Leaderboard

One from Cornwall a few years back, looking forward to a few coastal sunsets again this year. (This is Porthcothan)

Came across loads of these on a recent walk around Rufford Park

Apologies, forgot to mention that the car comes with door handles in the title - I hope this clarifies things

Without a diagnostic scan anyone will be purely guessing. Contact a VCDS owner near you to give the car a scan.

I finaly got my Yeti back a few days ago, just over £1500 to sort out and it is great to have the vehicle back up and running. A whole bunch of work done, replacement fuel rail, injectors, battery, new water pump and belt, full service and everything that includes so all in all £1500 is not to bad. I have forgoton how to set up a couple of things and because of the works undertaken the workshop did a factory reset to clear all fault codes, I understand this, unfortunatly this has made disapear a couple of things that were enabled, one being the big didital speedo. However I have just invested in a Carista module/dongle and viewed a very good how to You Tube video so will have the big speedo back up and showing by the weekend. Good to be able to use my MP3 player and lisen again to my varied mix of music. All is good, it is one thing less I have to worry or feel bad about.

To add to this story, I've just come off the 'phone to my local Skoda dealer who has serviced my 2018 1.5 Tsi ACT Karoq since I bought it. I gave the registration and asked about the cam belt. She looked it up confirmed that the belt needed changing at the end of the month as that was its 5th birthday. I asked for a price and was quoted £599. Having followed this thread for a while I thought that was low, so I repeated that it was an ACT engine and asked to confirm the price once more. I was then then asked was it a chain or a belt (as if I knew!) Replied I didn't know. She replied, "hang on - I'll check with a technician". A couple of minutes later she came back and confirmed it's a belt and it would be £599 inc VAT. I ask if that's a fixed price and will it go up. "No" was the reply "I've put that down on the paperwork as the price I've quoted" So it's booked in. Since I was quite clear about the ACT engine twice and she looked up my car registration so should know the engine and she checked with a technician and I was told the price won't go up, I'm hoping they'll keep to the price. However, I fear I might have a fight on my hands at the end of the month, but I did mention 1.5 ACT several times, so I gave them every chance to check the quote. Watch this space for an update at the end of the month. Maybe they're getting used to doing the work?

An update on the topic for you, it has been a whole week since the body was cleaned, and I've done a fair bit of driving in that week, in traffic with the stop/start performing absolutely brilliantly, not missing a beat, stops instantly with no rough shudder and starts the same way. Power delivery is also perfectly smooth when pulling away from stationary, and the idle is once again nice at 800rpm. So the video I found on YT was correct and also a big thank you to DEL80Y, it really was just the throttle body that needed cleaning.

You could probably set the rears to DRL as well. I have on my Mk3. No experience of making VCDS changes on the Mk4 however. Appreciate this isn’t what you were asking either. Just some info really.

Yes to both, and you might be replacing it for nothing (no idea why you need a new bulb, and can be got elsewhere for loads cheaper) Do a search for "D1S" and see how cheap they are compared to the above price quoted at you. (You can get one from Halfords for £41) And I always recommend changing in pair, as you will have one bright and one dull lamp afterwards. Anyhow, as to the actual fault of the headlamp, I assume these must be what is called Bi-Xenon, so they have just a single bulb (the D1S) that produces the dipped and high beam using a mechanical shutter. If that's correct, then you may just have a simple broken wire, and could be fixed for a much smaller cost.

Sounds like a thoroughly professional outfit I hope that hasn't taken to much shine off 'new car day' for you and also that it is sorted quickly and to your satisfaction.

There is a video on youtube showing how to fix it yourself - it's not difficult - just basic screws and clips - no knowledge of electronics or soldering needed. Then you can do it yourself for about £25 - the cost of a replacement digitiser from ebay/aliexpress https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZAVyxZF8IM If you don't fancy trying it yourself, these guys in Coventry have fixed a number of them for owners over on the Yeti Owners Club forum: http://www.vagretrofits.co.uk/

You don't mention your car model. If your mirrors are electically controlled your rotary control switch should have a position at around 7 o'clock to fold in your mirrors. *Sorry you do say they are motorised

Try these people. RNS 510 / 810 Multi Function Display Repairs | SINSPEED OR SatNavSystems

