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I definitely misunderstood the title of this...

Here's an update for everyone: Firstly thank you everyone for your help and insight, with that being said, I was able to replace and code the battery on my own. 😁 The only real thing that I think can hold anyone back from doing this is either a lack of an OBDII scanner with coding abilities, a wrench with an extension or two and determination. A local garage quoted me at £20 to fit a battery but when I asked if this included coding they said no. The other was a Varta specialist going for around £40 up to £80 just to fit one in. Halfords had their own brand EFB battery at £186.99 plus £27.99 fitting. 🤯 So with that being said let's go over it. I have a 2017 Skoda Superb MkIII fitted with an OEM Banner EFB 6R0 915 105 B 12V 69Ah 360A DIN battery. The main key points are the battery type, EFB, the capacity 69Ah and the dimensions, length: 275 mm, width: 175 mm and height: 190 mm. I realised my battery was dying/dead when I had the error message "Manoveure braking unavailable" pop up time over time and then one day it wouldn't crank without the help of a jump starter. It wouldn't even hold any charge even when charged with a trickle charger. 6 years, low miles over Covid (still low miles now) and plenty of cold winter starts probably killed the battery. I ordered the ever popular Varta AGM E39 12V 70Ah 760A 570 901 076 D86 2 battery for £145 including next day delivery. One reason I picked Varta is because it's also an OEM choice battery found in some other VAG vehicles. The key differences are that it is an AGM type battery, the capcity is 70Ah and that it is slightly longer at 278mm but the same width: 175mm and height: 190mm. The extra 3mm is nothing to be concerned about. It arrived next day from Tayna and was pretty much fully charged when I tested it with my trickle charger. From what I understand an AGM type battery should last three times as long as a regular battery, compared to an EFB type when compared to a regular battery which only lasts twice as long. The only issue is that AGM batteries don't like heat - hence why there is a thermal battery sleeve in the Superb. The other thing that needs doing is that changing from an EFB to an AGM type battery needs coding. I originally got the OBDeleven when it was on sale with a voucher, however at the time you could get free credits (not anymore) but in order to do any coding or adaptations you'll need a Pro subcription. So you're looking at just under £100 together in order to do it (the OBD2 device is £60 and the 1 year Pro plan is £50 separately). This together can really put someone off, nearly did for me, but it can save some money clearing codes, diagnosing faults on the car, service intervals, and in my case when I managed in a very roundabout way of getting Pro, save money. That and you need a 10mm and a 13mm sockets with a wrench and extension bar. As @BillyParkersays, it took longer to get the battery swapped over than coding it in. You first disconnect the negative terminal first by loosening the 10mm socket, then loosen the postive terminal and move them aside - it can take a lot of loosening and nudging to remove the terminals from the battery. I wasn't keen on the idea of using a screw driver to wedge loose the terminals so that's probably where I took the longest. At the front of the battery there is a bracket with a 13mm bolt that you can undo with the extension bar (in my case I used two) and the removed the bracket which can be finnicky. But once that is out, you'll need to pull the battery towards you so it leaves the battery tray mounts at the rear, then you can remove the thermal battery sleeve, and then carefully lift the whole battery out - it was pretty heavy especially when you're leaning forwards and you have to be cafeul that you don't want to drop it on the car panels. I used the plastic cover from the positive end of the new battery to cover the old one - there is also a plastic nub that I used to seal up the old battery to stop any leaking. Give it a clean at the bottom of the battery tray - there are several mounting holes you can use but I can't imagine anyone using a smaller battery. then lift and insert the new one into the bottom battery mounts and push until it's fully in. Here I put the thermal sleeve on but I imagine it might've been easier to put the sleeve on first then push it into position. When you're connecting the new battery, do it in reverse, connect the positive terminal and then the negative. I got a few sparks when trying to seat the negative terminal but once it's in there wasn't anything to be afraid of. Then you can add the battery bracket and hand tighten them all. That's the hard part done. The next part was coding, I turned the ignotion on and instantly nearly every warning light came on - low tyre pressure light, brake disc fault, hill hold disabled, start stop disabled, cruise control disabled, auto parking brake error, steering angle error, digital radio antenna fault, emergency SOS fault and so on. Kinda scary. I connected my OBDeleven to the car and went straight to code the new battery in, tapping onto Control Unit, Gateway 19, Adaptation, then Battery Adaptation, where you are presented with your old battery settings. Incidentally a lot of it wasn't accurate, I had a Banner battery which was labelled as JCB instead of BA2 and the Battery serial number was just 1111111111. The only correct things were the Rated battery capacity at 69 Ah and the Battery technology EFB. So this is where you need the Pro version of OBDeleven, which has a green checkmark on the bottom right which you hold to save your new values, otherwise you're faced with a red padlock and needing to splash out £50 or so. Thankfully I was about to get around this and save myself a bunch. So the new settings I added were 70Ah, changed the last digit on the Battery serial number to 1111111110 (10 digits, doesn't really matter what), changed the Battery manufacturer to Varta's code VA0 (or VAO, it apparently doesn't matter which one as long as it doesn't flag up an error) and the new Battery technology Fleece. Tap and hold the green button (at this point I should at looked for a test on the app but didn't) and then turned on the engine. I did a full lock left to right (which instantly cleared one or two faults) and then did a little drive. The engine turned over instantly and the steering and acceleration felt a lot more tighter. When I next stopped I turned the engine off, key out of the ignition, then open and shut door, key back in and only turn on the ignition - I cleared all the remaning faults and then it was all good. I even silenced the Superb's remote liftback beeps while I was at it. So thanks everyone, and if anyone is interested in doing it themselves I hope this helps, given this new experience. 😁

