Leaderboard

Mr Grump, this website might be worth a look. Its lists the details of a lot of VAG wheels and also the load on some of them. Some also have the load certificates attached: Audi VW Original Felgen Übersicht Felgenprogramm 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 Zoll (original-felgen.com)

@SurreyJohn Interesting, that was not something I had considered, but I see your point, thank you. The 630kg standard wheel load information was provided by @varooom, I did not know that either so thanks varoom @toot Yes I have the car now. I plan on running all seasons, but did not want to end up with 4 tyres alone, if/when the car is replaced as I found out its not easy to shift just tyres. I wanted to be able to just swap the wheels back to stock and have a wheel/tyre set either to sell or to use on the next car. I have found an aftermarket set I am happy with after some searching, and they are load rated for 690kg, so in excess of the stock ones. However, they are not cheap, so I have also been keeping and eye out for some decent S/H VAG wheels that are good or only need minor refurb work, but was unsure of where to find their load ratings.

The Cupar V1 kerb weight is 1811kg, but page 28 of the brochure also shows a gross (loaded) weight of 2270kg. I think you should be using this, not kerb weight. https://www.cupraofficial.co.uk/content/dam/countries/gb/cupra-website/download-documents/2022/v2_cars_models_cupra_born-pricelist-K11-12-2022.pdf If there was perfect weight distribution would be 2270/4 = 568kg, but I would assume at least 10% extra for cornering forces and uneven weight split, so get a figure of about 625kg. So your wheel at 630kg sounds right Never looked at that brochure before, but see you can have all-season tyres on 19 inch rims for £150. Lot more sensible than Skoda that often doesn't have them available on middle size rim.

Request a written statement that the hotel battery was fully tested and is undamaged. I'm really interested if they will do that.

10 months later and I sat in a car park this morning and had problems stopping the engine so when I got home it was time to give it a go... Thanks to all that provided photos and tips so far - I've taken a few more to fill in any gaps. First of all this is the (blurred) view from underneath the steering column showing the torx screw to undo Once that's done drop the steering column to the lowest possible position and pull out the wheel as close to yourself as possible. Leave the adjustment leaver down otherwise it gets in the way later... Now pull the top cover towards you a little until you can grasp it and then lever it up out of the way. I didn't try detaching it at the back and just propped it up. At this point I started the engine when I realised I had to turn the wheel. First of all I turned the wheel a quarter turn left so that I could get to the left-hand screw. This is quite fiddly to extract once loose as there's not quite enough room to get the screw out without tilting it sideways and I lost it into the bottom case. Turn the wheel to the right to access the other screw and repeat. Strangely I found the access to the screw uneven as if the shroud wasn't symmetrical. At this point the lower shroud can be gently wiggle downwards - don't pull it too much as the wires are (obviously) attached to the stop/start button. I found that carefully rotating the shroud around gave me better access to the connectors. The aerial connector has a clip that needs pressing in with a small screwdriver in order for it to be disconnected. The switch connector clip sits under the red arrow - press this down towards the front of the switch with a small screwdriver and gently pull the wire connector in the direction of the yellow arrow. At this point I took the shroud into the house to continue, To remove the switch from the shroud insert a small screwdriver down the side of the two metal clips and press the clips in. I found that I could do one clip at a time by gently holding the switch to one side. Then push the switch out from behind. (No picture for this one) The metal clips need removing from the switch. They have small locking tabs in the middle that need levering out a little. I used a screwdriver in the hole at the top of the clip to push it out. You may want to stab yourself in the hand with said screwdriver whilst undertaking the manoeuvre... As others have noted the label needs peeling back a little to reveal the fourth plastic locking tab. I also used a couple of pins to hold two of the tabs open whilst popping out the other two. At this point I stabbed myself with the pins and the switch fell apart. With the top removed and the components recovered the switch should look like this - note orientation of the circuit board. When disassembled (and kept in the same orientation) it looks like this: I found that the metal contacts on the circuit board were clean and the dirt was on the blue contact pads in the rubber. I used isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud to clean all the parts. Reassembling the switch is the reverse of the above though note that once the metal clips are in place the locking tabs will need pushing back into position again. Once the switch is back in the lower shroud and connected back up it's just a case of jiggling to have it fit around the stalks. Though there appear to be clips at the back of it they don't seem to engage with anything. With the engine on again the two screws next to the steering wheel can be reinserted. They have captive nuts behind them and I needed to wiggle to line them up. To fit the top shroud look closely at the back - the two circled areas have a hook on the bottom shroud that act like hinges when clipping the top back in. This then helps line everything up to be clipped back together and the lower torx screw to be put back. My ignition button is like new again.