Been pretty cold of late so I've not been able to do much. But the weather is warming up slightly so I can work on my stuff without freezing. Both cars are basically stripped inside now. The sdi a little more so than the vrs Then set about getting the pd lump out of the vrs. Was done an hour or so at a time until this evening Engines officially out, was a lot more stuff on this engine than the sdi, air con, extra wires etc. Sat next to each other From here it'll be swapping bits in the engine bays over and ofcourse the wiring behind the dash. If I want to make the air con work (and I do) ill have to rip everything out of the vrs it seems. Looks like the vrs had a new blower motor put on at some point and an air con condensor too. Both genuine VW bits to boot. If I could have the engine in by the end of the month it would be brilliant. It won't happen, but I can hope

Page 40 of the owners manual. If the vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft alarm system*, you must unlock the vehicle by inserting the key into the driver door you then have to insert the key into the ignition lock and switch the ignition on within 15 seconds after unlocking the door. The alarm will be triggered if you do not switch on the ignition within 15 seconds.

The piers at Blyth on the N E coast:

Please no spam only post new coding that is not here... if you like the manual give me a like thx OCTAVIA IV CODING tested working coding obdeleven To verify 3 steps unlock SFD, 1 is registration add name ... which was normal, then parking brake must be on, hood open, ignition on... SFD unlock each module in aplication , not only 1 , u need to unlock all... Lane Assist to "Last setting" (asistent jazdného pruhu na "posledné nastavenie" ) EN- driver assistance (module A5) > long coding > Configuration for lane departure warning KI15 > change to "last setting" SK- asistencia vodiča (modul A5) > dlhé kódovanie > Konfigurácia upozornenia na vybočenie z jazdného pruhu KI15 > zmena na "posledné nastavenie" VRS CLUSTER THEME: Control unit 17 - Adaptations - view activation (Zobraziť aktiváciu) - all which are OFF should be ON (Set all views to active) Speed warning: Control unit 17 -long coding-speed warning take off or on G-meter: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set G-Meter -> active Charging pressure ( turbo boost show) (zobrazenie turba): Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set charging pressure to active (bost pressure) Engine torque and Engine power: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents- engine power and torque set active Oil temperature Control unit 17 -long coding-oil temperature display-set active, this function factory set on.. Automat transmission temperature , oil temperature and coolant (water) temperature: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents- Transmission temperature set active Disable seat belt warning: Control unit 17 -long coding- seat belt warning verison1, version 2 or off- set off to turn off warning Show Volume to be Replenished (zobraziť kolko l dotankovať): Control unit 17 -long coding: volume to be replenished set active or on Laptimer: Control unit 17 -long coding- lapcounter set to active or on, other activation: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set lapcounter-active Control unit 17 - adaption- personalization- display_laptimer to active Staging, Needle Sweep, indicator celebration: Control unit 17 -long coding-Staging set yes Rear DRL Lights (rear daytime running lights) (zadné svetlá ako denné) 1.Module 09 - Electronic control unit 2.Adaptation 3.Daytime running light 4.Tagfahrlicht-Dauerfahrlicht aktiviert zusaetzlich Standlicht: - (Change value to On) CONFIRMED WORKING ADD Enable / Disable daytime running light in menu radio: DRL In lighting menu (Attivazione e disattivazione delle diurne da menù) - Select control unit 09 - Select Adaptation - Select Daytime running lights ( Per gli italiani, Luci Diurne) - Select Tagfahrlicht Aktivierung durch BAP oder Bedienfolge moeglich, Set to Active Lock when car engine runs: Control Unit 09 Adaptation ZV allgemein funk bei klemme15- set active Menu of control door locking view : Menuesteuerung Tuerentriegelung: or in English Menu control door release: -Select Multimedia 5F ecu -Adaption - Vehicle menu operation menu_display_central_locking > not activated ( original is activated and where is off take on)menu_display_central_locking_over_threshold_high > not activated (set activated)

Im looking at offering the following modification for people if anyone is interested. So the removable boot torch has nice white LED's for the torch part, but the actual boot light is an ugly dull yellow light not very fitting with a modern car as pictured below. Im looking to see if anyone would be interested in the following service; You post me your torch and once I receive it and inspect to make sure its undamaged and in fully working, I immediately send you out a replacement bright pure white LED torch. So a 1 for 1 swap without having to wait for the work to be done as I have some premade. Or if people want their specific one back or it is damaged I can happily do the work on their torch and send their exact one back to them - just means it will take a little longer. So you are probably wondering the outcome of this work and what it will look like afterwards, please see below; For those wondering cost, I was thinking £20 is reasonable, that will be the cost of the parts, my time to carry out the work and return postage included. So, what do we think? Would any of you be interested? (Will only be offered in the UK due to postage costs overseas)

