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Since I started this topic I'm going to post a solution to my problem. As far as this problem goes, glow plug light was turning on constantly after driving for a few miles. What did concern me is a check engine light which appeared out of nowhere (with "Emissions Workshop" on the dashboard) after this error happened. Using Delphi diagnostic tool (I know, that was the only thing I had on hand) I got like 5 (yes, five) errors which all were pointing in the direction of diesel particulate filter/anti shudder valve (V157) etc.. Finally I said enough is enough, I went to my local shop and the guy that was working there scanned my codes (using genuine VCDS scanner) and found 3 error codes (compared to 5 which were found with Delphi) pointing to anti shudder valve/diesel particulate filter. Today I finally got time to see what is exactly happening and sure enough anti shudder valve was the culprit. I bought another one and disassembled one that was in my car before and what I saw was my problem Cleared all codes, car runs fine and no more glow plug light/check engine light. Thank you all for the help!

A Briskoda member with another excellent vid.

The VRS and the 1.5 Style peeping out from behind the corner.....

More or less bog-standard 1.5 from August '21, I'm afraid, although I have added mud-flaps and a rear bumper protector since these shots were taken. Ex' demo purchase in November '22 at 3309 miles.

You can also use a fizzy drinks can. Cut enough can material to wrap it around the pipe twice, slide it into the pipe and then boom it will pop off.

Re EVM's video on the A1 reinforces the issue of insufficient operational chargers and he raises the charge rate, fair enough, would not bother me with the Zoe as I can only get 45 kWh at best but the % of out of order chargers is a big issues without us knowing exactly why is happening, is it:- Lack of staff to fix them of these ? Lack of parts ? Economic woes of these mainly smallish companies (perhaps with their banking with Silicon Valley Bank UK) One hears of chargers down for months. If it is not working and earning money for operators one must be suspicious of the business model maybe ? Instavolt generally look good, I want to see more Gridserve. Happening very slowly and bang up to date information can be hard to get.

I also think it looks neater with a full sized engine cover instead of the token one they fit now near the oil filler cap. I suspect it’s down to cost cutting as has been mentioned above, no cooled glovebox, no second boot light/torch and now the engine cover plus a few other minor differences that have occurred over the last few years.

I prefer the gloss black over carbon effect. I've got Rieger front lip and side skirts. The front lip is screwed on with 20 odd screws. The side skirts use automotive sikaflex adhesive and the same lower screw points as the mudflaps.

Interesting post, thanks for this. I’ve had absolutely f*ck all information from my lease company and from contacting the dealer direct. I’d cancel my order but as it’s a company car my hands are kind of tied (plus the list of alternatives is rubbish and prices have gone up). So I am now going to write a strongly worded E mail of disgust to Skoda UK and see where that gets me (obviously I know it’ll get me nowhere at all but it’ll make me feel slightly better….maybe😄)

That is a LOT more detailed than the Complete Record (no Report) paper printed (hard) copy my wife is given. As, until August last year, for the previous 30+ years I've been using "classic" (over-priced and over-valued old) cars as dallies I'm used to much more detailed servicing and maintenance bills and records from those doing the work and what I compile so the digital system was a very unwelcome surprise on my wife's car. (BTW apparently other marques than VW did give a physical service book). I ask my wife to get a refreshed Complete Record every time the car has work done but often it's only the Individual record I get a paper print out of. Attached images as examples. -

According to the Electroverse app, they are Project-EV chargers and free to use. I find Electroverse more up to date than Zap-map.

If your is anything like our it was ripped off by the weight of snow sliding down the back window. I've found d one on ebay with a blade for £13 rather than the £50 the dealer wanted. Any good? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Superb-Mk3-Estate-7-2015-9-2016-Rear-Wiper-Arm-Blade-41-cm-16-Inch/374191258146?fits=Car Make:Skoda|Cars Year:2015|Model:Superb&hash=item571f897a22:g:tyUAAOSwCRFi4R02&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA0C1BGF9rkKTf2bst7N1KKhEdCAKbdQwwRRA5+ymgRGbnmVCQ9xcD9k8mB6mR1qp5hBFB++REUjVmJfqZ1gk6MYKsWP+jgi/SOQhBRwqNJq4Um3/N5fhBWO8PZA80gn59klT01r5VmQHCD+D1Djw10cDcW5iBeG5N3ef5OUJ5l41UP1tr5w5/OQVnl4Y3ozCOC0XyXMj7aFYquvCWiV7+bW8mpa0SqfKfF9c3T49QW3sHba5xaaSRc7dsSOIEyA8aiPfvII15sYrHX/K76qznmr0=|tkp:Bk9SR-SN4e3aYQ&pageci=89f9cd46-f253-4d86-95ad-6e5145035614&redirect=mobile

Don't know if this is what you are after or if it's the best price but it does have the part number, alternatively a breakers would be cheaper if you have one close by. https://www.caffynscarparts.com/superb-iii-estate-rear-wiper-arm-6243-p.asp

Hi all, New owner of no.72 Stef ( Essex ) Ta

Inside the larger pipe is a coiled spring wrapped into a circle (you can imagine it as an 'O' ring) When you push the pipes together the ring is forced to expand over the flange on the pipe and locks it in place. I've separated them using an old fluorescent tube starter. Cut the end off, split down the side and push into the connector while pulling the pipes apart. I think the last one I did I used the body of an old felt tip pen. Once you've done one all will become clear.

