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After 14 months of waiting, it has finally arrived !! 😄

It's not just the Fabia, most VW group cars do it (possibly all of them), fuel gauge doesn't really go down for about 60 miles from full, and is poor near the bottom. When low if you go up or down a hill fuel will tilt in tank. Putting in tiny amounts (2.5-3 litres) might not even register that fuel level has been refilled when you restart it. The digital read out is only an estimate based on recent driving style and is to nearest 5 miles anyway. I have refilled after city driving and get some open road and range has climbed 120 miles. If it ever happens again and you are expected to add fuel you use for few miles in a courtesy car, just use the rule of thumb. About litre for every 7 miles.

The EA288 engine can be a nightmare getting the air out. There is a special process in ODIS that takes 900 seconds and this uses the main and auxiliary pumps to get the air out of the intercooler and still fails, I did one on a Golf 7 GTD on Wednesday that another garage were fighting and I started from scratch with a blown clear system (MQB heater matrix...) and put in 6 litres of G12 Evo mix, did the bleed, ran the car up to the fans coming on and it still took another litre, then it came back yesterday, it had gulped the 1/2 litre top up I gave him and need another litre.

Hi all, hope this story maybe of use?, I’ve recently had the same kind of issues with my 2017 L&K Superb 2.0tdi. Pre service getting 67mpg (half tank of diesel) and good performance since bought from Skoda Sheffield Oct 20 till Sept 2022 👍 Then had a local garage carry out service with water pump and timing belt late Sept which started myself noticing mpg decreasing 58-60mpg until end of Nov2022 it got as bad as 43mpg on a long trip (Moray to Glasgow tank and a half later with sluggish performance) with a liking to 2-3sec hesitancy (almost limp mode) Took advice from very knowledgeable and kind members in this forum to seek a second opinion and I contact Victoria Garage (Skoda) Maud 45miles away, any hoo! they tested, road tested scratched their heads and then diagnostics found the engine running cool🤒 and by chance noticing invoice for TB&WP checked out water pump fitted was wrong for my car ( Graf mechanical -non shroud). Up-shot of it all, Victoria Garage were amazing 🫡. They had it replaced with electrical pump with impeller shroud and DPF forced regeneration as clog due to fuel not being burnt off properly. I am glad to confirm 🥳 MPG is now back to normal 67.8 at one point, but at least 63ish mpg. Sorry for the long winded rant, but it’s sometimes handy to get an insight into the circumstances. Paint a picture in way 🤞 Once again BIG shout out to VICTORIA GARAGE (SKODA) MAUD and to the members here point in their direction 🫶🏻

I’m still here she’s been racking up the miles taking me too and from work I use it every day near enough. A few little jobs today as the weather was mild. A result of fitting the Gti loom was that the wing indicators became redundant as I gained the mirror indicators. So I wired them back in as I don’t think you can have too many indicators 😂, and fitted some fresh lenses as my old ones were cloudy. IMG_3039.MOV Also fitted some newer wiper arms as my coating had gone where the blade sits and I could see it everytime I drove her. and my last little job was fitting a non broken connector on my coolant tank as the old one was snapped. much better

Hi all - just to update I had the wrong size tyres changed out and it has appeared to fix the issue! Thanks for the input all.

Good to see you have narrowed it down to what you are after. I did the same and then went looking having had a mk2 1.9tdi estate for 12 years from new. I'd echo the comments about checking the coolant reservoir for a split silca bag. Also get the engine up to temperature and put the blowers on high temp... if its not blowing hot the silica bag has split and blocked the matrix and a dealer will charge 2k to flush and fix the system. Those with a silica bag have "mit silicat" printed on the expansion tank but when mine got replaced the main dealer swapped it with a one without the silica bag under the used car warranty. I bought the car with 29k on the clock in the may so never noticed the heater issue until the winter but luckily within the 12month warranty window. I'd also want a full size spare, I kept the one from my mk2 as it was a similar size rolling circumference but on a 16inch rim. Check the one you have in your mk2 and keep it if you can. The main dealer I used said that wouldn't affect the part ex value on mine coz it was so old and off to auction . Depending on age also look for apple /android car connectivity. My 2016 was on the transition year so car play wasn't activated as standard but can be done for about £140 via main dealers to cover the software licence cost. I haven't bothered to do that. Cheers

All fixed now. The windscreen had been replaced unknown to me as the guys confirmed it. The sealant had not actually adhered to much of the screen as I witnessed. It came out very easily and has been replaced so saving me a lot of cash. Very grateful to Mr Windscreen Ltd who turned up as promised and sorted it at short notice. Now to dry it all out which will require some carpet lifting.

I have the same engine as the OP and the fuel pump in the tank can be heard running for about 5 to10 seconds on switching on the ignition. I wait until it has turned off before starting as otherwise it cranks for longer.

If the front wheels are rotating and the back are not it will think it's slipping and send power to rear wheels.

