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Just been updated that my new Sportline is in the UK. Hopefully a couple of weeks away from hands on!

Yes, except the word 'just' has no right to be in that last sentence. Big, awkward job, especially so the first few times you do it, and easy to cause new problems if things don't go perfectly.

A couple from the Romney Marsh this evening. Weather wasn’t kind to me.

Quite pleasant when we set off, but hailing and 1 degree currently

The maximum vacuum that can ever be pulled is one bar, the water pump generates a negative pressure many many magnitudes beneath that. The OP has no doubt been misinformed probably by the mechanics repairing the vehicle, he has come on here like most of us to become informed and often that involves being disabused of certain notions, I would suggest as a new member he be spared the ridicule. I get where you are coming from ApertureS and agree that Silkat contamination may well be causing all sorts of problems and that the sliding sleeve on the waterpumps great though it is when it works is a liability, when mine goes if its through a sticking sleeve it will be replaced with a non sleeve one and that is all that I would put on a taxi that usually only gets warmed up once per shift.

I took a photo of Patricia Routledge

OK, I have been a Taxi Fleet owner since 2002, I was one of the first fleet owners to Go All Out SKODA, Skoda's as a Taxis take a lot of hard wok but Skoda back then cut through it. Easy to work on diesel engines , parts reasonable and available. from 2013 something went wrong, OK they maybe chasing O2 emission levels, but from 2013 i had noticed the cars were not up for the Job at hand, breakdowns are regular, costs are higher, reliability has dropped to an all time low. Faulty Auto Gearboxes ! Faulty Water Pumps etc etc. I wanna talk about the water pump issues Cooling System. From 2015/6 these water pumps with the electrical thermostat have killed the engines, they corrode and contaminate the radiator and valve systems which causes pressure, we can change 3 water pumps before the Timing Belt needs changing. Not only that it blocks the system up to a point it sucks water in through the head and can terminally destroy that Engine . I am forever working on cars with mystery water losses. Thanks Skoda. Good Luck. after 20 years we are now moving to Toyota Hybrids. PS SKODA wont even replace the faulty pumps under warranty ! they even tried to blame my tap water and coolant fluid. Regards

Do you want to retain/fix the alarm, or would you happy without it? Finding and removing the sounder will solve the problem if you're not bothered. I think there's no chance it'll be anything to do with the car battery.

Not a very nice welcome for a new member. Your question is unneccesary, the OP said that they wanted to talk about the water pump and cooling system issues which is exactly what this forum is for. He was very shrewd and showed great foresight by choosing Skoda for his taxi fleet in 2002, they really have let down fleet customers like him since 2015. I have always used tap water mixed with the recommended concentrated coolant as it is intended, people with their own vehicles can indulge themselves with whatever fuel, oils, distilled water, snake oil they choose but someone running a fleet of taxis works too hard for their money to throw it away for zero benefit.

A day out to Nymans, just off the A23, glad that the weather held off for us: Photobombed by Mrs Gaz: Photobombed by a Bumbly bee: Gaz

Thanks to the forum I have, at last, managed to replace the DRL on my 2015 Yeti Outdoor. A few tips which might be useful. If replacing the nearside one, Remove the fuse box cover, as it gives you a little more room to work (A piece of rag placed over the end of the fuse box might be useful to protect against sharp edges). A small, cold hand will also be useful, as space is very tight. Secondly, make sure that the bulb is securely seated in the holder. Mine wasn't and fell off into the lens area! Somehow I managed to retrieve it, using a gadget that was given to me about 15 years ago and never used before-namely a mega pick up tool. This is an extendable rod, with a vary strong magnet on the end. It folds up to the size of a pen. Finally, when replacing the light unit into the headlamp unit, I turned on the sidelights, to give me a better view from the front, for positioning the unit into the aperture.

