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Then they do not have the appropriate knowledge or tools, any decent VAG diagnostic tool such as OBD11 or VCDS can change the battery type from EFB to AGM. The issue of whether to code or not has been discussed on here so many times I've lost count - the downside of not coding the new battery is that the BMS assumes the old battery is still fitted until it learns that the battery is behaving like a much better battery and eventually adjusts its charging profile. Coding make that adjustment happen straight away, so things like start/stop will work much sooner.

Yes dead like a Monty Python parrot. Take a picture of the current battery in full so a replacement part can be sourced.

Even with an identical replacement battery, it is preferable (some say essential) to code the battery monitoring system so that it knows that the battery has been replaced. The original battery is probably EFB type, but will be marked on battery top.

I trust them but I want to do as much as possible on my own given how much they charge per hour of work maybe I should look for a different garage if these guys "don't know how to use their tools"...

Sounds like you might need a better OBD tool... If the engine light has been on, I'd expect a stored code to say why

Special tool required to plug into the OBD port - check if there is a member near you who can help, there is a register available somewhere on the forum. The minimum required is to change the logged serial number of the battery (can be a made up number - or as one member posted recently, the date - Eg. 30112022***** for the necessary number of characters.

If you bought it from a garage, explain what happened and ask them to take a look at it and fix anything that might be faulty. It may be that they'll have diagnostic equipment which can see what your reader might not be able to. I wouldn't view it as a harbinger of doom at the moment, just something that needs checking out. A stitch in time and all that. Given you've not had it long I'd be wanting the supplier to carry out appropriate remedial work if I were you, as a warranty matter. Gaz

Life gets even better and smoother when you switch off Stop / Start every single time you get in the car.

New mats have arrived

Actually codes might not be logged. If the Engine Management light, as in sitting with the engine rich and the 'Engine Management light / emission control light comes on' Like when a car is moved about in a workshop / paint shop and loads of soot build up. Engine light. Symbol the shape of an engine, an EPC light can also show with misfires, or not log of not enough in a cycle to get logged. Electronic Power Control light / EPC. So an Engine lights or a EPC light is the first question, then does the car need a bit of a blow out. Do not do that before checking the plugs, coils, air filter etc are all well. & get the Fault Codes read if there are ones logged. If all is well some fresh E5 97/99 rom might be good if it has E10 95 ron sitting in the tank a few weeks / months old.

A generic ODB2 reader only reads generic ODB2 codes, there are a myriad of manufacturer-specific codes for all the various computer modules installed in the car. I would get someone with VCDS, or the dealer, to check for stored codes. As has been said, if the EPC light was on then almost certainly there will be something stored somewhere.

Sorry yes I originally put OP is in Switzerland and info was for UK viewers but events overtook me and the post was not completed and lost, will edit in now. I will look for info to help giff add in his location (later). I think there might be error codes, which will not be seen until a scanner is used, but not necessarily dash warnings, as far as the car is concerned it just a battery disconnect which you can do for various reasons and lights and warnings can go out with use of the car as the computers 'learn' things have changed/improved. The VW computer programs have their own brain-farts (not as many as me obviously) but they often sort themselves out or you 'turn 'em off-'n' on agen' in some sort of fashion. Personally I'd like to reboot them as hard and far as possible but I know they'd make me suffer if I ever raised a lip to them. 🤣

So even though the car is a few months away it pays to be prepared right? Any excuse to buy a few goodies in advance 😁

I guess they don't know how to use their tools, it's simple to swap if your tool can talk to the car. If you go with EFB, just fit yourself and don't worry about adapting the battery unless you trust them with the task.

That sounds like good advice, stay with same type for minimum complication.

Agree 100% I would fit the AGM over EFB each and every time.

I'd love to see some measured/logged data (not hearsay) on whether EFB and AGM types really do get charged any differently by the alternator. I have doubts.

The car might well be misfiring. Might need serviced. Might need new spark plugs, maybe the spark plugs have the coils prematurely fail. ? So how many miles has the car done. Have the spark plugs been checked or replaced.? Maybe a full service history, but history of what being done.

coding is still needed even for the same battery type, but it would be limited to change only the serial number, otherwise car cannot detect the battery has been changed an keep charging with the same ratio as the previous one.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. https://swissbatt24.ch/starterbatterien/autobatterien/varta-autobatterien/varta-silver-dynamic-agm/varta-silver-dynamic-agm/42/varta-e39-silver-dynamic-agm-570-901-076-autobatterie-70ah Generally (subject to quality of manufacture) an AGM battery will be better than a EFB for start/stop particularly but that will need to be 'coded' in, not only the serial number but EFB changed to Fleece. From Tayna for UK viewers. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/

Could be a coilpack on its way out hopefully thats all.

