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The red wire through that hole with no grommet in the first picture would worry me.

Personal advice here. Also have a long narrow screwdriver or stick of some sort as well. Makes it easier to remove and reseat the damper rod that is connected to the glovebox.

Both good guesses. So I’m the process of making my MY17 superb sportline seats to the highest spec possible. so that means both front seats will be heated, ventilated, massage, electric and memory. As many will know, most of these things didn’t come on a 2017 superb, let alone on the sportline seats. fair bit of custom work is going into it, next hurdle to tackle is the ventilated mats and seat cushions. but the above is basically - to get the memory version of the passenger seat controls they want £190 for the controls new, or roughly £100 second hand. as I had a right side memory seat controls and a left hand non memory. I stripped the parts from the right module, desoldered everything and flipped the circuit board round, refitted everything in the left hand housing. Then found out the placement of the centre switch is not symmetrical so couldn’t be flipped round, hence having to drill holes straight through the circuit board and use link wires. Everything is secure and I will probably go back over the work with a nicer quality wire but for proof of concept it works as intended. And saves me £100-£190!

The think is always: do you need a new car? If the answer is yes, go to next line. When looking at new car, if you can charge at home, it would be foolish to discount BEV without a thorough look. For me, with ULEZ looking to expand including my home, driving Euro 5 diesel will no longer be economical. Then there is the looming hyper inflation back at beginning of the year and I have a stable job + a bit of spare cash in the bank. At that point second hand car prices were already inflated. So I took the decision to get a brand new car. All of my previous car were second hand and have ever been more than £10k. For EV pricing, I'm not so sure we'll see a rapid correction. The demand curve is on the steep slope now and more & more people's mindset are changing. My belief is that the first wave of EV's will always hold better residual percentage than similar ICE cars. For example, my Skoda Octavia bought £8800 in 2017, quoted trade price is £5200 and sold for this price. My Nissan Leaf bought same year for £8900, quoted trade price is over £8000. Yes, price of both cars are inflated, but EV second hand pricing seems to be more inflated due to higher demand, both heading for a correction. The price of brand new EV's wouldn't see as big or rapid correction as current second hand ones as this is based on global supply whereas used market is based on local consumer confidence (UK is heading in a recession).

Lots of New bigger EV drivers seem to have their old Zoe or Leaf still in the family are keeping them for day to day family duties as they are something they have had for years, saved them lots of money and are still doing so.

I didn’t wanna get too technical with it but yeah you’re spot on 😛 people seem to forget what anti freeze is, cause it definitely is not coolant!

Just heard from my dealer. My car is on the boat to the UK and I've chosen my number plate. Looking hopeful before Christmas 😁😁

Phew, I'm not the only one thinking like this 😌 I've always been careful to keep the engine revs above 1500 as a bare minimum. I too, like the sound of "whirring" things rotating, especially as I normally run with no back seats - weird I know. DPF and drive line shunt can be very distressing to the mechanicals at such low revs. My Suzuki has low compression Swift GTI block/crank and 8 valve head and can handle low revs and low road speed easily. Very little or no measurable wear in 208+k so far. I think a lot of folk have been brought up on "old style" diesel engines, Ford Transit and the like which would lugg from very low revs (and break down, leak oil, be very noisy, etc). Also, there is no need to rev the b******s off the unit - lots of use of the gears to keep in the zone, or get else a DSG! I'm on 125k on original everything, and crossing my fingers as I want to keep my Yeti for ever.

Its usualy the first thing I install after turning off all of windows spyware options

Hint in the use case I think; you're effectively pulsating these bulbs on and off whenever you turn a corner with the headlights on.

Much being the operative word, when I am driving at 1000-1200 rpm in 5th or 6th gear if I need to do any more than a tiny acceleration to keep up with traffic or maintain speed on a very slight incline using a very small amount of throttle then I downshift one or more gears according to the need and situation. It's how I have always driven any vehicle whatever the engine, I never allow them to labour and only use full throttle when the engine is within its operating torque curve, driving at 1000 or 1200 rpm per sé is not bad practice, it's how you do it, general advice is just that and intended for the lowest common denominator. I drive with a high degree of mechanical sysmpathy, I get feedback through all my senses, the reason why I rarely have music playing, I would drive another identical example of my car in a completely different manner not using low revs were I to sense any labouring or harmonic vibration from the drive train.

