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Hello everybody. I am from Spain. Today starts the waiting period for my Octavia iV. Many months ahead. Dealer told me October but I am ready to wait till 1Q 2023. This is crazy.. I hope this period will finally be shorter. It is great to have this forum to make this waiting easier.

We are now offering a genuine reversing camera retrofit for the Skoda Octavia iV You can find more information here https://eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk/collections/skoda-octavia-iv-2021/products/octavia-iv-reversing-camera Please don't hesitate to ask any questions!

I have reported many faults to the dealer over the year i have had the car. After the car started the SOS problem i contacted VWFS. I have a personal lease with them. I got through to the complaints department and listed the many faults i have encountered over the year. VWFS gave me 2 options 1) Immediately reject the car but keep the car till i arranged another from any brand. 2) Stay with the car till the 31st March when the fabled fix all comes out. They also offered a goodwill payment of £xx. I negotiated a higher payment. They said if the fix doesnt happen or the car cant be fixed its back to option 1 So i took option 2 as the market is way up on price and the waiting lists are huge.

The new unit will require the parameters coding to correspond with the equipment fitted to your vehicle, normally this is done by saving or copying the coding of your old unit. It sounds like your garage has neither the means (VCDS or similar) or the competence to do this.

A Ford Escort Cosworth at the 2021 Cambrian Rally.

I'll try to make more chargers in a couple of weeks.. It would be interesting to compare my version with the original.

... more like non-removable external memory 😚

Not so - with an Amundsen there is no internal memory, the maps are read directly from the SD card which must be present at all times. The Columbus does have an internal HDD where the maps are stored.

Hi Stubod I had this effect sometimes on the clutch of a 10 year old Audi A3 some years ago. As said above, there is an "over centre" spring as part of the pedal mechanism - a bit like a giant version of the ones used in household light switch dollies. This goes from opposing downward movement when the pedal is high, through a neutral position when the pedal is part way down and then progressively assists downward movement when the pedal is more fully down. I think the idea is that it gives a lighter clutch action. Around the mid position, the slightest change in friction can make the difference between the pedal returning or not, so lubrication might just help at the moment. I found that temperature and the amount of recent clutch use also played a part, and after a long motorway run without changing gear things were worse. I got practiced al lifting it with my foot, but it was unnerving. Fortunately it was behaving itself the day I sold the car to buy a Yeti !

I got confirmation that mine was built yesterday. Just waiting to see if that means built built, or half built and now waiting on a line. Hopefully it’s the first scenario and it’ll be here shortly. I’ve asked for collection in March.

Colourful start to the day

The lights come on as a bulb and system check - in most cases the system check can be done straight away so they go out. But the engine can't be checked until it's running, so the ECS light can't go out until the engine is running. So perfectly normal and correct behaviour.

Ordered my Skoda Karoq 4x4 diesel Style on June 3rd received on January 27th. Finally, I got my car. Good luck to everyone.

Swimming was completed by 8pm. 32 (ish) all in. Beginning to get back into the swing of things again. I feel like my lung capacity is improving vastly as a result too.

It is amazing how screen wash that is not produced using the Tears of an angel will spray from fan nozzles and does not invalidate a VW Group Manufacturers Warranty.

Goodby old VRS, hello new VRS - first impressions, brilliant - a big step up!

The fronts are not as flush as the rears. Since I lowered my car, the fronts run at -1.2 degree, which are a bit off OE alignment spec range. I believe it would be flush if you could keep the front alignment within spec.

The clutch hydraulic system uses the brake fluid reservoir but the take off port is higher up so the brakes will never be affected even by a complete fluid loss in the clutch hydraulics.

Thanks - you were correct, lights were on auto setting during daylight so not fully on - as soon as I tested them when it was dark, the led washers worked as expected - the reason I had never spotted this before was because somehow it looks like I had previously disabled them via Carista - they are now enabled again via Carista and working again

Oh, apologies then, they must've "improved it worse".

Good luck @almarote. Hoping for 2022 for you. Worth waiting for 👍

Info is available a few pages back, but it’s a VRS ordered first week in august. Canton, ACC, family and winter packs and a few other bits.

I read the thread title as "boot leaking VRS Mk2" - maybe time for an eye test, methinks.

