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Crossed no. 155 Whin Rigg off the Wainright list. Looking over towards No. 128 IIlgill Head

Got all new hardware to fit the exhaust. I'll fit a new front lambda while I'm at it as the car was still running one dated 2003, and these can be a pain to change in situ. Just a bit of preventative maintenance. The last job holding me up fitting the exhaust is a couple of snapped manifold studs. I'll have to drill and tap those, which will be fun due to the tight space.

I should add my car is one of those sitting in a compound outside factory and is entering its10th week in compound since build. Forgive me if I am not sorry about future delay’s on New builds but I think I have waited long enough for Skoda to get round to finishing my car which came off the line at beginning of Aug.

I cleaned up and painted the exhaust center mount, and retapped the captive nut threads so I could fit new bolts. These are a pig to remove when the bracket is fitted, so made it easier with the bracket off the car.

This morning sunrise

As there seems to be a lot of people asking questions about this lately, I thought I'd put together a quick guide showing how I fitted my reverse camera to a facelift VRS hatchback. They way that i've fitted this will apply to most models, with the key differences being the size of handle (based upon car model year) and whether hatch or estate (but this is just inside trim differences), there may also be wiring loom differences for earlier cars or none VRS models. I've benefited from info from these forums so hopefully this will be useful to others. I am by no means an expert & I won't be able to answer all of your questions, hopefully others will chip in and can add other info as well. First of all, this is the camera that I ordered for my MY 2017 VRS (Camera A/Handle A): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000230897829.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.40694c4dTEPT93 (link may no longer be valid when you read this so screenshot below) No programming is required for this camera and it supports dynamic reverse guidelines Tools: Trim removal tools would be useful, but otherwise plastic tool that won't mark your car, or screwdrivers or similar with masking tape over the end. A T20 torx head tool is required if you have a hatchback to remove the pulldown boot strap Cable rods are very useful, I couldn't have fitted through the roof lining without. Stereo removal tools unless they come with your camera kit Cable route - I went with an OEM route for my cabling, following existing cables through the roofliner and out to the back as show by the red line below. The camera: The first thing that I did was to check that the boot release switch was working on the new unit - there's no way you want to wire this in and find it is faulty. You'll need to start removing the boot trim to access it. Remove the plastic clips from the lower boot trim- this consists of a few plastic clips which easily pop out with trim remover/screwdriver. There are 8 of these on the hatchback. After that start removing the upper plastic trim, this simply requires forces to release the metal clips. You don't need to remove all of this for now, but it will all need to come off later Remove the lower upholstered trim covering the tailgate. More metal clips - work your way around. You'll also need to remove the pull down strap with the T20 torx head. When this is down you should be able to drop the boot liner which will give access to the boot release handle. This can be awkward to remove, but can be done by pushing in the clip on one on the ends whilst also pushing down on the handle from the inside (ignore the clips along its length) - it should then pop out. Repeat for the other side. Unplug the harness and plug the new handle in - check the release switch works. You can either now push the new handle in until it clips, or leave it out to test the video connection later before fitting. To wire it in Remove the glovebox (open, rock left to right whilst pulling up & you'll hear the bottom clips release. Raise the glovebox lid up and inside the housing and reach in and remove the dampening on the left hand side) Use the stereo release keys to release the multimedia unit. The kit used here comes with a replacement harness that sits between the original one and the media unit & includes the video feed cable. Some people have removed the upper glovebox section to provide more access, be careful not to unplug the airbag connector if you do this. This can be fiddly, but I found the best way was to lie on my back with my head in footwell looking up at the unit from underneath. With the media unit slid fowards this gives access to the harness. It's the large one at the bottom and there is a locking connecting that needs to be pushed backwards to release. Check how it works on your replacement harness. Unplug old harness and plug it in to one end of the new one, push the harness in to the void and plug the new connector block in to the media unit. This took me a while to get it all to fit in. When done you can now test the video feed to the rear camera before your start wiring it in permanently. I took the camera cable over the top of the fusebox cage & out through the side panel I then ran the cable up the A Pillar to the roof lining and all the way to the end. Cable rods were really useful at this point, especially to get around the B pillar , and to go from the end of the roof liner through the cable exit point behind the rubber trunking where the original boot cables are. You can also run the cable in the trim above the sill and work your way back up to the roof lining on the C pillar. When you get to the end of the roof lining you'll need to unclip the rubber gator at the top of the boot so you can get the cable out of the roof liner and in to the boot via this gator. If you install the same way as me you only need to peel the roof liner down a few cm, being careful not to deform or damage it and you'll see the OEM cables behind. Once you've got the cable this far it's a case of feeding it through the rubber gator, up the side of the boot and over to the handle; connect the video cable and tidying up any spare cable. Everything should now be up and running. Retrace your steps to refit your trim. You now have a fully working reverse camera, activated when reverse is selected and with dynamic guidelines. The parking sensor guide now shifts to the left of the screen the same as an OEM reverse camera. I will come back and re-edit this tomorrow and resize pics as it's getting late. I'll tidy up any errors as I see them so please don't jump on me straight away!