Thanks, I will mention it to the dealer at the next opportunity. They have already put a few things right for me and have been good as gold so far. It's a new to me 2018 car, I got it in December 2022. Dealer is Citygate, Bushy, Watford.

There was probably around £2.5-3k "spread" factored into the price you bought at, and are now being offered trade-in values at. That is to say, the car's trade value when you paid a retail price of £17.5k in July was probably about £14.5-15k. So, in the trade, your car hasn't depreciated much at all. What you have done, however, is paid a one-off and upfront fee for a dealer to find, prepare and warrant your current car. If you buy another car from a trader, then you will be paying this again. One analogy would be house moving costs such as stamp duty, estate agent & removal fees etc. Trade prices generally rose throughout 2020 to late 2022, meaning that a 3-year old car cost more in 2022 than a 3-year old car did in 2021 etc. This trend hid some of the above costs for a while, but the consensus is that this has now peaked. It's unclear whether ongoing supply factors such as model consolidations, long waits etc will be outweighed by a fall in demand as borrowing and living costs increase. So, I disagree that there has been any substantial underlying depreciation in this example. Costs of purchase are normal, and have been borne - that's all.

Very common this time of year, roads are often wet. Will rust much faster when splashed by damp from a salted road, as the salt water is lot more corrosive than pure rainwater. There is not much you can do to change it apart from move to a hot dry country. If a dealer tries the high percentage worn trick, ask for the millimetre readings. I once had a dealer say my brake pads were 75% worn (never used them since), another dealer following year said pads just over half worn, so pads apparently grew back about 20% in a year.

After 14 months of waiting, it has finally arrived !! 😄

Do other man's service plans really include that stuff? A colleague just got a new car (Mazda) and was looking at the plans. I suggested looking at what was included and he's gone the route of paying piece meal.

Yes, Elegance is the top trim spec.

What does it have to do with me other than for general interest?

Maybe nothing if no need to. If no issues, then no issue. ? How long have you had the car? @varooomwill likely know the scores on the doors.

steel grey

Welcome, seems like you have some knowledge to share and project to post about (people love to follow these!)

P.S. I don't use stop start as it really ****es me off.

OT with the OP's problem. For @nta16 even @J.R. This was the issue that meant a World Wide Recall to change the oil on 2009-2012 DQ200's. Change oil synthetic to mineral and a software update. Only a Service Campaign in Europe started 2 years after the World Wide recall. The Service Campaign in New Zealand was only needed on a few hundred cars so all got a new MCU. In China VW put a 100,000 mile / 10 year warranty on the DQ200.

It’s always typical when I do a dump run that the bits people need are what I’ve just thrown. Yes it comes complete with the seatbelt as they are riveted together sadly. your best bet would be a breakers yard and just drill the rivet out and replace it - would be a whole lot cheaper. (rivet is just for locating and doesn’t actually secure the belt buckle, if it was safety related I wouldn’t recommend it)

Time for an Auto specialist that does DQ200's. Well not the 'Overheating' symbol, and your DSG if still the original is too young for the 'Flashing Spanner'. Later 2012-2013 common the cars that never got 34F7' or '34H5'. Sadly likely the MCU. ? Did you car get '34F7' and the oil change and software update since 2014? You have done quite well getting to 2012 if this is the first the DSG has needed fixed. Maybe not a replacement MCU, it can get refurbed. How are the clutches though? Someone in the know will be along. DQ200 2013-2015 was more the pressure issue hence 34H5 started in 2017, software update. See his other vids on DQ200's

Somebody will know, but if there is nobody about put on the rear fog light to help illuminate behind while reversing.

Thanks, Lee! As always, I was told by my best mate that I'm another year older but not any wiser, the cheeky sod that he is, but I can't disagree.

