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A few from Coughton Court and Baddesley Clinton earlier today.......

Cannot remember if I posted these.

I went up Beachy Head last night, just before sundown. The clouds had other ideas, but just as I went to drive off the Sun peeked out from under a cloud: It's funny how I can never quite catch the warm glow that was below it. Gaz

Hi NightShadow, welcome to the forum. From other postings on this question, you will probably get multiple fault warnings light up when you reconnect the battery terminals - but these should all clear after a short drive. If you wish to avoid this possibility, you could keep the car system 'alive' by connecting a 12-volt supply to the power socket, but this is not really necessary.

Hey everybody, I'm glad to read about all these update posts since I last came on here! I know the wait has been unbearable for most of us (I'm in my 14th month of waiting now). So, this week I received a call from my dealership, and—if all goes well—I'm getting my vRS this month! They'll update me on this in the coming weeks; but I still can't believe that this is actually happening, as I was already preparing myself mentally for a late 23' delivery. Here's hoping that no further **** goes down! 😅

The speedo won’t” be out” fitting 17” wheels with the correct tyres. As you can see the overall diameter/ circumference difference is negligible.

It only needs a small amount of clag or a small foreign body to become pinched in the mouth of the thermostat to give the problem you have, it may not even need the new thermostat. I would whip out both thermostats, inspect and test them before buying any replacement.

DSG is a wonderful gearbox, having had a manual VRS and manual cars all my driving life the switch was smooth, to the point I hate driving my wife's car, I occasionally forget to pop it into second when pulling off! The only negative is the one you mentioned, you definitely have less control in slow moving traffic, I either have to drive in sport so it keeps the gear longer, for example 10mph it tends to put the car into second which makes the car run away if that makes sense, you have to use more break input rather than dipping the clutch to control the car. I tend to switch to manual and select first gear in slow moving traffic. Hope that makes sense!

Handbrake.... Can be the rear caliper(s) seizing. Best sorted out by freeing it off at the earliest opportunity or a new caliper or two will be required. Can fit handbrake "helper" springs to the calipers to help them once free or if new. Rad leak might be as simple as resealing a switch/sensor and/or changing the coolant. Don't bother with the PD150 head bolts and gasket unless you know it's leaking. J.

I picked up mine as planned, today around noon. Overall pleasantly impressed, even found 2 extra-options I had no idea about: one is the front parking sensors and the other are the pockets on the back of the front seats (including the small pockets for the phones of back passengers). Both were optional for Style trim in Romania when I placed the order, I didn't ask for either... Front sensors however were part of the ParkAssist which I removed from options sometime along the waiting time. I also have the Skoda logo projector under the front door - those are apparently standard for Style trim, or so the dealer mentioned. One important minus I noticed during the short ~60km trip today: there's a small cricket making noises from time to time (depending on road texture) somewhere in front of me, behind the wheel. It seems to be the shiny bit of trim on the dashboard, between the steering-wheel and left door - I pressed a bit harder on it and the creak stopped. ☹️ I confess I'm a bit obsessed with random noises inside the car; especially since it's really quiet inside - it could be due to the soundproof front-side windows I included as option. L.E. Oh, I remembered to check what @Jettamc22 was asking on the previous page. So, if yo want to see the gear number, simply flick the DSG-changer from D to S; on S it will continuously show the #gear. For my taste it's almost mandatory, because I found the car was cruising in town at around 60 km/h with ~1.200rpm (that's not great for the cat-converter and for the FAP). Once in S, it immediately shifted 1 gear down, with no other input from me on the gas pedal. The second way to see your gear number is to use the shifting-pads behind the steering-wheel; the DSG will go into Manual mode and you'll see the #gear. However, it doesn't automatically go back to Automatic mode after a while. You have to pull back on the DSG-changer and it will come back to Auto - the last mode that was used, either D or S...