Had rear brake squeal on my 68 karoq and recently had the rear pads replaced cost £200. But its only money and I cant take it with me and reversing is quiet now.

So worked out to be the 5 amp fuse in the engine compartment think it's no 9 air conditioner after changing the two fuses in the cabin. Thanks for your help. Luckily a cheap fix on an old but solid car.

3 weeks of accumulated salt, grit & other crap from our wonderful roads...BH Touchless, Auto Wash, and the bonnet got Auto-QD before the rain started 🤦‍♂️

Hello Patryk, welcome to the forum. Don't panic - these faults may not be due to the water ingress - it would probably require much more water than shown in cabin to cause a problem with electronics. Have you checked your battery condition and charge? The fact that engine starts normally is a good sign. Low, or failing battery will often cause multiple error codes in the systems you mention. I'm just going to do an online search for your error code.

On the right hand side of the screen press 'Menu', then from the pictures select 'Settings', then scroll down to 'System Info' where you can see the map info. Mine is currently 23.2

Can't help you too much on this as i do not have wiring diagram for your version. The large power cables go to few big loads but mostly to other other fuseboards where they supply small fuses going to smaller loads. One way to get a clue is to see which other smaller loads are not working, such as wipers, window raise/lower, radio etc etc. On the ecm question, Disconnect the battery then unplug the cable again and examine for bent contacts, chafed wires or other damage.

The same colour can have multiple names over the years, probably at the whim of fashion, it will also have different names across different marques in the VAG group, the paint code will remain common to all of them.

Its possible that the wobbly bearing was not particularly apparent in service before because the shaft was aligned and located within the crankshaft spigot bearing, on reassembly the drooping shaft would not have slid smoothly through the clutch splines and crank spigot bearing, tightening up the bolts may have pushed a displaced ball against the bearing carrier and broken it. Did you encounter resistance when aligning and bolting up the bellhousing? Did you check for smooth running on the input shaft when the gearbox was removed and also the crankshaft spigot bearing? Once the cage has broken up on a roller bearing disintegration follows rapidly. I'm pleased you were able to find the fault and replace the gearbox.

That bearing really is the definition of knackered, think that bearing is often the one that lets go in these gearboxes. I'd better let my brother know to take it easy then, he has the same engine and gearbox as in his mk2 fabia and its now past 100k miles with a fair few being quite hard (fully loaded and/or towing a trailer). I changed the gearbox oil at 80k miles to try and prevent a premature failure but I don't think it helps the bearing you show has failed as its a sealed one. However from what I understand, bearing lifetimes can vary dramatically between supposedly identical units so I guess its a roll of the dice, could last another 50k for all I know.

Best deal I got last year was through Sterling, which is part of Adrian Flux.

Never had this before but a bit of Google searching suggests you're not totally alone. Even if a lot of threads don't always present a resolution. If its not false activation in a pocket it may be a faulty transmitter or poor contacts inside the transmitter, especially check tge battery contacts and if there is any pressed contact on the board, clean with isoprpyl alcohol. Do you have the old batteries? Or an old battery that stops working. I suspect they may not actually be flat but just slightly reduced voltage from new. Test voltage with a multi meter. If you haven't got one, get one they're useful and can be picked up pretty cheaply.

OK, start by checking the fan fuses, then the Climate controls (with VCDS or OBD-II).

I'm also having door lock problems! 2017 car, nearside rear door fails to lock, and now sometimes, driver's door won't unlock! Car appears to be receiving the signals from the remote fob OK (tried it with both fobs), and if the fob is close to the car, the same thing happens if you touch the driver's door (the other doors unlock but not the driver's door). Are the lock assemblies in the doors, known for being troublesome?

There are no basic settings required for a basic headlamp level adjustment. Basic setting is generally for the manual adjustment side of the headlamps. Replace the level sensor which is a fancy potentiometer and you’ll be good to go. Sitting in the back of the car won’t make a big difference as the height adjustment is minimal and is only visible over a very long distance.

Hi. If you have any issues with insurance at all for a tuning box or re-map then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Horses for courses; there’s no right or wrong decision. One is limited to the max performance of a box but not with a map, albeit beyond Stage 1, it gets very expensive.

