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Simple explanation: petrol cars don't need AdBlue 😂

I give up waiting for B6DCC, delay shipping again n again. Stocklist keep pushing the date , order since 2022. while B16 dcc is easily available and one Cupra owner got this B6 DCC within 1 week of order. i bite the bullet and get kw dcc as b16 is way to harsh for daily drive. only on kw dcc is the prices , cost extra 1k bs b6 dcc with lower spring. also kw dcc take note of the rear collar as the rear is too low, only half a finger. While front is fine two finger. feedback to kw and pending a new collar extender and awd rear spring to lift the car to two fingers. let talk about drive feels Normal no longer floaty feeling but going over humps still can feel behind jumpy. comfort is sport minus feel ( compare to stock sport) enjoy driving with comfort if u want a relax drive. or with family. sport is good. Not so harsh like vrs sportline or cupra type. i didnt test b6 dcc on a superb but on a cupra leon. I like the curpa comfort mode drive feel as it like kw dcc sport feeling on superb. Personal i feel b6 dcc with lower spring is perfect for superb as vs cost over kw dcc. overall review on kw dcc is good and mean for street comfort mind set. Took for a spin and done a few S and E brake. Nobody roll. If u want more sporty look or driver can lower the car.

My octy arrived two days ago at the dealer. On Tuesday I go to dealer pick up my car. Not so long waiting dealer said to me. I purchased on January 31. Counting last hours to sit and drive this babe 😁

Quick update: With 'Phase 2' quickly approaching which will include remaps, exhaust and regular trips to the track I decided to leave the car with JBS for a week to get everything in tip top condition. The car has had a tiny intermittent misfire at idle for pretty much a year now so we decided to change all 4 injectors, the car now feels much more responsive, more powerful AND I got over 40 MPG driving home from JBS without even trying, is it possible that the old injectors were faulty to a point where they were impacting responsiveness, power and even fuel economy?! I hope someone more knowledgeable comes along and clarifies. While changing the injectors they also checked for carbon build up and their comments were "not factory fresh for sure, but no actual build up either, just very little signs of carbon" which I found a bit surprising considering it is now 10 years old and has 56k miles, but great to know the carbon build up issue isn't as much of an issue as I thought. Overall very happy and stage 2 can't come quick enough! Also very much looking forward for SMF and fluidampr conversion which I THINK is going to be the next visit to JBS.

Who is doing the alignment? What kind of alignment are they doing? What equipment are they using? Did you get a print out? Its either a failed suspension component or bad geometry

Found in one of the numerous pages from this topic: Please, don't ask me which one! 😄 However, here is the mod: Easy entry activation: 36 - Seat Adjustment Drivers Side > 07 Coding Byte 3 > Bit 1 - Easy entry : Set it to 1. Note : I didn't have the boxes to tick, thus I had to modify the Byte manually. 00000000 to 00000010 in my case (⚠️ bit numbering starts on the right, form 0. First bit on the left is #7) Byte 9 > Bit 6 - Easy Entry front over MMI : Set it to 1. (same note as above) Final adaptation to enable/disable the Easy entry function from the Columbus: 5F - Information-electric > 10 Adaptation Select channel "ENG 122227_ENG 117556 Car Function adaptation - Gen2 Menu_display_seat_configuration" : Select it from 'not active' to 'Active'. Tick "Soft reset" before clicking on "Do it!" button to reboot the Columbus. That's it. Now you'll find the tick box in the following menus / submenus: CAR > Settings > Seats Enjoy...

Hi guys and gals, Long time user and occasional contributor (I wrote a detailed dashcam installation a few years back) Anyway, it's time for the Superb to go. It's in great condition and has served us really well. Advert here on Autotrader with plenty of pics and a short video: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202207318314079 56k miles and looking for £18.5k - one of the cheapest 280's on Autotrader at the moment, given it's an early MK3 model on a 66 plate. Full main dealer service history. Will be serviced and MoT'ed this week. Current All-in service plan (incl servicing/warranty/MoT/breakdown etc) can be extended if new owner wants it. Any questions, ping me a PM, or contact through Autotrader. Roy

If you've not moved it since that pic, you can reset the trip and get three sixes on that as well.

Only 666 miles to go until I summon the big man doonstairs.

I have a Fabia III from new, original battery still fitted at 65K miles. Battery was tested at its 7th service in May and is still good, and it is a lower grade of stop/start battery being an EFB type. First thing I would do is charge the battery with a smart charger but do not connect the charger up to both battery terminals. The type of usage the car gets will also effect the useful life of a battery. It IS worth coding a new battery when one is fitted to the car. Especially if it has different ratings to the replaced one. A lot of batteries faired badly during the lock downs due to covid. Sell other makes as well, Exide and Lucas that I know of. Thanks, AG Falco

Congrats. Yes, the wait was very short, which is not a surprise. People that pay more, get the car faster.