My Corsa, or actually Motability Finance's was built about 3 years ago but due to lock down not registered until August 2020. Lease is up in August but i intend extending that if there is an issue getting a replacement with things i like with this car, or if i order one in the 3 months before the lease is up i am OK waiting and running this car until whenever. But, it sounds like the motor is going to drop out when going over the very slightest of bumps, road joints, sleeping policeman etc. That is the Drop Links that are shagged. So they need replacing, it already had new rear discs and pads. The car has not had an easy life, and 205/45 17 XL tyres and hard suspension and a heavy car is not the best of idea. Anyway, anyone buying one of these at less than 3 years old where they might have failed a MOT and give an indication of work required needs to be aware that expense could be coming their way. Maybe they will look like a cheap way into an EV, but just take care. & do not assume because an Ex Mobility car it was well looked after because really Vauxhall Main Dealers or the Techs / fitters can be totally hopeless.

What an absolutely ridiculous thing to say. Where’s the next closest dealer?

First check all four tyres are the same size, simple and easy to do.

Just checking that I'm not going mad here... Moving from Economy or Drive at a steady speed or on approach to junction/roundabout into Sport would almost always kickdown a gear right? Feels a bit like I'm getting gaslit by a tech/service dept/Skoda suggesting that modes are just to do with throttle sensitivity mapping and upshift points, and the DSG might just need an adaptation of basic settings or to "relearn my driving style" for 500 miles and not that *it's screwed up* A recent ECU/DSG emissions update seems to have made all of the DSG modes into one (except off-road - that *does* still drop down a gear if at very low revs when engaged) TIA folks.

Autocar comments on new model https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/next-gen-skoda-superb-confirmed-2023-launch

Hi, thanks for the tip, but I failed to include the information that I drove around with PIN screen on the Columbus for around a month, as the display was not responding. There was no change, before or after battery change.

@varooom Worked perfectly 👍🏽 Update took <10 minutes.

Have not had any time this week but remembered that the car had been standing for months before we bought it. Have run a battery recond programme with my Ctek charger, left it for over 48 hours. Unplugged for 24 hrs and got 12,8V which should indicate good condition. Drove a short run now and ran perfect but will go for a long ride and see. Aim to change spark plugs and leads any way. Will come back with how things turned out.

Both my current GTI, and previous vRS (both DQ250's) will drop a cog as I change into Sport mode to bring the revs up. It's what I expect them to do. Our DQ200 Polo GTI also does the same. Gaz

Give in to your other self, get a vRS, remap it to 300bhp and enjoy 😇 Just sayin' Gaz

Which service(s) did you resubscribe to? When I did mine back in November I did two services : Infotainment Online (£36) and Care Connect - Remote Access (£30). AIUI, it is the latter that is needed for the remote lock/unlock function.

@NanoNeoi read your post in the other thread that you got this resolved. It does makes all the difference when there are mechanics around that know what they are doing.

All sorted now using a 64gb USB stick file I loaded yesterday wasn't 100% so deleted and unzipped new file

Anecdotal evidence would suggest that the recent introduction of ethanol in regular unleaded petrol, albeit in relatively small amounts, has a detrimental effect on fuel consumption. Maybe worth trying Super Unleaded to see if the improvement in fuel consumption is worth the additional cost per litre.

Loads of threads in this section on the subject. Rear lights, rear flaps stick, and the rear hatch seal.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. PY21W - offset pins

Cosmetic rust, pads might need replacing, technician or service desk staff might tell you 80% worn when not even 20% worn. You might say how old the car is and how many miles, and what you consider as soon. Servicing brakes annually is an idea, and maybe post pics of the condition if told at a dealership the discs need replaced.

Even with the battery with supposedly more capacity if that comes the the range is pathetic in the cold, then the cockpit and controls and steering wheel are horrible. Shiny plastic to scratch everyplace. The Astra EV estate might be no better but it will not be worse. PS, they are a crossover not an estate no idea why they put that. The Citroen C4 electric actually a better car IMO, funnily can go a bit further which is odd considering the same platform and weight, wheels / tyres etc. 18" ones do work on the bigger cars, 45kW capacity batteries are not enough and even when they have the updates at 48 kW usable that is hopeless if you get 3.2-3.5 miles a kWh and not the 4 miles kidology figure. Peugeot showing 4.75 miles is ridiculous. Actually calculating is not the best of plans. The Range is brutally honest until the Software Update gets done and then it will not tell you that you maybe were getting 3 miles per kW, so x 45 you might get 135, if lucky. It will charge to 98 or 99 % or 100 if you wait long enough and show 180 or 190 miles as it did when the car came off a transporter and got charged the first time.

Fair enough 😁 Was explained to me by my dealer, it's also in the manual. He even showed me where to clip in the petrol cap when refuelling rather than letting in dangle!

Just me it seems 😆 - I would have preferred it to have been configured like a sequential box - pulling stick back under acceleration and pushing forward under braking.

Great news- I’ve sourced the AP6.5Ps! and even better news, Autosound, Blackpool—who are fitting them-have now ordered them direct from Audison. Getting excited now….

