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Bingo! Hang on, I'll dust off MS Paint... Right, there we are. So this image is based on how I understand ABS works. I've exaggerated the wheel size difference and only put 4 ABS markers on each wheel, but the principle is sound. The ABS system gets a regular "tick" from each ABS wheel sensor as the ABS marker passes the ABS sensor. When braking, the frequency of the ticks should reduce, because the wheels are rotating more slowly as the car slows down. However, the ABS ticks from each wheel should all come in at roughly the same frequency. (Note, there may well be a speed difference on an axle due to the cornering and the outside wheel rotating faster than the inside wheel. I'm going to disregard that in this example.) The next bit depends on the sophistication of the ABS system, but for this purpose, I'll assume the ABS system is thick as pudding and very basic. If one of the ABS wheel sensors doesn't send a "tick" to the ABS unit, the ABS unit says "Ah ha! That wheel is locked, I'll loose off the brakes a bit until it regains traction. I'll know when it's got traction, as I'll get a tick from the ABS wheel sensor." So it releases the brakes on the locked wheel, get's the "tick" from the now rotating wheel, and then thinks "There we go! All good now, I'll re-apply the brakes." All this happens very quickly. The problem I'm highlighting, is that the extra time between ABS ticks on the larger diameter wheel & tyre combo MAY be enough to cause the ABS to think "I haven't had my ABS wheel sensor tick, the wheel must be locked. I'll release the brakes on that wheel." Now it might not be a problem at all. But also it might be, which is why I mentioned it.

The answer is now in the document... proper head scratcher. TMBMD9NS0K8------.pdf

Certainly one of the big advantages of electric cars will hopefully be the death of this fixed/variable servicing ballocks. Nobody has a f**king clue what’s meant to happen and when from what I read on here. That’s not a dig at the OP btw.

You can do it through live chat on the website - I did this when I purchased ours second hand as I wanted to know what the full spec was and what had been added as 'extras' when purchased by the original owner. They'll need the VIN but were able to respond within a couple of minutes

You'll probably find it's a UK car. They are built in the Czech republic and, from memory the App is pretty useless at identifying 'local' trim levels and often shows the UK SE-L trim as Style. I wouldn't worry about it too much but you can always check the reg etc. on the DVLA website Part are all compatible and mapping can be updated (it's probably been updated by someone who downloaded the wrong set of maps)

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/441688-glow-plug-light-flashing/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5396908

My change i think july if i am not wrong and today i did get this i the shadow is hiding something

Genuine coolant sensor looks to be only around £30, but I'd be highly suspicious that the real issue is contamination of the coolant. Are you having to top up the coolant from time to time?

Sadly thats not how things work, in fact its the opposite. If you keep replacing the part and it keeps failing its a question of 2 things - The part is of a really bad quality every time. Or something ELSE is causing it to fail. I would first be checking the condition and concentration of that coolant, making sure its the correct one for the car and not just rubbish.

Cheers, I am sure that is the latest for the 01xx versions, Now you can back out and reboot to normal mode. Edit: There are 2 releases in the 01xx series - 0155 and 0156 Not applicable to you are 0238, 0276 & 0278 In the 03xx you have 0304 & 0306 I am not sure if the unit is going online to a server, and is reading that 02xx an 03xx series is newer than your 0156 and showing the stupid prompt? You could badger the dealers to "check" and send off what's called a DISS report (iirc) and then this bounces it off to importer, then onto Germany/Factory to suggest a fix. Be something like re-install firmware, or they need to release a possible newer 01xx version that does not check and report 02xx/03xx as updates available!

I have a car from another manufacturer, and i believe that the warranty gives access to a hire car if your own car is off the road. May be worth asking Customer Care.

Skoda Ireland has the 'Style' trim, and their specifications vary compared to those in the UK. Does it have an Irish style number plate? Even if not it could have been originally supplied to an Irish dealer but registered here. I owned a Superb that was purchased and registered in Ireland but brought straight to the UK.

I suggest you change to 225/55R17 size tyres fitted to 7J rims or 245/45R18 fitted to 8J rims. That should help fill the wheelarch gap. With the significantly firmer springs, I would go with 225/55R17 rather than 245/45R18 due to the significantly improved ride that the higher sidewalled 17" tyres will give. This will allow flatter cornering due to the stiffer springs while maintaining a decent level of ride comfort. The narrower tyres will also be lighter which helps handling especially while driving round bumpy corners/bends in the road. You might also want to consider high quality shock absorbers such as Bilstein B6 to go with the stiffer springs. Most aftermarket springs and shock absorbers are aimed at standard ride height, so there's far more availability of parts by sticking to standard ride height. I'm not a fan of lowered cars. It makes the car look like the springs are sagging/broken and/or there's a couple of sacks of potatoes in the boot. It also compromises the suspension travel. The front springs in the "skoda parts catalogue" aren't labelled according to the ride height, however I suspect each front spring is specific to lower ride height or standard ride height or increased ride height. Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance 2 225/55R17 101W XL https://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/goodyear/efficientgrip-performance-2/225/55/R17/W/101/m?tyre=39948126

Sorry, no. No experience of these connectors at all. Some photos from various angles may help someone think of suggestions.

