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I am taking a break, thanks for your kind words.

Ok - but please make sure you come back

When you haven’t got a lot to go on all you can do is go round and check the obvious or get an idea or have a guess and then try and prove it’s not that and move on to the next. last fuel issue I had on a polo 1.4 PD about 10 years ago took me a while to sort. Most mornings it would start and then die instantly and then take a lot of cranking to get going. To cut a long and boring story short I faffed around for weeks trying different things with the lift pump, hoses and filters working my way through the fuel system. I then bought a second hand tandem pump and when I came to fit it the suction hose to the pump came off really easy, it never leaked a drop but it must have been loose enough to suck a load of air in on the first start of the day. A 50p hose clip later and it never failed to start again! Nobody ever has the same fault, but it’s worth checking round at all the fuel hoses, injector connector, sensors, anything you can see just give it a prod or a wiggle, you might just be lucky enough to find something! Good Luck!

Very interesting, I defiantly would not do it myself, luck with these things is not on my side. I have ordered the 6A version and should arrive tomorrow, will let you know how it goes. That's also interesting, I will have a look around if I get the chance to see if this is the case on the actual battery and not just the cover. very true, I think 5 years is not that old yet anyway but who know how it was used.

HI and thanks for the interest I'll answer as many as I can; rest tomorrow Battery Charger Charging: Battery behaving as usual. Connected charger to battery in car (so 'on car') and left it. Came back 4 or so hours later and the charger had turned itself off 'cos battery was 'full' Charger is a FOXSUR model FBCX122308D 12v 8A / 24v 4A charger Charging figures from only 1 instrument (connected to cigarette lighter socket) Can do again with multimeter directly to battery terminals VCDS does not report voltages other than terminal 30 (wherever that might be) which was reported during the scan as different values 11.4 (near the start) and 12.0v (at the end) Off for a 30 minute M-way drive this evening (and 30 min back) so will check after that and test tomorrow

Yes guess they are different animals, but I'm sure someone who has a car the same as me is reading this post with interest and may find any info helpful.

Thank you, pretty pleased with it!

As you can gauge from the posts above @varooom, such a choice is widely disagreed with! I would also add my voice to say that your contributions to Briskoda have helped numerous members and would be sorely missed. Hopefully you will reconsider.

I used the USB-c socket by the rear view mirror also. I had it hard wired into the previous car and it's so much easier to use the socket. One small cable, that's it.

For those who have been around a bit may remember my DIY camper build: Well I used that for a fair few years then as life changes it wasn't getting used as much, so I sold it (tidy profit). Fast forward a few years, Covid, divorce, relocation and I felt like the camping itch was back. So after discussing with my partner we decided to have a look about. And this is the result.. No self build this time, shooting for a built one. Needs a little 'modernization' as a lot of campers/caravans do, but it has all the things we need. Rock'n'roll bed, fridge, sink, oven, storage a plenty. Clever use of space being a short wheel base, but fine for the two of us and the doggo. A good scrub up, some new curtains, and maybe get the furnishings re-upholstered and I'll be more than happy.

Make & Model: Skoda Fabia VRS MK1 2004 Colour: Black Mileage: 172,834 Price: £500 Description: Fully running 2004 Mk1 Fabia VRS. Failed recent MOT due to passenger front door not opening (this is intermittent and think it may need door lock module replacing). Timing belt is due replacement believe it was last changed at 120k along with clutch. Front brake hoses also need replacing. I'm not in a position to get the above work done and get it back on the road and don't want to see it scraped. Would be a good project car for someone who can do the above work. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Previous major service was in June 2022 and AC was also re-gased. Usually serviced at MOT time each year but has been patchy and don't have full service records. Extras: N/A Mods: Revo remap before my ownership and aftermarket alloy from a SEAT Leon Cupra R (2002 - 2005) Shipping: N/A Collection: Yes - TN16 Pictures: Contact for more pictures

Maybe we could have a Banned Leaver Log, to compliment the Banned User Log 😁 The 'Oh, no you don't' list, aka the 'Hang on just one doggone minute/sonny Jim' feature. Taking a break sounds a much better option 👍 G

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes please do. Another poster ordered one but found the pictorial instructions difficult to follow, perhaps the unit was too easy or not automatic enough for what he was expecting (despite having the hyperlinks to look at). For 12v car, connect up to car (or battery), plug in to mains, press selector button once for 12v car and a second time for 12v car winter setting. The leaflet doesn't say but I take the winter setting as to be used for charging when the temperature is below (+/plus)5c. I could put something else but that might be auto-suggestion and it might not be relevant now, if you mention it I will refer to this and if you don't I'll mention it as a total generalisation. Have a look at the other terminal cover for part numbers and date and see if that varies too, you'd think they be available or fitted as pairs, but . . . I do too but I bet the Dealers say 5 years and the newer the car the more the battery has to do, jumps from 2015 to 2017 and again to 2022/3. I think we're back to the stage where some sort of battery gauge is required on cars. Let us know when you've fully recharged the battery how things went and are with the car. Cheers.

varooom thanks... for the quick reply and your help

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Got interrupted - I also meant to put you can get batteries tested at various places, mainly because they want to sell you a new one of course but there are some honest people around. Are your charging figures just off one instrument have you confirmed them by using another instrument that you know to be reasonable accurate and reliable?

