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Now now if you can't be constructive best to stick to the lego.

I'm very impressed with the fuel efficiency of mine (2.0TDI manual); over the 21,000 and a bit miles since I've had it I'm currently showing an average of 68mpg based on fill-to-fill using Fuelly, with the max mpg recorded at 73.5. My previous Mk3 Superb (1.6TDi manual) only got around 56mpg average, which I thought was quite good at the time, but doesn't compare to this. Given the cost of fuel at the moment it's apparently costing me 11.8p/mile which is comfortably under the HMRC rate for company car drivers (13p/mile for up to 2 litre diesel) so I'm not losing money doing work miles, which is good!

Had an hour between the end of work and needing to head to football, so good excuse to get her in and have a quick check over and rescan of the ECU for fault codes. Everything topside was good; coolant exactly the same, no splatters of oil and cam belt tensioner smack bang on the middle of the indicator. Hooked up the very expensive Snap-On machine and started a full scan whilst I chucked her up in the air. First up was to file down and exhaust clamp that is making contact on the near side rear flexi brake pipe to hard brake line union when the exhaust is hot. I had the same thing happen after the rolling road day down in Portsmouth a few years ago. Must have changed the final seated position of the exhaust after taking it off the turbo at the weekend. Anyway, the biggest reason I’m checking the underside is to see if I’ve stopped the oil leak. Had a hospital appointment before work this morning, 15 minutes drive there and no drip of oil on the floor as I left. So I was hopeful it was gonna be clean…. As you can see m, not quite the case. Compare the first image below against the last picture of the turbo above and you can see there is more oil on the shell of the turbo. No dripping, but still. My guess is the oil seal within the turbo is gone. I can’t replace the cartridge as I don’t actually know the technical data of this turbo, whi CNN is a shame as would be much cheaper than a new turbo! Still got a couple of codes in the ECU. Quickly checked the aircon and the system is empty, which could explain the code in that system. The other code I’m convinced is related to the alternator load wire. I actually cut off the entire mate and female connector block with extra wires so I can extend them and stop it happening again. Zee is out Friday evening so gonna have another check of everything, change the oil and filter, then crack out my vag-com lead and take a look at the aircon system data, then probably re-has the system if there are no leaks, then check how spot-on the timing actually is as it feels very eager to go.

You. (nice way of putting it btw...........So you lot.........) If you went shopping in Tesco and put a tin of beans in your basket, but then changed your mind and put it back on the shelf, but it fell on your foot a moment later. Who would you blame for that. Would that be Tesco's fault too???

But probably not your true speed? You can use a speed app on your phone, held by a passenger, to record a true accurate speed. Mine is 74 at a true 70mph?

Hi Folks, Just did the turbo cleaning with the Wynns stuff. I looked at the vanes before cleaning and to be honest they didn't look that dirty, but there's a definite improvement in the running, it idles much better quieter too, and the pickup from tickover is better, the shuddering is still there, but much less pronounced. Next will be the DPF clean, and I may put some EGR cleaner in after that. I'll keep you informed. Thanks, Alan.

You really need to check out some reliability and satisfaction surveys before you claim that. On paper, maybe. In reality, not a chance.

You're getting the wrong one then... mine is great fun to drive 😎. And it looks a damn sight better than a lot of cars out there, which will look dated as soon as the latest 'trends' for cars moves on.

It is quite normal that the oil in a diesel engine can look black (be black) not long after an oil change even if the engine had a flush at the Oil & Filter change. ? How many miles has the engine done?

Big selection here. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=VW+Engine+Cover+Grommet&i=automotive&crid=1WTJGYT0G6O8R&sprefix=vw+engine+cover+grommet%2Cautomotive%2C60&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

For the next 21 years get in and out of the car using the passenger door then the wear on all the components, lock mechanism, hinges etc will be evened out.

Here is the part number if anyone interested in finding an alternative 3V0905217AWHS

Why does the word "fault" even have to come into it? Your action, your responsability, end of story. If you had parked at the filling station and the Tesco sign fell down and damaged your car it would be their responsability. I blame decades of accident chasing compo adverts, everything always has to be someone elses fault.

