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Just swapped our Superb SEL 190 4x4 dsg estate for this Octavia VRS Challenge. The Superb was a good car but it was just a bit boring to drive.

New plate

The first registered keepers are piling on, the cars manufacturer warranty has just over a year to go. I think the introduction of the Mk4 has nothing to do with those that want to get a vehicle and then sell for more than £2,000 than they pay for it.

@tootWas looking to go on an 1811Kg (apparently) Cupra Born, I know the Kodiak is around 250kg or so lighter depending on engine/spec. @varooom Title edited for clarification 😄

Ooops, not quite what I meant Varoom, I didn't explain very well ! I meant what is the wheels maximum load rating 😃 E.g. most aftermarket wheels of this size look to be in the 650-700kg range.

Deprecation is worse when the car is newer. The price on second hand cars bought over the last 1-2 years are / were high because of high demand at the time. Just look at the lack of choice of new smaller cars you can buy new now, compared to 3 years ago. If you want low deprecation on a car then what I try to do is:- Buy the car new with any extras you need for a little as possible. Keep the car long term. Look after the car with the plan to keep it long term. Two examples:- Bought a new Peugeot 307 in 2003 for £10K. About 25% under list price. Sold in 2016 for just over £1K at 130K miles with everything still working. So a 90% deprecation over 13 years = 7% per year. Car is still in use today. Bought a new Fiat Panda in 2009 for £7K. Scrappage deal bargain.😁 Still have the car and everything still works at over 130K miles. If scrapped for £0 it will have deprecated 100% in 14 years = just over 7% per year. Thanks. AG Falco

VW Group / Skoda are big on this 2 year interval stuff including the first brake fluid changes. Anyone would think they were fined billions for defeat devices, then there was a pandemic. and a semi- conductor shortage and they need dealerships to get more work. Or. Have they found with the VAQ just like with the Haldex that the intervals were wrong, and the same with brake fluid that used to be first at 2 years then each 2 over a decade ago, then was changed to first @ 3 years then each 2.. Maybe the can make it clear in Owners Manuals since owners / drivers do not get Service Books. Mk3 VAQ's. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/471790-vaq-haldex-on-2016-pfi-230vrs-does-it-have-one-and-the-service-interval http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/494489-front-differentil-service-vrs-245 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/482132-vrs-vaq-diff-servicing

I've got a petrol hatch in Hyper green and i'm happy I chose it. It gets quite a lot of attention, with most people really liking the colour. However if you wish to be a bit lower profile, it may not be the the best choice for you! As always, different colours, different options & different cars for different people, you pay your money & take the choice that makes you happy

I am 99% certain that you need part number 5JC 959 565 REH (colour choice) for a RHD car, note the the orginal part was superseded, so odds are some flaw exists. Plenty of examples on eBay or any other site should you wish, £36.73 +VAT is price at dealers to give you a ballpark. And yes I would replace as wing mirrors are essential for pulling out and not hitting bikes/motorbike/cars (looking over shoulder as well of course)

Table from dealer. In the left side of table is my numbers. Diff time exacly the same as dealer sayd

I don't doubt that, but since a DSG isn't a conventional slushbox auto...

hi guys, I managed to open my amp because I want to use other speakers. So made some pictures. Please administrator take some of them and put it on the forum, because the link will be available 5-10 days. I see that I can upload 10mb max, pictures are 250 mb. Thanks in advance ! Waiting for some commends http://dox.bg/files/dw?a=2c7edc9788 you must check the box of Canton amp.rar and push "Изтегли избраните". If you want to upload them on some other site, please just say.

Forgot to say... The switch on the Fabia gave up in a similar manner so I stripped it down and found some grease inside had thickened and stopped it staying in position

Didn’t even write anything

I think this has been seen before.

I have a blocked matrix now I am getting sorted. Coolant was rusty. Had blocked matrix 4 years ago but wasn't aware of the "tea bag" at the time so didn't push Skoda. Car was just under 4 years and got a flush. There is something suspicious going on with VAG and these matrix clogs. I am expecting a call from a customer relations manager this week. I spoke in length to service manager at local dealership who was helpful. When I had issues last time the dealership said that the coolant was contaminated. Almost suggesting that I put something in the system which is a ridiculous. The flush worked for 4 years and now have same problem. I suspect that there is corrosion in engine or radiator. Shouldn't be happening after 75k, 8 years and the cooling system has never been touched other than Skoda dealer up until just before Xmas when local garage did timing belt and water pump. No way that they could have caused damage in such a time that affected the matrix. It might be the tea bag. Might be something else.

I’m pretty sure that if the disc is vented, carrier has to come off, but the solid discs can be slid out with it in place, in most cases in my experience

If you need a hand with part numbers, PM me and i can help supply exactly what is required.

