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Well 3 years down and 90,000 kms or 56,000 miles - This year the car was relatively stable mechanically wise - I did have an issue with the injector loom and just after leaving the car at Dave's the whole family got Covid so I didn't need the car anyway !! The price of second hand cars at the minute is unprecedented - It was the case that any car with an NCT commanded €700 - Now that has gone to €1500. What puts people off a 07 or before car here is the engine cc based tax. The price of diesel is really shocking and is set to continue for the foreseeable. The original intention was drive until the test was up then get rid for sommit cheap again and run it until the test was up - Any mechanical failures and get rid but that plan has now well and truly fallen by the wayside !! My insurance has gone down to a more acceptable level and this coming year its down to €633 Fully comp - Must be my age Now wheres that light pod again !! 2021-2022

I guess he is not lying. 80 weeks is still at least 44 weeks.

Pleasant evening

Every car I’ve ever had since ‘lane assist’ was invented has had this option deactivated. Absolutely crap. Anyone who relies on this technology doesn’t deserve to hold a driving licence. At best it’s bordering pointless, at worst it’s bloody dangerous.

Seat need to hand over the semi conductors 🤣

Ordered a Seat Arona for my wife in mid March. Has a build week assigned for 18th April. Crazy how some cars are so quick….

I notice the car is a 2017. If it's on the original battery and you're getting issues with the stop/start, I'd get the battery tested properly, and suspect you need it replaced.

A couple of shots from Brands Hatch today, apologies for the grunge look.

Thank you. Your car is looking really nice, I need to do quite a bit more to get it to the same standard as yours. I've done some more this week, I've had a weeks holiday off work but had a bad cold so didn't get anywhere near as much done as I'd have liked to. I finally got round to taking the stickers off and giving it a quick clean. I got carried away and forgot the before photo of the sides of the car before I started taking the stickers off. The back one came off easily with the heat gun warming the adhesive and wd40 to remove the residue. You can't tell it was ever there. The sides also came off easy enough but the paint is a slightly different colour underneath if you look carefully. I realised I had run out of car shampoo/snowfoam so took it to the local car wash, they don't do a bad job and I just wanted it "cleaner" to see what the paint is like The paint is faded but if I compound and polish it it'll be loads better, before that though it needs decontaminating It's very hard to get the camera to focus on it but the whole car is covered it tiny orange dots of rusty iron particles embedded into the paint. I did a test with some clay bar and it took a ridiculous amount of effort to clean a tiny patch, it's obviously not the way to go about it. Then I realised the wheel cleaner that turns red on contact with iron would be the stuff to use. I've been meaning to get hold of some autosmart red 7 for a while so that's the plan...

Another one, with the Veccy B. This must have been one of the earliest examples as well. Taken at Aird Donald Caravan Park in Stranraer, c.1996.

You needed the paint to hold them together, same for many other makes and models though. These films and TV programs of the 60s and 70s with all the cars very shiny and pristine when most were dirty and rusty. Vauxhalls were even worse in the early 70s for rust, same with the Datsuns that held them back otherwise the British car makers would have gone down the toilet earlier than they did.

It's a lot of oil! Probably just out of spec of even the ridiculous quoted figures by vw / skoda as acceptable. It used to the the Gen 2 ea888 2.0L and 1.8 tsi that were the problem oil burners. But I have seen a few posts on the later diesels in mk3s on here. Do some searching. pretty sure it was a piston / ring problem(s). Assuming as you say, no external leaks, and turbo is ok, that's most likely. What oil change history does it have? Long life service intervals?

My dad had a viva in 70s ,i used to watch him try to mend it as kid every weekend ,hence i have a large repatoir of foul language thanks to that viva .

Well, I don't know if it is a good idea, you usually need a new pair. I had the same problem when only one was broken, kinda like blocking the movement. I disassembled and repaired it exactly like in the @Lutz's video and everything works perfectly now. There was some kind of substance in the bearing and motor, just cleaned it and the work was done.

Worth sharing the scan with the experts here even if there are no battery related codes - there could be other issues that are having a bad effect.

I think this is the first time I've ever seen one. ETA: reminds me of and old HA Viva a mate had in the mid-70s, the passenger could lift the foot mat and polish their boots on the front tyre as the car went along.

The 2-door Nova saloon my Grampa had. Not something you see kicking about anymore.

