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Love some of the waymarkers you find on footpaths.

Mine today was a bit different, I saw a base model one of these. First I've seen in christ knows how long... I like these, also the COO plate is a funny one. Moo. But seriously, I most definitely wouldn't mind an Escort, even if they bloody rust as much.

The hours that went into this were considerable and even more so when it looked like this

I mean, no pads dont always need to be replaced with discs. But, there are a huge amount of factors that determine if 1. the discs need replacing now, 2. will the discs last for the next set of pads or near enough. Many factors come into it including thickness, lips, grooves, heat marks, corrosion, contamination, damage. All of these need to come into account. The first picture its hard to tell but looks like the surface is grooved in lots of places, the second looks like it has a bit of wear on the thickness but cant tell without measuring. You need to ask whoever is doing the work to prove the discs are required by measuring and comparing to the specification and also a qualified visual inspection.

I think the new route of protecting cars are now products such as Lanoguard which is quite thin and just sprays on, and into cavities. Plenty of videos showing it being applied.

Sunday sermon for the congregation 😆 Starting with my folder structure, I keep things in nice simple way... SSP + ErWin\Skoda\Superb III (2016) [3V,3V3,3V5] - so it makes it quick to drill down into the correct section Then using one of @toot's often posted pictures of the gearbox codes (DQ381 = 0GC) allows us to find the document quickly D4B8079336C-7-speed_dual-clutch_gearbox_0GC.pdf I looked at the index page(s) to find the relevant section, in this instance page 4 Thankfully, you can click as you know on this to be hyperlinked to Page 454 If you then scroll down the pages, you end up on Page 456, which then links you to the Tightening torques and summary page You can then click on the red hyperlink to take you to Page 443 As Page 443 is not big enough to hold the picture, they put it on Page 444 You could of course use search in PDF for "Oil Filter" and then maybe look at 50+ pages, but sometimes the index comes up trumps. It's easily missed when you are under the cosh of time and pressure at work.

Scandinavian flick triptych from Knockhill.

Finally got around to installing a Whiteline adjustable Rear Sway Bar a few days ago. The standard sway bar on the AWD is 22mm, this is 24mm solid steel and I had it set to the hardest of the two settings (so equivalent to 25mm). I kept the factory end links (I'm not going to track this vehicle!). Definitely worth doing, and transforms the cornering response - it now has a much sharper turn-in, very flat, smooth and precise and a great addition to the Eibach springs. Happily, it's removed much of the inherent understeer and greatly reduced the sense of bulk and weight of the Superb when it's cornering. Ride comfort is unaffected.

Blooming freezing this evening 🥶

Saw my first '23 plate Skoda today on the M40: I like it, and the colour choice 😎 Gaz

Im gonna be honest, at this point im tapping out and not offering any further assistance except stop messing with things and bodging them and take it to a reputable qualified person. Fitting incorrect parts, bypassing wires, secondhand ECUs, shorting other wires, sticking random resistors in, mixing wire colours up - this is all a list of things you should not do when it comes to airbag systems. You seem to have a small amount of knowledge and I respect trying to repair your own car, but when it comes to airbag systems you need all the knowledge - you cant just try things and see what happens, you risk damaging components or triggering airbags.

Ok then I will reiterate. The “all new” Fabia doesn’t look much different to the previous model. The principle and the point I am making is still the same🙄😂😂

Well, I thank everyone for all the replies, unfortunately I've been too tied up to check. However, I've just been out and voila - holding the button down works, but what surprised me was the lights flashing at the same AND the lock actuating silently! So thanks again, saved me a trip and as advised above I will be going through all the options on the setting.

Must be a very weak flushing oil if you need to drive 200 miles at operating temperature, more likely to be just a cheap disposable engine oil. Back in the day when products did what they said on the tin and to hell with the virtue signallers you would run the enine up to temperature and for a maximum of another 15 minutes before draining, the hot fluid would come out so thin that it would shoot vertically across the top of my drainer tray burning me in the process. It was mostly paraffin with some engine oil, since then if I flush I do it with 50/50 el cheapo oil and paraffin, with this or proper old school engine flushes you should never drive the vehicle or put the engine under load. What flushing oil advocates that you drive for 200 miles and what ACEA/VAG specs does it claim to meet?

Sounds like you’re turning the autohold off and not the stop start. To be fair they do look similar.