Halfords been installed new 096 agm battery runs perfect now charger unplugged also only fault I found is p173400 it seems to be a micro switch not sure I do 500 to 1000 miles a week so I’ll check after every shift so far so good

It's perfectly normal for a new clutch to feel lighter on the pedal. As for the biting point - if it's close to the floor it doesn't sound right. Do you know if they opened up the hydraulics? If they did they might not have bled it properly.

I would have said so, with the note that I mean that you don't have to press the clutch down far to get enough release to do a shift.

Some images below may be of help

@Joss1733You go to settings and Winter Tyres and cancel or set to some warning speed that suits you. Maybe 100 mph where that would get a ban. Since no Winter Tyres are on that can maybe be used as a different speed from your other Speed Warning you can set on the car. The car does not know what tyres are on, the setting @ 74 mph will have been done by someone in error. Or a glitch with the car and it is set for 119 kp/h Reading the Owners Manual will help greatly.

Usually close to the engine/gearbox where it mates together off top of head.

The Superb uses D3S Xenon bulbs. .....and they're a royal pain in the behind to remove/replace!!

Ah I'd missed that. Ok, I can't recommend someone near you, but look for a place near your home or work that has a Hunter geometry rig and a reputation. Expect a printed result saying what the camber, castor and toe angles were before and are now for all 4 wheels.

Booked in at local ATS for Tuesday. I spoke to a chap who appeared quite knowledgable. Booked in for suspension health check and alignment where they said they can enter reg number on computer and apply manuf spec alignments. I'm annoyed at myself for it happening twice! I'll post back on Tue when they've had a fettle. Thanks all for your input.

Thank you for the photos, Northam.

I would say the difference is mostly aerodynamics, and some effect of mHEV. As said - Ateca with same engine was nowhere near those results. Of course it's a bigger car with worse aerodynamics, but still... MK4 is really very, very good when it comes to aerodynamics with it's Cx of 0,249: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile_drag_coefficient The faster you drive, the bigger difference it makes, both for performance and fuel economy.

75k miles - I've had it from new. Vast majority motorway mileage. My ignorance at fault. I took car in when close to the indicators last time and was shown a similar picutre (but a lot worse) and I was horrified. I bought new ones and they also did the tracking & alignment etc at the time. I watched them do it - albeit I've no clue what they were doing - I work in IT... This time I noticed the tyres were getting low again, back ones too (still pass MOT but winter coming so went for 4). Different garage. Same story - "It's a good job you brought the car in". This was Costco - who don't do alignment (I had a £200 voucher) so I will now take car with new tyres to somewhere else again - not first garage - to get this checked. Again. Just thought I'd ask here. It's alarmingly uneven wear on the very edge. Almost like they've been rubbing. But I got 20k out of them. Bridgestone Turanza. I'm one of those guys who I guess doesn't check the inside edges often enough!!

Your files are old, 07.2013 Mine are 10.2017 revision. They are genuine, just someone probably sold you on eBay I guess, an older version. However, looked at both versions and cannot see any large differences on mobile phone. The instructions are the same, but link's are different. The technician/mechanic brains are able to figure out subtle differences, and also being familiar with the various fasteners will be able to remove faster and more effectively than Joe Public with no training. Just boils down to greater exposure and having seen before I guess.

Those ones you've got are proper double hooked ones though; aren't they? Keep the pressure on each side fairly even and you're sound (do up one side by a turn, then do the other side the same, and only do them enough to release pressure on the 2 spring perches)

To clarify for future readers, you don't need a spring compressor tool for this job under normal circumstances. When installing new dampers, I didn't need compressors. Threaded end of the shaft is long enough to use its own nut to compress the spring. Here are some more explicit pictures to expose the nature of the concluded work. Just after pulling it out. I couldn't cut this without a spring compressor. Also, Bottom mounting nut (no:20) on one side has stripped. It also took the socket of the wrench along with it. I had to cut it too. No:11 was missing one one side. No:4 was missing on both sides. This is a tube shaped spacer to fit inside the rubber bushing. I had to find a metal pipe to cut pieces like that. Just a reminder for future readers; spring compressors are dangerous. There are horror stories everywhere on the net. Beware.

Have you checked whether music can be played off a 'normal' SD card? This will check whether the problem is the SD card reader hardware.

I agree with Zedboy. Blinds have been helpful to provide shade during spells of heat. Remaining time, I have mine open for the fresh air. My kids like the sunroof for looking at the stars when driving at night.