I'm making this guide in hope that it helps other that are in a similar position. Through this guide you'll have a step by step process on how to access your door from inside the car. If you door is locked, deadlocked, or cables have snapped this will help you. Tools you're going to need Philips Screwdriver Trim Removal Tools (as to not damage any plastic parts Drill with drill bits or Dremel Step 1 You want to sit in the site facing the door of your choice Step 2 Remove the A-Pillar tweeter cover Step 3 Remove the inner door handle with the trim removal tool, on each side gently pull up. Step 4 Remove the window switch, I found that the easiest way is to life up the handle and put a trim tool in on the side and lift it out. There will be a tiny hex screw behind there, make sure you unscrew it and take it out! Step 5 There are x2 philips type screws, these need to be removed with a long screwdriver. Step 6 Now the tricky part, getting the door card off with minimal damage if any at all. Grab that trim removal tool once again and place it at the back (as in picture) and try to unhitch the top of the door card over the lip on the door. Step 7 Once you got the corner, you'll see that you can go all the way along to unclip it all. Step 8 Now removal the speaker grille and the speaker with your philips screwdriver. You'll see that I use VW/SKODA speaker adaptors for a neater install, if your's are standard then you'll just have x2 speaker connectors directly on the speaker. Step 9 All around the edge are screws that hold the door card in place, normally the door would be open and you'd unscrew them. But, as we cannot do this, you'll need to literally yank the door card straight off. Be sure to move the seat back to give you more space. Step 10 If you've managed to create a gap, be sure to un-clip any connectors before completely removing it, you don't want to damage the loom. Step 11 If the door is deadlocked and there's no power, no audible click, then you're going to have to cut into the door lock module. Look closely to my picture, you need to cut directly under the cable which is attached to the module. Step 12 Try not to go to deep as you don't want to ruin the cogs/gears. Once you can see the cog, you'll need to start to turn, unwind it until you hear a click or that you can pull the door cable and see if the door opens. Step 13 If you've done it all correctly then your door will open! Step 14 Inspect the door card for any damage, I had very minimal but I wasn't to worried as I have a complete VRS interior in the garage. Step 15 Give your self a pat on the back! If this was helpful and you would like part two of the guide which includes, handle and door lock removal then hit the like button. I'll put the effort in and complete part two and get it posted. If this was helpful, again hit the like button as I can always make more guides on the MK1 platform. I'd love to see pictures and hear your story on how you achieved this, so post your reply below! Thank you!

You'll have to forgive me in starting this thread late and writing most of this thread (to date) almost a year and a quarter after purchasing my Mk1 vRS TDI. Its been a journey... Without further adieu, welcome to the thread in which I'll be keeping updates and build progress on my own 2006 mk1 fabia vRS. As a bit of an explanation for some of the silly financial decisions, this project is born from nostalgia and as my affordable dream car. Not a wholly impressive one to most, it's what I wanted though, probably stemming from my first car. That was an X reg mk1 fabia 1.4 16v in cayenne orange and what a first car it was... Until it threw a rod that is... So, after trawling the depths of Facebook Marketplace I came across a fairly well presented vRS. It was advertised as completely standard (we'll get to that) and the only thing detracting from the car was n/s quarter panel damage in the ad. I'm not going to lie, it was a shed. It was a prime breaker. Although it hadn't had any parts of significant value added, so would have been harvested for what straight panels it had, and crushed. The battery was flat, door cards fell away when doors shut, central locking and windows didn't work, it shook like mad no matter whether it was idling or not, the passenger headlight was not attached to any part of the car, and it was as clean as your local public toilet. One eyebrow raising ridealong later i was sold, I'm a good boy and don't drive cars without insurance, nor did I want to drive it after learning it was re-mapped. But, I fell in love with the car and the surprising lack of rust on it... (Ps, it was also the first fabia vRS I'd gone to see in person as well. I can hear the eye rolls from here) So once I got my hands on it, I had to apply for the logbook (as the previous 4 owners, or so I'm told, never bothered applying for a new one... speeding tickets aplenty I presume) and I gave it a thorough wash. In the interest of readability I'll list the issues I found: Windscreen cracked O/S zone A Snapped O/S engine mount (not the bushing... Engine was listing a solid 40 degrees) Airbox screws all missing, aftermarket panel filter loose in housing. Probably doing about as much as using a sieve to catch water Loose engine cover rubbing on boost pipe Obligatory plastic boost pipe leaks Dent (almost a crater, had done a check before purchase and is cat D, wasn't advertised as such 🚩) Tyres, had Michelin pilot sport 3's on the front but one had a nasty sidewall cut, rears mismatched and cracking Alloys all curbed, heavily corroded and no centre caps Rear bumper cracked/ scuffed Front bumper damaged n/s entire front corner scuffed Drivers door dented from previous owner reversing close to a wall with the door open O/S fog light blown (what a PITA that was) Usual rips in seat bolsters and the seat foam was that far gone on the passenger side, the seat frame was visibly protruding No parcel shelf More fag ash behind the door cards than in a wetherspoons ashtray Drivers door loom broken, door lock microswitch toast Passenger window regulator and leaking rear door regs No brake fluid cap Various creaks and knocks Poorly ran sub wiring and no sub to be seen As a note, that list isn't exhaustive and I was fully aware of most of those issues or as to what I could expect to find further down the road... Or so I thought

