Leaderboard

Hold the front page. Just chased, got a new contact at the dealer as my salesman has gone to sell house in the USA instead! Anyway, he says STATUS 30 for my car now, which is in transit to port. If that's true, who in the UK can give me a rough idea of how slow the ports are getting cars into UK dealers? I am baffled that if this is true, why they wouldn't tell me that - I've only been asking for this kind of progress update since August! Oh and for the record I don't believe my Petrol VRS order is held up to drive EV sales - nonsense. I can't get an EV or Hybrid either. I am a touch more excited than I was this morning, I do hope this is accurate info.

If or when you need any work done after the warranty has run out, AVW on Gilmerton Road always seem to get good reviews, they are a proper VW Group Indie and so have licences for access to VW Group resources etc. I use them for MOTs, and for removing CP (component protection) once, also got my older daughter to take her Ibiza there for a cam belt change, and probably her Leon Cupra for Haldex eDiff fluid change, they seem to be just capable and honest car problem fixers, who could ask for more.

You could take it off a switched live so it wouldn't be a concern?

On Octavia IV vehicles, the bar graph on the instrument panel (fuel gauge + coolant temperature gauge) may flash under certain circumstances. 2068282.3 Digital instrument panel (FPK) - flickering indicator 2068282.3 Digital instrument panel (FPK) - flickering indicator.pdf

A 2 poster should be adequate, but either way you want the car lifting 6 feet in the air.

Don't mind admitting that I had to google that

B8's have internal bump stops, you don't need the OE guff, refit the boot though to protect the stanchion from stone chips.

Most Bilsteins have bump stops built in so you don't need the standard stuff as well. Which ones do you have?

The part number you supplied is for a mk1 fabia yes EDIT: I got confused - That piece of plastic in the photo probably sits on top of the strut cylinder as a dirt shield.

I no it's gone from suspension to engine but this youtube video explains the 1.5 act tsi https://youtu.be/yoohR8sar5g

Also, the factory going on holiday/shutdowns - the parts aren't there I honestly don't know how the car industry as well as the dealerships are still afloat. If all of us and the rest of the world are waiting for their cars, it's not because the factories workforce are slacking off and taking longer lunches. Worlds gone mad. Bound to be Boris' fault

@TheUltraRunnernobody should. If you have the normal small amount of condensation then great. Those that have the faulty ones with H20 and at times ice and eventually corrosion and the need to replace expensive parts out of a manufactures warranty might be more interested in doing so. Fundamental design, manufacturing or material failures, are something Skoda / VW commonly say 'they all do that' or never seen that before until someone or enough someones calls them out.

Other cars might well have it. Walk around a car super market or car park and look at all the other cars in the same environment / weather / world regions. Pay special attention to Skoda or VW group ones. Vorsprung durch Technik.

That's great, I'll check it out whilst I'm replacing the thermoswitch when it arrives. I may just replace the water pump as I already have a new aux belt to go on as current one is fraying slightly and found a brand new FAI pump for £25 on ebay. It all looks pretty straightforward and accessible from the side. Then the cooling system will then be renewed apart from the radiator and fan

So you are actually saying this happens only with Skoda cars? Although the internet is full of cases also from other brands?

I have told this to the dealer several times, but the answer is the same, the led lights do not heat up 🤦‍♂️

Sorry, the xmass tree is because I removed the steering and it's still removed but just turned on the car (airbag, steering sensor and all). No other lights are on or errors on vcds (forgot to mention that I have one). Just the darn left turn light and cruise.

Pretty normal. As long as you don't have droplets in the lights. Not nice to see but at the end it's just physics. Same as sometimes happens with your windows. The difference is that in the cabin you have AC/ventilation which removes the moisture.

Yeah seems so although I haven't the car back yet so it's early days but I'm optimistic. Thanks for all your time and effort. Happy new year. Best blue.

Yeah,, sorry, off a switched live. Here is a the step-by-step guide I used. Position of fuses may not be the same but these are the fundamentals.

@MicMacI have family in Oslo and are heading there soon for an extended visit to do some work so maybe can help the OP finding what they are after if they are not finding asuitable axle.