@Snowr0 - I agree with @Breezy_Pete above, particularly about the need for an OEM battery only. If this were true, Skoda would have to state "battery used- $make_and_model" in the build file for every car!

The bit about non-OE batteries not being able to be coded sounds like a blatant lie. Doubt coding would change the situation though. Find a local VCDS owner to do it for you if you want. Quick, easy job I believe, Battery voltage as measured by you, and seemingly confirmed by them does not seem low enough to cause legitimate warnings, I expect there's a minor but irritating fault with the battery management system that they wish to avoid fixing at their cost under warranty.

I have unplugged I phone charger now it can’t be that simple it’s me haha

Water pumps on less recent diesels were notorious for failures, although they usually gave lots of warnings. It was standard practice to change pump with the belt as they were on the same side. The pumps were far less problematic on the small turbo petrol engines although my 1.4tsi pump required replacing at about 50k km at somewhat eye-watering cost and did not include the belt which is on the other side of the engine on my model. WE just paid up local (Adelaide) dealer prices because it caught us at a particularly vulnerable period with a bereavement and we smashed the mileage in their loan car but nothing more than we would have done in ours at the time. I believe all the small petrol engines have a similar layout so I suspect it is on the other side to the belt. Depending on your mileage I'm not sure that pump replacement is really necessary (if it ain't broke etc) and if you are changing the belt just because you are being prompted by your dealer then there are lots of threads suggesting the five year UK term is just a dealer fund raiser. Seven years here in Australia before it was suggested to me by dealer and when I declined he did not push it and even said they had not had any problems reported by others who had also declined. Personal choice though.

Here is an update on the current position. I still could not get my VMware based manual to operate, turns out to be I believe a hooky copy and the producers have been able to identify it online and disable it, which would account for the specific instructions that came with it for installing. So I invested in yet another manual, infact I got the Mk2 and the Mk3 versions for the same money, bargain. Pages are perfectly scanned, the old one I always suspected were scans done from scans, not so this time. Now I have full access to hundreds of pages and all the missing instructions that the pages already kindly supplied by varooom showed the various links to, but still the instructions are not clear enough to proceed without running the risk of breaking some trim parts in the process which I'm not happy in doing, the car apart needing a good valet is in mint condition and I want to keep it that way. So I contacted my dealer and the VWaudi Tech in my city for quotes to supply a new seat belt in colour and fit it, VWaudi Tech, £390 and my dealer £302, so I've booked in with the dealer, who has looked after the car from new and were originally looking at the end of Sept before they could do it. Then they noticed that their records showed it was not only due for an MOT, but also it was time for the brake fluid to be changed, and its service was due in 4 weeks time, so they have now managed to squeeze all 4 jobs in on the 5th Sept, well done them. Its also Tax and insurance time so its going to be an expensive couple of months. I thank all the members for their very kind efforts, but the parts shown in the manual seem to be different to those fitted, and the screws mentioned don't exist and I have other trip panels that sit above the one I need to remove, but that has to be removed first, and the manual makes zero mention of that at all 😲. Now I just need to return the 2nd hand belt for a refund.

Here in UK pano roof makes a big difference to interior light and ambiance... I will pop for ventilation most days... recent 33°+ temperatures has seen electric blind very useful in daytime

Thanks! Good find. That really saved the day. I decided to buy a spring compressor tool after seeing your post. Later, I've found out that, a spring compressor might not be needed BUT not everything goes smooth when working with old cars. Right? I removed both suspension assembly. On the other side they put washers here. They corroded so badly, I couldn't make them released. They were literally welded here with rust. I had to cut the damper's shaft to be able release the spring. If I hadn't bought it, the work would be interrupted at this point. Some of the parts after disassembly. Condition of the springs. Re-assembled.

Ventora. In the nicest possible way suggestions for problems with modern vehicles from experiences with vehicles produced over 50 years ago are not particularly relevant, things like adjustable servo rods dissapeared 4 decades ago for cost savings, servos have been direct acting and integral with the master cylinder since then.

gsmdo- the Vauxhall as in photo came in three flavors.One was a mild mannered 1600cc model. Then there was the 2000 cc model and last was the Ventura at possibly 3litre/3.5 litre. I owned a 2litre model, which had had the servo + master cylinder replaced from a Ventura. First problem was brake fluid leaking into servo from master cylinder seals. ( cue- white smoke from exhaust on braking, and loss of brake fluid ). Next problem was "mal adjustment" of the servo linkage, which after replacement of master cylinder caused brakes to hold on. On of the other problems on this last version of the Bedford power unit was the distributor ,which was mounted on top of the oil pump. Bad seals on the distributor /oil pump meant that the distributor could get oil flooded and cause ignition problems.

