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Hello! Give your local Trading Standards office a call and see where you stand if you bought the car on the basis it had a full service history and it turns out there is no evidence of the car being serviced. After that, it might be worth phoning up Enterprise saying you're looking at buying one of their cars but are concerned about whether the cars are serviced correctly. If Enterprise say "We have our cars serviced by the appropriate local dealer", then you at least know what should have happened, and if what Skoda told you is correct, it hasn't. If Enterprise tells you have their own garages who do their servicing and repairs, then ask how you as a potential customer can see the service history. Tell them you'll need evidence of the service history when you come to sell the car. See what they say. Basically, you're looking to arm yourself with evidence that the car hasn't been serviced and you've been lied to, in which the conversation with Trading Standards will have primed you for the next step, or evidence that the car HAS been serviced and Enterprise can provide you with a service history. At the moment, because you're not sure how Enterprise operate, you don't know exactly who should have serviced the car, so it's hard to pinpoint who to chase up about whether it has or not. Good luck!

Hi All We at work recently got a Prusa 3D printer with a 200x200 bed. We were all told to learn how to operate said machine and it would be bad manners not to make up a homer or 2 just for the practice you all understand !! So we made a part for our coffee machine to keep the splashes down - phone holders - microscope lens holders and a cup holder for an Audi TT We made these foglight covers up just for the craic - They serve no real purpose as Fabia foglights are really strong any way and you could probably use them on a track day or if you had to block them for whatever reason The foglight glass is domed so doing it again we would probably dome the covers to match so for the minute they have a flat outside face ! We will have to try and get our heads round that one - We wont go commercial yet and I cant see us being on Dragons Den 🤣 What do yous think ?

That would be an overly forgiving interpretation. I would say that Varoom is bang on the money, hats off to him for sniffing out the rat!

For the wires that only have cracked insulation, I would do nothing more than a quick wrap round with a couple of laps of insulation tape. No point at all in cutting/remaking the copper which probably isn't damaged. For the ones that are really busted, I'd get the door off and on a bench for easy access, then strip back about 5mm of insulation from each broken end, find other bits of wire of similar cross-sectional area about 30mm long, strip back 5mm from each end of that, then tin all the ends and solder that extra bit to bridge and extend each of the broken originals, with a little (10mm long) heatshrink sleeving over each 5mm long solder joint. All the fuss about solder joints not being ideal is a bit over-fussy IMHO.

Hi Nigel, It's why I bought them. set of two, 4 in all, daughter's wheels are small, not so much of an issue but the thought of any of the kids struggling to swap a tyre. Yeti's on the other hand larger and heavy and I struggled the other day, I bought two but others say one is adequate, I will have to find out for myself. I don't know how long the ones I have bought are, again some are saying a little long, make things awkward but I can shorten if so required. Got them for a good price on Ali, let's hope they are up to the job and not Chinese soft metal, we shall see, also hope I don't have to use them often but if anyone is prone to punctures, it's me, just is. Through out my driving life, every screw/nail on the road my tyres scream, " come and get me "!

I have just done that and now the sidelights are working😁. According to my handbook fuse 36 is for the number plate light which I never checked before I pulled the fuse. The fuse was good so I just put it back in and now all the lights are working. I presume that I have a loose connection somewhere in the fuse box. Thank you for your help.

She has been a champ until now, but started worrying me lately with some oil leak that I will post in the proper channel. Otherwise great car, not planning to give up on it anytime soon even though some second hand Octavias and Superbs keep tempting me all the time but the budget is unforgiving haha.

Sometimes a Black Merc, today the Silver SUV. Locked in for hours, no longer charging and the guy in an Ioniq 5 needs to sit on the AC getting 11 kW only as that is all that is available unless going trying the other charging hubs. Which happen to have the same sort of muppets locked in. That is what happens with no Max Charging times.