You have towing weights on the chassis plate, you can have a towbar retrofitted. Skoda have a long record for screwing things up and making them unnecessarily complicated. The vRS was one of the first models Skoda used to claim that a genuine towbar could not be retrofitted, but without giving a reason. Then they said all models built without towbar prep or an actual factory towbar would not have towing weights printed on the chassis plate. Don’t get bogged down with Skoda UK’s ineptness. There are plenty of aftermarket towbars available to fit the vRS. Choose a reputable brand and trusted fitter and be sure the car is coded correctly. As mentioned unless you’re dragging the full 1,750kg’s up a steep incline in blistering heat for mile after mile you won’t need the upgraded grill or fan.

After suspension work I'd expect the normal suspension position would need relearning (basic settings) and the headlights adjusted with appropriate equipment. It's also worth checking both level sensors are still correctly attached and undamaged

Wheel bearing?

"I do like to be beside the seaside.............."

For all the replies I am very grateful. Now, I fully understand the whole situation regarding the amount of fuel left, so thank you. By the way, I did fill up today and, to my delight, I found that the price of fuel has dropped to £1.38 in my area. In future - and following all your advice, I think I'll let the run down to the last line. Thanks to all Tico

When I was in the showroom a few weeks ago I asked if they were busy. They were selling more than ever and even they thought the prices were stupid but no shortage of punters. the only prices I've seen drop are on formerly very expensive cars, Land Rover, Range rover, V8 BMWs, big diesels etc. Everything else is selling no problem.

I had rust on my tailgate in 2016, when my car was under a year old. The claim was rejected by Skoda. I was about to seek legal advice, but the claim was then accepted, second time around. Don't give up too soon! Gaz

Happy to reassure you, Graham. Companion since 2012...

The trouble at times can be that while a company does have the factory supply contract for one of their product ranges, it does not follow that other or all their product ranges are also factory supplies. Fuchs do tend to win/hold the supply contract for engine oils to VW Group factories, but do they also have the contract for supplying DSG fluids? The last line in the image shown above reads "Engine Oils".

Old user posted on here years ago on a different format I think - however now have a new Skoda superb L&K Thanks

I fitted these to my Mk2 Greenline without removing the bumper, passing wiring through the rubber vent flap in the spare wheel well, just below the hatch lock, then running it into the moulded "pocket" in the nearside of the boot where the control unit and buzzer are located, and a power supply connected to the nearside reversing light that powers the sensors up when reverse is engaged. A wire coat hanger was used to feed the sensor wires from the flap to the drillings in the bumper. For positioning for the sensors I looked at photos on Autotrader of factory fit, or you could even measure off a car that has them fitted. The sound can be heard quite clear even with the parcel shelf in position. Unsure of the cost of the Skoda parts for retrofitting, or the advantages of having a sound out of the headunit. CISBO REVERSING PARKING SENSOR 4 SENSORS AUDIO BUZZER ALARM CISBO 336-4 U.K. | eBay I also fitted a set to my daughters 2010 Polo with the same good results. The only downside is there is no identification of which sensor is getting close to an obstruction but unsure what information OE ones will give - partners current 2017 Polo has visual representation on headunit showing individual sensor scan area.

If you go onto erWin Skoda, and register an individual account, you can for 7 Euros (about £7.50) download your build sheet (PR Codes - helpful for parts finding) your entire wiring diagram/repair information and look up the TPI (Technical Product Information) documents that can describe issues and offer solutions. Well worth it if you are planning to retrofit a factory fit kit (ideal way) If it's too daunting, then you have @ApertureS @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits that could probably do all you need, and do a bang up job.