Just remembering that Skoda / VW Customers services is contracted out. So Arse and Elbow can get mixed up.

Yes i know. You go to the Skoda UK website and the contacts. You can send a message and get a reply and ask for a person to speak to. I will leave you to google the page yourself.

The Dealer Principal needs to arrange for his / her dealership to pay for the service. ? Was it the Dealer Principal you spoke with? No point talking to Service Desk Staff or Service / Workshop manager. Get the Organ Grinder. Easy enough for the cars record to be checked. Chancers & incompetents.

@IainST Welcome to the forum. Just contact Skoda UK and get all the info from the system. When exported to where from the factory and was that into the UK, so by them & First Registered in the UK. 3 years manufacturers Warranty from the Delivery, Registration, or PDI. Maybe even an Extended Warranty was bought at the time before first registration so 4 or 5 years. EDIT. PS. Obviously whatever the cars V5 says the car is an Export. Even if that is just from the Czech Republic/ EU into the UK/ EU as was, so different countries totally.

I think that some will be in the minority like yourself, maybe 0.1% would like this (to pull back the wizard's curtain) I am lucky in that I have spent years tinkering with ETKA, and all that time I have wondered why there was never a toggle switch for changing a specification(s) of a car to see what retrofits can be done. The holy grail would be seeing both ends of the "machine" where you input human readable car specs to most of the population and the geeks can get the PR codes out the other end, that would be a retrofitters wet dream. @PetrolDave Yip type approval is a nightmare, sometimes VAG show these in their files, pages and pages of.

Not only manufacturing but also getting Type Approval, with so many options and variants the cost of Type Approval soon mounts up. This is why car companies like Kia have always offered a limited number of specs and options.

I know I'm odd, but I remember reading the VIN decode on my vehicle and thinking how useful it would be if car dealers allowed you to spec new cars you intended to purchase via the options on the VIN decode. I mean, there's stuff on there you don't even know existed. Sadly the reverse seems to be the case, and car spec variations are being trimmed down to make manufacturing easier.

Had a call from the dealer today - car apparently is on a boat and should be at the dealer mid-late October. (have updated spreadsheet) Will make it about 16 months from order to arrival - compared to last car ordering in 2013/2014 which took 4 months.

I put the details of a very similar cars into the erWin online digital service system a few days ago, it was a 2017 2L TDI in for service and 5 year cam belt. The Skoda DSS said the cam belt was due in 2036 or 240000 km, circa 150000 miles. So VAG Germany basically say the belt is good for 20 years but VAG UK say 5, a workshop filler… RIP Queen Elisabeth II

Not VRS specific (my car is a VRS) but figured i'd ask the question anyway. Mine has always been on variable servicing. It's a PCH car so came on variable from the supplying dealer and anticipated annual mileage was around 15k pr annum (pre covid). At it's second service ( Additional scope - 26k and 31 months old) my local dealer had put it on fixed servicing without telling me and it's now due an unexpected oil service after three months and 9k (now back to travelling a lot more after Covid). I've spoken to the dealer today who denied changing it and stated that it would always have been on fixed servicing (although they couldn't explain why it had managed 15k and 18 months before it needed it's first oil change). They have told me they can change it back but I'd need to pay for an oild change now and they'd do it. I argued that if it had been left on variable it wouldn't be due one for approx another 6-9k (around 15-18k after last service) and that the car would be returned to the lease company in six weeks without costing me another £180 for a pointless oil change. The conversation with my dealer didnt go well. Needless to say the car wont be going back to that dealer which is a shame as up until now they've serviced my last few Skoda's. I guess this is a long winded way of asking if anyone else has experienced Skoda changing their Octy's to fixed servicing when they were previously on variable? I cant help thinking it's a way of making sure customers now come back every year rather than possibly every two years.

