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Ok, with some serious help it's been done! Here is the overall sequence of events that was encountered and followed: Original gateway was 5Q0. Most examples seem to use the 3Q0 gateway so I went and got one to follow the same path. Swapped to 3Q0907530C gateway with software 4287. Removed Component Protection and restored FEC using ODIS online. Upgraded gateway software to 3Q0907530AC sw 4388 with ODIS Engineering. Applied dataset 3Q0907530AC_Superb_3.xml Extracted data from the XML file and modified to add 15 increment slider using the 'Full Example for DCC Index C with slider' on the GitHub page using the addresses given in the drive2 link and pulling the hex values from the GitHub example. Note that the data for 'remember after reset' doesn't line up with the drive2 example (nor does the slider example, but this is more obvious from the github example as the data is just 0-15) so I copied the values from the GitHub example manually from 0x2E0-0x2EF. Applied modified FPA data using ODIS Engineering. Flashed DCC controller to 5Q0907376C and applied Passat dataset. One unexpected benefit has been that Normal and Comfort setting ranges are no longer as bouncy/floaty over bumps and dips. The difference is substantial and while I haven't recalibrated the DCC yet (new front struts going in next week) the overall feel is more planted and overall firmer. The Sport++ level feels like coilover damping with the compression and rebound damping turned up very stiff. My happy place seems to be as per the photo at the moment but will likely change after new front struts and recalibration next week. This should be taken in the context of the Superb, which has quite floaty and soft DCC settings in Comfort and even Normal.

Not much of a sunset last night, but the water was like a mirror..........

The wait is finally over, I received the car today in perfect order and it was definitely worth waiting for. Good luck to all of you that are still waiting

So my wait if finally over too. Czech dealer received the car last friday. Send me a pictures. Its RS liftback, 2.0 TSI, 6 manual, with some extras like premium seats, blind spot, sun shades on back doors, heated steering wheel, accoustic front glass, wireless charging, etc. Besides that, there are waiting on me a 19´´ Taurus wheels at the dealership (18´´ Comet gonna be a winter wheels). Gonna pick them up with the car 3/10/2022 and then send you some pictures guys. Its gonna be long wait now 😕 Ordered 21/6/2021, so 15 months of wait. 😄

Fitted Leyo Paddle shifters (PSD001S) after the dealer knocked off my previous stick on AliExpress shifters during the 75k service back in July!! These ones r screwed on. Awesome quality, finish and fit. Much longer, easier to reach and solid clicks.

On an LHD car, it's on the firewall, behind the instrument cluster. (Photo from the Internet). I'm not sure how much different it is on an RHD car.

This is what was in the folder I received with my car.

2011 with 40k.

Yep, it was the same situation in my case. I was checking MySkoda daily; the morning the app accepted my VIN, the dealer wrote to me a few hours later to let me know that the car is completed. 20 days later I'm still waiting for news; she didn't announce that the car has arrived at Romanian customs. I'm sure she would have told me... So it seems they don't care about Romanians either... 🙄 Why would they?

And yet, you're the only person who asserted which stock control system they use.

Revo Stage 1 and TCU map completed at MDM Technik in Marlow on the 2019 272 Sportline. Only a 30 min drive home, but the car feels transformed. Looking forward to putting some miles in before the temperature drops and the winter tyres have to go on 😁

I'm always a bit conscious of charging the Octavia on a public charger over those who have a pure electric, but it helps my fuel economy and is that not what we are trying to do? That said I try to avoid shared rapid chargers and it's been hard to get on a charger now - indeed a Leaf owner was queuing the other night and a Tesla was circulating a 2 space charger. I was happy to jump off for the Leaf owner who seemed very distressed! Not helped by the Volvo who had been on 6 hours and was sitting full for the hour I'd been there. Changing to charged tariffs with overstay fees need to be done soon and councils are introducing it quickly as the rise in home electricity prices is seeing more EV owners taking the cheap options. Free charging is going to end soon enough and those who got in early had a few years of it being good, but the rapid rise in EVs and the energy market costs will kill it, indeed charging issues and costs might hamper EV take up. For me, the PHEV takes around 3 hours and 11kWh to charge from empty-ish to full which gets you around 35 miles of EV range. If I use the nearest paid one to me I pay £0.19kWh. At £7.50-£8 a gallon of fuel, I make breakeven 0.53p kwh where costs mean I may as well use petrol - the charger in Morrisons is currently 57p/kWh. Given rapid chargers (which the Octavia can't use) are already 60p+ and Osprey saying they are now going to £1 kWh that shows the costs of electric now.

What does this mean please? It's a DIESEL it doesn't have an ignition system, it's like a load of old crap is falling out of somebodies mouth and you're just writing it down for us. How can the turbo be boosting properly in VCDS if the car is stuck in limp mode? The stuff you're telling us just doesn't make any sense at all.