Wheel alignment time. Drives so much better without the toe out that it had lol

That could not be possible when using the OEM jack to change a wheel.

It will eat up the miles, I bought my MK1 Octavia dead cheap on its 3rd birthday with 188000 miles, I said if it gives me 3 years and then dies I will still be ahead of the game. I abused it as a van for 13 years, overloaded the suspension frequently, towed massively overloaded trailers for thousands of miles, only really ever did oil and filter changes and brake pads, I could not kill the vehicle. At 16 years old and 325000 miles it was still running like a Swiss watch, it was the electronics that ended up seeing it go to the scrapyard and me not realising that by investing in VCDS I could have easily found the problem which was almost certainly broken wiring in the door loop. Your plan is a good one and I intend to repeat the experience with my Yeti, I'm already 3 years and 40K miles in, it had 79K to start with. You should budget for a DMF change if it hasn't already been done.

Well we’ve had the ev6 delivered and it’s sat waiting for the dealer/lease company to decide what to do with the delivery damage. It’s quite funny getting people staring at it when they deliver the post etc though.

Doubt it, I was only thinking of the way-lean tailpipe lambda reading.

All petrol engines with cats need to run at stoic for the cats to work optimally. MOT has very tight tolerance 0.97 - 1.03 from memory. Air leak in exhaust can make for dodgy tailpipe lambda reading, any chance there's such a leak?

Hi I'd be interested - though I'd prefer mine back (replaced the batteries recently). Let me know if you go ahead with this service. Like many I have replaced my tailgate (and all the footwell ) lights with led and the torch doesn't match! Thanks

They have dropped once as far as I am aware. MY RWD starts from 47k€ and M3 45k€.

What are you measuring it with? If you mean the Lambda read out on the MOT testers machine or printed on the certificate then it should be Lambda 1.0. If you mean the voltage from the Lambda sensor then I think it is 1 volt although I have a feeling that wide band sensors have a different voltage, in any case the important thing is to see the voltage constantly swing from high to low as the fuelling alters example 07 volts to 1.3 volts, for this you need an analogue moving scale display multi-meter.

RacingLine maps are done by Ben Wardle (formally Shark Performance). Ben has mapped 5 our our family cars, personally I wouldn’t use anyone else by choice.

I may just give KwikFit the job. They may very well do more regasses than AVW. And £15 is £15.

They use a halogen for high beam and Bi-Xenon for high and low. That's because the Bi-Xenon takes a while to get to full brightness so the Halogen is to cover the "Flash"

Someone called me so here I Am @BethanieAnne pls post your VIN so I can give you more details.

I find many Youtube videos like that on the computer.

The infotainment screen only changes to night mode if the setting is set to auto, which I don't set to auto because the maps are rubbish in night mode. However thanks for the heads up on the bulb symbol, i had only ever noticed the Auto illuminated by the light switch. As an aside I have always wondered why the tail lights aren't lit in daytime running, how many cars do we see running around with daytime running lights and no tail lights when it is going dark and the driver thinks all their lights are on because the dash is illuminated?