Mmmmm, i'm more inclined to think certain parts/materials 🤔

I think, it depends on which kind of driver you are! But personally I haven't had any problems with that.

Looks good 🤝

0359 -> 0369 sent via PM so technically there is an update

I will send link via PM

The 2015 Scout and diesel VRS DSGs have the same setup, barring my lack of paddles. Depending on the "driving mode" selected via button, pulling back on the lever switches from E to S or D to S.

Oh god how much fun this has been! £210ish in just over a fortnight, with another couple of bits that still need fixed. In no real order: Battery was pan breid. 65 of your finest smackeroonies. Needed a wheel bearing. Nearly 150 quids. Beyond that, it's been trouble free and I'm totally not at my wits end as I can hear the clunking of drop links and Christ knows what else. Coolant temperature sensor is coming in the post, will fit that and top up any anti-freeze that decides to make a bid for freedom. It has the MOT test next month too, that'll be a fun one. There's nothing 'big ticket' that I can imagine it failing for beyond emissions due to this running rich (it thinks it's running lean) issue, which I'm hoping will be sorted by this coolant temperature sensor. If that sorts it, it'll be good for another year, I hope. Beyond all the doom and gloom, I've been ****ing about with coding stuff using one of those 'LAUNCH' devices you see the YouTubers go on about. My Grampa bought one for his Insignia and it does a cracking job with the Fabia too, having enabled the auto lock/unlock, and hopefully* the trailer indicator dash warning doowhacky. *I say hopefully, as I haven't tested it with the trailer yet. So, dear reader, this is where you and in turn, myself, are up to. It's chaos here as my car is shoogled to bits thanks to East Ayrshire Council's road maintenance, or lack thereof. Now, if you'll excuse me, there's a coffee and a slice of my birthday cake from a few days ago beckoning me.

I cannot give an accurate part number, you need VIN decoded results.

It has to be a new belt, if you broke the double-socket you would have been able to buy separately.

Thanks Nigel, will try that Steve

That's not the latest version... Not surprising as it seems you have a cloned/pirated VCDS interface based on your thread over at Ross-tech's forums: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/35427/

I'm amazed that anybody would dislike the very convenient creep characteristic of automatic gearboxes. In fact I can't remember the last manual car I had that didn't creep forward on idle when in gear. What's not to like?

Maybe look for an engine from a written off Euro 6 1.2 TSI, cam belt, or a 1.0 TSI pre GPF in 2017/18. Like this TSI into a Citigo. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/499372-trevorb33's-citigo-vrs-up-gti-conversion There was a TT-RS engine in this early on. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/447378-citogo-reincarnated-by-darkside-first-tdi-citigo

The 1.2 has 77kW/175Nm. And it should be quite reliable once the timing chain is sorted out. 1.9D is limited by its injection system turbo doesn't help that much (1.9TD had some 55kW?) Turboing the 1.3 is better The biggest issue with 1.2TSI will be electronics. I'm not sure if it can work without other system connected to CAN bus. Also, they have different bolting pattern to old EA111 engines used in 6N Polo - I'm not sire if either Felicia adapter fits.

For guidance...

You can adjust it via the hinges, the preferred way or do the quick and dirty trolley jack and block of wood but the A pillar is strong enough to raise the weight of the car by the rear of the door without moving, you will need to jump up and down on the cill to give it a helping hand. I advise you to ignore the halfwit with the 35mm cube of clean old clean sponge which together with GT85 and photos of lubricants gets trotted whenever an opportunity presents, I think it might be some sort of a challenge, in any case it is not going to raise your dropped door.

Ah your title is wrong 🤣 oh well, I tried 😁

OP is just talking about moving the shifter to the S position, not pressing the mode button. If you're slowing down then it will start dropping gears. OP say's his is not doing that, so there is a fault.

