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Hey all 😊 Short update: my finished car is still waiting for transport from Cz. I guess now the quantity surprised them and can’t keep up with the trucks 🤪 Hopefully it arrives some time next week, until then I am due for a short visit to the dealer for paperwork. I’m kinda in the dark here, haven’t had a brand new car yet 😊 It’s been surprisingly quiet here knowing that most of the banked cars is now finished?

Great results OP, £12000 to £1500 is the reason Stealers have a bad name. No interest in fixing, just replacing.

Both the front and rears push straight back, but, for the rears, you have to use a diagnostic tool to electrically retract the electric park brake mechanism first.

Jeez a lot of overthinking going on here. These are what I've got, they're very good.

Having looked @ your last post I struggled at first to make sense of it because of the way you have wrote it, however even for a high miler that's a lot of oil being used. I can't help but wonder if a turbo oil seal has gone allowing oil to pass into turbo where it is then burnt. I also wonder if trying to solve the problem is a case of urinating in the wind given the fact the DPF has been removed, I may well be wrong but I would expect the car to fail the next MOT on soot levels. I won't mention the legality of driving the car on the road.

My car arrived last week but I still don't have a pickup date because my dealer still hasn't prepared the paperwork. They HOPE I will be able to pick up the car by the end of this week

Yeah...... this need enforcing.... until charging points are at every space, it's not a parking spot. It's worse with PHEV drivers who don't bother learn about charging. I've had a HUGE Range Rover pull onto Ikea pavement next to the charger, it was during the petrol pump shortages. When I went and pointed out this is the pavement and awfully close to children's play area, the driver gleefully said "this is electric". I didn't bother correcting him on the fact the single Ikea charger only had CCS and Chademo, not suitable for his pointless PHEV that probably never gotten plugged in. I only pointed out this is the pavement and charging spots are on the other side, with a queue.

For me the funniest thing and the one most having me say arsenal to myself is people in EV's pulling into EV charger bays at supermarkets to just park because it says 'Electric cars'.

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Thanks guys. Its a 1.6 TDI. Reg OV63PCO Had a look myself, and yeah none £140 each. I'll give them a call get them to send me a price breakdown.

I was then going to post, exactly this. 🤝

I am going to respectfully disagree, I don’t think that anyone on these forums have ever mentioned a problem with a DSG gearbox when paired to 1.0tsi However you will find multiple references to problems with wet clutch DSG and/or 4x4 system in Karoq, Kodiaq, Superb and Octavia sections, usually because of poor or missed DSG fluid changes, and clogged filter in Haldex 4x4 system. As for the potential money pit to replace failed components, you are nowadays able to buy all-in-one servicing on 3+ year old cars which includes MOT tests, European breakdown cover and an effectively free full warranty.

Just a though but if it was registered in late 2020 isn't that when Australia and New Zealand were in lockdown? If so I wonder if it was a car destined for that market that was diverted here for sale due to lockdown preventing it being imported and sold down under?

Good news guys fixed the problem. One of my boost hoses wasn't seated properly on the intercooler. Clipped it in again and so far no limp home or fault codes.

Well, that fantastic news. Delighted for you. 👍🏻

I think it's a well understood rule that if you have cars parked on your side of the road then oncoming vehicles have priority. But then if you have committed (i.e. before oncoming traffic has arrived on the scene) then you assume priority. If both arrive at the same time then you give way. That much is all clear and pretty well understood. I was having a discussion the other day regarding this and the other party was of the impression that if the side that should give way had a stream of vehicles coming through then they all have priority even when someone is waiting who normally would assume the priority. Example: 10 cars in a line with first 2 committed to passing parked cars. Another car arrives in the opposite direction but the line of cars all continue through even though 8 of the 10 are yet to commit. The way I see it is if you cant see that it is clear then you shouldn't go. Same as entering a yellow box with cars still in it. What if they stop? What are people views on this?

