Leaderboard

i ll pick up mine tomorrow - still can't believe it-, after 15 months waiting...

No.

Ok, it's fixed now, it was the fuel pump control module (relay) that lives on top of the fuel tank and is a bitch to remove! £164 from VAG, but it's a Pierburg unit that can be purchased for around £88 depending how one acquires it! The updated module has fins like a heat sink below it to dispute heat! I was advised that it may be the tank fuel pump next, oh no!

I disagree with your choice. Your choice should be "do I swallow the BS they (may) have given me to try and make more money or do I inspect the discs and pads and decide for myself if they need doing or are they are trying it on?" I bet you they reported that they were 75% worn.

I think like Pete a no also, unless when you change the oil it comes out like jelly, you are fine. If it did, then you would be just as well to get some cheap oil to run through for a few minutes/Miles* to clean out. Drop oil again and place in new filter and your good oil. *because I am not a mechanic, someone will probably say this is good/bad

So our car is built and waiting for shipping in Germany, yey! Anyone know how long it could take to get the UK?

A few shots of Sheffield Park Gardens taken today.

Don’t knock it, the method works on cars as well…😄

The Golf is rather good. oil service due in 900 miles. Tyre pressures were correct. Just a 115ps TDI but shifts in S and the paddles are good but there is not much engine braking. 70 MPG will be easy on back roads 77 mpg average was when i stopped and reset things and tried to get a dash and gauges and radio station and AC and everything else. There are buttons, far too many, and light touch stuff and touch screen. Not for me, but comfy and handles well. Limited to 75 miles a day then an access charge of 35 pence a mile do not going to be going over the miles with it.

I’m clueless mate but mechanic changed crankshaft sensor and all seems ok no faults showing so happy days for now I’ll keep yous posted if anything else thanks again everyone

Good reminder for the OP. Air bag compatible. If the seats have airbags.

Hi, similarly I am no mechanic however my understanding was that an oil flush is only really required if the engine has been badly neglected and is all sludged up inside.

When you can, always pre-heat the car via electricity. Takes less energy when starting, which keeps the ICE off. Even better, time your charging just before you leave. This will heat up the battery, which can then supply more power.

I used a pair of winter tyres in winter, mainly as I couldn't justify the cost & storage space of having 4. (On my previous car) I used them on my drive wheels, as I figured for me, the whole point of winter tyres was to ensure I didn't get stuck. They worked just fine, because I drive carefully in the snow, and that's only if I have to drive in the snow at all. I say to keep looking for tyre suppliers that will supply what you want.

I received a phone call this morning. 'We see that your car is coming in for a Service and 2 recall actions.' 'It is just that one of the recall actions can take quite a few hours and could you maybe leave the car for more than one day'. So i said that was really no bother and why a Hire Car should be dropped off with them this afternoon and i have it for up to 7 days as i gather there can be issues with the Recall action. So if it all comes together the car is heading off into their capable hands later. I have my Driving Licence Code ready, but no call yet asking for credit card details for charging me for 'Fuel' if i do not fill it up. What it might be i have no idea but if not an Automatic that will be another of these little things that happen. Edit, PS. A Golf TDI DSG. Maybe off for a wee skoot around the NC500 then...

Ill try the pre heating next time and report back. My electricity tariff is about to rise to 33p /kwhr in October, so it makes it even less favourable!

I’ll post a pic at dinner captain but I like your idea and it’s a good shout in my book ,,, I’m not bothered about the cost but if I can help with maintaining it and it running longer I’ll gladly do it. already changed coolant and done brake fluid change (only by opening the bleed nipples and pressing brake to drag newish fluid through) just engine oil and gearbox oil to do. But I’ll post a separate question regarding oil and gearbox filling and draining 🤣

That compatibly list is useless and well out of date... My phone isn't listed and works perfectly. Googling for an XIAOMI Redmi Note 10 pro and android auto is inconclusive. It seems to be down to phone configuration and which apps are installed to whether it'll work. It's probably worth plugging it in to a few Android Auto enabled cars to check it works before paying to have smartlink activated.

