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Well it arrived this morning, and has had its first wash (dont judge, it was dirty 🤣 ). Some changes it seems. It now has virtual pedal, which is interesting when washing the lower rear bumper and the boot opens in your face. The remote child lock button is not there (not desperate). Annoyingly it didnt come with a Type 2, 3 pin charger, just the type 2 - type 2 cable. This is a pain in the arse, as my wall box isnt being installed until February. Will get some more pictures at some point.

@Ecomatt , @KenONeill, @PipH, @nta16, @Nogrille, @PetrolDave, @ords, M-E-R-R-Y- C-H-R-I-S-T-M-A-S all and many thanks for your contributions to my intermittent and head scratching problem. The main plug behind the carpet in the passenger footwell (the largest of the three) was removed to connect up the towbar loom three years ago. Apparently the holding clip was broken at the time and after three years it has jogged loose. The plug is now held in with hot glue so hopefully all will be well. What a saga!

I wish you luck with your quest Nigel, you are going to need it. There was no offence taken nor aggression on my part.

Was you parked with the car or exhaust tail pipe near a wall or building as the exhaust sounded a little as if there could be a minor blow or it may be that is just the normal sound and the recording and playback may it sound different, or it is just me and my ears. For checking out for this thread fair enough but about 5-10 seconds after starting to check all is normal you want to drive off as you are wasting fuel and not getting the systems running to where they normally operate, you want the warm up and driving to be brisk to get to full operating temperature as soon as possible with reasoned use, not going like a bat of of hell but also not dawdling and labouring the car.

Hi All, So in the end it was £240 for rear discs and pads. Sadly, the handbrake caliper and cables all needed replacement as well, so the total cost was £402. Plus side is a year's MOT and vastly improved brakes and handbrake.

Neat idea, thanks for sharing.

Of course- it's cheaper. As is no doubt the "virtual cockpit" compared to analogue dials, but we digress. Back on topic I tested the matrix lights. The short version is "turn them onto automatic and enjoy the best lights you are likely to have had on any car". They work perfectly (I assume- I didn't get flashed once, but was expecting it every time) In terms of the "cornering" function on the old lights - forget it. It pales into insignificance compared to these new lights. I will be honest, I didn't read too much into these lights when ordering my car. I am pleasantly surprised.

You can always ask the selling dealer. It is illegal for any seller to lie, although very unlikely to volunteer any negative information. Another thing you can ask for is full service and repair history, and any work done should show up. If a main dealer (who has access to service history) says not available then walk away as they are trying to hide it. The Government tax checker shows first registered November 2020, and is currently taxed until Nov 2022. But it also shows a logbook was updated 6 Dec (fortnight ago). Quite odd for a car to change hands at exactly one year old

Good luck with expecting them to remove a perfectly good screen that they have already (supposedly) refitted once and replacing it with an OEM one because your ticket clip does not grip. For all the time that you have spent on this returning the vehicle, contacting Skoda & Pilkington (neither of which want to be spending their time with matters like this), posting on here etc you could have spent 3 minutes to remove the clip, bend it using a hot air gun or after submerging in boiling water and refitting it. It reminds me of an old insurance company advert "We won't make a drama out of a crisis!" except this is no crisis.

I bought an Octavia 1 with 188000 miles on the clock and took it up to 325000 miles over 15 years without any problems whatsoever let alone a niggle every month, in that time aside from very extended oil & filter changes & brake linings I had to replace the coolant temp sensor and the alternator brush pack, neither of which prevented the vehicle operating, I simply noticed anomolies while driving, it could have been a niggle to someone who cannot diagnose. The cam belt was not even changed till 250000 miles, belt alone, not kit, waterpump, pulleys etc, cost £8. In my oipinion the 105hp PD engine is the most bulletproof of the lot, later cars are more complicated and less reliable than the earlier models, I have had to do lots of work on my Yeti that never needed doing on the Octavias at 3 times the mileage. Buying a newer lower mileage vehicle is not always the best idea, if the OP's car has given him 40K miles in a year trouble free its worth him trying to resolve the coolant problem, the first step is to actually say what it is.

Made a start on rear brakes/suspension swapped it all over as it’s nearly seven years newer. hub/bearing, backing plate shoes etc. fitted some darkside 12mm axle spacers I brought a while back, and fitted up one side with the bilsteins and Eibach springs, test fit the wheel over the brakes it is tight but a few mm clearance from the wheel weights to caliper. I wonder if they do slimline wheel weights. It does turn without catching anywhere which is good

Don't take this the wrong way but I'm amazed, having had the new screen fitted twice already you're contemplating having it done a third time for the sake of a ticket holder. If the screen is good then I'd spend a quid in a stick on ticket holder from eBay. I've used them for years in various cars and they work equally well if not better. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185193929387?hash=item2b1e6b1aab:g:3GYAAOSwgwhfGGjB

End of topic? The OP seems to have a solution that is acceptable.