Indeed, don't worry, I wasn't going to fall into that particular trap. I love this car, it was my old company car, I was the one who did the deal with the dealer when it was new and the company had it on a leasing contract and when I eventually decided to retire because the company politics and backstabbing was doing my head in, I did a deal with the leasing company and brought it from them. That means I know the cars entire history, it has never been thrashed, always serviced on the dot when the time was right, and it is the best car I have ever owned or had as a company car, so it made perfect sense to buy it, I was the sole keeper and driver of it from new, no problems whatsoever. Ok I didn't know just how to unplug the battery monitor lead, I tried, and it didn't want to budge, even with the locking tab released, so I thought, knowing just how much these cars talk to various sensors and if they don't get a satisfactory reply back, they can either go into full melt down or limp home mode, neither of which I wanted to happen. I was also well aware of how the local service agent is struggling with Covid, yes it is still a major issue, despite the media and Government not talking about it, so I knew that they were looking at a minimum of 6 weeks waiting time for service / repairs and I need the car working as this weekend I have to take my wife and Sister in Law to Heathrow for 2 weeks in Madeira so no point in running the risk of breaking anything. But somehow that became a bit of a joke, which was not necessary. To illustrate a point, my rear offside seat belt got accidentally frayed and partially cut through. The dealer ordered a new one, and it has today arrived, and they rang me to tell me that it was now there ready to be fitted. The problem is now that they told me to call them back to arrange a date for fitting and that date would be at least 6 weeks away I was told. Add into that equation, that since we are now no longer part of the EU, getting spares into the UK is a logistical nightmare and what with my particular model being very rare with just 14 left out of 16 registered in the UK, even further compounds the problem. The car is the top of the models line up and has better space, legroom and in many cases comfort and features and fittings to rival or beat the Mercedes-Benz S classes, I'm not going to take chances with it.

It's great to find out I'm wrong and not insane. Thanks!

@2thin2swim I was rather distracted with a phone call, the part that most likely fits (and might still be on the loom you removed) 3T2 971 120 CE for cars with 8 speakers, no KESSY and no upgraded speakers Need the label off your old, or VIN to make sure. Dealer price is £171.70 inc VAT But maybe with the old loom off and a wiring diagram you might be able to solder up and fix the loom?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. One - but it does depend on the colour of the car. Any clean black item makes what's around it look better and cleaner, note the rear tyre and bumper on the white car compared with the front tyre and bumper. Large black items like tyres, bumpers, roofs if black and clean really standout even if they're fully noticeable as such. I didn't get a chance to clean my wife's Fabia today (would have been about second or third time this year if I had) so I just cleaned the tyres, wheels - always noticeable, lights, number plates, windows (except windscreen) and door mirrors and lights as all these are bright and reflective areas so look good clean. From a distance the car looks clean, it is not as the paintwork is very dusty and a bit dirty but luckily blue is good for not showing the dirt too much. Also a safety thing, see and be seen to clean the lights, door mirrors and lights and number plates, along with the windows but they're not usually very dirty being on the side and rear has a wiper.

@NikTheGeek I'm pretty sure MOT test only fails on DPF if it's visually missing or if the exhaust is emitting smoke. I did a quick bit of research too on this before replying. Emissions tests as part of MOT doesn't yet detect for soot itself from what I could find. I'm not gonna hijack this thread for this dispute if you know more regarding DPF and MOT test for people that are interested that's up to you, personally I have the DPF on my diesel and not removing. Back to oil leak: My options are going to be checking the Turbo, checking the breather hose, and if any other checks my mechanic suggests. Once the above things are checked etc I'm going to remap as a contingency plan.

@BAXTVR ? Are you doing this conversion yourself and fitting this non-electrical pump? What actually have you done in the past year of dealing with the overheating other than changing the thermostat? ? How many miles has the car done, and why did you not just change the water pump or has it been changed already on a 8 year old car?

@Snowr0 I wonder if the battery charger sensor to tell the car what Voltage is in the battery is duff or dying? The part connected to your battery terminal to tell the Alternator to charge. You started with message about a low 12V main battery, reading 12.65V on your BT meter. How is the car reading a different Voltage from what your meter is reading? You did mention test's have been done on battery and all report healthy for its age.