Hi all, Thought I'd start a little thread as I change bits and pieces on the car. Bought this 2018 model with 28,500km on the clock. Came from a Revo stage 1 S3 so I'll be looking at boosting power pretty soon as well. Have had it 2 weeks and have the following done so far: New Emblems front and rear Black vrs badge( front off new one to be glued on) Revo full carbon intake including hose and turbo intake New vrs centre caps Footrest to match pedals Rear vrs rubber boot mat Next up windows tinting. Also car needs a full decon and ceramic coating but need the weather to be right for 2 days to get it done as I've no garage in NL

Whoops, didn't mean to send only that haha. I installed the vw repair wires instead of pins i've picked up before. Apparently the pins i used in the start did not make a proper connection with the connector (picture uploaded down below) . After properly connecting everything up, the horn was not bleeping anymore when i put the fuse back in haha. Tommorow im heading to a friend, who has a vcds cable and knows some coding ( retrofitted a newer mfsw into his passat b6, did the goldendot cluster retrofit and similar stuff..) as much as i've gathered information, and by looking at the 6R polo tutorial that does not look hard at all. I will update you all tomorrow about the coding, and maybe even the results. Have a good one

You did, I kicked the wife out lol

PHEV comes in handy in 2 main situations. - Short journeys under 20 miles being done on full electric - Longer journeys with a lot of start/stop traffic or steady cruising. at the point of stop/start traffic the most fuel is used because the engine has to not only idle but produce a lot of torque to get the car it’s initial movement. Taking this over with a high torque motor means the engine doesn’t have to idle at all and doesn’t need to be started till the bulk of the heavy lifting is done. the second point of steady cruising, if you’re sitting at 70mph at 2000rpm the engine is producing next to no torque and it’s just keeping things ticking over, no extra power demand but also no cylinder cut off as that is needed to keep it moving. In this case the motor can take over the 2000rpm movement (no sweat for a motor at all) and the engine is switched off. When power is demanded the engine can fire back up, when speed is reduced the car regen brakes. so if you want it as a all electric car then it’s not for you. Hybrid vehicles have a set criteria to get the most efficient use out of them.

Thats funny we have a Fabia too- though older than yours as its a 2013 bought privately a few months ago for far less than any dealer have been asking this year and even WBAC will give us £500 more than we paid for it. On our Fabia I have stuffed loads of carpet off cuts and underlay from our new hallway under the floor carpet and spare wheel well and copied the Octavia door twin sealing - bought material from ebay and this has transformed the car massively- can drive distances on the motorway now without wanting to get out and walk! My father has the same Fabia as you and doesnt like it having had the old school Fabia which was much better made- he says Skoda have cheapened the whole car and he would love to get another of the old models again.

At least for my 2019 model it`s 3 years without mileage limitation. Pretty sure they follow the official servicing list and so far no Haldex oil change unless I told them so. But good to know, will let them change more often from now on.