Stunning 👍

Generally it seems the earlier you go in regards to Fabias, often the better the rust proofing is. As towards the end of production the bean counters got in and started reducing factory rustproofing etc. I've seen more Polos with hammerite and holes than Fabias, but it's not impossible. Although that's true for any car as there's a bloody myriad of factors that contribute to how and why a car rusts, where it rusts etc. That being said, I've got a 2006 Mk1 with 74k miles that's now doing 12k a year in all conditions... in Scotland. Got some surface rust on the sill ends at the rear, and a bit in the rear arch tubs, I'm going to sort that out in the summer so that it at least delays the inevitable with any luck. @DoctorBoostaLot has a thread going now documenting the welding he's doing to his Mk1 Fabia, if you can do work like that, or find someone reputable to do welding work (thin on the ground getting, but still possible) then you'd be doing pretty well, I reckon. So aye, a good Mk1 still has life in it, and just tidy up any rust that appears as and when it happens. If you've got a clean base for a car, then that's fine. It's easier to replace an engine than most metalwork, keep that in mind.

It’s gonna be near impossible for me to comment as I haven’t actually seen the car but I’ll still say what I can; yes the 3 cylinder engines are very very rough running engines and that’s ’normal’ but you say it’s worse now they’ve done a belt change. personally I would be asking them to time the engine again and just make sure the pins go in as required, it’s not a massive job to time this engine as technically if you know what you are doing you don’t even need to touch the belt or timing cover. as the pulleys are not keyed and are freewheeling it is extremely easy to time the engine a few degrees up either way by mistake. yes the pulleys are oval shaped and are marked to only go in 1 position using a camshaft pulley to camshaft pulley locking tool, but even if they were 90/180 degrees out I couldn’t see them causing a vibration. Final words; if the vibration is more apparent now then I would put money on the timing being ever so slightly out of position.

Underseal simply locks any existing rust and moisture in place, it should only be used on rust free areas which lack protection, i.e. freshly welded areas of clean metal.

No probs. I think I've found the loom and its part number - but the only place at a reasonable price for a new one (€25+tax) was in - Czech ......... or Czechia ..... or Czech Republic ............ or whatever it's know as this week. It's the scrappers ...........

Stop/Start - kill it every time you start up. Not sure how cruise control could upset a start. I find I only have to tickle the throttle pedal to let the car creep forward from a standstill. Or sometimes floor the Go pedal in Sport mode for a brisker take off. I’m about to climb into my 3rd Kodiaq and have never had any snags with the stopping and starting - once you master the drive modes and use them all as appropriate. But Stop / Start is not your friend. Spawn of the devil.

@Ollies2 Looks like this is as per owners manual. Estate and hatchback have different position for storage of the warning triangle. Left estate, right hatchback.

On my estate it is high up on the left side, just below the track for the retractable cover (and near the led light). As per photo from @TheUltraRunner

He sent me this image in a PM when I asked same Lee:

I calculate that as 295ml per thousand km, that's using 880g per litre as a reasonable datum.

Hello It would seem from the various posts that there may be different variations to the position of the storage for the hazard triangle. My Skoda Octavia hatchback was delivered last August after being ordered the previous October (2021). The space for one triangle is just under the hook for the hatchback door in the middle of the cill. I store the other triangle for trips to Europe in the compartment to the left or right of the boot. Bw. Richard

Since checking and setting the pressures have you set the TPMS, and then repeated setting the TPMS and still getting the same thing? Is the tyres at the side getting the warning sitting facing the sun rising in the mornings?

erWin

Hi, the usual stealer BS I'm afraid. Provided the discs are not excessively lipped or have too much run-out, they are ok to reuse.

No problem, PM me a delivery address and I'll get one on its way to you tomorrow. 🙂

Skoda have probably lost 6+ months of production due to lockdowns, suspended shifts due to parts shortages etc. So makes sense that Kamiq facelift is delayed. Have heard Octavia facelift also delayed. The Karoq is older (introduced 2017) so plans for a facelift would have been almost 2 years earlier than the 2019 Kamiq

Nope, as bluetooth is protected with FEC/SWaP code and unfortunately I don't know amyoe who can patch MIB1 Bolero. The solution is to replace with MIB2 as they can be patched. If you are interested pls contact me on PM.