Everyone is forgetting the correct procedure. Chances are there is an airlock in the system, there is a diagnostic procedure to allow correct venting of the coolant system. if this isn’t run for its full cycle you risk air locks in the high temp and low temp coolant circuits. I don’t think vcds can do it, odis can though. regarding concentration - water is what has the heat transfer capabilities, anti freeze is the additive mix that prevents rust, freezing and other bits. just having water in the car will still allow the engine to transfer heat perfectly fine (not that you should have just water)

I feel a bit of a numpty as I was unaware that the electronic lumber support on the drivers seat was a four way adjust, I thought it only worked in/out not up and down as well. Consequently I have adjusted the lumber support and played with the various other seat settings. A bit early to say but initial indications are promising. Thanks for everyone's help

Yes and if you have a subscription then the price is the same as for Tesla owners. My closest SC happens to be one of the ones open to other vehicles and is 49p off peak and 62p peak, (36p and 46p with subs), making it the cheapest and fastest HPC in the area. The peak hours are quite reasonable times too.

I would say that its a lack of vacuum to the actuator that holds the secondary barrel closed, if it is vacuum operated then it will have a spring that opens the butterfly opposed by manifold vacuum which holds it closed during the initial stage of the loud pedal stroke. Or maybe you have got a spring or linkage misplaced.

Check that both butterflys are held closed and that you dont have the throttle screw holding open the primary one, if they are both closed or as near as dammit for the primary one then you have an air leak downstream, check the carb to manifold gasket and all the vacuum tappings, clamp the brake servo pipe to eliminate that. I reckon its connected to whatever you assembled wrong in regards to the secondary choke actuator, my belief is that vacuum will close the butterfly and a spring will open it under absence of vacuum - mid to full throttle, something else must hold it closed for starting though. So on reflection I reckon the secondary choke is opening slightly when it should be firmly closed, look down the venturi while it is (fast) idling using a torch, try forcing it closed by hand.

You cannot reset the main mixture on a venturi carburettor without changing jets and even then its a juggling act between main jet(s), air corrector jet, emulsion tube, venturi, accelarator pump bleed jet, none of which need touching after a carb rebuild, only if you have breathed on the engine. Idle bleed screw yes and what you should do before stripping the carb is count how many turns to screw it fully home gently and use that as a baseline setting after the rebuild, probably too late to say that now for DieselMonté. High revs will be either one of the butterflies not closing properly, did you disturb or remove them from the spindles? If so they will need recentralising, or you have an air leak into the manifold somewhere. From what you have said I would guess the latter.

I'd not be surprised; you need to reset the idle stop, idle mixture and main mixture after a rebuild.

The various ECU'S should have diode protection from reverse polarity but you should also check all the fuses as some of them may have popped too.

As above I have a 3 Vin vcds lead with usb stick for sale. It's now a 2 Vin as I bought new for my octavia which I sold at the weekend. New vins can be added when used up. New from Gendan was 225. Selling for 100 quid if anyone interested contact me. https://m.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAyfybBhBKEiwAgtB7fumghI6LccLO_WpMw3RayX72Fq6Z2b1yTbgAsgtlPnx6Pohl0V1xoxoCqtkQAvD_BwE

Looks like it was an additional 8Gb USB stick after all. 😕 Just out of interest @arnold what came on the stick as each supplier normally says the latest version IS NOT included?

I think ring or someone do a long life H7. They will just be standard types not ultra white etc

Sorry for delay but have been in hospital with sepsis (I have cancer and I'm very prone to these sort of things) Hallelujah, yes! The lack of output signal was a red herring (due to faulty test equipment) and the problem turned out to be a knackered high-pressure fuel pump. It seems that a faulty fuel sensor caused the pump to overload and fail. Once (expensively) replaced all fell into place and she's running like an absolute sweetheart now.

It's is I'll put the link in where I bought it.