Looks like the ceramic coating is still effective👍

Absolutely yes, it had all sorts of issues Really nice car and had done 118k but just small things kept going on it, making it more difficult to drive. climate control wiring has burned out Not ideal with the last couple week’s weather Had a boost solenoid issue It even got vandal damaged whilst I was looking for a new car 😪 poor pug.

Grant Shapps being run over by a driverless car 🤷‍♀️ Oh, sorry. You said the 'worst that could happen'.

If I remember correctly, I think U140600 is normally due to something consuming power when the car is turned off - normally like a dashcam or charger left plugged in. It might be worth finding a garage with some better diagnostic equipment as I doubt that code is related to your issues... Batteries should be coded after fitting as the car does various clever stuff to making charging more efficient. The coding is mostly to reset any learnt values to make sure it can be fully charged and the capacity is correct.

It has been crimped but there is no cable inside so it was crimped onto a micro RG59 cable which is too small for that connector, when the cable was withdrawn it fell off as only the central core was being retained, that or the fitter realised his mistake and used your footwell as a rubbish bin.

Per Marnet mobility website Enyaq will be at least October 2023, with some options taking longer, so some cars ordered today won’t be until early 2024 https://www.marnet-mobility.de/aktuelle-lieferzeiten.html

I think today was my lucky day. I found the little f**ker! Underneath the passenger seat is the control unit thing with the black plastic cover. I pulled this off (which I have done before) and decided I'd also pull the control unit out to see what was underneath. I then found a broken zip tie, which made me wonder if someone had previously run cabling through here and cut the zip ties So I then proceeded to pull the carpet up next to where the plastic cover would be (as pictured) After poking around a bit, I felt something metallic that didn't belong there..............WTF??????? The cause of my near insanity over the last few months is a.....coax connector?!?! In fact, it is a BNC coax connector. Most likely scenario is the previous owner had a UHF radio and they (or the dealership I bought it from) kindly left the connector as a gift when they removed it 🤬 Took the car for a spin and sound is definitely gone! Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread. It's great to see how helpful people are on this forum and truly appreciate your input. Cheers!

Took the picture of CH/LH lights using DRL strip 🙂

Exchange stock update. The following motor modules are packed and ready for rapid dispatch, all for RHD cars: Fabia Mk1 - 6Y2959802 Fabia Mk2 - 6Y1959801 Roomster - 6Y1959801 Polo 9N/9N3 - 6Y1959801 (just front elec windows) Polo 9N/9N3 - 6Y1959801A (all 4 elec windows) Transporter T5 - 6Y1959801 I had a bit of a play installing all (but 1) of the physically mountable units in my 9N3 Polo, and confirmed that a 6Y1959801 from a Roomster does not work properly in a Polo, the up/down controls are reversed, and with one-touch operation programmed the window doesn't go all the way up when requested (apporx 30mm shy). I suspect a Fabia mk2 unit will do similar, will check later and add info. Edit: yes, up/down reversed and doesn't make it all the way up when one-touch programmed. Polo and Transporter modules do seem to be interchangeable with each other according to yesterday's fitment of a T5 module in a 9N3 Polo, although I haven't access to a T5 to try a Polo motor in it. If anyone reading has put a replacement motor from a Polo in a T5 and knows if one-touch operation works properly, I'd be grateful to hear about it. Polo modules are distinguished by having VW240xxxx as the bottom line of the part number label, T5 modules have VW750xxxx instead. If anyone's curiosity is piqued by the above observation about one-touch closure not working with the mismatched Roomster/Polo situation, I'd be glad of someone putting a tape measure up the rear edge of their Roomster (and Fabia mk2) drivers door window to compare the glass height between seals with that of a 9N3 Polo (which I'll add to this post later) edit: 445mm, on 5-door 9N3 Polo. Pete

@Gizmo Could you add me to the list? I’ve HEX-V2 and based in Carrickfergus, Northern Ireland.

Love it, thanks

Worth finding a screw in the good one to get a matching pair?? 😉

I've had Goodyear Eagle F1's on my last 2 cars and had only good experience. On my Audi RS4 they lasted over 15,000 miles - 50% longer than the OE fit Pirelli PZero Rosso, the same as two versions of the Michelin Pilot and only beaten by the Vredenstein Sessanta which made 18,000 miles. On my Octavia after 20,000 miles over 5 years they needed to be replaced not because of wear but because of sidewall cracking, most likely caused by being parked in the strong Devon sun all year round.