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Just to close this off for anyone that's interested, we picked up our nearly new Audi today after cancelling the vRS order. I think we made the right choice. We've not really punished VAG for the terrible Skoda experience, but hey ho.

I do not believe that figure for even one second.

...or in your case another dead body and the zip ties and duct tape...

Welp, got a confirmation from my dealer yesterday. My Scala is in Croatia and should be ready sometime next week. Holy cow!

It's up on the configurator... £52k base price!

AWY and BMD never had one. AZQ always had, BME had one until end of 2005, then didn't.

It is true of the earlier K-line ECU's, since Euro 5, disconnecting the battery will not reset the dynamic map, you have to use diagnostic software to clear the faults which also clears the map.

A Golf is hardly a big car, you can figure this out for yourself then. I'm out.

Mythology for most recent engine ECUs. frankly.

Update, it was indeed fuse 8. Cheers guys another trip to the stealers saved

A few more taken with my camera.....

Dusted off the camera to get a couple of shots from Storm Eunice.

I think the105 was in the Mk 2 (07 on) but unsure what the difference is to the 100 - mapping only or mechanical components? There can be issues such as head lift when tuning the 130, so if going down that route you really need to review how deep your pockets are now, and down the line.

My first Gridserve experience last night as we made an unscheduled trip to the Borders. Two 50kW Gridserve chargers at Tebay, one in use when we arrived. Plug in, flashed the credit card and off we went. Excellent. 48kW for the full 50 minutes while we ate. Fingers crossed all public charging is like this.

The sheer amount of work needed for that extra 35 BHP beggars belief, it's also non-trivial since the ECU and wiring loom are completely different between PD100 and PD130. this isn't a straightforward scrapyard tune up. You'll be needing a donor car as well as the estate car, lots of dry, well-lit space, proper tools and the talent to use them and it's gonna cost THOUSANDS. ...or you buy the estate car and throw a few hundred quid at it and get 90% of what you want. Now what's it gonna be?

I've just checked the wiring diagrams for pre-FL and FL cars, both 12v sockets are powered directly from the car battery via fuse SA1 then SC40. It's impossible for the car to turn the sockets off when the battery gets low I can only guess that PetrolDave's coolbox had some internal smarts to stop it flattening the battery...?

Shouldn't be a problem now that you've eliminated the root cause of the vibration Kharl. The genuine one does appear to be a bolt: Screw M8x50 genuine part N0195433 (skoda-parts.com) Correctly tightened in this application I wouldn't think there's much difference.

As Sep advised, the standard 1.9 TDI is an excellent starting point with plenty of scope for tuning - either professionally or "at home" as the EDC15 ECU can be modified at home via the OBD port and a purchased generic map. Unfortunately Blacksmoke no longer advertises on the bay as he had a good reputation on many Skoda, VW, Audi forums for his £40 maps, would be wary of some of the ones being sold. Unsure of your comment "2nd gen estate" as there was a Mk1 facelift which may be considered 2nd gen, but if you mean the Mk2 the pre facelift version was also fitted with the 1.9 TDI, although I am unsure of the ECU fitted in those - these may require a bench remap. Would you want the VRS bumper and the flimsy VRS cloth seats that all appear to have warn bolsters, surely a Q car is more fun - looks like a standard old mans car until someone tries to pass.

As stated just get a proper remap and you'll have PD130 power, the six speed gearbox in the VRS is a turd anyway, the five speeder is much stronger and you won't have a DMF to worry about either, chuck some VRS alloys on it and bob's your uncle.

100% pure aluminium and a bit of paint / lacquer, the BIG 15" beasties not the wee 14" steelies I will have you know!

Rear doors are a bit more difficult than front ones to replace, if you already have electric windows on the rear then no problem wiring willl plug in to existing sockets, the biggest issue is the glass, most Fabia's have privacy glass on the rear and different shades of tint so you might need to remove the glass from yours to put in new /replacement door, for this you will need to get hold of two bolts/screws to hold glass in place to remove guides otherwise glass can drop straight down and shatter you need to wind window down insert bolts remove guides and felt then remove glass, the door needs to open right out, you need to remove metal stay straps so you can get at the hinge bolts, don't forget to mark up hinges to put them back in the same place, sorry forgot to say door card and handles have to come off first , get some one to give you a hand door is quite heavy and you'll need a hand to put it back on one of you to steady door the other to put bolts in and line up door, you can put the glass back in before fitting door it's up to you

Hello 😁 My name is Dominik and I am from Slovenia. Been a Skoda fan for a while now. Previously owned a mk2 tdi estate. A true workhorse. Loved it and couldn't give it away, so I gifted it to my sister. That way it stayed in the family. Now I am a happy owner of a 2015 Mk3 Octavia vRS TDI. It woke a car guy in me that I didnt know existed. Joind the forum to share my newly discovered enthusiasm for modding. Although its a diesel, I plan to do some stuff to it. Best regards to everyone 😊

No, the six speed is weak, the torque of even a mildly tuned VRS will wreck it.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202202142539317 Ambiente is a facelifted Comfort. Needs a little love perhaps. Has some niceties and some other nonsense while being a bit of a "Q car". Don't take the bump strips off though, or else it'll look like my old fridge.

ok guys just bought some gorilla duct tape, taped the air intake pipe ( still not sure if it is called that) then started the engine and it felt and sound smooth.

I've had loads of Octavia's will get a Mk4 at some point if they sort out the reliability issues.

It will improve for a while through the bleeding but will likely return, garage was correct to tackle the easier cheaper master cylinder first just in case.