@DBSurrey Is your car a Front Wheel Drive, so not AWD & no Haldex and a DQ200 DSG? No DSG oil change by years. & a DQ381 is @ 80,000 miles. A DQ200 DSG requires no Oil changes. This was the Fixed Price in 2021 @ participating dealers for 4 spark plugs, not exceeding 2 litre engines and not a Citigo. But still a 3 cylinder 1.0.

Thanks for the info. They did inform me that the water pump would not need to be involved in the cam belt change but I felt their explanation of the reason for the more expensive cam belt was not convincing. Is it something to do with the ACT system or is it simply the longer time it takes (they did say the job would take 6.5 hours) ?

I think it might be time to name and shame the VAG "specialist"

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think the coding might have got more obscure in more recent years but I don't know as I've only tried looking the dates up a very few times ever because the battery's history can be more important than it's age, it's like bank accounts some people can deplete down to nothing a lot quicker than others. Well done on 10 years, many seem to think 5 years or won't get passed 7 years and with some people and perhaps more recently made cars 5 years will be a good achievement.

is ACT the same as 2x cylinders being switched off and "eco" appearing when being light footed? If that is the case I have ACT otherwise how does one know for sure?

My Varta battery has a manufacturing code which from the internet tells me it's 10 yrs old this month.

I shouldn't laugh at this but did 😳 Seems that dealers have moved on from being a pain in the ar5e!

Keep the aftermarket Towbar but get original electronics.

My local garage is suggesting £943 for my 2019 1.5TSi another franchise about 2 hours drive away £852 Shop around and also try booking online at your chosen garage (especially that cheap quote) and then ask them to price match the cheapest if you select a more local outfit!

Was everything switched off so no demands on the battery? Have you had the car from new? A previous owner could have permanently disabled it.

Never used a scrapper in my life ever even in the coldest of Scottish Winter, and never will.. I use de-icer or used to use Pre-deicer. -20*oC deicer used currently for side windows to get them open when getting into the car and heater on at full and rear screen and heated mirrors on. Mirrors not folding is the most important thing. Those stupid camera things on the new EV's need to be able to be locked in position and those on the Hyundai Ioniq 6 will be hopeless.

I'm using Halfords -20C screen wash and it hasn't frozen yet. The standard -12C stuff doesn't work with VW spray washer nozzles, the spray freezes.

I bought the OBDeleven for around £90 I think it was, so I can recode a battery myself and also use it for many other functions. So its a good investment. You could opt for the VCDS, but i think it works out more expensive. Battery + OBDeleven is the price you pay a garage just to fit a new battery and probably do it wrong.

Have you had the water pump shroud inspected? if it’s stuck in the always open position then there won’t be any temperature regulation to keep the temperature up. not sure about the tdi but on the newer tsi they done away with the dsg thermostat instead replacing it with an electronic valve which is bolted too the engine just above the gearbox.

8N0804583 for the rubber pad, 8N0803855 for the insert. They need to work as pair.

I’m waiting for a 200hp Tdi L&K which was ordered in November ( nothing confirmed yet - but estimated delivery 30 weeks ) It will replace my E320 cdi Mercedes estate which I’ve owned for 10 years. I currently pull a 1600 k caravan and launch and recover a 5m rib from a beach. ( not at the same time ! ) so as much torque as possible is the order of the day. I understand Ranger’s comments about fuel consumption difference between petrol and diesel, particularly when towing , but is it really worth worrying about ? At list prices, we pay forty plus grand for the car, stick another twenty plus of caravan on the back and then worry about consumption. If you towed for 2000 miles ( at a rough figure of £7.50 per gallon ) the difference between 25mpg and 20 mpg would be £150 - when you’ve the wrong side of sixty thousand pounds in your outfit - what’s another few gallons of whichever fuel you prefer ? For me, it’s more important to choose a model and spec that is going to meet your requirements for the fifty two weeks of the year than worry about another few quid at the pumps when towing.

I think it’s also worth bearing in mind that the DCC is not just about selecting between comfort, normal and sport - ie 3 fixed levels of damping. The DCC system constantly modifies the damping level according to the suspension movement etc as detected by the 3 suspension position sensors, and possibly g sensors, speed, power, cornering etc. If you look at the current going into the dampers on VCDS while (someone else is) driving, you can see that the current (which controls the damping) is constantly changing (unless the road is completely smooth). So there is computer controlled instantaneously varying damping. Which may or may not be better than fixed hydro mechanical damping, who knows?! But it should be!