That’s Great many thanks for the info

Sent you a message

I would disagree on this one. I loved magnetic boot light. Try changing the wheel when holding your mobile in one hand. Whereas with magnetic light you can stick it to the car body and have two free hands to do anything. Same with quick check under the hood, etc. This one I do miss.

A little trip up to Scotland last week before the snow.

Just go with the Remap and if anything goes wrong with the engine or gearbox or Haldex then you know you have to foot the bill as no warranty. A Tuning box needs declared on your insurance anyway and and loss adjuster working for the Warranty provider checks the insurance. Skoda Aberdeen John Clark Group are not stupid anyway. If your car did break down and need recovered you are not removing a tuning box while waiting to be recovered.

Seems correct for the figures others have got and that is also a very good price.

On ST XA coilovers in the Scottish Borders 👍

Winter mode. Lowered little with h&r adjustable springs and 10mm spacers on 18inch wheels

You have towing weights on the chassis plate, you can have a towbar retrofitted. Skoda have a long record for screwing things up and making them unnecessarily complicated. The vRS was one of the first models Skoda used to claim that a genuine towbar could not be retrofitted, but without giving a reason. Then they said all models built without towbar prep or an actual factory towbar would not have towing weights printed on the chassis plate. Don’t get bogged down with Skoda UK’s ineptness. There are plenty of aftermarket towbars available to fit the vRS. Choose a reputable brand and trusted fitter and be sure the car is coded correctly. As mentioned unless you’re dragging the full 1,750kg’s up a steep incline in blistering heat for mile after mile you won’t need the upgraded grill or fan.

Had one fitted as standard on my old octavia under the passage seat. I retrofitted another one under the drivers seat. Wife's yeti had a passenger one as well. Must be a cost cutting exercise as my current 69 plate octavia estate only has the condon stowage.

Yep, been sitting a while. The wall at the side of it has kept the weather off the lower portions of the car. It's still really solid (a blessing for these old Fords) so that's a good start. It needs a fuel pump and front wings, which was the reason it wasn't MOT'd as the owners (who are known for shuffling through cars) bought a Volvo V70 to take over from it and just laid this up beside an Almera which needs a lot less work, but is about as interesting or exceptional as a beige electric blanket.

2023.01 Mk3.FL Module 13 Adaptive Cruise Control Long Coding -> Cruise Control Mode --> Activated or Control unit: 13 Adaptive Cruise Control System description: ACC BOSCH MQB Software number: 5Q0907572S Software version: 0780 Hardware number: 3Q0907567B Hardware version: H03 Long coding: old value: 32057FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000066 new value: 32057FD25DFFC728949C812481400680000000000000000076

Seems likely, but the most even a good code reader will tell you is which corner the fault is at, not whether it's the sensor, the rotor or the wiring that needs replacing.

I nearly replied yesterday to say that I think people are basing their FUD on knowledge of cars gone by. A belt on an old car didn't always live very long 20+ years ago, and this influences the mind into thinking their expensive car will suffer the same fate. These threads are repeated all over the internet for the other VAG brands with the same circular argument. Rather like a snake eating it's tail, something has to give, we need Skoda UK or factory to finally put a stop to this, but I suspect not as written above... this is a licence to print money from the FUD that they helped to spread by making it a recommendation.

Damn, mine has just become very loose (I can see the plastic starting to sheer on the handle)! I've just ordered a replacement using the part number on page 1 (thanks @psul). I've also looked at the door card removal guide (thanks @JGrindel). However, do I have to disconnect the battery? Can I just do it without faffing around under the bonnet? Hoping this is a straightforward job! Thanks

Not much for me to do this time of year. So, for no reason at all. I got in my car this morning and drove to Dunmore head, the westernmost point of Ireland and back, in one day. I say nonstop, but once I got close I kept hopping out to see the sights. Intended on going down to Kerry for the weekend this summer. Obviously that did not happen. Really wanted to do the ring of kerry too, that didn't happen either but I came across something just as memorable. Thank you Waze. Conor Pass: This Pass goes right up and over the hills from Tralee to Dingle. Absolutely amazing road and I could not have picked a better time to go up it. Hard to show just how high this road goes. At the peak. Further on, Dunmore head. The westernmost point of Ireland. Picked a good time of year to do this trip. These roads must become hectic during summer. Did have to cross a very small, very bumpy ford. Really like the Spyders, more than the standard wheels if I'm honest. The tyres are as crap as ever but, they did really well navigating a lot of standing water on a certain stretch of motorway.

I’m sticking with what appears to be the continental recommendation of 210000 kms (130000 miles) without time limit. It’s not without worry. You do wonder if VAG UK really do know something that they are not publicising. However, without an adequate explanation, I’m not adhering to the UK recommendation. My hunch is that the belt and associated components are good for the lifetime of the car (unless you are a Taxi driver). If VW are recommending a 130k mile change, that would be their worst case and you can bet your boots they have successfully tested the belts/associated components well above that mileage.