This was my water pump (left) taken from a 2.0 TDI 150, despite reduced water pump efficiency there was no overheating issues but I don't tow and the car is never driven hard. RHS is new one

Hi all, just thought I'd post a fix I managed to find for some having issues with phone calls not playing through the car stereo when connected to Bluetooth. So my issue was the phone was connected absolutely fine to Bluetooth and Android Auto, music would play through the speakers fine from the phone (even without android Auto plugged in), however whenever I made a call from my phone or received one it wouldn't play through the speakers of the car, even though the phone stated it was playing through the Skoda. It would just play through the phones normal internal speakers rendering hands free useless! I checked all settings, re-paired over and over, nothing seemed to work until I found a post online stating to switch on "Disable Bluetooth A2DP hardware offload" in the Developer Settings on your phone. Once I did this it instantly starting working as normal. I'm not sure what the equivalent would be for iPhones if there is one, but I'm sure Google can help out with that! For those who can't see Developer Settings, have a quick Google on how to unlock it, then scroll down till you find the above setting and enable the toggle. Hope this is of some use to some as it rattled my brain for ages and I couldn't find a definitive answer!

The simple answer is you need to control the temperature of the gearbox just the same as you do the engine.

This is my take on your questions. 1: I'll be fitting https://www.mtecbrakes.com/ discs on my Touareg when they are due, had them on a few cars and the quality exceeded OEM discs 2: I've got a full VCDS Hex-V2 setup that I know will work, the OBD Eleven you might need the Pro version ? or have to buy credits to get it to do the job ? 3: The chances are they are going to be the same sort of bolts used on the newer VAG models and that will be the Triple Square or XZN like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265778352338 4: The fronts will be as any other car, the rears once the handbrake system has been retracted should be a simple pad change ( the rears on my Treg are a pain as the parking brake is an internal drum arrangement setup that needs VCDS to set up the air gaps between the shoes and the the drum)

Simple answer is I dont know, I have never had a DSG but have often read of the second DSG stat on here, hopefully others will explain what it does as I would be guessing or Googling and as I rail at others that do that to sound knowledgeable I prefer to state my ignorance.

Your logic is sound, I had not appreciated that you had swapped the bulbs, I probably did not read carefully enough, I only dip in and out in the odd 5 minute break. Apologies!

Weird one - the auto is basically just a standard gearbox with a solenoid actuated changer and clutch. Intrigued by "charging up the battery"... How old is the battery? It may start the car but these autos are quite fussy about having good batteries (at least the computer controller is fussy). There's a chance your battery is dying.

Sorry, i was just hoping your post would be seen by more with the same cars. I do not drive manuals. Maybe some servicing and maintenance is all that is needed. Grown ups with knowledge will be along hopefully.

It looks like I'm going to have to get both of my trolley jacks out and my axle stands to make fully sure that my car was lifted securely before I go under to check. This is where a lift would have come in handy. Thought my days of crawling under cars was over😂Once I've got around to checking it & post results.

I've got PHEV and heated seats and steering wheel turn on when starting at <14c

Welcome Matt, hope you have a great time here 🤝

There is no Water Pump replacing Schedule or Guidelines. The car can be set on Fixed or Variable Servicing. 24 months / 18,000 -20,000 miles. I would have it on fixed, so 9,400 / 12 month Oil & Filter Services and other stuff. I would even use 5w 40 FS oil, VW 502 00, rather than Long Life 5w 30 FS FS III , VW504 00 / 507 00. The DSG has no servicing requirement. The example below is old prices and when there was Minor & Major Servicing time about, or Major & Major. In Blue the new Recommendations, Guidelines or even Schedule as Skoda UK have it. Last years prices.

Pirelli Centurato P1. These tyres were fitted to the rear on 23rd Nov '19 and have remained there throughout. I am a bit disappointed that they should fail with so much tread left. Mike

I’ve paid for a winter pack with heated seats AND heated steering wheel. Not one OR the other. You have to be able to use both together. If I turn off the ‘turn on heated seats when starting on a cold day option’, it’s still not possible to turn on the ‘turn on heated steering wheel when starting on a cold day’ option, so I don’t think it’s anything to do with a clash between the two settings. Anyone else having this problem?