Best plan is to get it connected to some diagnostic equipment. Those lights can be caused by many things so until you narrow it down, it's impossible to guess why. As for tyre sensors, you don't actually have sensors in the wheels or tyres. The TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System) uses the ABS sensors to compare the rotation of the four wheels to work out if you have a flat.

One from this evening (from behind the disused car wash at a local petrol station!). Also came across this in the car park of a local garden centre - not sure if it is a cherry of some description?

There's also news concerning mine: the dealer called this morning - they have the car since yesterday evening. This morning they requested the documents (temporary registration of the car) and if all goes without glitches I should be able to pick it up this Saturday. So the car's trip from completion @factory (August 31st) to the dealer was ~27 days, plus a few more days to the end-user. All-in-all, it's been 13+ months between order and delivery, so I can't complain if I think about a few other members here waiting for more than 14 months and still counting... ☹️

After reading about supply chain issues (and feeling like my current car was running like a bag of nails again) I called my dealer for the first time since I ordered in Nov. I’d been given a build week of early Sept. It seems the car is on its way to Germany so I have my fingers crossed. He seemed to think it could be 2/3 weeks til collection 🤞🏻 (1.5 TSI Hatchback)

Hello! Good news. My car, that was actually built on week 36 (instead of planned 37), arrived yesterday to the dealer. So that's 18 days from production to the dealer (Spain). I will be picking it up next Thursday/Friday. It's been a 15 months wait. Cant't wait to see it.

I have a 2019 1.6 dsg diesel with the same noise. I look forward to someone offering some advice, I have been trying to find the source for a couple of years!

Circumference with a fabric tape should get you to an accurate enough comparison but you should be measuring the part the engages in the knuckle if it is stepped, a vernier caliper is what is really needed as you would then be able to measure the new ones without removing them. Suffice to say that if they dropped into the hole they are not the correct size. Someone was selling alloy adaptor sleeves on ebay for a certain strut/knuckle combination but I think they were 4 or 5mm thick, I was considering them for a big brake conversion on my car but retaining the smaller struts because I had only just replaced them, maybe the strut sizes were 50mm and 55mm.

Don't use cheap oil as a flush. Just get the proper spec oil for your engine (vw507 or whatever) and a new filter. Run that for a couple of months then change it again and continue with your usual 6/12 month oil change intervals. Mannol oil on ebay is cheap and the right spec (presumably) Mannol vw504/vw507

Hi all first/second post, ady from South Wales got a mk3 octy estate can’t fault the car at all even with the minor faults, last car was an Audi estate and to be fair the Skoda wins hands down new and old attached 😊

I had a friend who practically ran his Merc diesel into the ground, I witnessed the oil being dropped and it came out in globs 😬I think they ran in some cheap oil as a flush. Let's just say he thought servicing was wasting his money. I still remember him saying it started better afterwards and was more economical 😁

If you google some of the photographs you will be very shocked, I was with mine and there are many far far worse. I would not trust any main dealer to do the check and even less to clean the valve, most garages would refuse on the basis that it may break while doing so (unlikely unless they are even more careless than usual) but the real reason is why get their hands dirty when they can make more money by insisting they fit a shiny clean new one. Once again if you want a job doing well, or even doing at all its best to DIY.

Can't look for a few days but based on your photo, I'd check that your plenum drains are clear. Seems to be a bit more sediment than normal - or maybe you live on a farm.... Easy enough to check it's all draining as it should.

There was a new LCU released yesterday (and new ESD refresh) https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=KB5019311 Takes OS to 22621.525

Hi all, Been following the forums for about a year since I purchased my 2017 Superb 280. It's been invaluable already to help me troubleshoot and sort a few niggles out. Anywho, thanks for having me and hope I can add to the community. Cheers!