Superb MK2 Estate - Towbar fitment I am using PF Jones Brink fixed towbar and vehicle specific electrics. This has been a mammoth job so far. The instructions and technical support has been brilliant if anyone is thinking of buying from them. Towbar - simple to fix on if you have a good set of tools and torque wrench. Lights electrics - bit more challenging, all fitted and running from the boot, down the right to the fuse box at the side of the drivers steering wheel. Hooked onto the canbus network. Power electrics - instructions just say fit to the battery power and run down the left side ok the car to the boot 🫣 Glovebox out, found a grommit under the windscreen to feed the wires through and removed all the trim down the left to the boot. These wires have now connected to the lights electrics and is monitored by a battery regulator relay. Jobs left - Coding the electrics, this is the moment of truth 🤣 found a very nice man to help locally with his VCDS. Put the trim back into the car and cut the bumper to fit around the towbar. I got quoted £400 to fit all of this and I wanted to have a go at fitting myself. I have really enjoyed doing this so far and would urge anyone to have a go. But make sure you have a good set of tools, torque wrench, wire strippers and access to VCDS. Otherwise, pay someone else 🤣

My first suggestion would be to try new cables as they can be notoriously bad.

ALTAIR 19" alloy wheel for OCTAVIA IV Rim size: 7.5J x 19" ET 48 5E3071499 8ZB Silver 5E3071499A HA7 Anthracite 5E3071499B FL8 Black metallic https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/hlinikove-disky/c/alloyWheels?q=%3ApriceAsc%3AcarType%3AOctavia%2BIV%2B%282019%2B%29&page=0

I would want to know if it is Australian Spec and came to the UK for use in Australia or anyplace else with the UK Military or anyone else and never got there. There were stories of Audi's and a curious case of cars in Australia a few years back with the same VIN's. No idea what happened on that one. It is not just the usual of someone asking on here how they can get MPH digital on the speedo and being told to change to Australian for the lights. EDIT. My bad, not Australia, unless maybe some ended up there.

Just got words that my Ocatavia Estate has shipped, and should (hopefully) be ready for pick up in about 2 weeks Ordered March 2021, so it has a long wait 😕

It’s in the owners manual also..

It’s not a biggie, I’m using the wife’s very tinny Juke for a few days. I’m more concerned that this might be a lemon and cause more problems in the near future. I’ve not personally known an alternator to fail since the late 80’s. Certainly not one that’s 3 years and 26000 miles old. Is it likely to be just the alternator, and if not what chance the selling dealer honouring the 30 day exchange?

@Bugginbob You never said if a petrol or diesel vRS? Same oil though. VW508 00 / 509 00. If a TSI. If they had VW502 00 to use, 5w 40 FS then they are the kind of place i like for a TSI, but that is for when you ask for not Long Life oil. So the car should have got VW508 00 / 509 00 which is 0w 20 FS IV. Fixed or Variable Servicing. I would have been happy with VW504 00 / 507 00, So 0w 30 FS III or 5w 30 FS III. But we will know with the part number.

Great! fab to hear there's another one that's doing so well !

That is extremely cheap, mind you it was a few years ago. Most places charge around £6-800 for the job now including water pump. I personally charge my customers just short of £450 if its for the 1.6 or 2.0 tdi engine including a new water pump and coolant replacement. (Watch out cause a lot of dealers will quote without water pump then add that on after) EDIT: Regarding actual time scales and everything - Skoda for the UK market recommend every 5 years. Can it last longer? Probably Will it last longer? Probably Would I like to test it and find out? No thank you I would stick to the 5 years personally and not try and scrimp on something that could end up costing a lot more in the long run.

So they say alternator and not just battery. ? Why have they not arranged a courtesy car. You have a warranty do you not? If you get stuck call Skoda Assist.

In that case try on YouTube And as Pete has said, some pictures would help.

In all fairness it was not a receptionist or a telephone chappie/girlie; I actually spoke to the Service people themselves about it. I assumed (righly or wrongly) that they may know about these things since they are the ones that deal with installations also unless they outsource it. The Octavia that I bought off them in 2006 was outsourced for a tow bar so maybe they too do not know much about it. i have not had a look at the plate but will do so today

Hello have just taken delivery of my brand new Kamiq SEL EXEC 1.5 TSI DSG. I will be asking for help on the various sections as I find the manuals a bit brief!

If you can find someone local with VCDS or similar, and good knowledge, they should be able to swap it back to variable and input all the correct values for time and distance left xx Km and yyy days. Some might call it cheeky, but you could do this. You need to verify what oil was put in on the last change, so time to get paperwork out, odds are it has VW Spec XXX that is same as Long Life.

I would ask if it does. If you have the 4x4 version then it will have one. But if you look under the bumper, if there is no cut out there already, it won't have the electrics setup ready. I found a local guy on here to do my coding. Other dealers or garages, even VAG specialists wouldn't do it. I don't understand why as it's 3 options to change!! But I would search the VCDS list on here and find someone local to you to do it for a beer or 2!! It will take them 5 mins!!