I suspect you're going to have to do a fault code scan with OBD11, VCDS or similar to get more information on the cause.

Petrol or diesel, the vRS is available as either a TSI or TDI and both are 2 litre.

Cheers mate! I never thought I'd ever own a white car, but I think it looks sharp as. I went and test drove a 125tdi just to get a feel for the RS Octavias as there weren't any local petrol ones available to inspect locally that day. I didn't think it would be punchy enough to ***** my interest....and now I own it 😂

You shelled out on a remap and on a 'Performance filter'. It is then sometimes the case you have to shell out on finding out why there can be an issue because you changed from the Manufacturers Engine Management. I have no issue with Remaps, but i had with REVO that did a crap mappjng for 1.4 TSI / TFSI Twinchargers, and also the one SuperChips did, yet some swore by it and them.

Assuming you have summer tyres, there will be 3 readings on the tyre pressures chart : lightly loaded, lots of luggage and an eco setting The chart is based on adults of about 70kg and something like 15kg per suitcase. So Fully loaded with 5 adults and luggage adding about 300-400kg. However 5 children will be about half of this so I would suggest going midway between the normal and loaded setting. There really isn’t any advantage to going higher, what (very) marginal fuel saving will be more than offset in costs of maintaining the tyres because you won’t wear the tread 100% evenly if over inflated. Remember for a big heavy vehicle like this you need to be swapping the tyres front-back at intervals (the handbook suggests something like every 9000 miles), but in practice anything upto about every 14000 that fits in with when you have chance to do it (or when it is being serviced). Of course if you are driving other peoples children around for a living, using summer tyres in winter is very bad idea, so just get the tyres moved when you do seasonal changes. (Modern eco summer tyres are not designed to work in cold rain, frost, sleet, snow etc). You will either need a set of winter wheels & tyres, or dump the tyres the car came with and buy set of all season tyres, or do nothing and expect to skid or crash in winter weather.

Used to have a pair of beige ones which are now consigned to the big box of spare bits. However, I fair fancied having a black one and when one came up for a tenner I bought it.

It’s a Skoda vrs 2 litre engine 98,000

Hi there, Whether that car is a good deal or not depends on the cars condition, service history, trim level etc and is something you need to find out from the owner or by seeing the car in person then comparing with similar vehicles for sale. From my understanding, the things to look for are: full service history (oil changed every 10-12k miles or 1 year), evidence of the cambelt and water pump having been changed within the last 5 years and 75k miles (I think). Also at that mileage I would imagine the egr valve has been changed or does not have much life left so look to see that's been changed. From the research I did before buying my superb overall they appear to be a pretty reliable car but I am sure there are some more experienced forum members who wil be able to offer more in depth advice as I have only ever worked on vehicles as an amateur.

You don't say what engine you have, how many miles its done etc. There are quite a few threads on this subject which can be found using the search facility.

EDIT. After seeing the above post. So now you tell us. This is a possible issue with Remaps. It can be an issue and sometimes you need that removed if the issues after one can not be resolved. Maybe go put in Tesco Momentum 99 or Shell v-Power Nitro+ The Superchips remap was suited to the use of a higher octane petrol was it not. So 97/99 ron as there is no 98 ron in the UK as 'Tuning Companies' like APR, REVO, Superchips show on the 'Might get improved ps/ Nm' charts. The E5 Esso Super unleaded should not be an issue, but no harm going out and putting in a tankful from someplace else. Hopefully it is not a Fuel Filter issue. ********The spark plugs are not due a replacement but all 4 inspected is sensible.************* First you need checked if any Fault Codes are showing.

Oh and I fitted a Pipercross lifetime panel filter a few weeks ago. I've checked the pipes and everything under the bonnet this morning and all secure. The car was remapped by Superchips mobile guy back in December but has been running fine. Had it been on the move, maybe my thoughts would have turned to that first. However it started while simply sat there in park.

? How many miles has the car done? Has it had Servicing recently, needed spark plugs changed, the air filter done or anything else? ? Have you bought fuel recently, any chance of a mis-fuel? If you can get the AA out to read any fault codes and it costs nothing then good. The responder can check the spark plugs if there are Mis-fires logged, or they can check anything else. If you have a Mobile Diagnostic done will the person then be able to replace the spark plugs if required or the coils or any sensor?

