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Clumber Park earlier

...to avoid confusion it's a good idea to keep your profile up-to-date 😘

Scary. On every new to me vehicle whether new or second hand I check the oil level every week, if after a decent period no discernable loss shows and if the vehicle has a low oil level warning system like my Skodas have all had then I will leave it to do its job but every time the bonnet gets opened all the fluid levels get checked despite them all having low fluid warning systems, I also check those systems with VCDS and also manually where possible like removing the brake fluid reservoir cap. I check all my tyre pressures religiously once a week and the treads visually more frequently, this has at the least saved me from having to replace repairable tyres (screws/nails in tread, bead leaks) and at worst from causing an accident. The above was considered essential responsable behaviour when I started driving, I realise that times have changed but the dangers havn't, when I see insouciance expressed in that way I do find it scary.

I have no idea if this will work: Ordered August last year.

Some more content from the Canton retrofit, this wind and rain is hampering efforts. Subwoofer fitted and wiring ran for the subwoofer and offside door wiring. also ran my blind spot assist wiring whilst I was here

Well, it's done. Much to my surprise the car sounds quieter, drives "better", more new car feel. Since I've had the car from new and it's on 122k, it now seems to have a new lease of life - not that there was anything really wrong with it. A lot of pushing/pulling/levering did not show any joint movement/ slackness - but I'm happier now.

And, finally picked it up two days ago:

As you've used the car for the last few days without any problems, presumably the battery is being charged. Try putting in the old battery and see what happens. If you get the same fault(s) then you have more info to give readers here or an auto electrician.

If I'm reading this correctly, you're not getting a battery light when you first with on, yes? If so, then I'd suspect a break or loose connection in the alternator control wires.

Well, If it helps they do make a drone, and have the characteristic "wobble wear", when needing replaced.

Apertures - What's your problem dude? Do you work for Skoda or Pirelli? If so, are you saying that Skoda suspension bushes wear out after only 25k miles of benign driving? Like I said, I was there in the office when the call was made and it was on speaker phone. The fact that the distributor knew about it obviously means I'm not the only guy to experience it. The tracking was checked immediately after replacing the tyres and was found to be well within limits. Just because every little incident isn't reported on this website doesn't mean it hasn't happened!

@sargentbashIs this the first time you have checked the oil since getting the car? Have you ever checked the tyre pressures? Using some oil and more so in the first thousands of miles / km is perfectly usual as is the need to check oil and not wait for warnings.

I like black, the wife likes the chrome. So if my car comes, it'll be keeping the chrome 😅

Where is the best place to contact Skoda UK customer service , was at the dealership today to try and claim for a rear brake disc that is warped the car had 8k when the problem occurred now 12k due to dealer not doing warranty work in favour of full payment customers, the dealer is saying it is wear and tear and I cannot claim for it , my point is there is minimal wear on the disc so I am wishing to claim a manufacture defect for this fault your thoughts please , I work in the motor trade as a mot tester and would currently fail this car for excessive fluctuation if presented for a test 2020 (70 plate) do I fight it or fit new pads and discs myself...its the principal

Hi guys, had the intermittent problem above, then it happened twice yesterday so thought id try get to the bottom of it! My mk1 vrs went into limp mode, so i turned her off and on again (which usually sorts the problem) but yesterday when I restarted it, the throttle was stuck at around 2k rpm and there was popping from the exhaust…I imagine from the extra fuel. in the past, my snap on tool has flagged up logged error codes around the thermostat and advance cam timing, so im thinking either faulty thermostat or cam sensor? any thoughts or advice welcome!!

That sort of cracking seems to be common on summer tyres that are used all year, including in cold weather. UV rays are thought to contribute to the degrading which makes them hard and more brittle when cold. However doesn’t seem to happen on tyres stored in a garage during winter, whilst winter tyres are on. Haven’t heard of it happening to all season tyres either. My experience of Pirelli P7s is seem to wear very slowly (likely to do 50k miles), but I do swap their locations each year when winter tyres taken off. After 4 years I have no cracking (and I did use them first winter until I realised they are poor in cold rain, and vowed never again to treat them as all year tyres)

When I was looking for a 2nd hand petrol Superb estate in 2018 to replace my old Mk2 Superb 170TDi Elegance I wanted a Sportline. However, I also wanted the 280 engine, 4 x 4, leather, heated front windscreen, DCC, heated seats etc. This pretty much ruled out the Sportline. 280's in any guise were as rare as hens teeth at the time I was looking but I eventually found a 2.5 year old 2016 66 plate L&K 280 estate in Black metallic with 22k on the clock. It had no rear camera or sunroof but apart from that it had everything else I could want plus a few things I didn't need - park assist (never used) & lane assist (turned off the day I got it). It was a quick car as stock but I added a Revo stage 1 remap (360BHP) & now my "under the radar dad's" car now has a real turn of speed when needed. A hugely practical & capable car which I will probably keep for a while yet. And, according to Autotrader used car prices, I reckon I could now get very close to what I paid for it back in May 2018!! Amazing.. So am I glad I went for an L&K over a Sportline? Oh yes.