Just for information. I have a Octavia s with only front electric windows. The switch started playing up especially in damp conditions, so i decided to change the switch. The part number for my car is 5E0959858A. When i was looking for these switches, they were nearly twice the price of 5G0959858D - which are used in the Golf mk 7. They are exactly the same and i have fitted the Golf switch to my Octavia and all works well, indeed he one touch functions are now working as well.

For peace of mind , and considering you can get 2 for less than £10, I would still put the keys in a faraday pouch when in the house.

I'm not sure anyone was insulting ?!? We are all here trying to help each other. In fact the only insult was for you to call other (unspecified) forum members/helpers "Numpties".

Hi recently purchased a 2.0 diesel Kodiaq SE L DSG 2 wheel drive 7 seats JUNE 2018. 35k mileage. how soon should I look at changing cam belt & water pump ? DSG box requires oil changed at 40k mileage. it’s a stunning vehicle. Huge space comfortable and smooth. Driven sensibly returns some great mpg for a big car.

I don't think Pilkingtons actually fit the windscreen. They're just manufacturers of glass.

My bugbear is the trend for rear indicators to have clear glass and be microscopically small hidden amongst rear lights that look like the Starship Enterprise, the kind of indicators that cops are all over 16 year olds for if they have fitted them to their mopeds, and with good reason, but then they drive home off shift in something even worse! Today I saw a stupid front indicator on a small hatchback, Vauxhall, maybe Renault, it surrounded the whole headlight unit, at least it couldn't be missed, as I passed the vehicle (it was oncoming) I said to myself I bet you can't even see the rear indicator, - I wasn't dissapointed. They must employ 12 year olds in the styling department or perhaps they realise that modern parents having singularly failed to instill any respect or discipline in their offspring are desperate to gain their approval when they buy a new car? There are loads of car ads showing entitled kids approving or not of their parents vehicles on the school run, perhaps they are indeed being "simply clever"

I don't have a clip because my Mk1 is about as advanced as an abacus... plus it was never fitted. I don't know who manufactured the screen and it's a wee bit dark and wet for me to check at this moment in time. I've bought one of those clip-on doo-dads that @skomaz posted a link to in the hopes that it'll help me. Sorry that I couldn't be of more help.

Not really, my wife would have said if there was actually a blow and how far forward or back it was - and the colour of the wall. 🤣 She identifies when things like brakes, exhaust, engine and wheel bearings are getting noisy, decades of running old over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics". Many years of listen to powerful hi-fi set ups in a small room probably didn't help my hearing either.

Yes indeed!😊 Though I could have saved myself a load of grief had I changed the tail light bulbs in the 1st place! Instead of assuming I'd made a mistake with the tow bar wiring and stripped the boot lining out for a 2nd time and disconnected all the connections I made.

Well, the twice my car was serviced by a Skoda dealer, I found a part bottle of VAG washer fluid in the boot.

When I worked for Scania I changed cars every 3 months due to being on the road everyday. We basically had a choice of any VAG car upto X value then we would pay something daft like £7 a month per £1k over it. The higher up the tree the higher your base limit. The change criteria was 6 months or 7500 miles, whatever came first. It is one of the ways of getting decent used stock around the dealer networks.

So many VW Finance / Group owned vehicles around. There have been lockdowns. Ex Management as they like to use the term, which can be a Dealerships employee, relative of an employee, long / short termer to the media / courtesy car etc etc etc. Funnily all of above might never be aware of the faults that non 'perk from VW' drivers notice and want fixed. The Warranty work / TPI / Service Campaign history is important to see.

It could be ex-rental. Not especially unusual for them to be moved on after 12 months. The logbook should reveal if this is the case.

Ooh, I don't know about that. I don't think I'll do much more than a colour coded badge on the outside. It's not as if you can remap it (yet), or even really use vagcom to do anything interesting (my dongle does not work with current cars either). I'd like to put a transparent blue wrap over the crystal face, but that's just asking to get pulled over.

Got round to doing this job today. What a FTFTBBW (far too fiddly to be bothered with!) I used pipe cleaners and IPA. I found that the front of the lens was as bad as the back. Had to get a bendy pipe cleaner and wound a few together to get the length and rigidity (f’nar) to get through a tiny gap in the side to access the front of the lens. A bit like keyhole surgery wearing boxing gloves. Made a huge difference. Can’t wait for a test drive to see what it’s like.

yes this is my fear, you could wait the biggest part of a year, then be told they are gonna remove say the digital dash, the electric boot , radar cruise etc take it or leave it prices have already increased and will probably increase again, but most people will still get there car at the price they signed for, skoda almost certainly know this , so to avoid making a loss on a car, they might start removing things and use the model year change to do it, it's effectively the same as a price increase

It was exactly this issue, thank you so much!