I believe the rears only have 2 variants 272/280 - vented rears everything else - solid rears I may be wrong so wait for someone else to clarify.

Bicarbonate is too soft to have any effect on glass you need as I stated before Jewellers rouge

I'll give it some elbow grease first. I just didn't want to make things worse. Sometimes a break can be a blessing in disguise. A Peugeot wasn't sealed at bottom properly from the factory , the windscreen fitter brought it to our attention. Windscreen didn't fog up as much thereafter during driving in rain. Even worse was a Ford Focus that developed wet front floor carpet when parked downhill. Windscreen replaced under warranty.

My understanding is that the usage until the fault was first reported can be deducted, any time since shouldn’t be deducted if fault is still not fixed. Of course, some may try and pull a fast one, and use date of return, or later attempt at same fix. Which it is why it is important to have evidence of first notification date and insist on any usage deduction stopping on this date.

I did try to find out, minefield. Sony in there somewhere too. Lots of older topics on VWVortex. All the piccies, long since disappeared.

Simplest is ask the Dealership Dealer Principle by email if the Service Plan you bought for £199 requires the car to be on a Fixed Service Regime & then the reply will be in writing and from a member of staff that should know and that later the Dealers Owners can not say we got rid of them, they were new here. Even if they do.

When I get it I will drop you a PM - car is being delivered to us on Saturday. I do remember the option cost was (I thought) ridiculously high at around £200, especially given there is a USB port right there and you can buy decent off the shelf wireless chargers for £20 or so, so not sure how much I would be willing to spend on it.

HTH

Get you plan in writing from who sold you it. ie. What is not included. (That is what they need to be giving otherwise they might be mis-selling and some are.) Is there a Pollen Filter change included Year 2? An Air Filter at 4 years / 40,000. Spark Plugs, DSG Oil change. What about missed stuff due at year 3 if no Service then. If a Petrol TSI or Diesel TDI then it does just need 2 oil changes in 4 years if under 40,000 miles is covered. IF LEFT SET ON VARIABLE SERVICING AS YOUR HAS BEEN. (A Hybrid needs more like 4 oil changes in 40,000 miles.) Not much done year 2 or 4, but you would want the Year 3 stuff doing. ? So it it servicing in your plan year 2 & 4 or just year 1 /9,400-10,000 miles and year 2 /18,000-20,000 miles. ???? So does the Service Plan not just show 2 fixed service services, year 1 & 2. Oil & Inspection services? even, As some get, Just an Oil & Filter Service & an Oil & Inspection Service.

Once a VIN is used, you can't remove it to add another VIN in it's place I'm afraid. The full FAQ is here: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/8869/ Personally, I'd suggest a HEX-V2 10-VIN edition, they should be around £299 and should cover your 3 cars along with a few extra. It's also only one upgrade ($169 ~£125) from being unlimited. Just for example: https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV210.html As for alternatives, many people use OBDeleven or Carista but I don't have any direct experience with either I'm afraid. edit: Seems some of this may have been answered whilst I typed

Been asked on the Ross-Tech forum several times recently, the simple answer is no - once a VIN is used it's permanent and cannot be removed. A VIN is only used when changes are made to coding or adaptation, reading and clearing faults or doing an Auto-Scan doesn't use a VIN.

youre correct George, considering the guy was in it, and just wandered off while yer ma was clearly talking about it... if it was "pure coincidence" and "wasnt for public viewing yet" wouldnt you get out tell the vlogger to go **** off and stop filming?? 🤣

As it has 2 SD slots and no CD drive I think its an Admunsen 2 head unit.

I had that horrible creak on mine when going over bumps. It was cured when I replaced the anti roll bar bushes. It has started to return again recently after a couple of silent years, so this time I will be changing them for poly bushes.

Never daft idea to buy too much when it comes to coolant, I always keep some spare in the boot or in the shed.

@Skoolboyerror However if the fault was first reported quite early on, and within the 6 months, but still unable to fix it after multiple goes (and now beyond the 6 months) then it is much easier to still reject. If fault first occurred after the 6 months that’s when your rights are much weaker. Also look through following threads which have lot of info on rejection (especially the post by Kodiaq Sportline) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500371-4-weeks-old-car-and-gearbox-fault/?tab=comments#comment-5616869 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500276-car-rejected-activated/

Lucky it was not this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXY9yi2RzS4

And you bought the mk4? 😱

Used to buy this when I had the Scout with its fan washers but dont bother with the Superb. Just buy ready mix from Halfords saves the hassle.