Have a look at this

After quite a lot of research into the best suited car for our needs to replace our ageing Mondeo (I’m 6’4”, tow a caravan, have two large dogs etc) we opted for the Superb 170 Diesel 4x4 DSG. I found a ‘63 plate and got it for £7700. ( price reduced to to knackered Columbus unit) ….. it’s taken some getting used to, bear in mind I had my Mondeo for 10 years, and we have had both rear wheel sensors fail which causes quite a few problems and warnings, I still don’t completely feel comfortable with it after 6 months. We had 10 days away on the caravan in the York’s Moors, and I have to say that as a tow car it was brilliant…… I think I just need reassurance that I’ve done the right thing with buying the superb!

VRS yes please. O and has to be same price as the skoda so sub 30k

My Guardsman dog guard turned up yesterday, what a nice bit of kit, so easy to fit and remove again. Much less fiddly than the Travall that I had in my Karoq

Found it it was the 5amp s contact fuse

Pretty sure the tensioners are a lifetime part with no service requirement. As far as I know, the MK3 doesn't typically have any tensioner issues. I'm certainly not planning to touch the one on my vRS... There were issues with the MK2 engines where the tensioner had a design flaw and could skip a tooth which was fixed by a newer tensioner revision so maybe the dealer is using that as an excuse

The estate only got up to the PD100, and not the PD130. You could always just remap it. Stick the vRS interior and other trim bits (will need a custom rear bumper maybe) such as front bumper and a rear spoiler specifically for the estate if you can find it. Also, these engines won't run SVO due to the injectors AFAIK, there's other threads about it too. Hope this helps.

TL;DR I want fast(ish) economical estate by making the car skoda should have made 20 years ago, the fabia estate VRS 1.9 tdi

Just disconnect the MAF, if it runs better then replace it. I would say you probably have a vacuum leak since you have two codes showing that depend on good vacuum. Glowplug relay comes a distant third in importance.

Further to my earlier post where I said my car mostly moves off in 2nd gear.... Today I tried the DSG reset procedure that I read about on here (ignition on, throttle to the floor for 20 seconds, foot off the throttle, then start the engine). Much to my surprise and, I suppose, delight, my car now drops into 1st most of the time when stopped or slowed to below 5mph. I've only had the blooming thing for 3 years and put up with the slow 2nd gear starts all that time!

Bonjour et bienvenue ! That's me used my quota of French for this year... and who says Higher French was a waste of my time at school?

1. Not too bad, but you'll need a mate to help you. 2. No it won't.

Unfortunately the easy access in YouTube video is with a pre-facelift car. For a facelift car like yours you need to remove bumper to gain access to remove headlamps to in turn access the bulbs so rather than a 2 minute job it becomes a 2 hour job. Also note bulbs are different, facelift needs D3S whereas earlier cars use D1S

Isn't it simpler to just plug in a USB phone charger to get one or two USB sockets? Examples shown here Mobile Phone Car Chargers | MyMemory Or am I missing something?? Chris

Superb 2018 has MIB2.5, which does not have wireless CarPlay or Android Auto capability. U'll need a wireless dongle, like AAWireless. I've got one of these myself. I forgot wat the CarPlay equivalent is called. Only the MIB3 units on the facelift Superb has the wireless capability.

It is a nice country for visiting, it is cheap and has beautiful scenarios, i have pending to upload two road trips more i did, one to the farthest south and another to the highest point (8,000 feets above the sea where the temperature at night was -6 celcius ), the traffic is chaotic, and the ladies good looking 🤣.

Anybody able to translate that for me please?

Yeah it is very clear they messed up big time, no excuses.

The Skoda bars are Thule items. I have them and they are Thule branded underneath so they’re not some cheap brand

@MarkyG82 The reason your car will have shown the Winter Tyre Warning will be because someone set a 'Speed Warning for winter tyres'. I used to set one Speed Limit Warning and the Winter Tyre Warning at the speed i might expect a ban. You can set both limits if you want. If in some countries the car can not be set for a Winter Tyre Setting then a sticker needs to be displayed. As far as a know all Skoda Models can be set to show a speed limit for Winter Tyres and that us then set by whoever, usually a driver.

Does it have EPB, electric parking brake? These clamp the rear discs very hard when applied. In damp winter conditions, along with what I suspect is a pad composition containing copper, the disc corrodes under the pad while its stood and applied. You can usually see the imprint of a pad on the disc and if stood a while this is quite marked corrosion. This also leads to the impression of juddering under braking. Note the corrosion is usually much worse on the inside and unseen face of the disc, on the side where the piston is. A few sessions of heavy braking from spwed can usually clean the disc if the corrosion isn't too deep. A more effective method is to apply the electric handbrake while travelling at speed though this is dramatic, brown pants moment type thing. Definitely not for the light hearted. Should only be done in controlled conditions on deserted straight roads in good road conditions. Tyres need to be warmed up otherwise they will lock and ABS will be going like the clappers. Try the heavy braking before asking Skoda to look as they will simply say wear and tear and ask for £300 to exchange discs and pads. Warranty on brakes expires at 6 months/6500 miles, clearly stated in the small print. If you have a sympathetic dealer, they may give you some goodwill, but this is a rare occurrence.

Great write up, just followed this myself. Longest part was a tie between removing/fitting glove box to access the fuses and trying to retrieve a screw that I managed to drop down the air vent! But now I have a daughter who can play on tablet on long journeys. 🙂 I certainly recommend the official cig lighter removal tool, took about 30 seconds to the lighter out.