Well from my observations I can get back what I paid for my car after using it for a year but to change to a slightly newer model its nearly £4k more, the same upgrade last year was £2k - but it all depends what your looking to change to- cars are what I call an evil necessity for work where I live due to pathetic public transport. Will we own them in the future when the prices for electric cars seem to be going higher and higher- one thing for sure I will be the last person on the planet to go electric as I run all my cars into the ground- last one I had for 6 years only cost me £2500 in terms of repairs and actual car cost-brilliant Citroen C5 which I really miss actually especially the comfortable ride- my 2015 Octavia has the most noise vibration harshness from the suspension I ever experienced on any car- I spent £500 on all sorts of tech to make the car liveable but I wish I bought the newer model which is why I notice the price differences.

The cost was approx 120€. I don’t think they did any software updates, it seems to have had a full dealer service before I got the car so assume any upgrades were done by Skoda in May before I got it. As to oil, it said singular and they said they would get it driving smoothly again and do no more to keep the cost down for me. They also do DSG tuning but I really don’t need anything like that.

Welcome to the forums!

Tbh you'll get frustrated with trying to retro fit a maxi dot display as i'm almost certain nobody has ever done it completely as the facory. If you actually want a display that is modern and tells you what's what in minute detail, you'd be better off sourcing the "Color MFA" mod that originates in Russia of all places. There's a guy on Facebook, user name "aRd Technik" who supplies and installs them, not cheap but much better than 20yr old Maxi Dot tech and actually brings a bit of modernity to the Fabia dash cluster.

My one is an 80IV in Race Blue with grey leather Suite interior, Full Convenience pack, Drive Assist Pack, Driver pack ,Comfort Pack, full parking pack, Climate Pack, 125 kWh charging, to many packs to remember without looking back at order 🙂

Are you seriously going to bother asking for a 1£ battery?

So had the car into Kent Automotive today. They changed the DSG7 speed oil and the difference is remarkable. Gearchanges below 40mph are much smoother. A particular issue was when approaching roundabouts (slowing down) then seeing a gap and increasing speed. Often had a jolt before, now its just so much nicer. They update the Skoda service database as well. Well worth the hour drive to get to Maidstone and they offer great service.

A snap of my Karoq after a wash.

I found out it's an Bluetooth profile called AVRCP (Audio/Video Remote Control Profile). As part of version 1.5 it's possible to browse the data on your phone. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles#Audio/Video_Remote_Control_Profile_(AVRCP) It did start to work when I had Google Podcasts and TuneIn installed which seemed to have support for this. Youtube Music (or at least the free tier) didn't support this.

Motorway have given me a price of up to £23.837 on my 2019 Scout with 30k on the clock!!!

I don't imagine for one second that Skoda would update your service record if they themselves didn't do the service. As for resetting your alarm, in the past I've done a reset for a service warning in my sons 2013 Octavia by searching You tube for a way to do it. It worked, but I don't know if that facilty is available on more recent cars - certainly worth a Google though. Other people will know better than me, but I think a reset is possible using an OBD11 device. If it is, they're cheap enough to buy. Just had search and found this and it looks very similar to how I remember doing it to my sons car. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+reset+service+warning+due+in+2018+skoda+kodiaq&oq=how++to+reset+service+warning+due+in+2018+skoda+kodiaq&aqs=chrome..69i57.32650j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_-EptYdbeHYHXkgWT1azYBg25

Gorgeous scenery!

A dealer would be more than happy to supply the part if it's available anywhere, it may be a special order and you might have to pay for it up front but if it exists they will supply it.

Reading the post and GBP I assumed you were in the UK. Where are you needing the 30-100 mph acceleration? Best look in the Octavia Project section. Plenty members have built quick Octavia.

Plenty Taxi firms and fleets are running EV,s that are only rapid charging and have done for years now, some over millions of miles now across their fleet. It is cells that fail and might need replacing. Now there are specialists in the UK that replace cells or complete batteries. Renault have shown the price of replacing batteries in the UK for a few years now. People with early Nissan Leaf are putting in bigger capacity batteries. There is a thread covering that in the Electric Car section on Briskoda.

Just come out of navigation on the maxidot with folder button on steering wheel ,then set it to display your digital speedo .

Hi All If anyone runs into the same problem with different cars. This starter switch seems to be in all VW group cars. It seems that that the ignition starter switch caused the problem. Part Number 6RA905865A Ignition,starter switch. The copper in it seemed to be worn. The mechanic cleaned it and bent it a little bit back what needed, and now it works again. The heating works as well. They are connected. I`m going to have it changed later when he has the part, and I was happy to drive around at nights if needed for a while until he gets the new.

