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What's wrong with using the standard cover plates? OEM part numbers Left cover plate: 6R0615311 Right cover plate: 6R0615312 These cover plates are used with all the versions of front brake discs on the Fabia MK1 including 239mm, 256mm, and 288mm. These listings on autodoc also say that they fit 312mm front brake discs as well. Left cover plate https://www.autodoc.co.uk/topran/8878076 Right cover plate https://www.autodoc.co.uk/topran/8878077 Rather than the diameter of the front discs, it's probably more relevant what part you are bolting the cover plate to. 239mm front brake disc https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2005-453/6/615-615015/ 256mm front brake disc https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2005-453/6/615-615016/ 288mm front brake disc https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2005-453/6/615-615025/ 288mm front brake disc vrs https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2005-453/6/615-615026/

I just drove my Enyaq from Livingston to Milton Keynes. 360 miles 2 stops, Gretna where I needed the loo, and Leeds where I needed lunch. Total cost £18. Total mileage at 45p per mile was roughly £150. For me, electric had already replaced petrol. This is using the smaller battery enyaq not the one with the long range.

"Help" is a 1965 song by The Beatles. More seriously, it's likely that the individual bulbs have blown.

A nice thursday evening in leeds with a beer

Snapped from the landing window at 7 a.m. this morning.........

Views from Portpatrick...

Also check out any insurance issues before you take the plunge.

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A few from this evening.....

350 odd miles knocked back like a dream in the Fabia (besides nearly running out of petrol) involving a run to Portpatrick, Stranraer, and other associated places.

Getting close to that 100k

Bugger 🙄 :

I do not understand your logic about the wheels. Bigger wheels mean lower profile tyres and less depth in the sidewalls and less comfort.

Did they need to write the article? Was it not already blindingly obvious to people?

I dunno, but any further input here is probably superfluous.

5L0 853 577 for the white clips 5L0 853 573 for the black clips Both around a quid each

Having persevered and taken a few apart I would say not a chance in hell. If you take it apart to be sure you will break an intact seal and have more than a good chance of creating a leak when you try to reseal it. That isn't water damage but oxidisation from ambient moisture like any other aluminium underbonnet part.

It is more efficient for nearly all users and situations! But in any case, you can feel good about reducing your NOx, CO2 and particulate emissions! Without re-opening the whole topic, there are many situations where the ECU decides to not stop the engine - it is smarter than a lot of people realise, but errs on the side of caution.

I believe every order that is pending from july 21 on will be probably arround week 10 2022

Powerpass is the Skoda offer, the VW WeCharge card is a much poorer deal. To get the best rate of 25p you have to pay a £9.99/m subscription. The free offer is 46p at Ionity - which is now looking not so shabby as other providers have increased their tariffs. Sorry for going a little off topic...

I hate to sound like Captain Obvious but why don't you just order a set of shields from a TT instead of yet another different VAG platform, at least the TT definitely has the same hub carrier which is why the brakes from it fit the Fabia.

Changes the weight of the steering, as far as I know.

I’m no expert, just a guy on a forum, but I would say it is a combination of a few things, but mainly the colder weather. In 3 weeks, how many miles has it done, with how many different drivers ? How many charges have you done, and how many were to 100% ? I’m not asking for the answers but I think, from what I’ve read, they will all be affecting the displayed range. I guess with your car being new there is a lot going on for the battery management system especially as the UK temperatures fell rapidly and have now gone up again. I believe the range calculation is mostly based on the energy use/driving style over the previous 60 miles. The 80% charge range you are seeing is very similar to mine, if that’s any reassurance that it isn’t a fault. Ive found the real world figures given on ev database to be fairly accurate. https://ev-database.uk/car/1279/Skoda-Enyaq-iV-60

This talk about the Canton made me listen to mine more critically this week. I realized that what I notice the most, and appreciate, is the speaker in the centre of the dashboard, bouncing up against the windscreen. That is what provides the most clarity to me, just as a central speaker does in a typical TV sound setup. I went back to the articles and brochures and came up with these: Review of the standard 8-speaker setup which also mentions the Canton: https://totallyev.net/skoda-octavia-iv-estate-audio-review-canton-system/ German brochure for Canton that seems to only offer 10 speakers: https://www.canton.de/en/skoda-en The Australian brochure and others describe it as having 12 speakers: (attached)

Rieger sideskirts on!

Got some time to kill so I decided to sit down Ayr shore in the car with a Morrisons Sandwich with this gorgeous view of the Isle of Arran.

Forget the foregoing, I hadn't realised it was the reservoir, even if the breather was blocked that sort of pressure would not build up. sounds like you will be able to make a no cost repair.

The top half is the reservoir, the bottom half is the pump, you need to remove the entire assembly, and refit one to the other correctly and use a new clip to secure it unless the clip can be reused.

It will lose the memory for the radio stations every time you remove the key if you leave it like that.

I changed mine a long time ago to Osram LED lights, the interior lights are not on the bulb monitoring system. Think I used a Phillips LED bulb in the boot. They are all much better. Edit: I first used Halfords LED lights but for some reason they kept blowing a fuse so I took them back.

Check in few days, after some miles

So I been away for quiet some time. Things I have done to the car I have put a turbo blanket on from forge motor sport on its a nightmare to fit for such a simple bit of kit no massive improvements in prefromance just stops heat sink. I have also just had a stage one custom map done to the car it had a healthy start point making 250bhp after mapping it made 312 which is a good improvement.The car feels great just saving up for the dsg to get done next.