In the U.K. it is 5 years with no mileage officially. rest of world is normally 210,000km with no time limit. (not including dust climate) so who knows where they got 90k miles from!

https://mediaportal....CFD91588B4A0B85 In case yours is missing or you want a quick reference.

Seen first on clubgti.com, seemed too handy not to propagate further: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/38656239/audi-vw-renoks/5 Could be handy if you break one, and want to replace, but can't see a part number on it.

thanks all for your responses. Lots to think about there. I cannot see the Mit Silikat printe anywhere and the header tank for the cooling system was only replaced with the cam belt 2 years ago. I will keep delving. Am sure I can dig into this a bit myself and am happy to do the simpler jobs myself. I don't have the kit or the experience for the more complex stuff.

That makes sense, no ambiguity unlike what you had written which I appreciate was not intentional hence why I asked the question. As Varoom has pointed out they are on the make!

Looks like they've got a box of old stickers they're trying to get rid of without checking the contents thereof.

Thanks so much. I'm newbie with VCDS

My point ref the dump valve was it's another boy racer add on, not that it would cause the issue the op was having. As far as R8 coil packs, not sure I would ever bother, but each to their own.

@J.R. Here is the sticker : To me, next replacement shall be done in 90000 km (at 152000km for me), not AT 90000 (after only 28000km in my case. Otherwise, there would be no interest in writing the replacement milage / date on the sticker. But maybe I´m wrong…

Its cutted out of bumper so no This is how it looks without cover and not cutted

That can be updated to 0490, I will send you a link now by PM

Mine has just been back to Skoda. Got it back last Wednesday and so far no pop pop. 🤞 They've sorted it.

New badge for the trunk is back again together with ones on the fenders

Agree totally! Retro chic.

@RQ92Welcome. Have you spoken to the Manager or Dealer Principal where you bought the car or just Sales Staff? Can you name who it was bought from. Mis-selling / advertising is a serious matter, for them.

See edit to that post too.

Thanks Steve, Toot and others for your advice on the failed DSG in my 2018 Kodiaq 4x4 TSI (~34,000 km). It was indeed the Mechantronic component, and after nearly 2 months in the dealer workshop, awaiting parts and mechanic availability, I finally got my car back, functioning as when I bought it. Fortunately I had a 7 year warranty (expiring in 2024), so no cost. However, "Skoda Assist" (Australia) were pathetic in terms of not approving a courtesy car for the first 2 weeks, but thanks to the Skoda Keema dealer/ service centre at Mt Gravatt Brisbane, I eventually got a loan car. So, does anyone have any knowledge of the Mechantronic DSG component failing again, if (for example) I decide to keep this car for another 7 years after warranty expires - or sell it and fork out for a new model 7 seater Kodiaq? I love this car, and especially touring throughout eastern Oz, but am now wary of the DSG problem occurring in our "outback" ( we don't go off-road much). Thanks again for your comments you wonderful Briskoda community

Looks to be the same as mk1, dead easy. Just needs an assistant to help with weight of door as it comes off and goes back on, particularly the latter so one person can focus on getting the hinges to drop back on their dowels. https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/body/body_work/front_door_central_locking/front_door/removing_and_installing_the_door/

What did the sticker actually say in French BAP33? I can read what you have written in several ways, the best being that the belt will need to be changed when the vehicle has done an additional 90000km = at 152000 kms, the worst being change again at 90000kms = after driving only 28000kms on this new belt we have fitted. Was the 90000kms printed on the sticker with a space for the current kilometrage to be written?

It sounds like the remap sorted out a poor map with excess fuel delivery giving that lump of torque. One of my tuning boxes has a very on/off power delivery around 70mph and it was a right pain. Yeah it can, if it delivers less fuel for a given throttle demand under the same conditions. The fact that the power improvements are given in pretty specific figures, but the MPG increases claimed are usually very vague tells me the claimed fuel economy improvements cannot be relied upon. If anyone has some before/after MPG test data under controlled conditions, I'd love to see it.