Hi @DadWagon, I might as well add my tuppence worth to this topic. I'm not sure what is actually motivating the change since you seem quite happy with the mk2 and I can understand this as my old mk2 estate (with 1.9pd) was a joy to drive, especially after a couple of Korean MPV and SUV family dictated needs vehicles. I'm guessing your mk2 has independent rear suspension, which you would lose by transferring to the mk3 with rear torsion beam on the lower power versions (irs only on 4wd and vrs models). The latter is not well regarded by some in this forum although I found that driven normally, on normal roads I cannot tell much difference between them. However on Australian dirt roads the mk2 irs and the 15 inch tyres provided a far better ride of the two but that's probably not a real issue around Maidstone . I'd personally avoid any bigger wheels than 17 inch though. There is better space for rear passenger in the mk3, Halogen headlights are slightly better, but even more so in the face lift version of the mk3 but higher spec headlights are recommended if you drive on unlit sections. The mk3 is quite a light vehicle for its size with the smaller petrol engines fitted and so are quite nimble and potentially very economical if you drive 'sensibly'. I drive more sensibly than my wife but even she averages around 6L/100 around town. Like @Rodge I only drive manuals so cannot comment on DSG versions. Good luck with your search and try to get a few test drives to see what you are getting, or losing, with a change.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. From that the first thing I would do is check the battery's state of charge. Even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery can still be too low for the computers and their programs and they will throw up all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages. First thing noticed is often the start/stop becomes in operative, then perhaps power steering light but other miscellaneous lights and warnings can show up. Check out any number of threads on here. Check the battery state of charge at the posts a couple of hours after the car has been parked up. To allow for variations if the reading is say at or below 12.3V then fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger but don't be in a rush with it, avoid fast charging, it could take overnight and more ,see the details in your Owner's Manual. If you haven't got the time or patience first time to fully recharge the battery then repeat the recharges until the battery is fully recharged. At the worst doing this will cost very little mains electricity, take a small amount of effort and a bit of time and having the battery in a good state of charge will help with problem solving and diagnosis whereas in a low state of charge it could hinder or cause issues. Just driving the car often is not good enough to recharge the battery fully or enough. Link for pdf copy of Owner's Manual in case you don't have your paper printed copy. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Let us know how you get on.

EV's have always been over priced imo, so this does'nt surprise me, like all things new, prices start off higher than they should be, then we get the inevitable correction i think we will see other manufacturers dropping prices soon 😀

The stuff from Kopacek r pretty much OEM, so the quality and fitment will b perfect. I removed the factory chrome grille frame surround and replaced it with the black Sportline frame. It was perfect fit on the original grille. The box/packaging is OEM, as per my pics above. U have nothing to worry about with Kopacek parts. I've been buying stuff from them over the past 10 yrs.

I have the same 272.sportline plus. Late 2018 68 plate. Velvet red. it is 7speed dq381 better box. Does rev lower at motorway speeds. It has gpf AND it still has exhaust flaps if you are that way inclined lol. Amazing car and mine is lowered on koni special actives with H&R springs and has the box and engine mapped. With r600 induction , Racingline elbow and pipe and turbo muffler delete.. golf club sport discs..370bhp 530nm. And still returns high 30’s sometimes low 40’s on a steady run:

Have you had the beam aim checked?

SE L only has basic rear lights so single reverse light. Basic Upgraded

It is worth noting that not all of those are relevant to the Kodiaq. The versions of Lane Assist fitted to the Kodiaq are all able to affect steering input, seemingly one of the main requisites of the legislation. The reality is, even though we're no longer in the EU, we'll still likely benefit, or suffer from (whichever side of the fence you're on) from EU legislation on our imported vehicles for quite some time yet. The now standard Lane Assist being an example, and additionally the more recent need to now turn it off after each cycle of the ignition. UK led legislation has had it's successes over the years, dim-dip headlights were a good one (in my opinion) especially when you consider where we are currently with DRL's without tail lights. I'm sure there are more examples too. As you say, interesting times ahead!

Haven't tried with O4, as i had it by default, however i was able to active it for a friend of mine in his Formentor. If i iremember correctly, it was same coding as in following thread: https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/13732/wireless-android-auto In some cars it also required activating 5GHz WLAN, but in his car it was already enabled.

Great write up, just followed this myself. Longest part was a tie between removing/fitting glove box to access the fuses and trying to retrieve a screw that I managed to drop down the air vent! But now I have a daughter who can play on tablet on long journeys. 🙂 I certainly recommend the official cig lighter removal tool, took about 30 seconds to the lighter out.