Yes; pulsating or flashing any Quartz-Halogen, or even tungsten vapour, bulb regularly will reduce its lifespan.

Skoda offers various wheels note Octavia mk 3 and mk 4 are listed as Roman numerals Octavia III and IV https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b Some in UK are trying to go down a size or two, due to poor state of roads, and damage from potholes or kerbs with bigger sizes etc.

Yup, Google play store 👍

Mine does not have the writing, I cannot see a bag inside, it does not appear to be double skinned but I am still wary and constantly on the lookout for signs of problems, finding sand deposits in coolant drained from the system would put me into Defcon 1!

Thanks

The first link is to a CDN https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Content_delivery_network So will locate a server in your Country for faster downloading. 2nd link is 'direct' but might still redirect to a CDN. Files = Same, no matter how they arrive at your destination. You can check the routing yourself if you like tracert vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu Tracing route to cs590.wpc.etacdn.net [152.199.22.79] tracert navigation-maps.volkswagen.com Tracing route to cs1864.wpc.etacdn.net [93.184.221.109]

So fast! Thanks again!

There is a TPI regarding this issue as mentioned in this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/446755-new-rear-shock-absorbers-on-warranty

Yesterday set off with a Full Battery Charged free at CPS & Tesco Podpoint Chargers. Then 30 mins charge @ 35 pence a kWh for £5.32 & 10 minutes for £2.22, then 79 minutes on a 7 kW charger cost £2.04. Next was 18 mins on a 7 kWh charger free waiting to get on a 50 kW for 60 minutes. Then after midnight 38 minutes on a 50 kW at no cost and then home with 38% left in battery. Total miles morning til 2.30 AM this morning was 390 miles for £9.58. Much cheapness is what floats my boat. Just over 3 miles per kWh in peeing rain and temps between 5-8*oC almost every mile. Plugging in and unlugging done in the rain apart from at 00.30 AM, and a toilet near only at the first charging session.

A/ C is not just for cooling, and not only for summer use. During the colder months it de- humidifies the incoming air and prevents the windows misting up etc. Every car I’ve had with climate in the last 20 years or more I’ve set the temp to 20°C ac on and auto selected 24/7 365.

I had intercity consumption (30km trips, with few kilometers in low traffic city) of about 5,5-6,5, depending on driving style. If I reset trip computer after warm-up, it could fall to 5, short trips around 10km were up to 7l - these engines are hungry when cold 😀. But all was in ideal conditions - low altitude and flat terrain. The least I ever got on a long intercity trip (150km) was 5,3. I can believe that city consumption will be twice of that.

Thought I would update, From another forum, When your phone is connected via CarPlay, when the phones home screen is displayed, press the Skoda icon, and it will take you to the screen that enables you to switch between phones for CarPlay. Easy when you know how.

Car is booked in for the Cambelt 7/8 December , will post an update on actual cost and time they took and any other interesting comments , once it is completed

This might help.. https://www.physiomed.co.uk/uploads/guide/file/21/Physiomed_Sitting_Guide_-_Driving_Digital.pdf

Agree with the comment above - you can change whatever you want but if you're still using the same seat... Not sure about a 2018 Edition but our 2019 Edition has one of the better electric 4 way lumbar supports in that not only will it bolster in an out but you can also raise or lower the bolster. Another common area that produces back pain is the level of under thigh support, but again, not only does the edition have quite a large square seat base, being electric you can adjust the angle of the base. ( my Octavia also had electric seats lumbar but the front of the seat base being curved rather than square, I did notice a slight difference in comfort. ) Another area which can cause discomfort is shoulder support, but again the seats in an Edition are quite wide and square so your shoulders should be well suported. So in summary, if you have an electric seat on your Edition, then if re-adjusting it doesn't work, I'd be looking for physio / chiro advice before I'd be looking at changing my car.