Such a wierd comment. Shouldn't you be the one offering an apology rather than the person accepting it? Having read this thread again, I'm at a loss who those insulting numpties were.

That’s great, thanks. These forums always come to My rescue. I’ll give it a go in a couple of days weather permitting. Thanks for the advice Dunk

There is no spring behind the pedal to fall out in the way you describe, there is a coil spring inside a plunger which acts on a cam to give control loading, in the first 50% of the stroke it will return the pedal to the top position, in the bottom 50% it gives assistance, if there is no fluid pressure acting on the piston it will push the pedal to the floor and hold it there. Nobody has asked what gearbox the OP has, if its a 5 speed with external slave cylinder then its not a gearbox out clutch replacement job, if its a 6 speed with concentric slave cylinder then it is. Nobody has suggested checking the master cylinder, they can and do fail, there is a powerfull magnet that operates a reed switch to tell the ECU that the pedal has been depressed, this gather abrasive metallic clag, from where I know not but it can score the cylinder also the piston pressure seal can fail without any leakage. 9 times out of 10 is the O ring on the later 2 piece concentric slave cylinder becoming abraded through vibration and allowing air to enter the system without ever leaking a drop of fluid, the physics of it are beyond me because it is always under hydrostatic pressure but that is the failure point. Clucth action can be restored simpy by opening the bleed nipple and closing it as soon as fluid dribbles out, you dont even need a spanner, it is done by hand, you will probably find the pedal action iffy after some while, whatever you do never lift the pedal up by hand or with your foot, that will 100% bring in air through the O ring.

Still not working for me, so I'll throw a stab in the dark - Have a look under the back of the car and see if your exhaust heat shield has come loose.

My setup is identical. I know it is possible, but the companies that do so ask a significant sum for it. I have been quoted 900 euro for just the coding, not included the additional steeringwheel hardware. Have a few local guys looking into it as well, will let you know when they get back to me.

I think the aerial on the roof is only for the GPS. The radio aerial is in the rear window.

Thank you! . I started one, but i asked here cos no one told the resolve and I was thinking that maybe someone has a resolve. Thank you!

Updating the maps would not cure this fault as it is the gps aerial. there are cheap fixes and a plethora of threads here about it. use the search function.

Thanks Xman, I will have a fresh look at it in early January. I might remove the rocker cover and drill a 10 mm hole bang in the centre of the oil filler neck obstruction so that a normal sized funnel would fit. That would solve the problem I think or use my electric oil pump and refill through the dip stick hole. I'll let you all know how I get on and I'll include a few pics for you. I'm working in Dubdee today so I'm going to pop into the VW workshop and ask the techs there how they do it. I'm working at Mazda which is right next door and oddly Mazda and VW share the same workshop. I will report back later this evening hopefully with news....

Well, I look at it from this angle... My unfinished Octavia is MY22 and there were no changes to the equipment for Slovenian market between MY21 and MY22, so there is no reason to leave out any eq. And they have until end of June 2022 until MY changes again 😂

I think most VAG engines have had this design for several years now. First cover around the open oil filler with a couple of layers of absorbent kitchen paper towel to catch any accidental spills. Use an empty one litre oil bottle. Decant 0.75 litre from the 4 or 5 litre container into the empty 1 litre bottle ( empty castrol edge 1 litre bottles have a nice wide opening ) then its dead easy to get the bottle neck close over the filler opening and slowly fill without surging. Obviously aim at the open part not covered by the plastic splash back, and take your time. Provided you don't rush it, even if oil goes over the plastic guard, it will run down into the engine without overflowing and spilling. How you hold the bottle is important too, twist the bottle round and keep the neck of the bottle high, to eliminate possibility of oil gulping out. Repeat, keeping tally of the total poured. Stop when you're about a litre short, check the dipstick, and add a bit at a time, checking and stop when you're half way up the hatched area on the stick. Close the filler. Start and run the engine to fill the oil filter etc for about a couple of minutes. Stop the engine and give it a couple of minutes then recheck dipstick, topping up to half way. Then go for a run to heat the engine up , park on the level, stop the engine, and after 5 minutes recheck the oil level and top up as necessary. Do not go above the hatched area. I personally prefer to keep the oil level about 3/4 up the hatched area. Especially if the engine has been installed on the p!ss as seems to be common practice in Skoda. Don't attempt to fill straight from a 4 or 5 litre container, the oil will inevitably surge out uncontrollably as air gulps back into the container. And its too heavy to hold steadily. Don't think a funnel would help at all as it can't go very far into the filler so you'd have to hold it with one hand, recipe for disaster!

Is the wiring for the mirror indicators just a case of connecting to the plug for the wing repeaters? Does it matter that the mirror indicators are LED or is that not an issue? When will you be doing the front brakes? If you have the front suspension leg and brakes as a complete unit can you trial fit one of the Aurigas 15" wheels? If it fits no problem I'll start searching for the brake parts for my car.