Hi Kitchens Editing your RAC diagnosis and removing duplicates etc leaves the following fault codes: 18255,Fault codes in ABS controller U112300,Failure of the frame CAN bus 03839,Rpm sensor, left front; signal fault 00283,Front left wheel speed sensor 00668,+30 voltage 01325,Tyre pressure monitoring Multiple warnings/fault codes are often due to the common cause of a failing battery, but you have checked that. I assume the 12.8 V was off load, one would expect nearer 13.5 to 14.0 V when being charged. Previous forum posts also suggest that the loss of an ABS sensor signal can upset multiple systems. However, it's interesting that you are getting DTC 00668, which suggests that the +12V supply to the ABS unit may have a problem. The code 30 means it is derived directly from the battery, i.e. not via the ignition switch. Even if the battery is OK, there could be a poor connection / loose fuse etc in the supply to the ABS unit, causing a more localised loss of voltage. This may be exacerbated when the ABS unit is actively reducing the brake line pressure, when its current consumption rises as its internal solenoids come into play. More current will of course cause more voltage drop in any poor connection. I suggest you check any fuses and cables in the supply line from the battery to the ABS, to eliminate the possibility of trouble here. However, be aware that DTC 00668 can also be logged in cold weather if the (possibly slightly tired) battery voltage dips too low when cranking

i use an I-pod nano 5G for music. Use it on the push bike and motorbike, and generally. Don't want to use a phone for music as a) memory not big enough and b) why drain the battery ? It worked fine in my 2018 superb thro the USB aux input - but "device not recognised" in my 2021 superb IV. V annoying - to the point of would have seriously considered ano car if i had known it wouldn't work. searching this forum now for best alternative options.

Hi Those ECU casings normally have a good elastomer seal. However, the mating multi-pin connectors on the loom may not be quite as well sealed. No harm in easing one off if it's accessible, and inspecting the state of the pins. Take care putting it back that none of the pins get bent.

I agree with J.R. defo aluminium oxidation on the cooling fins, the casing acting as a heatsink for the electronics situated in the casing, it totally normal where the aluminium has been exposed. Unless it looks like its been out before and has signs of copious amounts of silicone in an attempt to reseal I'd leave well alone, its unlikely that water ingress has happened if its still factory sealed. Just my opinion.🙂

Without seeing the scans, it's impossible to know as it'll depends how your car is configured...

Me too 👍

Ah nice, I'll go have a read then!

Lasting how long? I mean, for me a motorway toilet stop normally takes about 15 minutes from park car through visit toilet and shop to leaving car park.

Cold & then even colder makes such a difference. Pre warming helps things.

Yes. I think it may well be a symptom in that it was knocked loose by the rough running rather than the cause of same. Beyond that, I think you may well need a fault code to diagnose the actual issue. Kudos on including everything else though.

The OBD plug is fine it only has two or three pins, pin4 for ground, pin5 for signal,pin16 for power supply it affects nothing else.

At least it hasn`t got touch screen heating and ventilation like Octavia IV. Maybe VAG have learnt to "if it aint broken dont fix (change) it!"

I'll throw my 2 cents in here. With my 312s they do have proper sized heat shields but they're off some form of passat and were made fit. I had a mechanic fit them and left off new 288mm heat shields, he wasnt happy to fit them so kept them aside and put ones he found would work on. Would have just kept the original heat shields but they were stone rotten so needed changing anyway. Still have the originals and the ones I bought sitting in a box of 288mm brake bits.

That makes me think of the alternator control wires as @Wino cites.

Just changed over from a 2018 Superb III Greenline SE L Executive Estate to an Enyaq iv60 Loft. They are both lease cars, so I didn't get to try either of them out before ordering, I just had to use the Skoda website to make decisions (at the time I made the decision to get an Enyaq, press reviews had not started to come through). I thought I would list a few first thoughts after one day of the new car, so that anyone else making a similar change is better informed. My first impression is that the Enyaq is quiet, quick off the mark and does what I need. I didn't specify any driver assist packages as they seemed over-priced. Time will tell if I really miss the adaptive cruise on the Superb. I specified the climate pack plus (heated windscreen is a must for me) and convenience std options. I have found it a bit difficult to work out how to switch on the heated screen (seems to be via the air conditioning system), but I enjoyed jumping into a preheated car for my morning commute by setting up the schedule. I went for the parking pack (rear camera is necessary as the rear window is high up), panoramic roof (family like it), the heat pump (Scotland, duh!), 19" Regulus Anthracite alloy wheels and the fast charging (although there doesn't seem to be much supply over 50kW just yet, I'm hoping there will be). However, the Superb is definitely the nicer car to be in, and some of the "simply clever" touches, like the boot lamp that can be removed and used as a torch, are missing from the Enyaq. The luggage cubby holes in the Superb are closed with flaps to make them neat, but the Enyaq's are open so everyone can see how messy you are when accessing the boot. I also reckon the storage capacity will be much lower without the little doors as I used to cram stuff in. There is more room in the Superb too, I have grown-up children over 6 foot tall, but they can still be fitted into the Enyaq. The boot space is just as wide in the Enyaq as it is in the Superb, but about 12cm shorter in length. The leather seats in the Superb seem softer; due to an ordering mix up, I got Loft seats instead of Suite ones but I expect I'll get used to them.

Unfortunately (as far as I can tell) that video only demonstrates the standard sound system. It'd be nice to hear a Canton system with the same mic setup and the same song for comparison.

3rd photo showing a good example of a decomposed bumpstop which will lead to premature spring & damper failure as well as giving a very harsh ride when carrying loads or rear seat passengers.

Hi guys, Damn dumpers, simply design flaw. I went crazy and even removed everything from my trunk, and rattling noise was still there. Even though that there might be issue with hydraulic door lifters plastic shield, but at the end problem was definitely dampers. So I SOLVED the problem by following advice in this topic and applied two felt pads (left and right) and voila, rattling noise disappeared:)