HI, Because I only looked for bulges, didn't look hard enough on the first wheel. I only noticed a problem in the second rear I looked at, decided to recheck the first wheel and low and behold exactly same break up of tyre tread. These tyres have covered 31.5k miles so I suppose they have done enough miles, got to say there are a few mm left on the treads right across the width. Again many thanks for your assistance. Despite the other machinery in our garage, the Roomy has a place in my heart. Cheers, Mike

In some bmws apparently they had colour coded bearings having different clearances etc. I didn't find anything related to VAG. I actually reinstalled it as I didn't want to mess with it. It had less wear than the others but that might be because of the colour. I've inspected the rod bearings and the crank bearings and haven't found any particular damage/wear. Back to reassembly.

Second time on Island Rab BEST ENGINE BAY on 5th TUNING CREW RAB SHOW. Honestly she was by far most completelly tuned car in every segment and quality of work done so far away from the rest, most of them are only for watching from distance of 5 and more meters😉😉 video-51b953727b3b2e1e2cdab1f644a0b24b-V.mp4

Yes, that's the copper backing, it's completely worn out.

Hi Roottoot, Just finished removing the rears and found the problem. The tread has split in the middle of the width, for about a quarter of the circumference. Changed onto spare. I will take it for a road test, I hope that solves the problem. The tyres are well within tread depth with low mileage, I'll need to show them to my tyre man. Thanks for your help, much appreciated. Mike

I hope you are very happy with your new purchase. We've had five Octys in the family (1x mk1, 4x mk2) and are very happy with the cars. I really enjoy our Scout and - despite the larger motor - can still see fuel mileage over 50 on longer trips.

It's something I've been meaning to check myself to be honest, I'd be interested to see if it's still an issue seeing as you have a much later vehicle. Any little fixes to improve niggles is always a good thing.

Other way round I'm afraid... Older cars (MK5 Golf and pre-FL MK2 Octavia) use a CECM (Central Electronics Control Module) and CCM (Comfort Control Module) to control various functions including the exterior lighting. As you've found, there is very little customisation for lighting. Around 2009 (MK6 Golf and FL MK2 Octavia) the CECM/CCM were replaced by a single combined BCM (Body Control Module). As LED lighting options started being fitted, the BCM had to support LED lighting. Due to this, the lighting configuration got more customisable but wasn't well understood for quite some time, hence the infamous byte 18 issue... Quick note: BCM's 18th byte is linked to the lighting configuration and when the factory value is 00, changing it means the car will lose it's lighting config potentially leading to many weird issues. It is fixable but not typically with just VCDS/OBDeleven etc. The video you posted is specific to BCM's. Some clever folk did some work to reverse engineer how the lighting configuration worked and where it's stored, probably down to the byte 18 problems! This means it's now relatively customisable compared to the earlier CECM/CCM combo. Unfortunately, it doesn't apply to your car so won't help your issues. Swapping from a CECM/CCM to a BCM is possible but it's a massive amount of work and rewiring.

Can you show us the exact fault code youre getting? And glowplugs can last a lot more than 100k so really need to find out exactly what the issue is as it could be plugs, module, wiring etc. OEM is original equipment manufacturer meaning they are aftermarket but the same brand that make OE ones. OE is original equipment - genuine parts with the car manufacturers stamp on them. Which are you looking for?

I like them. Not for all but a set would look good on my black track day vRS.

Who manufactured the OEM ones for the VW Group / Skoda? because VW Group will not have manufactured them.

Not sure if this helps but these cars use a slightly unusual twin filament bulb. It's a type 566 and is 21w/4w. If you put a more conventional 21w/5w one in it will work but the warning light stays on.

I object to you amending my posts without permission.

@wyx087I will stick with the Corsa until next August & even extend the lease while waiting on whatever as i really like the car, and hopefully on Motability there will be an affordable advance payment People Carrier / Estate that can carry bikes in the back and be good for an easy 200 miles even in winter. Then i will go for one of those. (I am interested to see what changes the Corsa comes back with as some have reported better efficiency after the software update, some have reported their car has been ruined.) Whatever i have from new now i not only needs to be comfortable for long journeys but also with simple controls and not any stupid touch buttons or sliders that are not lit up in the dark, or require reading glasses on to be able to see to use or stuff on the screen so small that i can not see. I hated an ID.3 when i tried and a Born was so so. The Golf's mis-mash is unreal. There are some quick use buttons for de-mist, rear screen, autolights etc. But the heater, face, screen feet are just not that quick to get to. The steering wheel buttons are all there, far too many, far too small and require looking at as not as user friendly like a toggle or scroll wheel. I will never have a new vehicle again without Matrix headlights. PS. For driving flooded roads i will always want to be in an EV.