I seem to remember you hold the key near the start stop button then press it. Mine did the same but my kessy car key was faulty full stop. I got a quote from the main dealer 380 to replace and recode but managed to find a reliable chap to repair it for 40 quid.

On checking you are indeed correct! 8 and not 6 as I'd thougth. I had not checked very well and didn't realise that the rear fog light bulbs were also dual function. All 8 bulbs were working correctly. Though I only change the 6 bulbs I mentioned in my last post, which has turned the warning light off. I've also disconnected all the tow-bar wiring, which I now need to re-connect, which I had connected correctly.

I can thoroughly recommend a thicker rear anti-roll bar. It really sorts out the Roly polyness! It's a lot more responsive to steering inputs too. Don't get me wrong, it doesn't turn it into a BMW M5 but for all it cost I think a bargain. FYI: all 2wd MK7 Golf upgrade ARBs should fit the MK3. Easier to find than Superb specific

And this is how it is looked like from inside GDR_indicator_inside.mp4

@erikoctaviaThat's actually me. Not happy with the build quality tbh. It looks very cheap! And the customer service is close the worst! The light is not bad though. It is completely visible from the back and fairly visible from inside. I managed to install them today, please see the attached videos! GRD_indicator.mp4

At 1/4 of your mileage my car with the same engine as yours would not pull the skin off a rice pudding, I was driven to action when the engine started shuddering on shutdown, a sign that the inlet tract and butterfly was clogged with clag from the excess of EGR after the emissions fix. It was indeed totally clagged up and had made the vehicle totally asthmatic, it was transformed after carefull cleaning of the throttle body and inlet tract. I then fitted an EGR emulator/simulator to stop any recycling of the gases so it won't crud up again, I also had a remap to an alleged 184hp which is probably the standard factory 170 hp map, it now has the mid range overtaking punch that it always lacked. Given your high mileage you should definitely have a look and declag its respiratory tract if needed.

Yes Phil-E, I've suddenly got interested in that Hancock Kinergy 4S2, following this week's Autoexpress magazine, where it came top out of 8 all-weather tyres. It wasn't included in this year's 'Tyre Reviews' AW test but did well, coming 2nd in their 2020 AW review, summarized there as a hugely impressive tyre with no real weakness. My particularly emphasis is for noise & ride which you comment on favourably & the tyre did very well for ride in the 2020 review, but noise was average. However this week's Autoexpress notes that the tyre has been developing all the time and it was now the quietest on smooth tarmac - rather better than the Goodyear Vector Gen3 whereas in 2020 'twas the other way round. However noise on rough surfaces, sharp ridges etc., a much more annoying noise aspect for me, wasn't commented on by Autoexpress - let's face it, most tyres are pretty quiet on smooth tarmac, including my current Turanzas. https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2020-Tyre-Reviews-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm Other apects from an average snow rating in 2020, Autoexpress reckon it's developed into a really good tyre for snow. It was always good in the wet, probably the most important safety aspect for me down here in the SE and is the best for aquaplaning. Dry weather performance remains average, but I don't go racing around these days. Rolling resistance is not that good, leading to 3% worse fuel economy than the best Pirelli, but hardly a significant cost penalty. Wear is probably not a strong point either. It's been off my radar up to now, but all-in-all it could now be top choice for my next set of tyres. Strangely the Autoexpress review this week didn't include the new new Michelin X Climate 2.

. I don't know how much help this is likely to be, but here goes anyway. I fitted a set of 225/45 R17 Quatrac Pros to my previous car (a 2016 Audi A3 2.0TFSI 190) about 30 months after getting it. Sod's law that in the subsequent eighteen months the weather never turned completely pants so I can't report on what they were like in snow or on ice. In most normal driving, I reckon you'd be hard pressed to notice any appreciable difference between the Quatracs and the Bridgestone summers that the car came with. There are a couple of exceptions, though I wouldn't pretend to know whether they'd be enough to colour your choice. The dry weather braking was noticeably poorer than the summers, though I think you might expect that. The braking distances were appreciably longer, and I didn't much care for the squirminess that came with it. I guess you'd get used to that, but I was left with a lingering feeling that in proper emergency braking (like nose on the steering wheel ABS-hammering type braking) that you might end up clobbering whatever it was you were trying to avoid. I didn't get the same feeling in the wet, FWIW, and they did feel more secure in extreme wet weather on the motorway than the Bridgestone summers ever did. Would I get them again? I dunno. If we lived somewhere that was more prone to properly poor weather and if we depended on the car to get to work - which we don't - then I would. Otherwise a bit of a curate's egg. Good in parts, not so good in others. If the price differential was greater still it'd be harder to justify. Told you it might not be much use... .