Seriously? 😳 Illegitimi non carborundum! Gaz

So I purchased the OEM wiring loom and installed on my superb 3v5 2.0TDI 4x4, got a local diagnostics guy to program with Skoda activation code and all is working as it should .

if its because of another thread youve been on with me yesterday/today, dont be letting a particular 'member' unable to see outside his own little box for lack of windows get under your skin to that extent 😞

Bilstein uk will rebuild them. Did you buy them? If so you get a life long warranty if I remember right.

Hi, Since I found that gasoline smell I took two 1-hour trips to let oil heat up properly. Gasoline smell is gone. Oil level on the dipstick is stable. I check it both cold before I start the engine, and then after I return home and let it cool off for 3 minutes. Oil level is consistent now, it's not increasing nor decreasing, both on cold and hot engine. I took my car to Skoda authorized service center for one more checkup before making any decisions. They looked and they found there are no leaks after they cleaned oil pan and surroundings the first time I was there, 110km earlier. We looked everywhere, not a drop of oil, its completely dry now. One theory that they gave is that someone just before handing me car tried to top up oil but overdid it and when I started it for the first time, that excess went through oil separator, making the whole mess. As for the smell of oil, they said that not one of hundreds of cars with this engine got any problems of this kind, and if this engine had real problem diluting oil with gasoline, it would mean that engine is totaled, and it's impossible for this engine to be so damaged and not give even single sign that it's internally malfunctioning. Their theory again was that car was not making any long trips since its last oil change and car seller moved car around his place for pictures, car wash, cleaning interior and similar stuff, making a lot of engine starts and immediate stops. These conditions could lead excess gasoline finding its way through piston rings and when I drove it for the first and second time it started to evaporate, making dipstick, cap stink like hell. I was reassured that even that it might be scary as hell, and I was right to contact them, but there is nothing wrong, just put fresh oil in it and start using it. I'll be posting updates as, at this moment, this thread is one and only place in the whole internet where there's 1.0 MPI and oil dilution even slightly mentioned. I hope that these will be just reports how many problem-free trips I'm doing, but if anything bad happens, I'll also leave it as warning. At this point car has 62130km on odometer and works perfectly. Wish me luck, BR Gregory

That's not hardwired it's using the factory fitted usb c in the mirror surround. I have mine there too but it switches off with the ignition.

It’s the 150. All 190’s use adblue

It might be 30 seconds to hold it down, but hopefully that should do a soft reset of sorts. Best of luck, they are not the best the MIB3 units. 🤐

What's your engine code on the V5, that will tell me what you have. p.s. Welcome to the forum p.p.s 190PS or PferdStarke is the metric measure of horsepower. It is the equivalent of 98.6% of one HP.

I have the Canton sound system in my Octavia MKIV VRS iV and to be honest am not impressed with it. The subwoofer in the boot is a joke and you can't hear it. The sound in my old MK 3 was far superior in my opinion. John

As mine's a L&K, I have DCC, but I prefer to run mine on normal except if I'm on the motorway or a long section of dual carriageway, such as the A40 from Abergavenny to Ross-on-Wye, when I'll run it in comfort mode. Being in my 70s, I'm not usually in a rush to get anywhere and these settings suit me fine. I've tried sport once or twice, but it's too firm for me and SWMBO's rotund and sensitive backside!

Just been through months of pain diagnosing the Stop/Start system on mine, only to find it was as simple as an incorrectly coded battery causing the fault. For yours, battery type should be Fleece, 70ah and serial number can be anything except what's currently there.

Now for the fun part ….. getting the seal back on the piston and back in the calliper

Vrs Iv,love the colour.

Battery or charging problem, possibly fractured alternator lead were the thoughts I had. I think its safe to assume that the garage do not have a clue and are relying on what the auto-elec is telling them, there is no fault code that says "new steering rack needed" my bet is that the code says cannot communicate with module or supply voltage low and all they can think of is changing the rack. I expect when or if you get the fault code you will be able to decide what to do, it doesn't sound like the garage does.

Thank you for your swift reply, however, I do not have access to a proprietary laser wheel alignment tool or indeed an inspection lift/ Pit.

new versions attached, amended to reflect some corrections to driving mode numbers as kindly provided by @langers2k, and to include comfort mode which I missed 30colours_v4_with_driving_profiles.txt 30colours_just_driving_profiles_v2.txt

I’ve put together a review of my Superb Estate over on YouTube. i don’t think that anything I say will be groundbreaking for people who come here, but you might enjoy it (or not 🙄). link is here should you want to take a look