Slightly off topic Towelie, but interested in your thoughts comparing the new Octavia vRS (petrol?) to your Mk7.5 Golf GTI PP once you've owned it for a while. We have the same Golf and I'm thinking about replacing it with a bigger car sometime.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Vehicle prices were high, particularly s/hand (pre-owned / pre-loved) because of the pandemic, chip storage, lack of new cars and the aftermath effects of those. There's a war, energy prices, cost of living, interest rate rises (from record lows). A trade-in value is just one side of a deal in buying a replacement car, increase trade-in offer will mean decrease in money off replacement vehicle and vice-versa the dealer is only interested in the profit and perhaps changing or moving on stock to have less lower profit and more higher profit stock. An ordinary buyer is lucky to get over-valued trade-in and at the same time under-valued replacement vehicle (cake and eat it, twice). Who knows for 2024, perhaps the bubble bursting on EV will mean petrol cars have more value because of this. Unless you're in the trade or at very top-end vehicles swapping every few years is possibly an expensive or very expensive way of purchasing overall. ETA: you need to add monetary inflation, lost interest/investments, running costs of vehicles plus other stuff I can't think of now to AG Falco's figures. Best bet is not to have a car. 🙂

The Manufacturers said a replacement engine cover would coming. They actually put that in writing. @TheWandererposted £128 as the cost. Others told get it done sometime. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/494489-front-differential-service-vrs-245/page/2

So went in for my first service at just over 15.5 k miles and 21 months old car. I have an issue with the gear selector lever of the DSG, so while the car is in, thought to have it serviced. After I left the car, they called me and said - "oh, it's recommended to change the brake fluid, but that's not covered in your service plan. Here's an invoice for 91 quid. Also, it's recommended to change the oil of the front diff (I only have 1 diff, but hey-ho) every 2 years - £120 (or something, can't remember, but will confirm), but we need to order the oil first, so we'll have to rebook you to come back." I'm like - erm, I booked the car for servicing more than a month ago. Surely you knew it needed oil change of the front diff... They said - well, every car is different, and blah-blah... anyways, so back in on the 25th for the gear lever mechanism change and diff oil change... At least they fixed some of the software issues I had, but took my engine cover away. After asking them if a replacement is coming, the answer was - nope, we just remove the old ones and throw them away... so much fun

You’ve made a neat job of that, certainly. I’m sticking with physical, tactile buttons and dials as long as I can however. But like I said, good work 👍🏻

It's all in the manual on informant settings driving data select then indicator stalk toggle up and down press button underneath

Wow.. what a quick response. Thanks @varooom!

If you are talking about the UK then UK sales outlets always have to stuff in substantial margin as the car is going to be sold in that rather little used currency GB pounds and then the money has to be converted back in to Euros which is the base currency for car production at least in Europe. So published RRPs are high but dealers have big scope to offer discounts on the price and even on the finance if you keep pushing them. I would agree a car like my Renault Zoe has/had a massive RRP, think it was around £34.5k for my Riviera spec ZE50. But one pay nothing like that as the price. Government grant was about £2K I think, Renault were doing £5k off, got the finance at very low rate which count as heavily subsidized so the eventual cost was probably like £27k, £20k after I traded in my Old Octy with lots of miles on it. Residual are pretty high, way higher than diesels for same mileage and probably up with the best of efficient petrol cars. Fuel costs are about 2p a mile running on cheap night-time electricity, road tax is zero in 2021 and through to 2025 when my PC runs out, servicing cost are a fraction, I would say about a third, of internal combustion cars. Total monthly cost of ownership ie PCP, fuel, insurance in the region of £300 to £310 I reckon and I expect a good surplus of value in the car at the end of the PCP, despite a large drop in Tesla values as not really competing in that part of the EV market. Shame UK does not get the Dacia Spring yet, hopefully next year, as that would shake up the UK EV market. 20K Euros so about £18k when launched in the UK.

It is a DQ200 7 speed dry twin clutch DSG as standard on a 250 Nm or less FWD VW Group Petrol or diesel less than a 2.0 lt. (as long as it is not a Hybrid, then it can be a 6 speed wet.) @NeilMHwhere did you find conflicting answers to that?

I've got it and its a real pleasure for the eye It's brighter than in the configurator though.

This is very old prices. Scgedule is 2k19y date. Dont look at the prices. I dont know the prices because my car is 11kkm 5months. Only know oil change setup is 240euros

A lot of aftermarket units have any issue with OEM sound systems. You must either get the unit that is guranteed to work with OEM sound system or return to OEM system - either Columbus RNS510 or Bolero / Amundsen MIB STD2 PQ unit.

Just had an update from the dealer yesterday, he updates me every two weeks, originally week 7 build now week 5, ordered end of November 2022. I certainly was not expecting such a speedy turnaround 🙂

Hi there. No, no need for reprogramming. It's a straight fit in the new part job. Just keep in mind that you need a switch with the wide connector.