Extend the key and split the case of the fob using a coin or screwdriver and pop in a new battery. Simple If the fob doesn't work after that re-synch it by pressing a button and then unlocking the door with the key within a minute.

You should verify this is correct by a VIN search at a dealer (see if they can email you a quote, that way you have the part numbers) https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5q0919088am-fuel-pump-31354.html The link is not to say "buy from here" but to show you that you will most likely need a new fuel level sender also to add to the cost. I did see this on the parts program ETKA also

Hi folks, I'm just trying to find the right tread to post on but I basically have an in-tank fuel pump that's creating more noise than I think it should. I can hear it whining away when idle and the frequency of the noise changes with revs. It would be good to hear if anyone else has similar issues or if it's a common noise that I should just ignore. Someone has suggested the control module for the fuel pump may be to blame. I had my dad's old Roomster before this and was very impressed with the performance and mpg 👍

It does that now and again it usually sits at 75 it done it just before after 50 miles I tried to restart car usually goes this time it stayed and engine light was on aswell I’m going to garage now see what they say thanks

The new 8” standard screen won’t display map I don’t think or be as customisable as the VC. On my VC I have my music in one dial and route guidance in the other. With the map in the middle. I’d say it’s easily worth £400 and is probably the favourite toy I’ve had in a car yet. You can navigate far more easily and it just makes the cockpit look really modern.

Turns out problem of DSG crunching from 2nd to 1st has come back (so DSG reset didn't fix this). Dealer was able to replicate (and record) in their on-road testing thank goodness. Skoda have agreed to replace DSG under warranty.

Looking closer. I might think. The marked part would be the one I need. But I can't see that flap on my car. Any rapid owners who would look at theirs??

Hi there, https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/RAP/740/8/819/819030 The online parts catalog lists the part at the bottom, but not in the image or numbered The part is quite visible in the parts catalog, not sure why the parts rep didn't see it. The part image for those that need to visualise how it might block some water, mainly a leaf trap. Can you put a hosepipe on the car windscreen to see if it fogs up with engine and fan running. See if any water enters via the air intake when you do this. If it does, is the pollen filter getting soaked?

Purely to keep the seats clean. I’ve used covers in my previous cars during the working week to keep things nice. It’s not very often but occasionally I end up with grease or oil on my work clothes

All 4 pins are populated and used, they are required. No way around that.

Just been given a build week of week 42 😃

Have ordered CTEK CS One. It's a dear one but since it does everything for you including sorting out the polarity I can't make a mistake and the Mrs will be much more confortable with it. Thanks all.

The two stalks connect to the steering column control module. It will convert the output from the stalk's various resistive ladders into CAN-bus messages and ask the BCM (body control module) to activate the lights, wipers etc. There isn't much a multimeter will achieve to diagnose that... You really should get some kind of diagnostic equipment to read out fault codes and check the coding of various modules. It's entirely possible the dealer replaced the steering column control module with either an incorrect version or just haven't coded it properly! Example wiring diagrams for the steering column control unit:

Online manual is poor to say the least. Best guess I can come up with is interior lights on/off with door opening?

Had detailing and 12 month ceramic protection (MPM Detailing, Shropshire, real gent and knows his stuff!) then fitted OE mud-flaps bought off Ebay. It's the little things that bring the happiness!

The NOCO I have just connects to the jumpstart points under the bonnet and can be left connected as removing the battery means removing the passenger seat so not really practical

That’s it mate, horses for courses. I’m sure there are loads who dislike the race blue I have, and that’s fine. Credit for not being arsey about an opinion mate, many here should take a leaf out of your book. Enjoy your car mate, and thanks for being an adult😂

That reads like 2 faults:- You need new front brake pads (and maybe discs but I'd want to see those first). You probably have a failed ABS sensor. If those were VCDS codes I'd be fairly sure they would tell you which corner to work on. You need a moisture content check to confirm/deny this, but you may need to change the brake fluid.