There is nothing fancy about the locking device and the pumps will be used hundreds of times a day. If it is a a common thing the staff would know and it would not only be at the one pump unless it is faulty.

Was the holder broken, if not it can only be your fault for not putting it back in properly. Unless I'm missing something else?

Still beyond me.

Bluetooth OBD2, Torque App on an Android phone or tablet, window mount and view - subject to correct data being reported - real time boost. The vacuum dial shows boost when turbo working, obviously tick-over on screen dump.

UK ENGINE COVER GROMMET CLIP CONNECTOR FOR VW AUDI SKODA SEAT 07C103226 | eBay Any good? I agree but had to source some for our Octavia a while back and it took me some time to work out what they were called too!

Small point. A FMDSH is a history of the servicing and maintenance done but no guarantee of the Services done to the Manufacturers Recommendations. So a 2015 / 7 year old car that has done 130,000 miles to manufacturers recommendations will have had the brake fluid changed in 2018 & 2020. Oil & filters changes at least 6 times. Pollen filter changed maybe 3 times. The Air filter maybe once but possibly twice or more. The fuel filter changed.

Thanks Guys, much appreciated. The car has 130000miles on it, but has a full main dealer service history.

Doesn’t really bother me. Never keep ANY car longer than 3 years. I’ve always got cover for recovery, breakdown and cost. In fact, unable to remember any of my cars in the last 20 years having any issues? Not selling it to me

Glad it was of use and interesting to see the deliberations on purchasing. Mine's a company car so I basically get a budget to spend on a car, therefore for me it's more about whether it will cost me more in the differing economy and fuel costs as to whether I went for diesel or petrol, rather than making back the extra outlay. At the time I was doing around 30k a year so diesel was a clear winner but as I'm doing slightly less now and the difference in cost between diesel and petrol is (currently at least) so large it may make a difference in 18 months when the car's up for changing.

Allspace and Terraco both really not to my taste. They are both available with the 245 4wd DSG at a far better price than the VRS though.

The only area I consider the Kodiaq behind comparable class rivals is hybrid tech. All VW group cars seem way behind on hybrid options for some reason. Everything else it’s consistently rated as one of the most refined and comfortable vehicles in the class. Still today by motoring publications it’s only really beaten consistently by the XC90, Q7 and Land Rover Discovery Sport. Those are all premium brand cars and I mean if you ever want to know quality sit inside an XC90. You literally won’t want to leave. It’s absolutely stunning and the best car I’ve ever been inside of. Doesn’t compare to any non Audi VW group product at all. But it’s double the price or more. You have the newer versions of the Santa Fe and Sorento that add in some slightly newer tech but they are both designed for the US market mainly so to my eyes are a bit ugly (unlike the Sportage and Tucson which are great). But the Kodiaq is in my view the best 7 seat SUV available for under 40K or thereabouts. And the best kitted out one and best looking one. That’s subjective, some prefer the Taracco, but not to my eyes. Allspace is nice but I think will end up over 40K with options to match the sportline.

You can understand that because it is going to be them losing money as the Trader. They took in a bad trade in or bought it, they are the ones with a big problem. They sold a lemon to you. How long have you had it? You have consumer rights which beat a crappy warranty. Best get the car back to them then. They sold you the one with a gubbed engine.

To @Almosu - It is normal Engine oil to be black on Diesel Engine

63k on a 2.0 petrol vrs 2011 and have put 700 miles on it as hospital and weekend use as work vehicle rest of time. Warmed up and as manual dipstick instructions 1.5 ltr of VW spec oil has evaporated. Soot on exhaust tips makes me think it has burnt it. I have contacted trader who says warranty company- but £500 limit per claim and local garages seem to not want to get involved. The warranty company are saying account with Halfords auto centre's- is it worth getting their opinion if, I don't have to pay out?

It's a used car so not long :-). Took about 3 days only for prep and was also serviced prior to us picking it up. It's only done 5.6k miles so is like new.