Looks nice! Welcome to Briskoda!

Hi kind regards from Poland. Superb 2.0 TDI 200HP Colour : Imperial Violet Equip: Style + all other possible options (excluding leather and 19 inch alloys). My second Superb

I've been on this forum for about 9 years now and it was invaluable in helping me to firstly decide the Yeti was a car I'd rather not live without and then to decide on spec. (and indeed what some of the options actually were) and it was through the advice of some of the earliest members I took the trouble to get my Elegance supplied on 16" rather than 17" wheels, which I've never regretted. Throughout most of that time there has been light-hearted banter, excellent advice and on many occasions clear disagreement about the "right" way to do things. But posters seemed to be able to agree to disagree and leave the OP to decide what advice to follow and what to ignore. You quickly learnt who "knew their stuff", for example The Plumber was held in high regard for his technical knowledge, Llanigram was the go-to guy for off-roading and had an impressive knowledge of legislation and there were others of their standing or close to it. I learnt a lot along the way, most of which I will never put into practice but at least put me a little less in the role of sheep-to-the-slaughter when the car goes into the garage for work. But what I don't remember was any unnecessary and sometime sustained unpleasantness - usually about something totally inconsequential. Unfortunately owners have moved on and, at least in my opinion, some of the newer members seem to think they have a monopoly on being right and aren't slow in expressing that anyone holding a different view is either incompetent or a fool. A couple of recent examples are the tirades being delivered about where to put the locking bolt (if at all) when the OP simply asked about replacing a rounded-of bolt and the "discussion" about the possible insurance consequences of changing the ride height and, by inference, handling characteristics. It's perfectly reasonable for a forum member to point out modifications can affect insurance and totally out of order to say that this isn't appropriate for a car forum. If you don't like any advice, don't take it but it might be helpful to others now or in the future. I will continue visiting the forum because there is always something to be learnt and also hopefully occasionally I may be able to help someone with their issue but I have to say that these days there's an increasing urge to use the "ignore" button for some members and their content. If this posting offends anyone sorry about that but I'll happily add you to my Ignore list as I'd simply rather correspond with posters who can respect the views of others even if they can't agree with them. Best wishes for the New Year to the many, many forum members able to participate in a sensible and civilised manner.

Never mind retrofit to matrix led completed succefully done

Just use force, clips let go eventually:) This is how it looks like:

Rusty door shuts. Did attempt to repair myself. You've got to try right? But alas, it didn't last and it came back again about a year later. So a quick visit to TPSmart repair... Top job. They also repaired the sills along the front as those were pretty rusted. Cut it all out and put new metal in. Next up, new side skirts and VRS door bump strips. Still trying to find a half decent VRS rear bumper, which hasn't been rammed into everything... - In other, cleaned up the old mans Octi engine bay. - Finally fitted the new engine mounts. Not driven much since putting them in. Have noticed the cabin is louder with vibrations, but it doesn't really bother me. Its only really noticeable whilst at a standstill. - Other bits to maybe mention on. Trying out an Ultragauge. Still not got rubber for the new wheels. Had a small slip on some diesel into a muddy bank. Fitted a VRS front. And not pictured, managed to rust treat most of the underside and added a layer of waxyoil. That wasn't a fun task... Rear subframe is far too rusted for my liking. Next month, we're going down the Verkline route :

The basic sound system Very disappointing...to hear the rear speakers you have to put the fade and balance right back...there is very little adjustment in sound field tweeters are poor...I'm already think of changing all speakers and adding amp and sub but worried about voiding warranty !!!