Good luck with that leak then, squeeze some more life out of the car.

It's probably worthwhile to research how easy it is to remove the entire door, for vastly improved access. On a mk1 It's really surprising how quick and easy it is to do this.

I would have thought that all the glass would drop to the bottom when its closed, so i vacuum cleaner in the boot with the hatch 1/2 opened should do it with the trim off. I have a pipe with a shovel type of end that gets down the side off my VRS seats and will get into most places. Perhaps a small well trained child?

There are 2 oils in your DSG and neither has a service interval. No schedule, guidelines it recommendations to change the oil so leave alone. Ask them to tell you what is on their system as far as done. Including any warranty work done. Brake fluid is at 3 years then each 2 years. Or the mechanic can check the fluid for H2O content. The coolant strength can be checked. No point throwing money at changing stuff not requiring changing. Wasteful and not Green. Service as require by use and as preventative maintenance. Keep Money for oil and filter changes, brake servicing,. Including fluid when needed, tyres, wipers etc. Maybe the cambelt replacement is the expense you need to prepare for if following Skoda / VW guidance. Your DSG is a DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch.

I know that the ability to 'vent the tank' with a specific fitted lever/button was a feature on certain past VW group vehicles (Fabia?) but I'm not aware that any recent Skoda has any such facility, certainly not on the mk2 diesel or the mk3 petrol Octavia I've owned, or any reference to it in any post in the Superb section, other than your good self that is. Based on the rare occasion where a driver has near emptied their tank and posted the refill amount and I think it is fair to say that most VW group vehicle's fuel tanks have a about 5 litres more capacity than the published figure (although it could be even more). Personally I'd be disinclined to risk running the tank empty with modern high pressure fuel injection systems pumping air or running the in-tank fuel pump without it being cooled by the fuel it normally bathes in, or having to do that embarrassing jerrycan walk to the nearest petrol station.

There's nothing worse than sticky grease 🤣

Small point. The Tesco Momentum 99 might always be the same as in a minimum 99 octane on some areas. Well i just know what can be delivered in Scotland which can be as much as 102 octane. That will be when it came in from Continental Europe as is for Winter formulation, 100* or 102, this can happen with Shell v-power as well as Greenergy and Shell do import fuels to depots as partners, and this is to the ports if not fuel from Refineries like Grangemouth and their distribution. There are parts of the UK that Greenergy do not supply the ESSO fuels in, so it is not the same nation wide.

I'll 2nd that. My Varta AGM is 10 yrs old.

The Canton setup in the Superb contains:- The Canton setup differs in other Skoda models.

Dump valve makes no difference it’s essentially the same as the recirc valve that came oem , just a with a bigger piston and uses a standalone solonoid so it’s louder , as for the r8 coil packs that is probably the best modification by far even on an OEM tune , you are right about the fuel though esso super unleaded and shell v power are the worse high octane fuel to run , Tesco momentum 99 octane is the best to run because it’s the most consistent basically you know your always getting the same level of quality everytime (sometimes shell v power can be absolute pants but other times it can be the creme de la crème) the plugs you are running yes they are good and I have run them myself but again they are inconsistent and don’t like a drop off in fuel this with standard gaps on this plug with make problems worse. well worth a watch on fuel quality

You have to allow slack but I would just splice in three pieces of wire rather than buying a kit. It doesn't matter the colour as long as it is of a similar thickness.

Yes that’s my post no it’s not part of the bumper, although you do need to take the bumper off.

Lift the squabs up before folding the rears down to make a level loading platform? That way the seat squab sensors cannot register any weight. I have never deployed the rear seats any other way, my chauffeur pal that I bought my MK1 Octavia had driven it for 188000 miles and said his only complaint was the rear seats did not fold down flat, 5 seconds of me pushing and pulling showed him the error of his ways, he was not a happy bunny!