Even allowing for that period off the road that is still a pretty low annual mileage for a DPF Diesel. Before you go to trouble of looking at cleaning DPF, I'd think about sorting access to VAG DPF so you can see exactly the status of the DPF: Unfortunately, when I just checked Carista has gone up considerably since I got mine 4 years ago when I knew was going to be keeping my car and started to worry about DPF life. Was £10.99 on Amazon back then, now gone up to £34.99, damn COVID / Brexit / war in Ukraine / anything else manufacturers use as an excuse to make extortionate price increases! Less than 40 quid including the paid for version of VAG DPF is still a reasonable investment to put your mind at rest regarding current state of the DPF and if nothing else, the month free trial of the full version of the Carista software might also be useful to be monitoring for fault codes when this dropping out of cruise in 6th happens

Thank you for all your replies, I'll keep the forum posted. Cheers

Must have had a blast whilst driving the brand new car to you 😡 It's all totally unacceptable, hope the dealer sort it out for you ASAP.

Bought 2 days ago... take it back.. the fault code would have been cleared but still appearing every 10 minutes if you intend on fixing which you shouldn't have to as you just bought.. check my project thread I've just had to replace the mechatronics box and clutch, recoding etc. £2.6k The DQ200 on a a CAVE and CTHE will fail eventually, mine failed at 62k ...

Managed to finish* . As i wrote above i hated the idea of the usb in the passenger box, so i removed the MMI port and until to arrive* the correct usb port (5E1857367B 9B9) that cost only 18€ from the official VW distributor) i attached the USB cable to the MMI port. For quite some time i was frustrated cause everything was working except the Audio... could make calls though), In the end i realised that i had to disable the MMI port and enable the AUX-IN from obd11. The scroll between the menus was never the strong point of my MIB1 (even in stock..), i can say that it's totaly acceptable the performance Only issue /for now/ i have noticed, that the left scroller, that adjust the volume on the steering wheel, when you press, functions like mute, i'd prefer to pause the song, like the stock operation

More filler. Finally got some proper use out of those snow tyres. Only took a year. Didn't stay covered in slush for any longer than it needed to be. Changed the wheels back since. Was feeling very dead lately so cleaned the maf, which helped a lot but it still felt off so ordered and fitted another n75 which seems to have it back to where it should be. Swapped out the battery too for the one on the vrs as the new battery that was in it didn't like holding a charge overnight. Been fine since. Also blew another chunk out of the right front splash guard so ordered another one, new genuine ofcourse. I still have the passengers side one yo fit so I'll fit that at the same time. Pretty sure the rear ones are cracked on the bottom just in front of the wheels, may order them at some point too.

Simples really in that a UK MOT does not require the examiner to check that the car car display kph by changing some setting or another. C&U is a whole different kettle of fish and for the DVSA / DfT.

Tayna were excellent, next day delivery, in the end I got a Bosch EFB 027 battery.

@Moorwen you might be better starting a new thread of your own, certainly check the state of charge of the battery (a full battery is about 12.7V) and check the battery and main body earth connectors are all secure. If the car battery is in a low state of charge you might need to use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer to fully recharge the battery as just driving the car as you usually do might not be enough to fully recharge the battery. The fault might also be other, plugging in a scan tool would help to see what it shows, a battery in a low state of charge can throw up all sorts of error codes and warnings and so can bad connections or other faults. Checking the connections to the car battery and body earth are secure is quick, easy and free and if the battery state of charge is low fully charging the car battery will do no harm and may help.

I’m a pretty tight Scot, but not mean enough to remove the old Mudflaps from the outgoing car. I don’t mind splashing out on new online Mudflaps for the shiny new car. ”… don’t spoil the ship for a ha’p’orth of tar…” (btw- it’s referencing sheep, not ship - every day a school day)

Never heard of them. My immediate reaction is to chat to the dealer when collecting and do nothing now. When collecting mine, the dealer set up all the relevant Skoda assistance and app stuff. A WhoIs search has that domain owned by Easyspace Ltd, a domain reseller. I can't see how that's linked to Skoda.

I can probably find you the right part number if you PM me your VIN. The above tips look very handy though. 🙂

We spotted a GoldenEye earlier, along with a few others............

In the old days it was condom's in there 🥰

It will be the top mount bearing, no more to say.