Thanks so much RATZER, that video link regards sorting the blower was great and really helped. My blower stopped working, had a look and found the spindle partially seized, with a little rust and also some fine metal dust surrounding the motor body! tried freeing it up but blower still stalled after a minute or two. going to replace motor, pattern part only £48. Thanks again though, gave me confidence to do myself. 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just a quick thought, though I'm not sure it would explain the clicking, being used to old cars I've only just thought of this, I'll ask anyway, when you're trying the horn you have got the ignition turned on?

What penalty clauses for delays did you sign up to If you made a open order, (it is entirely up to supplier if it takes 10 weeks or 10 months, or even 10 years), then sorry to say it is naive. They know they can just ignore you for few years until you eventually cancel. You might think it hurts their reputation, but whilst they can't build fast enough and have a huge waiting list, they are unlikely to worry. Lets be honest, if they can build a vehicle for someone else who is paying 20% more then there is no incentive to build your car, and is unlikely to be anytime soon.

So better route planner says it's 140miles with 30% left. = 20kw at 3kwh ish! = 60 miles total =200miles on a full charge. much better than i thought as keep reading stories of only 140 miles on a full charge in winter.. I'm just used to fill current car with diesel drive 600 miles fill again, whole different world in an electric car.

Your factory installed instruments cluster part number is 5E0 920 941. Virtual cluster part number is one of 5E0 920 790, 5E0 920 790 A

Suspension started knocking again so I pulled the top mount. Bit loose but not super bad but as I carried on to get the strut out I realised the shock was wobbling. Thought I’d broken the shock but it was the silver nut that holds the insert in place. It’d started unscrewing itself, about 3-4 turns! Now done up to FT. Talked to a bodyshop about the cracks - estimate $1k for the roof, $500-1k per side for sills as "They might be a can of worms"

Yes and no. They are all DQ250, but with different sub-name (like the 0D9 in your table). They might share 99% of the components, but as I said, the gear ratios in them are different. Don's dealer wants to do a comparison test with another car. In this case, they have to find another car with the EXACTLY same gearbox. Any difference in gear ratio will make the test less trustworthy since the RPM differences between 1st gear and 2nd gear are not the same now. Other than hardware (gear ratios), I think I saw someone said the software (tuning) was not the same. One tuned toward more smooth, one tuned toward more direct and fast shifting. But just saying, I'm not 100% sure about it. You always want to compare apples to apples.

Just noticed the reg on the yak - very good!

They are just a small car sales with a reasonable workshop attached. They do not do work other than on cars they are preparing for sale and warranty work.

The EA288 in cars registered 1st Sept 2015 onwards is Euro 6. So you've sort of answered your own question by saying its Euro 5.

You need to address the crack and not paper over it, Sikaflex would be my weapon of choice.

No but problem is related as disconnecting the nearside boot light fixes the problem. Either the bulb, housing or diode is no good and therefore messing up the electrics. I'm hoping dealer will replace under warranty this week. I will report back to the couple of threads on here...

I found out what was wrong, i really didn't expect this to be the problem. The positive brass connector had actually snapped and there was no connection at all between the battery and the starter.

Here in Poland we can get pretty nasty snow. This year there was a sudden fall of about 20cm with temperatures later down to -10 and lower. -How do you take care of your car during winter? Especially how do you deal with road salt? If it gets this nasty wet I try to wash the car every week mostly under the car and wheelarches, pointing the jet washer nozzle under the car to suspension points, etc. Jetwash is very popular here and ever bigger village has one, so it's not an issue and costs only about 1 USD for a few minutes worth of spray -but would you go on a journey on a road like this with your car If i had to... the Skoda has the winter tires now (and they do make a hell of a difference, though nothing beats ABS and ESP when it gets compressed-slippery-snow-ice, but my other cars do not. Sadly I had another car with me when the snow had hit... Drive slowly, keep enourmous following distance and aim for well tord places where you have a bigger chance that more cars had churned up the sludge. Also bigger roads get plowed sooner. One more thing about abs/ esp: I used to live at the end a twisty uphill street. When it snowed in, we saw the first plow maybe after a week. My neighbor managed to get up the hill in his ESP'd Opel family van. (not 4x4) I often stayed on the bottom and walked home as even reversing did not work due to it being so twisty and uphill. Car really hated reversing up. -What were the drivers doing in harsh winter conditions with their classic cars even without ABS? Well, they all drove slower. today it's difficult, as the big man behind you in a 4x4 ABS, ESP, SRS and whatnot 200hp Audi will not understand why you want to do 34.5km/h I was taken over in the middle of a snowdrift by a man like that a few weeks ago. Distance distance, and let them front wheels rolling when you want to steer. that's what i do. Ah, good tires do mean a difference. -How do you know when to install tire chains before it's too late. I think when the snow is not yet compacted you can have some chance, but they will not help much if you want to go up on icy road. I tried once and they did the square root of jack, so... I guess it calms your nerves, having them in the trunk, but putting them on in -10 is a turnoff hassle anyway. I could be entirely wrong here and missing vital education about using them, but i had very little luck generally with chains.