But I think you are mistaking premium for quality. The Mercedes GLS is an absolutely beautiful and quality 7 seater SUV. It’s amazing. It’s starts at £74K. The GLB is a stretched GLA, built in Mexico. When you consider that it costs £35K at starting point or thereabouts and obviously that includes the Mercedes badge premium, what quality do you think they are really using for a seven seater SUV costing well under half their actual premium one? It looks nice inside but there are definite corners cut and is the build quality as good as the Kodiaq? No. Nor is the practicality. Or the space. The thing with premium badge cars is if they introduce a model at an equivalent price to less premium badge cars it means they’ve cut costs to get it out. They don’t give them away.

Cam position sensor probably, you should check the wiring.

Freedom Lite, I really appreciate your latest post. Unfortunately, I did hover over both names and I did get the box to appear but no "message" button appeared so couldnt send a message. Both my wife and I tried this and she is definitely more computer proficient than I am . This will be our computer system once again showing its shortcomings, we have had a lot of trouble with issues like erratic broadband and is certainly no reflection on what you have provided. It has proved impossible to diagnose the problem so rectification is equally impossible. So i am not going to try to take this any further. i will, though, be following your tips on testing the rear belts, starting tomorrow when we go out for lunch. They are very full and very useful. Although I am closing this post I have learnt a lot about the car seatbelt warning system and some of it has been a real surprise so most definitely worthwhile from my point of view. Thanks to everyone who posted.

It can only have been resting on the holders and you didn't get it quite sat in properly. Unfortunately it fell out rather than sliding in, after a short period of time. An unlucky accident. If you had engaged it fully and properly, I cannot see any way it can have come out.

Two weeks off from the swimming and let me tell you something, I can ****ing tell, I'm exhausted after my first night back.

Did you try asking Wallis? Could'nt resist 😁

Has the switch any identification marks? It is probably a standard switch. £58 seems grossly excessive. If the switch is marked I can look into a possible source.

You'll get some guidance here: 3V | OBDeleven But note the cheaper version only lets you use pre-written mods and not code your own. (Some experts shudder at the thought of what these might do to your car's software, but the two I've used on my Karoq have been fine.) Chris

No. I've never been to Cairn Lodge or Gloucester services though.

You can with OBD11

No, not original Skoda ones, but AliExpress ones. I had to cut/mould it to fit around the Rieger side skirt, otherwise there is no way it would fit.

You can order the complete kit. https://haldexparts.co.uk/products/2000884-borgwarner-850ml-original-oil-haldex-filter-kit-4th-generation-111358-oem

Check the paint code on the sticker in the boot.

I don't have anything to hand, currently. I'll have to check the garage. I also, don't have any other pictures.

As far as I can remember. In order to stay open, it'll need the small little curled spring in order to spring it open. I've seen that you've replied to another post. So you may already know this. I'll try to see if I had nay photos of when I started to fix these a couples years back. This is the part that opens and closes the holder, as the grooves determine if it opens or closes with each press. Most of the time it is this part that breaks. EDIT I found my pictures, I hope it helps.

Try to reset settings. Perhaps there's a bug from an update.

Climatic switch only works on 4 and you sorted it out, does that mean you changed the resistor? And if so you may have disconnected the passenger air bag to get to it? If this is the case then it needs to be reset with VCDS as the ECU will store a fault code.

To @Rkdee - This is dirty one and clean one

Got two OTA updates last week. Didn't noticed anything changed, but mine worked perfectly from the beginning. Software version hasn't changed after the updates. The first one was larger, second one took just few minutes. Attaching photos with my Software version.

The shallow steel bottomed sumps are 11mm lower in overall height than the standard cast aluminium sumps so yes, despite your ever present sarcasm the volume of liquid that it can hold will be less. You will of course know with your expert knowledge that the shallow sumps do not counteract this reduction in capacity by being wider at any point, or longer at any point. Again using your massive brain, putting a fixed amount of oil into a car that has changed from alloy to shallow sump will see it register high on the dipstick. If it takes 4.3 litres of oil in a standard sump to get it to the max mark on the dipstick, then it obviously follows that you'll need less oil in a shallow sump to get to the same max mark. You will of course know exactly how far above the static oil level the crank is on a PD i assume, especially with the endless knowledge you bestow all over? But you know all of this so why come across with such blatent sarcasm? It's not funny now, and never has been. Your belittling manner gets tiring tbh, especially when folks are trying to help.