The existing battery is 70Ah, and the replacement is also 70Ah, so you can just swap over. Please note that the car dash will light up like an Xmas tree afterwards, so you will need to go full lock left/right and if needs be take it for a drive. If you are going to charge the battery, connect to positive battery pole and connect the negative to the car Earth point, not direct to battery negative. My Octavia has negative Earth clamp just above battery near windscreen scuttle. The cleaning process here for your terminal(s) as they seem crusty.

Another balanced view on hydrogen powered stuff from industry export: (ignore the rant from hydrogen skeptic Robert)

You current 40 aspect tyres are about 690-697mm diameter (depending on tread depth) 50 aspect would be 743mm or 6.3% bigger 55 aspect would be 767mm or 9.2% bigger Far too big Sportline spec, with 20 inch wheels and tall kerbs (and a driver that hits kerbs regularly) is a really poor combination. Look at this brochure, get yourself some 18 inch rims (or even 17 inch), fit them with all season tyres, then either store the others until you sell the car, or sell them on an internet site https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b

Smaller wheels will be your friend. I won’t entertain 20” wheels or bigger, for ride and ££££ reasons, hence not ordered a Sportline (among other reasons). Was pleasantly surprised in 2017 when I found the 19” wheels & tyres gave a much better ride than I expected. The change to 17” high profile winter tyres is huge. Wafts along like a ship in the breeze. Which is where the DCC comes into play. ps - in almost 6 years my Kodiaqs haven’t touched a kerb and to give credit to my wife, the current Polo and previous Octavia didn’t touch a kerb over 6 years. It is possible to drive carefully. It’s an art.

I wouldn’t worry too much as it’s probably something really simple an may not ever happen again. But in any event, there’s certainly no reason to consider getting rid of a fantastic car. Ours through-up a Christmas tree of warnings 18 months ago - no ABS, no ESC, no adaptive cruise, no TPS blah, blah and I had a 1000 miles to cover. I was like AGGGGHHHHH - the car is a dud!!! 😩 Turned out to be the NSR wheel sensor had failed. 😂 As for the error code - and this isn’t directed to you - I thought VCDS will pull all fault codes?

Ευχαριστώ πολύ .

That is all factory insulation/wire protection. the bit you think is a wire just looks like a bit of twig or hair. there should only be the 2 wires to the sensor that we can see both

Th side effect of disconnecting the battery current sensor is that the battery will be charged to 100% SoC not 80%, so the (very minor) regenerative braking effect will be lost and there will be a (very minor) increase in fuel consumption.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. VW's computer programs are complex, over complex, intertwined and over-intrusive in my opinion, so any aftermarket additions may cause issues add-on alarms systems particularly from what I have seen (I do not know, or say that the Mader protection is an alarm). My preference is to not only disconnect but to remove and make good any electrical connections from the removed add-on system as much as possible. I was not worried or over excited or upset by the Mader protection wires just that I would prefer the two cables were sleeved together as much as is appropriate, this would also offer further protection to the red live cable that is very close to the negative post clamp and take it further away from the post clamp. But those cables are insulated, the wires that I circled appear to be bare. If I get the opportunity I will photograph how the connection is in my wife's car for you. Good luck.

I don't think anyone really has any clarity on the situation. Except perhaps amongst the makers of the management modules and their software writers. I don't know any of them unfortunately. I suspect the risks of problems with or damage to the new battery are wildly exaggerated, preying on peoples fears in order to extract revenue for dealerships. Certainly if there's no type change I can't see how anything is risked.

Guilty of not being clear in my text for sure. 😬 I mean to suggest that the car will turn off the Alternator differently for AGM/EFB Voltage/State of Charge amounts if that makes sense?

Or this from Halfords: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/batteries/car-batteries/halfords--096agm-start%2Fstop-agm-12v-car-battery-5-year-guarantee-548638.html

I have just seen you are in Switzerland, the Tanya battery link might not work or sell to you. However the size is known as 096 EFB and the Varta is the OEM battery of choice fitted, why I chose that one. You probably won't locate anyone for VCDS, but if you stick with EFB and 70Ah, then you should have no actual need to adjust the settings (adapting) Check dimensions of replacement battery before you purchase, any more questions ask away.

Glove box unit must be replaced, from approx. 200 GBP up for fully reworked (unlocked and activated) unit.