The issue very much needs to be the efficiency and possible range really of a 58 or 77 kW Born at the various temps of maybe below 0, & 0, 5,10,15,20 or 25*oC as found in the UK over 12 months. Any WLTP figures given might be achieved some of the time in some trips at times of the year. Any Family Sized car with just a driver that struggles to get 3.5 miles to a kWh when the temp is in single figures needs flagged as being so. 58 kW x 3.5 miles= 203, 77 kW x 3.5 miles = 269.5

Don't you think all this should be in one of the (many) charger / charging threads? Not particularly about the Cupra Born is it?

2006 ETKA page relevantly cropped and highlighted. 3rd digit is what differentiates LHD/RHD, various other different characters for petrol/diesel/automatic/manual. I suspect a 56-plate vRS is going to have the 6Q2721503H variant, penultimate in list of '15' s.

Good question! It’s more the fact that it won’t work which is annoying me. I’ve been trying now for a couple of weeks.

Well, I won't be seeing this function, as I'm in Sport mode whilst in hybrid mode, as I prefer the ride and handling. I've mentioned on other threads that I think that the benefits of operating a PHEV are very mission dependent. For me, it's perfect - Monday-Friday, the work commute is 4.5 miles each way in EV mode, charging on cheap rate electricity with a home wall charger. Pretty much every other weekend through the year, I have a 105 mile journey to the south coast and back. That journey is a mile of town to start, then 8 miles of 30/40 urban at the end with the middle bit on dual carriageway A-road and the M3/M27. No charging when away overnight. EV mode used for the M3 traffic crawl and the urban bits, then use whatever battery life is left for the last few miles on the way home. I, too, use EV in 30/40 mph environments but hybrid (ICE/EV doing its own thing) above 40 mph. In the way I operate, I also think you have to engage with the drive system more to get the best out of it - unlike petrol, diesel and BEV where you only have one 'fuel' to use. Again, this isn't for everyone but I enjoy it!

Yep - I've just looked in my manual, and it confirms that the system can display a max of 1000 files / folders in a single folder. @briintheskyYou'll need to re-organise your music files so that no more than 1000 are in any single folder. You don't have to do it my artist/album if that's a pain, any subdivision will do. I just use artist/album as that's what Windows Media Player automagically creates on my PC.

Likewise I have Artist / Album as my folder structure . In fact I think the sync may create a single top level folded on the SD card called Music which contain the Artist folders. But as above, too many tracks in a folder may be the issue.

Just buy whatever is best value, it doesn't really matter on an engine that weedy.

I use the same rubber pad for that purpose too, quick wheel change, use on sill, longer job trolley jack elsewhere and axle stands. The pad I use has a square bottomed groove but the v shape should work effectively.

IMO no Family Sized EV in the UK should be described as a 300 miles plus range car until. You can charge to 100% and leave it sitting maybe overnight. Then you get in with your family and stuff regardless of the weather and drive anyplace 150 miles away using any road type and at UK NSL's, then leave the car at least 1 hour and then all head back 150 miles and get there with maybe 10 miles range minimum and not have anything in the car reduced because the battery has reduced power, heating or cooling. ................................... Actual real world efficiency of the cars with ambient temperatures below the teens with just a driver will be interesting to see as the figures this vlogger got are not impressive. If the distances are with cars going non stop or with just one or 2 stops then that is not the same as broken journies. If the numbers are just a calculation of maybe driving 20% of the miles and then multiplying then they can not be trusted. The Born (62) usable battery of 58 kW battery will be lighter than a 77 kW. The ID.3 (82) is 77 kW usable so comparable with a Born 77 with weight much the same but maybe wheels and tyres being different. Born 58kW @ 90 km / 56 mph did 207 miles, 207 miles divided by 58 = 3.6 miles per kWh ID.3 77kW @ 90 km / 56 mph did 289 miles, (Summer tyres) 289 miles divided by 77 = 3.75 miles per kWh Born 58 @ 120 km / 75 mph did 150 miles, 150 miles divided by 58 = 2.6 miler per kWh. ID.3 82 / 77 kW @ 120 km / 75 mph did 202 miles, (Summer Tyres) 202 miles divided by 77 = 2.6 miles per kWh.