Saying that something cheap and nasty looks cheap and nasty is being an infant? No mate, it’s an opinion. Forums are for people to ask questions, invite opinions, share ideas etc and if you/he don’t like what you read then maybe this isn’t the place for you. My reply wasn’t abusive in any way. Do you get upset when someone doesn’t like the shoes you are wearing or isn’t keen on the car you drive? I have no time for snowflakes who cry just because someone has an opinion different to theirs🙄

I have just purchased an approved used Skoda Octavia estate MK3 from the centre and I had been treated nicely during the paperwork but on delivery of the car I have learnt their sales department and technicians pulled a trick on me by not completing a majority of the 100 point checks. Including not covering the 4 years service and maintenance recommendations from the Skoda guidance on the the UK Skoda website. To top it off there was no wheel nut lock key and I was pretty much told I should be lucky with all the money spent on the number plates and emergency tyre repair kit after discussing the missed service and maintenance. Oh and they only gave me one car key, so I was told it could cost £300 to get a spare. I have had to chase my end after explaining the 100 point items they have missed and its taken a week to get them to agree taking the car back to do the checks. I will update this review further after these check are complete and my experience.

Just one little change to it. Needle lights on the Rev counter, water temp and fuel gauge stopped working so a quick trip to Chris bellman’s in Sheffield sorted that out with some new lights

I've just done a weekend away on almost a single charge. A trip to Anglesey (80 miles), motoring about the island for three days and the trip home through Snowdonia this time. Total was 320-ish miles. Left home at 100% with 265 miles showing on the GOM, predicted range increased slightly on the way over. I got a 15 minute top up at a 50kW Podpoint rapid on Saturday afternoon when it was clear I didn't have the range to get home. Arrived home with 13% which included running the air-con for the dogs while parked (Sunday was 20C!) so was able to go get a takeaway with no drama. Cost of home charging for this was £16.33 and the rapid charge was £6.34 (15.86 kWh) for a total of £22.67 for 320 miles, so 7.08p per mile on a little trip out. My Karoq would have cost about £59.20 for the same trip using the cheapest diesel I saw as a guide (£1.85/litre). An example of my real world range in a loaded car and the cost to charge at today's prices.

Chaz2405, 2.0 tdi 170, Yeti Monte Carlo, White, Wiltshire Hi All, Just purchased car on1st November 2022, and so far am Loving it.

We had a cluster flump at work yesterday as the senior technical manager was nearly 4 hours on site (we aren't allowed access to work at heights until he signs us off - so it was a long day). The reason? He drove up from South London to the North West (England) and had to charge up on route. His normal stop apparently had no functioning or free chargers and so he took the decision to wait it out until a functioning one became free. It's a company car, but as he said, he wouldn't have one 'in our job' if he had a choice. The Government want us to go battery-electric (please rethink Hydrogen and zero emissions fuels guys!), but they definitely need to find a way to get the existing chargers to a higher operational number and get new charge points built fast. Many companies and people are doing exactly what the Government wants in this regard, so they need support. On a separate note, I am continually surprised at the number of non-operational chargers I see and hear, reported. What is it that fails in these devices. After all, petrol fuel pumps are pretty reliable, most of the on-site power demands my industry needs are reliable catered for by mobile generators and 3 phase supplies. It very rarely doesn't work. The electricity in my house seems pretty dependable, as do the outlets and electronic devices plugged into them. So what is it with charge points? DO people crash into them while reversing? Have they been built to a cost and fitted in a rush by half trained engineers? Are they vandalised?

Not much to report recently! My wife gave birth on Friday 14th so I've been blessed with a baby boy and lack of sleep 😂 The VRS did clock over £86k and as I've saved money on not driving it to and from work (paternity + a few weeks leave) I got it into the local Skoda dealership for a DSG service. Sorted in a day with a free 'health check'. Made me laugh though, due to errors on the dash for LED sidelights and numberplate lights they quoted to replace them... £111!!! Needless to say I didn't take them up on their offer 😳

when mine was brand spanking, I had a look at a tracker. However the cost for a 'decent' one vs the insurance cost, meant I'd be paying over the odds. Out of interest I did it on a Golf GTD i pinched a reg off from Autotrader and that dropped the premium by about £20 as well. Don't think our cars are on the wanted list If the alarm system has a thatcham 1 certificate, it's a bit excessive to start putting another system in conjunction or on top of.

Just had a colour correction and polish done