Agree with everything above. I also have a 2020 Sportline and not a single mark on any alloy. Don't blame the tyres. If you're saying hitting the kerb is unavoidable ( a diplomatic way of saying it's the wife's driving that's the problem ) then my suggestion would be to accept driving around with curbed alloys. PS - 235/50/20 and 235/55/20 would render your car illegal / would probably invalidate your insurance. To keep those 20" alloys you'd have to go 195/55/20 ( although you'd still have to check with insurer ) You can go 17", 18" if you want but given you have a Sportline. then personally I think that'd look silly. 225/55 tyres on 19" rims might work but at the end of the day, it all comes down to how the car is driven.

Yes, it's fitted to the intake plenum low down on the left near the dipstick, it's not easy to get at and they don't give any trouble so I'd look for air leaks in the vacuum servo pipe first if I were you.

Assumption: Elegance trim = climatronic (the automatic one), not climatic (the manual one) Not specifically linked. The relay for the rear-demister is controlled from the J519 control unit (AKA central electronics) whereas the blower motor control unit J126 is powered directly from the fuse box. Both of these units are instructed to operate by the climatronic control panel J255 but the magnitude of the rear window heating is simply on/off via a relay so I can't seem them being related. More likely the poor heating is due to a bad connection, perhaps on the glass connectors (that's just a guess from me). TLDR: J255 (Clima panel) --CAN--> J519 (CE) --POWER--> Relay --POWER--> Rear Demister J255 (Clima panel) --CAN--> J126 (blower control unit) --POWER--> Blower fan A VCDS or VAS scan would be helpful.

I never seem to do very well with the search function on the forum? I make the assumption that the Superb MK3 estate body shell isn't significantly different to my MK2 estate? I had been getting water coming into the passenger footwell after heavy rain and especially if I parked with both nearside wheels on the pavement in front of my house. Under the bonnet below the windscreen on the passenger side of the car there is a channel with an opening close to the bottom of the channel underneath a cover for the heater blower motor. There isn't much depth from the opening to the bottom of the channel section and I make the assumption because you can't see with the windscreen wiper mechanism covers in place that during heavy rain the channel wasn't emptying fast enough and the excess water was running into the blower motor opening and then into the passenger foot well. I found when I took the front wheel arch liners off the car between the wheel arch liners and the bodywork they were absolutely caked up with leaves and what looked like black compost so there must have been several years worth. This was stopping the rain water from away fast enough from the drain channel. I hosed the bulkhead clean and I've not had anymore ingress of water into the car.

Or in the Maxidot if the OP has it fitted.

Sounds good to me 👍 Anyone who says WD's no good, never tried letting it soak in, then setting fire to it! 😁

That was the cause

Whatever you do don't follow that advice, I did and was on the loo for 24 hours!

Just had a call from the salesman at my dealer. He tells me my order has been accepted by the factory and expects further news on build shortly. Is the genuine good news or just sales and marketing flim flam? 1.4 PHEV ordered feb 22.

Hi there, not a regular forum poster but used to lurk here for the useful info when I last had an Octy, and on this thread in particular for the last year or so. So I thought it’s about time to share my story. I ordered an SE Technology PHEV estate, with ACC and winter pack, through VWFS in October 2021 on a PCH contract. They said it would likely be built July 2022 for delivery in August. I was told in the summer that it was now likely to be built in September. No biggie given the ongoing issues, I thought, but I was already steeling myself for disappointment. I was then told it had been allocated a build week (41) but that this was mysteriously cancelled by the factory. The supplying dealer says he has no idea when the car is now likely to be built. I’ve extended the PCH on my current car which VWFS are being very flexible over, but it’s deeply frustrating. Ordinarily I’d walk away, but comparing the deal I agreed to what is currently being offered in the market, I feel I’d be a fool to join the back of someone else’s queue for a lesser, or much costlier car.

Music for the MkIII was easy – just poke a SD card in the slot near the CD unit in the glovebox. MkIV only has USB-C, but we're a USB-A home (PC not Apple). Tracked down a double ended 64GB flash drive, one end USB-A, the other USB-C. Noted it was preformatted FAT32, loaded the music from the USB-A end and plugged the -C end into the car – but Columbus could only see 3 tracks out of 500 !! More head scratching, then decided to reformat to NTFS – and BINGO. So, ensure NTFS formatted ! Thanks for the pointers in previous topics.

The loom repair kits are probably the quickest and most effective.. I was between jobs at the time and being a tight arse and bought enough cable to do all 4 doors though I only repaired the front door looms. I took the door cards off.

My 2012 has the same mechanism as the first one if that's any addition.

Canton definitely does fare much better with higher bitrate audio and lower bitrate stuff can sound pretty naff.