I upgraded mine with AP Racing rotors on both front and rear (new AP Racing calipers on the front and stock caliper on rear ones). I bought them here: FRONT: https://www.vagbremtechnic.com/front-brake-kit-6-piston-ap-racing-calipers-with-390x34mm-2-piece-discs-bk0019/ REAR: https://www.vagbremtechnic.com/rear-356x22mm-disc-upgrade-kit-for-s3-rs3-golf-r-di0019/

I didn’t bother driving the ID3 as the looks put me off a tad. However the Born drive wasn’t in any way bad. The last time I drove a RWD car was when I had a 5 Series and ideally I’d prefer FWD/4WD for the colder months but I honestly thought the ride was good. In no way wallowing on a variety of road surfaces - or letting the bumps transmit through to me. The car I test drove (VZ3) didn’t have a sunroof which I thought came on that spec but that wouldn’t have been my choice anyway - it would be the VZ2. No doubt, come April 1 more dealers will get their demo models registered too.

If you drive in sports mode it won't do the fancy sat nav thing because sports mode tries to maintain 50% battery at all times

Looking down a river near Ravenglass. Can't remember the name of the river though

Well it would be illegal in the UK as it would be classed as a distraction and there's already enough drongos on the road who use mobiles and try to watch tablets on the move🤦

Looks like the weather was perfect for those shots @B33fy

Unbelievable. They promised a sure delivery and now this…. But yes, higher prices and no stock (beside 1.0 engines) make us hold on and hope that eventually we will get it. Unless you need a car asap.

When we were young, we used to call starlings, 'Stinkers'. No idea why, but wondered if the Scots had a similar name for them?

For me with normal key the interior lights are turned on as soon as I remove the keys from the ignition.

Hi Pentium, Thanks for the pictorial, will be handy. The vag 'Q' numbers are all the same, but, the letter at the end are different?? So it's got to come out!

Good question to be fair. I activated mine assuming it would allow me to use the Care Connect functions to allow me to see if the alarm was set, or if the windows are left open or my current fuel and odometer .. Turns out, my car doesn't have the first two options and the third is controlled by SmartLink+, which is independent of this anyway. (Just remember to open / have open your smartlink app on your phone before you disconnect your phone and turn the engine off) You can check what you can and cannot do by using the Skoda Connect Availiabilty List which will tell you what you can expect to see if it activates. My model: All the infotainment online gubbins on mine has expired and the license needs renewing - £44 a year. No thanks, I can get all that on Waze for free And the care connect on mine is limited to: Which is basically, nothing useful. So yeah, its not amazing, but if its bugging you because its not working, then keep trying Slick2097

Sounds like it will be fine. You run CleanMyDrive once it's on the SD Card. As I said some people get away without using CleanMyDrive, that will be where it unzips directly to a clean SD card removing the Mac dross within the unzip where the program is clever enough to do it. Keka can't be why VW say use CleanMyDrive as well. Suspect the Mac unzipping software would have moaned about the Skoda file if there was an issue. PC one does, where the inbuilt file explorer one didn't. Tripped a few PC people up.

Couple of bits done recently... DSG remap to stage 1 - Amazing difference. Super quick changes and very smooth. Combined with the Engine remap... Superb! Rieger rear diffuser fitted. Custom exhaust made... originally wanted all 4 exits to work, but the Massive Ad Blu tank wasn't going to allow. So have a fakey exit and a real one. Upgraded the air intake to the Ram Air Pro version. I know it'll make minimal difference, I am aware of arguments for and against open cone/panel filters. But I like the sound, I like the look.

Lots of threads on here on 'Posh fuel's, Super unleaded, some say Premium Fuels. The higher Octane is going to be worth using if you think the car runs better, gets better fuel consumption or not, or just because you want to run it.

I'll give a shout out for MusicBee (https://getmusicbee.com/) which is the most phenomenal - and free - music manager. And it has a nice "sync to device" feature to keep your SD card in sync with the collection.

I have a 1.5TSI manual and am not happy about its mileage I average around 370~miles with one full gas of tank, with 430~miles being the absolute most I can get out of my car (but I have to drive out of town like a grandpa to achieve that) but I accept that since car is nearly perfect in every other aspect and for the fact I won't have to deal with diesel DPF failing any more like in my previous car.

