association.htm "What containers can I use to store petrol? The legislation allows you to store petrol in the following containers: plastic containers storing up to 10 litres metal containers storing up to 20 litres demountable fuel tank up to 30 litres Suitable portable containers are defined in Schedule 2 (para 6) and Schedule 3 of the regulations. UN approved containers are an example of such containers. More detailed information on portable petrol storage containers (PDF) is available." The PDF link is useful. Should say, my can is 20 litres not 25 as originally stated above. Now I feel better

You need to replace whichever one is leaking, they're return hoses.

Tonights sky

andrehj. Thanks for your constructive feedback. For your information, the car has factory fitted rear sensors so they do exist. I was looking for potential assistance, not a sweeping ‘we can’t help you’ comment. I am hoping you don’t speak for the entire Briskoda network

Your 220 version of this cam chain engine is a cracker. At this age it doesn't have a particulate filter but it does have both direct and port fuel injection, meaning petrol still sometimes runs past the inlet valves. This is a good thing as it mitigates carbon build up around inlet valves that direct injection petrol engines can be prone to.

That’s the key to this whole ev thing. I do 300 to 500 miles a week depending what I’m doing. I would fill my Octavia up to the brim and know I could drive around all week and not need to refuel again. Really I only filled up so I didn’t have to stop off and refuel anywhere. This mindset held me back from getting an ev but the reality is, that if you have the ability to charge at home, it’s just not an issue. I charged my Enyaq 60 to 80% last night, I’ve done 130 miles today and got home with 20% left (which it says is 54 more miles). I’ve plugged it in and it will charge overnight back to 80% ready for another approx 150 miles tomorrow. Most days I do 60 to 70 miles so the range is a total non issue. If I did have a particularly long trip tomorrow I’d charge it to 100%.

Just swapped out my Yeti for an Enyaq IV 60, it was delivered on the 3rd Sept. Super happy with it so far.

Me again.... Just to prove I've not been totally bone idle this summer, I have completed an engine bay restoration on my 1969 Mini as well. Although the car was restored "professionally" in 2015, the engine had been simply removed and replaced in the repainted shell, so I have gone over it and replaced the following.. Radiator Waterpump Thermostat Coolant hoses Heater Hoses Fuel Hoses Full Service Painted the block and rocker cover in BMC Mid bronze green New chassis plates And she now looks like this.. Very please with the little thing! Polar opposite of the Fabia, but that's not a bad thing some times? Matt

About time we had an update. A couple of posts ago i said we had finally had the engine running, until the lift pump in the tank decided to hand it's notice in and down tools. Well, you'll be pleased to learn (if not pleased some other fun feeling), that i have fitted a new lift pump, cycled the ignition a few times to bleed the air out of the fuel lines and all is gravy again. As in she runs. Again. I celebrated this momentous task by taking things off the engine - as you do...... The boost pipes i'd lovingly repainted (probably about 4 years ago) in crackle black were no longer doing it for me, i needed some blingly colour in the bay, so I did yet another "thing".. My new local powder coating emporium - Project Powder Coating, Brierley Hill - have done me proud again, stripped and blasted, powder coated in Mint Green (RAL 6029) then coated in Gloss Lacquer Powder, they are mirror smooth, and tough too! The RAL 6029 is the exact match for the Skoda Mint green in the original Badge, and the brake caliper colour, so it ties in well with the SEAT Sport Strut brace in the bay, and the Skoda badge on the engine cover.. Et Voila .... Next jobs are to get the boost pipes connected back up, wheel arch liner in, and then fit the headlights up. It might even be off the axle stands soon and moving about under its own power - last time it did that was September 2016. Time flies when you're having fun as they say

Small update as have now gone back in and put a generic external microphone in place. I opted not to put it behind the trim where factory one is as it's blanked off on driver side and didn't think it would work too well being essentially in a lunchbox (cable routed up directly into head lining behind mics boom so out of sight, across and down behind passenger pillar trim in and across etc. 3 meter cable on mic was perfect with about 20cm to spare (was slightly worried). As everything is black up top I just stuck it on its swivel mount on top of rear view mirror and it's working perfectly on test call after. Also had a play in menus and found a big list of boot screen logos to choose from inc a Skoda one, but can also upload anything I want, so will get a newer Skoda logo I think or a vRS one or something. Then I noticed the menu for steering wheel controls and I can remap any key function to do whatever I want it to, that's pretty nifty.

I just wanted to add my thanks to the OP for this amazing How To. I’ll be tackling this job soon, along with a few others, and wouldn’t have had a clue where to start without this guide. 👍👏