As long as you can do the job without damaging anything. Using a wind back tool on a brake caliper piston that is not designed to be rotated could damage the outer dust seal. Although an adaptor would be used with the wind back tool, unless the adaptor's bearings are incredibly smooth (not likely with cheap Chinese tools) this would create a twisting force on the brake caliper piston and rotate the piston possibly damaging or stressing the outer dust seal. A damaged brake caliper piston seal will let in water and cause the piston to seize, resulting in the need for an expensive brake caliper rebuild or replacement. Very common "piston wind back tool" set probably all made in the same Chinese factory

@Spudskodai am curious as how you can make sure what you are doing will make an improvement because an Manufacturers Label on tyres from their testing has nothing to do with the noise you get inside a car it is an 'Exterior tyre noise rating'. You will only know once they are on and you are using them.

I bought some cheapy ones of fleabay. They work great but seem to lack the damping during opening that the original ones had, so I have to steady the tailgate with my hand when opening so it doesn't open too violently. Doesn't bother me in the slightest, though.

You can get a disc brake spreader tool on ebay/amazon. This is a very popular design which is sold under various brand names and also unbranded. They are probably all made in the same factory in China and are available from just over £8 including postage. The tool enables you to push the front brake caliper piston back before removing the old front brake pads. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=disc+brake+spreader+tool&_sacat=0&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=3

Ahh yes, it's the mother and baby/disabled bay types again

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's what's needed a good recommendation. Unfortunately some thinking is required before ordering, it shouldn't need to be but that's how it is now. After the race to the bottom to get the cheapest made products from China the quality of some parts and the quality and attitude of the sellers and the information they have and give has sometimes dropped to very low or abysmal.

I've noticed a very entitled attitude of certain types of EV driver. Not the majority of them, but the £100k is no object types, who would previously have driven their Giant SUV, with the biggest engine and parked it in a disabled or mother and baby bay.

Thank you for your swift support 👍 Very much appreciated, Sir!

That's very good of you, thank you in advance

Oh right, well I got completely the wrong one. The only thing I can think of is that they're using genuine parts, or they are doing the control arms, the ball joints/track rod ends and all new bolts at the same time. The latter isn't that unreasonable as I've seen a fair few rusted bolts shear when undoing them and the ball joints at the ends of the control arms are pretty exposed. Certainly last time i had bushes done I was presented with one that had gone, so just did both to save future costs. You really do need a parts break down or a second price.

To be consistent with thread title The Turanza T005 is being replaced by Turanza 6 It seems that they will be available to buy in UK from about late Feb or March 2023 ready for the summer tyre season

If you know the price of parts, the labour and vat then maybe overpriced, maybe not. You could always do it yourself if you have the tools, the know how and a place to do it. Then it is just your labour at what ever you consider your time is valued at. Ps. If the car stays with them is there no retest charged for?

The Engine Cover recall letter, which also flashed up on the infotainment system at the time.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Get them from the wrong place and you can have problems, especially if they ignore you as a customer with a problem on an item they supplied - though I've no personal experience of this with struts.

One common failure is the flap sticking, we did one on a 2012 T5 last week with the high output CFCA engine, the flap was stuck and the cooler blocked solid, on these the complete unit is £1127.95 and takes a full day to fit.

You're surely going to have a big bill anyway aren't you when your MOT tester fails it for the missing DPF?

It's an Audi document, and it's mainly pointing a finger at customer. They do mention that they are going to design a better socket. Odds are this applies to Skoda as well, might be separate document. Take this TPI mainly as a guideline only. 2060718.2 MIB2 MIB2+ - Hardware and ESD damage to USB socket.pdf

Get. The. Codes. Read.