Strange the rattle appears once the car has reached its normal temperature. When I slow down it appears every time, if I go on uneven roads it appears and also over speed bumps. It's been driving me mad since I've started hearing it for past few months. That's when I got few garages to check my suspension and they all found nothing. One of the garages even had the car on the MOT RAMP and found nothing as well. I took each tyre off one by one and checked between the brake disc and shield for any stones and found nothing. I also drove the car in manual but the rattle was still there just when your about to come to a stop. That's were I believe my gearbox could be the issue as when the gears lower down and get to D2, that's when the rattle could be heard. It sounds like two metal pieces are touching against each other. Calipers have been looked at and they all seem perfect. Brake pads and discs also perfect too. Now when I was driving back from Skoda today, when I was turning right or left I can now hear a humming noise. To me that sound could be the wheel bearings about to go or maybe already gone. Just hoping when I hand car back to Skoda on the 26th September they can find the issue and hoping it's covered part of the warranty.

Is it possible, the next time it makes the noise, get it recovered by Skoda assist who have previously said it's best not to drive it? The garage may be more inclined to give you a loan car.

No 17s I've sussed out they are O.Z wheels Most likely O.Z Superturismo GTs 8x17", ET35 offset.

"Whatever wheels are on it, they sit very wide on the car, no spacers here. They have vw caps on them and the guy I got it off reckons they are vw wheels but I don't think they are. If anyone knows what they are I'd love to know." They look like the wheels off a MK4 Golf R32 I would say. Are they 18"?

Called Skoda assist and they confirmed they emailed Skoda branch on Saturday to also give a courtesy car. They are going to call me back within an hour. I can still drive the car but the roadside assist said on Saturday it's best not to drive too much and drive car to Skoda and leave it with them

Any signs of squealing, and/or of one front wheel being hot enough to steam if you wash the car immediately after a run? Those are what make me think of a stone trapped under a splash guard.

I've had them offer me a courtesy car, which I declined on the basis that I was going shopping in Glasgow whilst mine was being serviced.

That sounds like a dealer specific policy to me, even post-Covid I've always got a courtesy car from dealers and independents.

Looking at the part diagrams, that buckle is not available separately. It's part of the centre seat belt. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2014-768/8/857-857075/#30 Searching for that part no - 3T0 857 807 , shows the buckle and centre belt as one piece. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3t0857807raa-seat-belt-middle-38028.html You can see the buckle isn't removable from the entire belt assembly.

Nice to see and read good news, keep it up 👍. Since this morning MyŠkoda app allows me to continue with registering the vehicle (before the service was unavailable after entering VIN), I hope this means some movement of the car in my direction 😉

Skoda dealers are hopeless so tomorrow I will be calling up some independents for that. Hopefully can confirm and then it's a matter of getting the part and hopefully sorted.

Presuming it's master and slave being changed I'd say in this case it's sensible at this high mileage/age especially as clutch fluid is rarely bled through even during the bi-annual brake fluid change so the condition of the cylinders/pistons can be er interesting (I've seem some horror stories)!! I also think the 1.6 Greenline diesel has an external slave cylinder (unlike the 2.0) so not a gearbox off job - ie cheaper simpler. Also you are only dealing with the hydraulics once and not risking doing half a job to then experience another potential breakdown. I would have though a code would show up if EML is on however I do wonder if something has been disturbed. Out of interest was cruise control working ok on the way back? Also where was it last filled with diesel?

Update: confirmed fuse is OK and 12v is at the fuse box terminals. So that one 300% ruled out as I checked it multiple times to make sure... Connectors all tight, even disconnected and reconnected a wiggly looking one. Nope. Therefore increasingly likely it's the module (or motors but unlikely I think), will need to take it for diagnostics. Just for anyone interested and records, my module part is as 5Q0 595 760 B. The latest compatible revision or version is 5Q0 595 760 F which are the ones easily available to buy online.

Went to see Kieran at this place. He's certainly worth a call if you need anything retro fitting. 👍

I think the recess is for a warning triangle and the strap is to secure it in place.

Well the Octavia iv first edition went in for oil service and inspection last Friday and as I've had the popping,sos-ing the thising and thating going on and the dash warning lights going off like an Xmas Tree the dealer said ok it's going to get a major factory update so that should sort it out.... The dealer said it would be in all day Friday as there was a lot to do..??? Well car still In phone call today saying it should hopefully be ready tomorrow.... We'll see....

I have no further ideas then, except to recheck all connections using the diagram that varooom kindly supplied to you.

It has been done but there isn't much info: About the only post that mentioned it was:

Just got a call back from customer care and they said Skoda advised them as the car is still drivable so they can't offer me a courtesy car. Only once they have diagnosed the car and if it's a gearbox issue then that's the only time they will offer me a courtesy car. Don't see why they should have my car booked in now but they can't look at it till next week.

Was that not the person at Henrys? They are not Skoda but a participating dealer in Skoda UK,s fixed servicing and maintenance. So first 30 mins is £60. Unless that has stopped. I have not seen or heard your car, but the cattlegrid rattle was common. But the rattle on a car running ok is not common with a DQ200 or something I have come across.