Don't waste your money, those parts won't do anything on a turbodiesel which is why nobody makes anything for it. A good remap and a turbo upgrade is the key to more power on your engine.

I admire your confidence in Halfords, but don't share it - from personal experience over many years combined with posts on multiple car forums the competence of Halfords can be at best sketchy, so they're not a supplier I'd trust to do any work on cars of mine, parts yes but work no for me.

View this on computer, not phone, and click on the sideways arrows button in the far right column of the row containing 6U0 906 265E. All equivalent part numbers will appear in a pop-up. control unit for air-con. - Felicia(FEL) [EUROPA 2000 year] (7zap.com)

More mods going on today! Whiteline rear anti roll bar with the appropriate adjustable drop links and a Forge side quick shifter, very excited to drive the car with these on!😁😁😁😁😁😁

The original sensor was made by NGK. This confirms it. According to their catalogue, replacement for 6U0906265E is OZA457-I1

I'd suspect driver's side front wheel then, it feeds the wheel speed back to the ECU for that sort of thing on most VAG's.

For yourself calculate a minimum 1 year when ordering a car at Skoda, no matter which model. I am still waiting for a Scala sinds 7/21 without any info.

About to place my order next week for for an IV SEL Combi with a few extras. Dealer is saying at least 44 week wait

Problem with all new cars seems to be extended delivery times, and mostly the dealer can’t give you an accurate date anyway. Prices of second hand cars are high mainly because new cars are so difficult to get. Only option is to identify a number of new cars you might like then check the dealers to see what there is available from stock - but inevitably you will have to compromise on exact model/spec. Alternative is to soldier on with the car you have until supply issues ease - late 2023? - but then second hand value of your existing car will drop. As you say 1st World problem but still frustrating.

Car is nice, infotainment is utter tripe.

It can be a little fiddly, the screen is that... a screen. The radio itself is located behind the dash and is located inside the glovebox so you will need to remove that if you need to remove the whole unit. Try the keys in different ways and it should release the locks. it doesn't pop out so you will need to lever it out. Removing the boot handle you need to firstly remove the boot pull using the a torx screwdriver, then you use a trim removal tool to remove the plastic boot skin, then you just need to pop out the handle / switch.

*glances at my VR gaming setup nervously* So when can I buy a suit? Anyway, I'm always the early adopter for tech related stuff, EV happens to be the most expensive item as it is a whole car. I would never be interested in cars, they are just things moving me from A to B.

Decided to try the grille surround white rather than black, think I prefer it tbh.

If you're planning to fit the front flaps using all fixing points then you'll need a drill. The lower inner fixing uses a push fit clip (provided with the flaps) after drilling through the inner wheel arch liner.

Just an update. Did put a sheet of cardboard under the engine after a car journey and no drips. Also been monitoring the level, which has stayed the same. So can only assume it was an airlock as suggested. Many thanks for the advice given here, I was panicking to start with. It shows these forums work. Cheers, Tim

Just as an additional comment; if you've disabled stop/start, it will not coast. That's the case with my MY19 272. (@Nick_H that's the 272 with exhaust flaps in case you forgot 😝😂)

I ordered my mudflaps from Skoda parts Ireland That was pre-Brexit, I think delivery is a wee bit more expensive since we left the EU. I just can't believe the price of mudflaps in this country and then the cost of fitting! Took me 5mins per wheel. If you order them from Skoda when buying a new car, the fitted price is crazy expensive. As per above, the front's are so easy - just turn the steering wheel full lock. The rears? a 90 degree screwdriver adapter is the trick. When in stock, Lidl sell these for around £3.99 - I'm sure you can buy them cheaper than this: 90 degree attachment or better still wrench bit holder I too have never seen a Kodiaq without a plastic wheel arch trim but be careful if you're a Karoq owner. Some Karoqs have plastic trims others like our Edition do not. Are they worth it? As per above, a little protection is better than none. I also noticed they prevent tar from being thrown up and sticking to the bodywork. ( I hate cleaning that off ). Hope that helps.

Ooooh that is awfy clean looking. I'm aptly green with envy.

Hope this all works out mate, be one of a kind bud.

Last update for now. I've finally got the interior looking presentable. I've mixed and matched a few sets of seats and door cards to get to this stage. I still need to swap over some front seat base foams, but over all its 1000x better then the tip it was when I got it.

Or take your hands from your pocket and start repairing them, as I did (for less than £15).