I am starting to window shop for a small EV to order later in the year from Motability. The shortages and advance payments will have lots to do with what i might go for. I would like an Estate so that would be a bit bigger, MG or Astra Estate probably as that is all there might be. Must be able to do 200 miles in cold weather though and the Vauxhall probably will not. End of May is the soonest i can order anything. I want Matrix lights, heated seats, heated steering wheel, physical and sensible buttons and placements & comfortable for me, so accelerator the pedal needs to be usable with my left foot, that means many cars are not suitable. Easy in easy out if an upright / hard seat is not what suits me anymore. No BLACK SHINY PLASTIC INSIDE OR OUT. Rules the MG4 out. Wheels that can have tyres with some sidewall and that All Season /All Weather Winter tyres can go on as low profile or EV ECO tyres are sh!te IMO. This quarter there is nothing i would want to go for, so will be watch the next 2 quarters with interest from what Motability have as deals with manufacturers.

Wallbox Pulsar Plus. One person can set their rate and download charging data to a CSV. They can then remove any private charges, friends charging etc in Excel before using the resulting sheet as evidence for claim. Like I said earlier, most smart chargers will offer similar. HTH

Hi @Bigeater, I'm waiting for the new car I ordered, I've decided over the past few months that I've invested too much in the Superb to resell it and therefore it's going to be wify's car. For this reason, I made some small modifications: I reinstalled the original engine mounts (the racing ones caused vibrations), I reinstalled stock rear mufflers. Obviously a setup like this I have to pay more attention using only 100 octane petrol, oil change every year, spark plugs replaced every year. Always let it warm up before pushing and leave it at idle for a few minutes before turning it off. But the car runs very well!

We will try to swap parts from my car. My friend mechanic will do the work. Wishbones are bought new. And support frame is bought as well. Used one athough.

Personally I’d just enjoy it as everything seems to be done

Question: who cares, it was FIVE years ago. @YELLOWFABIA, remove the silly things and see if your indicators start working again!

The For Sale ad on Autotrader has now magically disappeared!!

Haha @silver1011! Thanks for your post - It's good to know you have no problem with yours! Nice outfit btw! 😀

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5j0804968-towbar-lever-skoda-30403.html https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5j0803928-replacement-towing-device-lock-skoda-24909.html Images to go with the above part numbers.

Sorted it now, tied a magnet to a thin length of headphone wire, removed the air vent above the radio screen and lowered it down j til I could hear magnet hit the bottom. I drove around a few corners and hit the brakes a little extra to get the coin to move around and luckily it stuck to the magnet. it was a 2p, so relieved this worked I was ready to start taking the dash apart!

There is nothing to discuss, it is just how it works 😁 sometimes you hear it, sometimes you don't it depends on how hard you slap the door 😀 cars had it for ages, otherwise if someone is inside they ears would pop 🤣

I was informed that my petrol VRS left the factory 19th November, I collected it 13th December. So, fingers crossed you'll have it very soon. Enjoy 🙂

Why are you bothering to tape it in place? It's not come flying off while you have been driving at speed and it will take the fitter a lot of struggling with a hot wire cutter to detach the screen from the remainder of the bonding. There was a simple way to resolve that, one that pedestrians, the partially sighted, mothers with pushchairs etc would all have appreciated.

Welcome to the forim. It is not a 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG. DQ200. It will be a 7 speed Wet. DQ381 with a oil change service at 80,000 miles or sooner. EDIT. Forget HALDEX. I had the other thread about MPG and a 4x4 in my mind. Haldex service interval are at 3 years / 30,000 miles.

Suspension started knocking again so I pulled the top mount. Bit loose but not super bad but as I carried on to get the strut out I realised the shock was wobbling. Thought I’d broken the shock but it was the silver nut that holds the insert in place. It’d started unscrewing itself, about 3-4 turns! Now done up to FT. Talked to a bodyshop about the cracks - estimate $1k for the roof, $500-1k per side for sills as "They might be a can of worms"

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Also, just remembered, if you read the Owner's Manual at start of ownership (or better still before buying) and refer to it when required then you will know more about your car than many long term owners. If you do not have the paper printed copy then you can download a pdf copy from the following link using your VIN or model and (part) year of build. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Had a bit of a panic moment coming back through Dingle. All of a sudden I heard a very loud, rattly noise coming from the front left. Thought it was a bad balljoint or track rod end. But fortunately, or maybe unfortunately it turned out the noise was the new undertray that I put on about a week ago, had broken in several places. It pulled out a metal clip on the subframe that the undertray screws into, causing this noise. I didn't figure this out until I got home. In spite of this, I managed to crack 60mpg, driving more or less normally. Did make a quick pitstop to put some fuel in. Judging from the Range and MPG readouts. I could have done this on one tank.

But you reported an initial decrease in fuel consumption after the cam belt change: If that was the case then any subsequent increase in fuel consumption is likely to be something else but I strongly disagree with the suggestion that faulty preheat plugs will make any difference to the MPG let alone a great difference, maybe, just maybe in the first 30 seconds after a cold start but not thereafter. But for the above a drop in fuel economy after a cam belt change is indicative of them incorrectly setting the cam timing, I'm not sure if your engine will report "Torsion Value" in VCDS but that is a good way to check, otherwise its down to looking at the timing marks, or checking the inlet and exhaust valve clearances to either side of TDC on the firing stroke.

Can I add on this topic with mine? Arrived 2 days ago...