The crystal face grill uses the same plastic as the headlights, so it should be more than good enough. I've never had a headlight break in over 20 years of driving. I think it's either on or off with and controlled with the headlights. I've ordered my Enyaq with it, but it's not turning up until next year. The horizontal line may come on with the daytime running lights, but someone who already has it will be able to tell you more. With the standard grill, I'd hope some aftermarket options appear over time, but what they end up being is anyone's guess. Maybe just a body colour vinyl wrap of the grill would be good

Said I'd never do it again after my black hatch but these were to good an offer to pass up 3rd one now

You can customise the internal led lighting to your own choice or use some preset ones. I don’t know if this is on all models, but it is on the light and view pack.

Tell me about it! This Briskoda lark is a bad influence.

@Achrys, the 1Z3,5 etc is the model number which can be found in your Dad's car's VIN.

Suggest you do some research on this site. Seems there is an issue around an acceptable level of oil on shocks, sometimes referred to as "mist" . MOT inspectors often list it as advisory. My MK2 had an advisory on one MOT, same inspector over the following years never mentioned it again. It has now done 165K miles still on the original "leaking" shocks. Maybe get a second opinion from another garage before spending money.

My Superb and my mom's Kamiq, little family photo

I have done the same and have the same warning, please let me know if that fixes it, as I will reset mine if thats the only way around it.

And so it begins.........

its hard to hold a phone camera steady after a hard uphill cycle in the dark.. an overcast, juuuuuussst pre dawn, zoomed out to get the extents, of the Clonmel Borough area in its street lit state dawn starting to the East

So you're running them under-inflated.

What extra lights will you use, twin driving lights? The SE Simarud light as fitted to Norwegian Militaerpoliti look good?

Black OEM Air filter boxes like some cars have sitting at the back corner of an engine compartment can get very hot inside. Dark Bonnet closed and sitting in traffic with sun beating down, or before or after a Sprint or Run up a 1/4 mile. Many ways to get intake temps, OBD etc, i use the simplest, a £1.99 Digital Fridge Thermometer works. That is good for reading Cold Air Intake temps, engine compartment temps and many other things like, tyres, brake discs or a passengers temp. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/282048-induction-kit http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/469736-forge-induction I have used them in a dipstick tube to check oil temp. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/461244-help-a-new-2011-vrs-owner/page/4

There is probably a caveat to that of “provided that you’re prepared to wait for it, as if Skoda don’t have the parts, you can hold your breath till you turn Energy Blue but you’re not going to get them”.

Progress is a bit slow as every job a start leads to another job, delaying the one I originally started. I just replaced both petrol tank straps. One was really badly rusted. The other may have cleaned up, but they are not that dear to buy new so I just replaced them

I loved my IQ, but the tailgating was unreal and i was going to end up having a heart attack. The thing was that on twisty roads those that had been sitting up your jacksy when getting along at the speed limit could usually not stay with you. In towns or at junctions etc just an amazing turning circle.

I was just checking my driving license yesterday to see the expiry dates / classes and when points are due to come off. Due to my disability my Motor Cycle entitlement has been limited to a Tricycle. Also there is the Quad Class. Maybe in another few years that will be all i do ride / drive. Hopefully there will be more proper EV's that are Smart Car or Toyota iQ cars around. An iQ EV would be rather good IMO. Car / bigger vehicle Restrictions is Automatics.

Gearbox bolted on and filled with Motul Gear 300 LS, "dog bone", blu painted bracket for gearbox mount

The key flashes to say its still activated when you leave your car after a few minutes your key turns off until you move it. Its a safety feature so theaves cannot read your key and nick your car

Regenerative brakes have been around for a long time in trains and earth movers. They used resistors to burn off the electricity generated so easy to address. Regen is fine at higher speeds but doesn't work well at low speeds. Worked on a mine in SA where they had coal haulers with all up weight of 360 tons, the friction brake could only be used below 5 kph or they burned out. While I was there the regen brake failed on a loaded coal hauler, it took a couple of miles for it to stop. Not something you want to happen in a car.