That you are getting heat in the car suggests to me that the heater matrix is not blocked (or at least not completely blocked). Heat one side, but stone cold the other is indicative there may be something else going on. Your mechanic needs needs to know, not think, if the silikat bag has split. If he doesn't 'know', this might be an issue. It's relatively easy to tell, and reasonable to expect a mechanic to be able to tell rather than guess. As TC has alluded to, if there's a silicate bag in your coolant header tank, the tank will be marked 'Mit Silikat'. If you take the lid off your header tank and poke a finger in, you should be able to feel the bag, and also tell if it's intact. If I can do it, anyone can. Here's one of the more informative threads on it: An intact bag is very easy to manoeuvre and wriggle out of the tank. There are other versions where the silicate can be inside a double skinned tank - you obviously won't find a silicate bag in one of these. IIRC there have been incidences where what has blocked the matrix is casting sand from when the engine block was made. Not suggesting this is the case here at all, just that it's not always the silicate bag. I had a coolant check valve fault (perhaps similar to the solenoid valves TC is referring to), which stopped all heat to the cabin, and ultimately caused my turbo to grenade itself (no cooling to that either), with a rather costly bill to fix it all. Agreeing with TC and Superb, I'd think this warrants further investigation before replacing a matrix which is clearly bringing some heat into the cabin. Has the car been scanned for fault codes, particularly around warm air delivery? Gaz

I posted in a thread from a members who's father had a DSG issue and who was getting communications from a Customer Relations Adviser or senior management like a Resolution Manager. They really have some interesting employees dealing with serious matters that i would not have giving advice on fitting shoes to a child. People do not like if i post from Linkedin.. But is is them that put themselves out there so why not. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/502758-dsg-advice-request What a bunch. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/508567-suggestions-on-where-to-purchase-a-spare-car-key

Congratulations thommo41 I took delivery of my identical vRS petrol estate 2 weeks ago. It's absolutely fabulous and definitely worth the wait of nearly 10 months. Ordered in March 22 with Pan roof and a couple of extras. Just fitted genuine Skoda mudflaps to help lessen the stone chips and given it a couple of coats of Meguiars wax to protect it as best as I can.

First post here. After 15 months of waiting, it has finally arrived, VRS IV mamba green.

Pointless but cool - I like them. They need some 80's Cibie or Hella logos printed on!

That overstay issues has been happening at some charger locations. It is all a bit of a balls up... Even with a EV that only costs me £63 a week (that is going to £71) and with all the miles i have done at no cost i have now decided that it will be a PHEV that i am ordering in March as the EV will go back. I will get cheap local miles on electric and pay fuel on longer trip. Just now if i pay 35 pence a kWh for 40 kWh that is £14.00. 3 x 40 kWh is 120 Miles. so a bit less than the cost of a 60 mpg ICE. Electric and fuel prices will rise, but the electric charging network of public charging is going to be much higher. Even an efficient 4 mile per kWh is not worth it for me. Glad i tried it while it was still fun and much Cheapness. PS. I will research the most efficient ICE vehicles that might suit me comfort wise. The 2.0 TDI SCR DSG 115ps Golf i had on loan was comfortable and amazingly cheap on fuel, but the lack of buttons and the terrible touch screen was terrible. ........ Must try one of these Renault kidologys. Full Hybrid without a plug. Self Charge. ???? Years ago i rolled my new 1996 3 door Corsa 1.4 Auto when the gearbox oil was spraying all under the car, and the AA took me 80 miles to Edinburgh to get an auto courtesy car and i loved that Clio 1.6 Auto. Pity after i got home i was ill with concussion for days. Lucky it never happened while i was driving.

Probably because they didn't actually fix the issue.

Excellent video's done by a forum member.

VAG and all others have got it wrong. They’re playing games. Arsoles! I don’t give a **** about 0.25 mpg, freewheeling is total nonsense.