I have way more that 1,000 tracks on my relatively ancient 2014 MIB1 system. Are you putting all of your tracks in a single folder on the SD card? If so, that may be the issue. I've got mine all sorted into folders by artist and album name.

In depth review by Autogefuhl from the launch day

I guess if the car was damp inside it could happen.

Thanks. I love my new runabout. Citigo Monte Carlo. Not fast fun but still fun.

Throttle pedal position sensor. Failed on my 1.2. Just lob the old unit off (three bolts, maybe four), get the part number, and send away for a second hand one from a breakers, mine was £15. Have done about 6k since I replaced mine and it's running like a wee sweetie. @Pete_Ex-Wino got my old failing one for research purposes. He might be able to tell you if it's possible to fix them. Until then, I'd recommend just replacing it. Hope this helps.

Well, I’ll do some more experimenting but I didn’t get the feeling mine was planning ahead at all! I normally drive in Sport mode, as I like feel and ride and it recharges to the set level. I did suss the other day that I can use my individual setting (basically Sport mode for suspension and steering) when running in EV which I much prefer. Only took me 12 months….!

£3,500?!?!?! Holy feck!!!

Bushings out finally, and I was able to use the holes for the buhes to hang the rear beam up to make it easier to paint. Then got a coat of Primer on it. And a coat of Hammerite Hammered black this evening. Its come out pretty well, seems to match the wheels almost perfectly which is cool. Needs a second coat of hammerite, and the bushes pushed in and thats the beam pretty much done. After that I can focus on the brakes.

Hi, I don't know if you sorted this issue yet but suggesting the bulb looks alright "Visually", (Same for the fuse) Is like saying something looks like it will taste nice, visually... You use your tongue for that and will often be way off mark! Get the items tested properly and/or replace with ones you know actually ARE working. You would be surprised how often a bulb/fuse looks good but won't work and they are so simple to test and replace.

The question is why would you want to have video appearing on the infotainment system whilst the vehicle is in motion?

I reckon somewhere between 30 and 50% of UK registered vehicles change owners within 6-12 months as part of the "ex demonstrator" tax fiddle. BCA runs closed auctions where nearly new vehicles with low mileage are returned by the fleet companies, hire companies, group employees, their extended families and everyone else they can attract by the giveaway deal in accordance with the conditions (6-12 months, 3-6K miles), these are for Ford or VW or Audi or Skoda etc only vehicles and the only bidders allowed are the main dealers from those groups, been going on for decades and yet every month we read of people convinced they have struck a superb deal on the sales directors personal car.

So I got the 6V0 part for £5.02 and works a treat. The parts guys were more miserable in real life then on the phone, so I didn’t bother to ask why there’s two part numbers and £4 difference

Hi, I just wanted to inform anyone who is interested, that this genuine item, from Skoda, is available from the main dealerships from less then a fiver, despite others selling them for a tenner or even more, PLUS postage. That is one heck of a mark up! Anyway, I purchased one for my Fabia and it fits ok, just a little close to the bonnet cable, which with a little wiggle of the filler neck, means it will open fine but if you can't be bothered, opens with a wiggle. The cap opens to form a funnel, which helps prevent overspill of fluid, which often goes straight over the battery earth strap, on my car at least. I also slackened the earth, twisted it round on its fixing point (It was set at say, 12 o/clock, I reset it at 11.45). That gave just a little more space, too. (I was in the process of whipping off my battery and charging it at home, so had spanners handy). The silicone cap replaces the hard blue plastic one quite easily, with no need for any tools and takes just a minute but if you are fussy and want to move the bits I moved, it will take around 5-10 mins to do, at most. I think they look a little hit and miss but in real terms, as do the normal plastic ones but they are a handy little bit of kit and may well fit other cars with similar sized necks. (50mm, I think and have seen on the 'Bay that they fit some Range Rovers, etc). Part number 6V0 955 485