Hello there! Do post some pics when you pick up your new car.

Got a new negative cable made And done a bit of painting on the slam panel and some 232mm carriers. Really nice to have a working charging system for once int this car. No problems cranking it, and the battery itself is holding a charge just fine seemingly. A major annoyance with this car finally sorted.

Camelbak forge does *not* fit, it's a tad too large. Base is around 69mm diameter, so something closer to 65mm is going to be necessary to fit well.

It's 100% build date, as the car may have sat waiting for transport and possibly sat in a dock for months. Mainly for safety sake to make sure the possible combos fit your car. As for obtaining the date, if you also ask dealer for quote, they might even supply you a list of PR Codes, and in the document you should have a build date. They can do this when they use the parts program, just a few mouse clicks to "print" a PDF off. As seen in the example (of mine) for Date of Production TMBBF73T4F9051575.pdf

Now sold our Kodiaq so will no longer be on this forum. I'd like to say a huge thanks to the forum members who have given help and advice. I've been hugely impressed by the depth of knowledge, kindness and respect exhibited by, well, just about everyone. It's a great forum and I wish it - and the forum members - every success.

Even better. Pick up date is now confirmed september 14th. Happens to be also my birthday. 🤩

For anyone interested my local independent garage has found the fault. Turns out a rocket has broken on cylinder 3 which has closed one of the valves. This in turn has damaged the camshaft and cam cover. So thankfully not a new engine. Camshaft assembly was £1500 however, but cheaper than anticipated. Local official VW parts company that my garage got the part from said they have sold two others in last 6 months. Not massive numbers but obviously something that has failed before. Sorry rocker not rocket….

So, to update this, i’ve had it lowered for about 12 months on Eibach springs and Bilstein shocks, i’ve fitted bonnet struts, front strut brace, wheel spacers front and rear, wind deflectors, colour coded badges, changed the chrome lettering and front grille surround for black and fitted the front Maxton splitter. I’ve got some new front fog lights on the way and keep toying with Eibach front and rear arbs and also a remap. I said this was staying standard when i bought it. 🤦🏻‍♂️😆

Fortunately there are some Check out this YT channel (link to videos about eTSI engines): https://www.youtube.com/c/1001cars/search?query=etsi They also do some other tests, like testing all assisting systems in the cars. Quite nice and informative. Actually mHEV is what makes S&S finally usable. Generator-motors has enough power to start engine instantaneously without (much) vibration and lag, and additional Li-Ion battery used by this system minimizes the risk of battery failure. My 2 previous cars were Seat Leon (1.4 TSI 122HP) and Ateca (1.5 TSI DSG). In both first thing i did was to disable S&S. Despite of that i had 2 battery failures in Leon within 4,5 years of ownership (one when the car was 1,5 year old). I did that to save engine, but also because engine start was annoying and generated quite some vibrations. And finally in Ateca it caused huge lag (not so much in Leon, as it was MT, so engine started when clutch was pressed, which gave more control over S&S). Now in Octavia i never disable it. In a way stopped caring SO much about the engine, as i will probably change the car before anything happens anyway. But mostly because it's so usable finally. It starts engine in a blink of an eye, with no vibration and lag. It's perfect. And really saves fuel, especially in heavy traffic in the city. 1.4 TSI was exceptionally good engine. As said - i had Leon 5F with 1.4 122 HP (EA211). It was great. Very quiet, punchy and economical. By comparison 1.5 is more noisy, probably due to GPF, and at least in the beginning it was not so economical (at least 150 HP version in my Ateca). Now it's better than first series, but is it better than 1.4? I doubt it. But i'm anyway pleased now. Just had a vacation road trip. 4300km from Poland, through Baltics, Finland, Sweden, Denmark, Germany and back to Poland. Mix of highways, speedways and smaller roads. Average speed around 100km/h. Average consumption from this was 5.45l/100km. Least i had was 4.7 in the Baltics (some highway in Lithuania, mostly one carriage roads), most was 5.7 (highways in Denmark, 130km/h, Germany, 130-150km/h and strong wind in the nose, and Poland 140km/h, next speedway in Poland, 120km/h) on 1100km trip. It's pretty good as for rather large car with petrol engine, with 2 adults, 2 kids and trunk full (literally full) of stuff for 2 week trip. So far it seems Octavia is a bit more economical, than my Leon used to be (maybe by 0,5l/100km) and MUCH more economical than Ateca (roughly 30% - will never buy SUV again, unless normal cars are not available anymore ).