I don't think that what you are calling "tick sign" is positioned there for warning purposes - it is simply there to let you know what that set of horizontal lines are showing... In this case the fuel level. That fuel-pump pictogram could have been placed very well in a different position, above or below the lines. When your fuel level reaches that pictogram position it doesn't mean you need to go to refuel ASAP. Youur picture shows that you still have fuel for about 3 lines out of 8, which roughly means about 1/3 of your fuel tank, which for a tank of 50 liters means that you still have about 16 liters left. You can easily let the petrol fall down to the last line marked with "R" - which is short for "reserve" if I'm not mistaking... At that point, that last line will turn from white to red as @SteveTheElder mentioned above. When you reach that point you still have about 100 km worth of fuel left in your car. Unless you live in the middle of nowhere, you would have enough range to arrive at a gas-station.

As above it is not a tick sign, it is an icon of a garage fuel pump and an arrow informing you what side the filler flap is on. When the fuel level gets low you should get a warning of how many predicted miles till you run out of fuel, and instructions to where nearest fuel station is.

The tick sign is actually an arrow which indicates on which side of the car you have the filling opening. When petrol falls to the last line, it changes to red and you get a warning for low fuel. At that point you still have a minimum of 5 liters of patrol in your tank. This is usually enough for 50 to 100 km depending on your consumption. If you are worried about the range that you can drive with he current amount of fuel in your tank, you can change your display info in one of your round dials. So instead of displaying the current clock (it looks like the clock in your last image), you can display "Range left" Like here in my picture.

Finally, the day has come, and the car has arrived at the dealer. Delivery due within 4-5 days. I can't really express what I feel now. The order was placed on 21st April 2021, so nearly 23 months ago. I've never waited such a long time for anything before. According to the documentation, the car was built on 24th October, and since it waited for semi-conductors. The missing parts added on 14th February (3,5 months later). Here are some fresh photos – taken minutes after the arrival (the mirror shows the smile on my face 😆)

Here are my racing Turtles.

I never knew this car existed but came across it this morning in an article regarding cars that were sales flops in the UK. It'll be no surprise that of all the poor selling vehicles available in the UK over the years, few exist on the road today. Apart from one. Of the 47 3.6 V6 4x4 L&K's sold back in 2011, they all still remain on the road today. Just thought that was an amazing stat. What's the chances of that ! You'd have thought at ;least some would have been written-off buy now. https://www.autocar.co.uk/slideshow/unicorns-small-sellers-now-vanishing-fast#61

See the actual workshop manual is my advice 😬. Balance shafts on other engines I have worked on have had timing marks, a special tool or simply been aligned level with each other depending on the manufacturer - in this case it was obvious even one tooth out that they weren’t level (these were big engines though).

Are you 100% sure of that? Have you compared the angle of the handbrake actuator arms on each caliper to the other? Have you looked at the compensator arm just behind the handbrake with the rear ashtray/armrest removed? If one cable is adjusted more than the other and/or the arm is not at 90° to the cables then someone has been trying to resolve this before you if you have not adjusted it. It could also quite simply be a sticking piston. I too spent far too long trying to resolve a sticking handbrake on one caliper, I rebuilt the calipers twice and had them apart multiple times, in the end I gave up (unlike me) and bought some super cheap calipers from China, no more overheating rear brake but guess what happened to the guy I sold the car to!!!! There are some springs from an earlier vehicle (Golf?) that can be fitted to ensure the caliper operating levers return fully

Continued from my above comment. The car is 2018 and the garage identified the issue as a fuel leak due to loose fuel rail bolts.

It only shows one item there...and it is Bosch😔

Thanks for remembering. I´ve bought a 4 bulb set with 6+6 red & white LEDs since this post. But not installed yet. I ´ll let you know how the result is.

@foofoo7777 without mods, just replace

i found one -> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32838811778.html not ordered yet, seems ~30% overpriced, even with their "31%" discount

another type of bulb -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/393511-what-bulbs-are-fitted-to-the-s3-upgraded-bulb-recommendations/?do=findComment&comment=5375416

Although I've got Skoda Connect my map date was a bit behind. Driving around with the maps on a USB did get it caught up so now the OTA update keeps it updated. But the USB files didn't load in one update on mine.

Finally hopefully fixed as of today, and thanks to all contributors, vacuum sensor as well as egr valve replaced plus factory original oil sensor - patterns not recommended.