Spent the afternoon initially for what was supposed to be a quick bit of troubleshooting - which ended up all day job due to various issues…. Anyway think the inner door seal is partially contributing. Checked the seal on door and found the drain hole on bottom is where the seal runs and the seal itself has 2 own holes (ie not rips or bodge job) which I assume are to allow water to escape. Anyway that corresponds to a very wet part in the inner seal rubber at the footwell at the point above where the carpet is wet. So have got a replacement seal ordered. However I don’t think this is the main culprit. Decided to recheck the pan sunroof drain focusing on the driver side - since was only able to get access to the passenger side the first time round. Noticed that when pouring water down to test, nothing was appearing under the car - so am pretty sure that was telling me this was the problem. Knew where I needed to check, just needed to get access - that’s where the ‘fun’ started (not)…😫. Needed to get under the plastic trim cover at bottom of windscreen that meant needing to remove left wiper arm. When taking the bolt off i dropped it down the gap between wing and body with no way to get it other than taking the plastic wheel arch cover off. So set about that and thought I’d make access easier by taking wheel off. Loosen wheel bolts and jacked it up but couldn’t budge the wheel despite a lot of trying. Gave up and removed wheelarch covers with much less room to work with. But in the end retrieved the bolt- plus a lot of leaves and silt that had build up so was no bad thing as needed done and probably wasn’t helping with the draining. So back to the wiper arm - again ceased on and wouldn’t budge even after wd-40 and a pulling/rocking the arm with a worrying amount of force trying to prise it off. Assumed it was just on splines and should pull straight off - but again didn’t want to chance it incase there’s a special tool or something needed to remove - so left it on. Ended up going with the option of bending the plastic to a dangerously wide degree - but was still only wide enough to squeeze my forearm in - skinning it to bits in the process. Managed to feel blindly for the rubber spider exit valve which I eventually found and gave it as good a clean as I could under the circumstances. Thought I did get rid of some gritty stuff but nothing obviously obstructing. Poured more water down to test but still noting coming out on the ground but when I squeezed arm/hand under the plastic I did feel some damp esp where some of the foam and material dampening felt like it had soaked up some water. Finally decided to do a bit of contortion and try find the pipe run from under the footwell and more blind feeling up in behind dashboard (as didn’t want to set about full dashboard removal as still don’t know how to undo the plastic trims. Luckily felt a round pipe and with a torch cud just about eyeball it. But then was more blind feeling while wriggling like a snake in the footwell and almost dislocating my arm wrist to feel out a rubber grommet/bung at the end. But after a bit of blind felling about of that I got a flood of debris laiden water down the back of dash and arm into the footwell. So it seemed the pipe had come loose from the rubber and was barely connected - so I manipulated it back in and tried ensuring the pipe was well in the rubber grommet. Got someone to pour more water down from sunroof while I continued to feel round the rubber/pipe joint to make sure no water was coming out where it shouldn’t. Was all good and water drained down the drain hole very quickly (much quicker than previously) and could see a similar amount had puddled behind the wheel where I was expecting to see it. So I’m pretty confident that was the main issue all along. Just need to get carpet dried out and hope the rubber/pipe junction stays together as it didn’t feel very well joined - no reassuring click/clip in or anything. Might look to put my own bodged circlip on to try ensure it stays together. After all that, didn’t have the inclination to check the a/c drain - which probably would have been a breeze compared to all that. Thankfully now summer almost gone I might just keep the AC off so I don’t find that it is leaking aswell!!🤪

The 1.4/1.5 TSI water pumps are fairly fool proof, Ive never changed one due to failure personally. Finally an engine they didnt put dodgy water pumps on

Do not push a stick/tube down the pipes!!! There is a good chance you’ll detach them and if it’s anything like the older ones, they will never go back on properly and you’ll have to replace. the blockage will be in 2 places. Where the tube starts at the sunroof which you have cleaned. And in the wheel arch front and rear where the tube ends. the best way to describe it is like a cows udder but in black. And it will be blocked solid with dirt, if you find it in the wheel arches and either open it up and clean it out or massage it and all the dirt will break apart and fall out. Then flush it through with water from above and clean it fully

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/441688-glow-plug-light-flashing/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5396908

Hi Cheesy, welcome to the forum. It's a judgement call really. I had mine replaced at 6 years (very low miles) - I was tempted to take to 7 or 8 years, but I chickened out! A consideration to make is that it is only Skoda UK that insists on 5 years - my understanding is that Seat, VW and Audi all specify longer periods - all with exactly the same engine. Mine cost £436, including aux. belt and tensioner, at a largeish independent garage.

Exactly that, for many people it's only about me, me and me

I got one from a breaker on eBay, price was £30 ish from memory.

To be honest you could do a decent job yourself it's time consuming. I've lay 2mm sound deadening in the boot area and beneath the rear seats, that made a difference. So now I'm going to the rear doors and put 4 or 6 mm closed cell foam on top of that. The front doors are the trickiest. Ideally would like to take out of the wheel arches and cover them aswell.