Thank you! Yeah it’s a great car 1 owner from new on 62k. Previous owner didn’t skimp on maintenance either which is nice to see it’s had everything done on time or slightly ahead of schedule

Is there dust over one of the small, maybe 10mm each way, grilles near the heater controls? If so, start by cleaning that with a small brush and/or a keyboard vacuum. The other possibility that springs to mind is the exterior temperature sensor; easily checked if you have a trip computer and/or Climatronic.

The lighthouses at South Shields:

Seems all the online only car sellers have their issues. My Octy VRS was purchased from Cinch. I know it might be a gamble but trying to find the exact spec I wanted locally was a bit tricky. Intention was to return the car the moment anything major popped up. Nearly walked away from the sale when they messed up on the delivery date. Thankfully all went well and even got a full tank of fuel as a goodwill gesture for the trouble. Long story short, don't feel afraid to (Politely, but firmly) complain if you find anything wrong with an online car purchase. Or vote with your feet and wallet if it is really bad.

Try the 1.0 tsi with DSG gearbox, majority of the time will be fine, assuming you are not filling all the seats and loading it up or towing. As @Cornishexpat has said sport mode can give you bit extra for overtaking (just have to flick gear level back to get sport mode) The difference between the 110 and 150 power is mainly at top end of rev range, so you won’t really notice the extra power of 1.5 unless you are kind of person who normally goes above about 4000rpm

We have the 1.0ltr 110hp with the dsg gearbox and live in Caithness however have family in Cornwall and North Wales so do our fair share of rural driving. When we go away we have 2 adults, a toddler and a dog so have a roofbox on as well for all the stuff that the dog displaces from the boot. The engine is perfectly adequate although sometimes putting the gearbox into sport mode can make progress a bit smoother if you’re constantly changing your speed. I guess if it were an a manual you’d be changing gear more often. We came from a 2ltr Fsi mk5 golf and it is slower, however the nature of the power delivery being a turbo means I only really notice in spirited driving.

Yes it does lock if the struts are faulty and you have to strong arm it.

The thing about JIT is that it relies on the future being able to be accurately predicted based on the past as it uses past data to try to predict future demand, so when major changes come along (like a pandemic) JIT is about as useful as a chocolate teapot.

I have the 1.5 and also driven the 1.0 a few times. For Rural driving the 1.5 definitely has more power and easily gets up steeper hills and has confidence in overtaking. The 1.0 feels like it needs more effort under load or at speed . At slower speeds and around town, it's had to tell them apart. Both are quick off the mark once you learn the nuances of the engine. For longer trips and rural driving I'd go for the 1.5. The economy is superb, especially when cruising and the ACM mode enables (it is completely unnoticeable except for the dash indicator - no issues with it at all)

Happy camper here now up to 1896. Great service from Bournemouth Hendy. Booked within 2 weeks and a few hours later call that various updates done for ACC thinking it’s in Europe and inability to save satnav destinations. Despite a service manager overhearing the problems as I checked car in and trying to explain it as ACC being designed to be really cautious. My clue had been the traffic sign recognition changing to km p hour when it misbehaved ie 110 showing when on motorway it should be 70. The ACC couldn’t cope with rain but worked well some of the time. Touchscreen laggy, Kessy getting confused who was getting in car etc. Inability to save destinations or home location. All seems instantly improved. Mib module wasn’t talking to Skoda and getting updates apparently , so that was fixed and updated to 1896. Then as soon as got home an OTA update appeared so all looking healthy. See photos as was part F and now H. New assistance screen too Latest versions

Just something to add from my experience. I completely get that the service manual shows pushing the piston back with no pads. In this situation its completely fine. There are 2 situations where it is not fine though. 1. Multi piston calipers. Youll be there all day fighting the pistons back, just leave the pads in and push back on them. 2. Ceramic pistons - Some expensive calipers have pistons made of a ceramic material - if you even try to push back straight on the piston youll crack it and they aint cheap.... Use the pads, make sure its completely square and push away.

And the only difference between the so called illegal car that cannot tow and one that can? A number stamp 🤣

Surely it would only be illegal to tow something, not illegal to fit a towbar? Maybe I want a towbar for cosmetic reasons only 😉 In all seriousness, I was reading the website of the company that fitted the towbar to our MkIII. They fit different types of towbar, one is a swan neck that can ONLY be used for bike carriers, or similar.

The government is now subsidising energy costs by providing funding to keep the price cap at £2500 for two years. This cap is based on a typical energy usage, so people will still pay for what they use, but at a capped rate. We are on a fixed deal for electricity and gas until March and April 2023 respectively. I'm hoping that this allows Octopus Energy to continue offering an off-peak rate of 7.5p/kWh for two years and possibly reduce it, although a contract is in force. Octopus claim to provide green energy, which is cheaper to produce than fossil fuel, so I wonder whether there is scope for a further reduction?

Don't scrimp on spacers and always hubcentric. 15mm fr and 20mm rear are the most commonly used that I've seen with standard wheels.

Marketing department employee of the month G