Short story: 235/45R17 fits nicely on my stock suspension Octavia 1.8T. Also looks nice and aggresive on Avus Audi S3 17" rims (wider and more offset than stock 17" spyder rims), my intention of keeping the car as a sleeper just went down the drain. Before/after pics below. Long story: So after running around the whole year incognito mode, steel 15" rims 195/65R15 w/o hubcaps, enjoying myself, and faces of unsuspecting BMW drivers - I've done the famous AUM stage 1 remap to 210 hp after which the tyres can't handle the acceleration in first two gears, and made the car almost impossible to accelerate/drive when raining so I had to do something about the grip. The idea was to get ANY cheapo/trash/dank - undamaged 17" rim to fit the standard 225/45R17, I really wanted some Fe rims (again, incognito-sleeper style), but they don't exist in 57,1 5x100 dimensions (there is a 5x100 17" steel rim, but it's for some huge Renault, and I think it's only for the spare wheel, making the rim witdh in range of lol-J). There is a lot to choose in 16" region, but 205 is just too small for the power the car makes, IMHO. I even looked into 215 combinations in 16" and not only there is no performance tyre in this dimension, it's ridiculously expensive. Mind you, I'm running standard setup on all four corners - Bilstein B4 shocks, Bilstein OEM springs - no lowering, I was a click away to order the heightened springs!! I'm never going to be a style-slave, laughing while just casually cruising over speedbumps whereas dropped GTI's/Type-R's/RS's have to do the diagonal idle+clutch maneuvers I also fancied the idea of fitting larger tyres on it, 235/45R17, my flow of thought was the following, pros/cons: + more grip ofcourse + more offset/scrub radius - more initial turn-in, responsiveness on the steering wheel + more accurate speedo + keeping comfort (decent sidewall) + less wear + overall height of car increased, again more comfort + tyre "attack angle" smaller, making it easier to run over obstacles (eg. curbs, speed-bumps), again, even more comfort (you probably noticed a pattern, I'm anti-style oriented, pro-sleeper/comfort style :)) + visually I always liked seeing fat-meaty tyres in the back + only slightly more expensive than 225/45R17 - very little experience on Octavia mk1 + that tyre combo, some say it fit's others say it doesn't - much heavier - slower acceleration - possible rubbing - worse fuel consumption (it's LPG-ed and it's dirt cheap here in Croatia) Anyway, I managed to snatch a great deal on original 17" Audi S3 "Avus" Alu rims (made by Ronal, Made in Germany), bonus points: they are 6 mm more offset and 0.5J wider than standard rims 17" Spyders, making way for wider tyre! All the calculations point to no rubbing with 235/45R17 ( https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-65-15X6ET38&wheel2=235-45-17X7.5ET32&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm left is my standard setup, right is Avus). But a real life test is needed, I don't want to risk spending €€€'s and putting new summer 235's just to find out they don't fit/rub! So I also managed to snatch winter tyres dirt cheap (almost free), Hankook Winter iCept 235/45R17 DOT2016 halfway worn - perfect for testing out the setup - if it fits, great, if it doesn't I spent a few hours and a few bucks demistifying it. Putting on just the rim on the car was a shock, when lifted, viusally seems like ~2 cm more than outline of car, ouch - on the inside though, quite a lot of space; the guys at the wheel shop rolled they eyes constantly We fitted the tyre rim combo, dropped the car, did a run around the lot full lock..... Purrrrfect, no rubbing, and when car is sitting on it's own it's just right, slightly out of car outline, this will be a slight pain to homologate tho. Inital impressions after a few runs: +/- wheels are a stunner, so much for my incognito/sleeper preferences, honestly, looks much more aggressive than the RS... I guess I'll deal with it. + very soft and controlled wheelhop, car doesn't want to break apart when you loose grip + comfortable + better turn-in, much less wobbly car - awfully heavy, steel rims+tyre 16.6 kg, alu rims+tyre 22.4 kg, ouch, you can see the pictures below, but I'll write up for any google search guys to stumble upon this, I find it invaluable info: - 235/45R17 Hankook Winter iCept 1/2 worn: 10.5 kg - Audi S3 Ronal Alu 17" rims: 11.7 kg - 17" above tyre+rim combo: 22.4 kg - 15" stock steel rim + 195/65R15 Pirelli P7 combo: 16.6 kg - noticeably "slower", feeling is the inital throttle response is much lazier, not so agressive as on 15"; can't really blame it, the car couldn't even accelerate before Didn't try the twisties yet, but the idea is to run around a few weeks and notice how the car behaves and if there will be no rubbing in spring get the Goodyears F1 Assy 5 in 235/45R17. @Madket