I've only done this on a felicia but I seem to remember that the lip of the steped portion sits level with the top of the knuckle hole, but this isn't possable with yours because the tang on the location tab is stopping it from dropping any further into the hole, again mabey suggesting an incorrect part. Whereabouts does the damper end in relation to the underside of the knuckle, it should be pretty much level with the bottom of the knuckle hole + or - a few mm. I know it's not ideal but you could try to take up the tolerance up with some steel shim sheet material cut to size, or as J.R. says try find a coller/sleeve to fit.

On my Octavia, my rear fog light is like that when turned off in the photo however when I turn it on, it illuminates like a normal bulb. It seems odd that you're getting an error, maybe try resetting the code using an OBD reader?

It is most likely a poor connection with these possibilities: - corrosion at the contacts in the bulb holder - if it is a double filament bulb it has been put in the wrong way round - a poor supply or earth connection at the bulb holder - a poor earth connection where the earth wire joins the earth stud in the left hand side of the boot - general corrosion of earth wire and stud in the boot caused by water or (more likely) rear screen wash liquid. [Note that if the rear screen wash has a low concentration then in winter it can freeze and push open the pipe connection] If you have a multimeter you can check all connections one by one.

Not sure on petrol/diesel specific but here's a fix thread.

The above is incorrect, water temperature is still regulated by a wax capsule thermostat, more than one in the case of a DSG vehicle, the sliding sleeve prevents circulation to provide a faster warm up for emissions and quicker cabin heating response, there is an additional electric water pump to circulate the water through the heater and I think the EGR cooler during the warm up phase when the sleeve is deployed. I think everybody is correct in the diagnosis of a sticking impellor sleeve or its actuator but if you have a DSG vehicle you should also look at the DSG thermostat which will be cheaper and easier to replace. You should also be aware that the temperature guage is software driven with an algorithm that means it will show a rock steady 90°c at any temperature between 70° and 110°, thats a guesstimate it might be +/- 10 or 15°c, whatever it is there is no point watching the guage like a hawk to see small temperature fluctuations, they simply do not register, it will sit at 90°c or drop sinificantly above or below it when the threshold is exceeded.

Man, I was so nervous yesterday evening and this morning, could hardly sleep, mentally preparing myself for arguing because of missing blind spot detection - but it’s all good, it’s there 😊 looks 😍, will have a hard time waiting now until Wednesday (you’ll say what is 4-5 days compared to 14 months, but still 😁). Here’s a little preview:

Biggest bang for your buck is a simple remap, nothing else required. If you're determined to wreck the clutch and flywheel then fit a PD150 turbo, FMIC and a remap. Seriously, these need very little to go a lot faster but do the brakes and suspension first.

The steering knuckles fitted to your vehicle which are usually to match the brake disc diameter and calipers used.

Thanks for all your replies. With gratitude I can now report that Bap33 was right on the money with the saw-tooth tyre theory.😀 I swapped the tyres diagonally across the car and the rumble has now moved to the front end with no more booming from the back. While doing this I spotted that both rear shocks are leaking so I suspect this has had an influence. ( they were OK when last MOT'd in June ) I'll post a couple of pics & tread depth numbers as & when I've got a bit more time.

I don't know you but sorry to hear of your accident and wish you all the best ☺️ The xc90 seems a lovely big beast of a motor

Bought the diffuser from an ebay vendor. He didn't include the exhaust tip. It was too late when I found out what was going on with the tdis melting the plastic. Anyways the Octavia cup diffuser is far more aggressive and better looking, couldn't be happier. Shame I didn't decide on it from the start. It needs to be painted and glued to the bumper with a strong sealant.