I think you're probably right, I just like taking any opportunity to have a go at corporate! 🤣😂🤣

Congratulations on the new car.

There is a separate cooling system for the oil.

You have PM for 0480 version

Unfortunately no part number awarded. Part number must end with B, then DLA should be installed. So are the eyelashes. Just turn on the low beam, the eyelashes light up as standard.

Rust has made a big comeback on VAG products, they were so much better from the 82 Golf 1 right through to the Golf 4 and then it all went wrong… my 200k Octavia 1U has had zero structural or cosmetic rust except where morons had used trolley jacks on the sills before I bought it and to be honest, Skoda are better than the rest of the VAG range especially Audi on the 8E and 8K A4 which suffer horrible floorpan and chassis leg rust. Even the aluminium A8 is not immune, last year we had an 8 year old A8 in and I just put my fingers through the subframe where the diff mounts, a huge job to fit a new subframe

Oh no.........look what I've started!!!!! So, for the avoidance of doubt.......mechanical sympathy prevents me from putting my car into 1st while moving.

Ours order for Leicester skoda in 09 2021 (1.4 phev Estate sel). Order à knowledge by the factory 30/11/22 more than 1 y after the initial order and still no new on build or vin whatsoever. I keep the order but can't wait much longer. This is disgusting and no matter how good the car might be I'll probably never order from skoda. The dealership is already a joke but skoda as a whole is beyond ridiculous. This is really bad customer care and experience damaging the brand no matter what are the circumstances. Other brand do better I think. A shame

Stage 1 remap today at Avon Tuning. 272 to c. 350bhp. Picked it up 2 hours ago. Have only really had once chance to accelerate hard - yep, it’s certainly quicker!! More noticeable perhaps is the increased torque making picking up speed at lower speeds effortless and really smooth. More drivability is what I was after so, so far so good! I’ll add further thoughts when I have done more driving!

You should not have been putting a resistor in its place. It sounds like either the sensor has failed or the earth return cable is broken/disconnected. No on reflection it has to be the former, putting in the resistor made the short to ground. As always the VCDS descriptions are rubbish, short to positive means not enough volt drop sensed for the sensor to be working, although were an additional 12v feed shorted to the one for the sensor the result would be the same, short to earth means too much volt drop, in this case your resistor. I believe that the sensor has failed open circuit.

Another thing to check is the built in diagnostics for the climate control: Depending what that shows you can also access individual values for various sensors etc:

From my prospective, I have zero interest in what anyone's labour rate is - they could charge £1 an hour for all I care. I also don't care what price they say or advertise at. What I do care about is the answer to my question - "In total, how much, including VAT, will the job cost me?" Perhaps I'm getting too old but in my experience there's usually, but not always, some element of robbing Peter to pay Paul about the final pricing. My local VAG specialist doesn't charge that much different than the main dealer for things like servicing. They do if you have an Audi tho 🤣

Well, the 1.5TSI 6M Style at home is going back to the dealer tomorrow for it's first annual service. So, at a year old, the list of faults is zero, nada, zip. No rattles, squeeks, funny noises etc. The primary users are happy and have no complaints.

Has anyone had any experience with the air flow positioning flap at all? My windscreen vent no longer gets any air when the demister is selected- the air just comes out of the floor vents. It was working earlier and just randomly stopped. I've done the climatronic diagnostic and get an 025b error which is 025B Footwell/Defrost Flap Servo Motor. Has anyone had this issue and know where the servo motor is? I'm guessing it's buried right behind evrything!! Talk about the worst time of year for it to go.

@Vahids my understanding is that Android Auto and Apple Carplay each have their own SWaP code (see info on codes here), so yes it could be possible that Android Auto is enabled but Apple Carplay is not. You can check if you have the Carplay Swap code (00060800) enabled by turning on your infotainment system, press and hold the Menu button a few seconds, and then select 'Function Enabling codes', then 'Installed codes' and see if the carplay code is there. If it isn't there you could double check Carplay is supported by going into 'Supported Codes', which shows all codes that the system supports (regardless of whether they're actually enabled or not). If Carplay is supported but not enabled, you'd need to find a way to enable it (I haven't done this- try YouTube)

Only a year late either way; You have to stand near the tailgate within a few meters and hold the key fob to close it.

Despite the manual saying you can close it on the remote, I can't get it to respond.