To note as well - higher number doesn’t always mean better. Some software isn’t meant for certain modules or brands. also just cause you update the software doesn’t mean there will always be a suitable dataset for your car. im not saying this is always the case but can be the case with certain modules. the vag group do a weird setup and there is no ‘official’ way to update modules that don’t have an outstanding tsb/recall/service action. of course modules can be updated using odis-e with the raw file but you need to know what you’re doing.

So a 1.6 TDI Octavia Estate from 2010. Front wheel drive. Hopefully someone can come along to help you as to what else you can get one from that you can fit. Are the bits on your car OK that you are keeping, hubs, brakes, suspension etc, and how much do you want to be coming with the used axle you buy?

The parts catalogue pages for a 2010 Octavia mk2 rear axle are HERE. If you can identify the part/s you are looking for it will help.

They will have that in writing then from someone in the know. They should be able to give you a copy of what they do when a car has a Full Service History to the Manufacturers Recommendations, Guidelines or schedule'. TELLING CUSTOMERS THE VAQ NEEDS SERVICED WOULD BE A GOOD STARTER. *If in high powered vehicles or driven aggressively then 20,000 miles is recommended. So that is OK.*, they are there to be driven in a spirited manner.

At my local park:

Very nice Ian, hope your keeping well.

Mod #3 Done

I've had my 1.2tsi for nearly ten years now coming to it from a Volvo V50 which was a 1.8 (1.9?) litre diesel with about 30 bhp on the Yeti (from memory), at least on paper. I can honestly say in day-to-day use I never noticed the difference, only that the Yeti was more fun to own and drive and has proved a darned sight more reliable. Over the years I've done several holidays in the West Country with four adults, one large and two small dogs and all the luggage for a self catering holiday (and my wife doesn't understand the concept of "pack light" so I had a large top box on the roof)) and it coped with all the hills very well - changing down a bit earlier than usual and being realistic about acceleration when needed. I'd suggest finding a 1.2tsi for a test drive you will then know if there is enough oomph there for you or whether you need to start the search for a much harder to find 1.4 or 1.8. I have a sunroof but as you are now looking at cars 6+ years old personally I'd avoid it if you have a choice. I'm so pleased with the car that even at nearly 10 years old, and with second hand prices so good, I still have no plans to change it.

Mine has been built and currently in Emden port awaiting a ship to Ireland... should have it by end of month hopefully.

Engine speed sensor is here, I think:

If you are are 100% confident that every inch of the engine bay, and the underside has been checked and double checked the only way your car can be losing coolant is by burning it. Is the car still losing coolant at the same rate? Maybe they didn’t quite get all the air out?

If it's any help, the part number is coming up as 6Y2 955 409

DSG owner here. Mine definitely can't be deactivated in certain circumstances, I think as nicknorman mentioned?

Just thinking about it, I’m fairly sure that the button won’t always work, as a safety feature. If autohold is actually operating, ie the car is being held by the autohold, pressing the autohold button won’t suddenly release the brake and make the car move. For the button to work I think you have to be pressing the brake pedal, or in P, or with parking brake on etc.

I was, then wasn’t. I was indeed looking at venues only last weekend. One in the lakes, one in Denbighshire. One of those, to compliment a more southern one. after such a long break, thanks big c, el Morte and pandemic, I was hoping to get at least two events up for ‘23. there is a good budget, I will be looking for someone to possibly help out, with one or both