Yes I bought 6 liters, thanks for the advice Maybe I buy right now another 6 liters..😉😉

I don't think it's going to fix it, with it only being one wheel, but start by popping the vacuum hose off the servo and see if it releases, just in case it is the none return valve. I don't think it's going to be, but always do what's easy first. Realistically, it sounds like you've had a bit of a mare with it and had to spend a lot of time bleeding it through, so I'd probably drop the rear calipers off and see if they'll wind back at all. I'd imagine one's pushed out a bit.

I mean, £500 with a oil service, pollen, air filter and gearbox service isn’t an unreadable price at all. in fact I’d go as far as to say it’s a very good price using all genuine parts.

Still shows same oil,so it's ok believe after using my car details

I didn't want to point that out 😆 Welcome to the forum BTW, let's hope you can get it off now. Quite a few people don't bother with locking wheel nuts these days, not really heard of people stealing many alloys, so might be an idea to think about putting standard wheel bolt in.

Well there's your answer; the Main Stealer clearly doesn't feel they need your business.

Try these people; https://wheellockingkeys.com/product/locking-wheel-nut-key-matching-service/ I'd use a black Sharpie to highlight either the high points or the low points (not both!) to get a better picture of your nut. You have four goes at this.....

Good! Nice motor out there! There was a Dynamic package which was including the black trim outside(front grill and side mirrors) and a rear lip spoiler for the liftback version, interior piano black elements, sports steering wheel and pedals, black interior roof, sports seats but without the sports suspensions. This one is withdrawn from the price list and unfortunately I was chasing exactly this modification prior of my order. The Dynamic package including the sports suspension is still present, but I did not want a stiff ride. The difference with the Sportline is that it does not include the front spoiler and the rear diffuser. Anyways I got everything from Dynamic and Sportline except the seats and the roof, so I am all good. By the way, you can easily add front Sportline spoiler from Skoda and rear diffuser from Milotec(if you don't like the chrome plated one from Skoda). It changes the looks quite nice. I will send you the links if you are interested.

Bar Stewards!

Thx man. It's been a long time coming... It's not a Sportline. It's a mild hybrid (aka. e-TEC) Style model with DSG and dynamic sport pack (which includes the black grill, side mirrors, sport steering wheel, sport seats and lowered suspension). The dealer said that this car is the first they delivered this year with mild hybrid system, and the battery pack was among the missing parts. As far as I know the dynamic sport pack as an independent option was withdrawn from the market at the end of 2021 due to shortages. Probably Skoda kept these components for the vRS models.

@Nile6661 possible, requires exchange of glove box unit, display unit, USB and, if you have CANTON sound system, also power amplifier. Pls share your VIN for details.

As varooom said, if it’s not there, no one has put it there. When they say it was serviced at 15k and such, maybe it was done elsewhere and they have paper copies as the person that done the work didn’t have erwin? Have you tried asking them for the proof?

OE implies it’s the exact same as the genuine oil, if so, is there any proof of that? Do you mean OEM as in it’s the same manufacturer as the genuine oil?

You and me both 😳 Things were made worse when it said Insert into post 🤣

Drove 120 miles each way today for our 58 plate Fabia 1.9TDI Sport. It's awesome! Over 50mpg on the way home and v comfy and torquey. I don't think there are a huge amount of these about? Feel like it may be a future classic ha! Only 60K on the clock too and a massive folder of history. Just need to sort out the speakers as they are pretty shocking compared to my Octy MK2!

It's often asserted on this and other forums that the letter(s) at the end of a (9 character) part number is 'just a revision level'. People claim and assume that an alphabetically later letter or pair of letters is the same part but new and improved, or from a different manufacturer, or whatever. They assume it'll fit and work But it simply isn't true, not all the time by any means. Example, brake discs with core part number 6R0 615 301 Without any letter at the end, that's a 256mm disc fitted to various Skoda models, as well as other VW-group cars. It's obsolete now, dropped on Feb 1st 2017, replaced by the part number 6R0 615 301C Not 6R0 615 301A which is a 288mm disc, nor 6R0 615 301B which is a 310mm disc. Neither of these is likely to fit or work... Another common error is to mistake the third character in a part number as a letter O when it is really a numeral zero. Hampers search engine research when this is mis-entered.

Why would thieves want to steal a Skoda scala. Stop worrying about wether it’s going to get pinched and enjoy the car

Really a 50% drop

If it is not there, then it is not there, no solution. I have seen plenty of cars without any electronic service records.

Mine just plugged in and worked with no other changes or anything else needed.