You didn't, but since the fastest ways to the lowest points in a sealed system are through the seals at those points...

Diff oil change interval is 2years/60k km, which is faster. I have all service dates on o paper from skoda dealer

EV's have always been over priced imo, so this does'nt surprise me, like all things new, prices start off higher than they should be, then we get the inevitable correction i think we will see other manufacturers dropping prices soon 😀

Thanks !

Just like to say a big “Thank You” to Breezey Pete for repairing my Skoda Roomster Window control unit. Absolute legend and a very fast turn around on the repair. Sent back to me within a day.

Absolute pleasure, thanks for the shout out. Thanks @varooom for drawing my attention to it.

Hard to say if excessive because it's not something that we would normally see when driving, the cable gear linkage ensures that the movement is not transferred to the gear lever, I remember when most engines had double that movement just idling at tickover and where on taking up the drive on a MK1 Mini the long gearlever would hit the dashboard or on later versions with the solid remote it would be hammering its way up through the floorpan! Bush does look worn and is likely to be responsable for the vibration.

First place I would look as the dog bone mount under the engine.

Very common this time of year, roads are often wet. Will rust much faster when splashed by damp from a salted road, as the salt water is lot more corrosive than pure rainwater. There is not much you can do to change it apart from move to a hot dry country. If a dealer tries the high percentage worn trick, ask for the millimetre readings. I once had a dealer say my brake pads were 75% worn (never used them since), another dealer following year said pads just over half worn, so pads apparently grew back about 20% in a year.

I think it counts as misting when you buy it as approved used from the dealership or when it's still in warranty. It becomes a catastrophic leak endangering the public when you take it in for a service the day after the warranty expires. 😂

Given the delivery time for me ordering in 2021 was 13 months, unsure it will have improved much since then! I heard very little until my car was on the way to the dealer.

Cosmetic rust, pads might need replacing, technician or service desk staff might tell you 80% worn when not even 20% worn. You might say how old the car is and how many miles, and what you consider as soon. Servicing brakes annually is an idea, and maybe post pics of the condition if told at a dealership the discs need replaced.

That's exactly the reason why I was saying it's not normal... Because most similar cars don't have this effect clearly visible, while other cars have plenty of condensation - when all exposed to similar conditions. I remember @toot was mentioning recently on a different topic: you go through a large parking filled with cars that were there over night in cold, foggy or rainy weather - few cars will show plenty of condensation, but most of them will not. Which would obviously mean that condensation is not a standard feature for all cars, but it's either a design failure of a specific brand on a specific model or a defective headlight. The question I asked weeks ago still remains unanswered by "condensation experts" around here. Where do you draw the line between "normal behavior" and "warranty replacement"? There's no line on the headlight marked "above this limit we replace the headlight", there's no standardization as to what's the outside temperature and the air humidity to achieve a certain amount of "normal condensation". Obviously, the dealer response will vary from dealership to dealership, as it was the case for other obvious fails presented on this forum (e.g. software updates, steering wheel replacement etc.) It's ok, don't panic; you're not expected to understand... p.s. I'm hoping not all of your 9.2k posts are as useful to this forum community as you last posts on this topic...

headlight aim can pass an MOT requirement easily as there is a larger tolerance.............. but it does not mean they are set for optimum vision for the driver. If you can get it on a beam setter at garage, then set them at 0.5% (max height), it makes a huge difference to what you see at night. If you still want brighter bulbs, I use what "were" called Philips extreme power, def improvement over what was fitted, remember also even just new bulbs can make a difference, depending on how old the ones fitted are, the Philips are now called Xtreme vision..... https://www.philips.co.uk/c-m-au/car-lights/headlights/latest#availability=all&filters=CAR_HEADLIGHTS_SU%2CFK_X-TREMEVISION_PRO150 Lots of people use Osram Night breakers to, cannot comment never used those myself, but had the Philips in 3 cars now.

I have the same 272.sportline plus. Late 2018 68 plate. Velvet red. it is 7speed dq381 better box. Does rev lower at motorway speeds. It has gpf AND it still has exhaust flaps if you are that way inclined lol. Amazing car and mine is lowered on koni special actives with H&R springs and has the box and engine mapped. With r600 induction , Racingline elbow and pipe and turbo muffler delete.. golf club sport discs..370bhp 530nm. And still returns high 30’s sometimes low 40’s on a steady run:

You best buy an extended warranty from Skoda / VW, or start a campaign online / on social media to have VW Group / Skoda UK giving an extended warranty free gratis on something they have had several years now to get to grip with snagging faults but they have failed badly with.

Thank you very much,you saved me.I just fix the headlights and everything works perfectly now!

It's not just that the cover can get loose over time. Even if it's not loose, it can start melting. This one (not mine) was still firmly attached to the motor and when the owner took it of, it was already melted a bit on the back side near the turbo.