No line out, sorry

You may have better help from the mk3 section as thats what your car is, not a mk1.

Anyway, Skoda stood the bill, it's easier to sell than with no engine

Unexpected day off, DHL / Curry's unable to organise the proverbial.... Old quarry, now a 4x4 playground .... and a nice little reward...

Cheers from Serbian Octavia IV TDI owner 😘

Thanks 🍻🍻🍻

I don't think mine is a AWD

In 2022 that looks bloody rubbish, it just cheapens the model. 🙄

I made an observation in another thread, that the number of people who seem to have warped discs on this forum is phenomenally high.

Is it possible to turn down the fan speed? Or is it effectively stuck on full? If the resistor pack / regulator for the fan burns out then you will typically get a burning smell along with a fan running at full speed. I've no practical experience, but a quick google suggests that the regulator on a MK3 Octavia is located in the fan unit itself, and if it is this you're likely looking at a reasonable amount of labour to get to it. It this is the problem, it seems to be #4 in the image linked to below - part number 5Q0907521D https://www.ilcats.ru/skoda/?function=getParts&market=CZ&model=OCT&modelcode=805&group=8&subgroup=819&part=819020&pid=54655&language=en

Not really into Texas; Any MacDonald OTOH...

Ach, it's chust a wee soft mornin'.

Hi Guys, Well it looks like you've all got your fingers on the pulse. The AA man came today and immediately said "Battery's had it" which is what you all suggested. I will not be taking any notice of Halfords any more. Little car started right up with no nasty warnings. Thanks again for your help K

The £600 quote could be for a full propshaft and joint as Skoda will only supply as a complete unit and not the rubber joint separately...

I am looking forwards to getting the facelift model as well 😆

Original battery no, an identical replacement battery will need the serial number held in the battery management system updating (just change 1 digit).

So maybe 300 odd miles in UK warmer weather on your jack Jones in a spacious family car with a fair wind.

Thankyou

Was it changed at the 5 year interval as recommended by Skoda UK?

See link below, part four. https://batteryworld.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/standard-flooded-battery-start-stop Had one come in at work where eventually, the non stop start battery that the customer had fitted, could not take the higher voltages from the car, that it cracked open and caught fire. Thanks, AG Falco

@lol-lol Lets list them. Which are these EV's that have a '300 mile range when it is a super cold winter night with all ancillaries running and that @Lady Elanorecan afford', this was the brief. I think she can afford quite a lot if she gets low cost electric and runs it instead of what she does, but maybe that is not the case. Norwegian conditions might well be not that common in the UK but not that unusual.

None are a "straight fit" to the ccza, the compressor housing has to be modified on a k04-064 to fit properly and i'd expect the same of a K04-530. As far as i know no variants of the CCZ or ea888 gen1 or 2 came with a K04 as standard so there's going to be some tweaking to get it fitted. The IS38 is an EA888 gen 3 turbo which has no manifold so thats out of the question.

I collected my VRS last Friday, so they do arrive eventually 😂 All the options I wanted were included, so nobody needs to worry about Canton not arriving. It’s a fantastic car and well worth the wait. Good luck everyone!

So there is a flat or dying battery or a poor connection / loose terminal.

Thank you for the assistance, Indeed this appear to be the issue. I took it to other shop which specialize in VW where they drain and clean the whole cooling system and replaced the oil coller. Thank you guys

Hub flange diameter is 6mm smaller on the ones for 239mm brakes, so presumably the 'standard' 6Q0407621BR one won't fit those discs. I've only just found what's different. Please note: it's also very important that the correct tooling is used to install these bearings. Ensure that whoever is doing the job knows about "Gen2" tooling, and doesn't just press it in by the hub flange face. Damage to bearings and/or ABS faults result from failing to understand this. Repeating the job is expensive.

It said M4 on the back.... honest 😇: Might've been latin - MIV Gaz

Hi pab567, Please can you provide the latest software update available for my device? Device Part Number: 5Q0035840A Hardware: H25 Software: 0245 Media codec: 2101.0.0.10 Thanks in advance!

Hardwired supply to dashcam is ignition controlled, plugged into 12v socket is permanently live so draining battery.

Yes as the 12v socket is always live so your dash-cam could be draining your battery

Not at all thy only start working when you load them up the ride height stayed the same as well

If you look you will see that the platform is bolted to the corners of the roof (7 minutes 47 seconds) through load spreader plates, given that the platform & helico weigh approx half of what the vehicle does it should be no surprise that it can take the weight. Those of us of a certain age & inclination will remember when scrapyards stacked cars 3 even 4 high and the roofs never collapsed on the cars at the bottom, to suggest that no more than one moderately corpulent adult should sleep in a roof tent is frankly ridiculous. The max roof loadings (& I think it may actually be 75kg) are so that the vehicles when loaded within the manufacturers limits can meet safety standards like the elk test. To the OP, the Decathlon Arpenez Base tent is an affordable option that fits well over the rear of the Yeti.