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I would avoid the 1.5tsi and go for a 1.4tsi as the cambelt change on the 1.5tsi can be a bit on the pricey side.

There are cooling jets underneath each piston close to the crank and aligned to centre of each piston . Not sure if the closest one, could reach the balance shaft recess - only if the recess is not fully closed and has an open gallery area to the crank area below. Looked at the VW Self Study Guide which has some good diagrams of oil supply and return schematics and of the balance shafts and chain and tensioner but doesn't show or touch on the plastic tube.... Spent a bit more time looking at other videos this morning, got no further really. On the gen 2, there is quite a few balance shaft seizes out there on golf GTis and the like. All that I saw videos on - are on the exhaust side. On the gen 2, on the bs it doesn't seem that they ran the needle roller bearings now present in the gen3, but they still had a plastic tube on the exhaust balance shaft.... One of the videos I saw, with a siezed balance shaft, had damaged the plastic sleeve melted and distorted, from heat due to a strainer oil intake mesh on the balance shaft being partly blocked. Assuming that is the correct order of events. It's one hypothesis. It hadn't full broken apart though - the tube on that video it, the engine seized solid after a dyno run. And for the plastic parts that size to get to the bottom of engine like in this case, maybe there is a void or big return gallery in that exhaust balance shaft recess open to bottom of engine.... The debris can't come out the front of the balance shaft its bolted - to block. The debris size couldn't travel by fine oil galleries.. One worry I'd have is that the plasitc tube has failed due to excessive heat - due to a starved bearing on the balance shaft which could present a balance shaft failure risk without addressing.. The other, is whether that sleeve is directing oil or retaining oil in a particular way to ensure reliable operation of the balance shaft. Admittedly, it is expensive to address any of this and it seems to be running well for time being, so is it worth it on a fairly high mile vehicle.... It's all got a bit over my pay grade. And my head hurts now. I may post a comment on one of the gen 2 video failures I've seen and ask what they see the plastic tube purpose as...... see if I get a bite...

Balance shaft liner.

Another vehicle.

This makes sense. Having said that, this is the description of the Trafficmaster service on Wikipedia: That sounds like quite a lot of infrastructure to just chuck in the bin. I would hazard a guess that all of the above infrastructure still remains, and it's just the transmission of the data via RDS-TMC that has been arbitrarily and abruptly switched off. The easiest solution would surely be to just flick the switch back on... We still don't know yet if this is a case of car manufacturers deciding to stop paying Trafficmaster for the data, or Trafficmaster deciding it no longer wants to provide the data to car manufacturers.

Yes I reretted my comments about leaving it when reading about the mesh screen and bearing failures. Modern ICE's are just far too complicated now, Lol-Lols evengelism about EV's is beginning to sway me. I've spent most of this year trying to coax 2 stroke garden mechinery back into life, then carb rebuilds or replacement to get them all tip-top before they were needed yet they have all let me down the first time I tried to use them. My 1996 4 stroke disc cutter whilst a little temperemental, it is Italian after all still does what I ask of it even after several years of absence, still on the original spark plug. My 1960's wacker plate with a 1950's Villiers stationary engine always starts, it may rip the tendons out of your hands with kickback but it always starts even after being loaned for 5 years to serial abusers. Of course none of these are subject to emissions control. It was the simplicity of the diesel engine combined with the smoothness and economy that took me from petrol to diesel 18 years ago, the ASV (I think) engine in my MK1 Octavia was at the pinnacle of simplicity, reliability and efficiency, its gone rapidly downhill since, who could believe that the simple compression ignition engine would become so complicated and unreliable?

Sounds fairly normal to me, our 1.2tsi cars always sounded very rattly when stood outside and the bonnet up. The deeper knocking sounds more like gearbox input shaft (does it disappear when you depress the cluch?), might be that bottom engine mount. Or perhaps crank big end knocking, though I've never read of that on a 1.2tsi engine. The oil filter part no is correct. But Im puzzled why its black as Im pretty certain the Bosch filter should be silver as its a rebadged Mann OE (VAG) filter. Might be a counterfeit. https://catalog.mann-filter.com/file/Product/MediaAssets/MFPI097_en_Silver_oil_filters.pdf I'm afraid the only way to check the seal is to remove the filter, check and refit. Might as well change it then. Useful tips https://www.mpulse.mahle.com/en/article/changing-filters-and-gaskets

Yes, a lot of the 1.6 diesels are high mileage, so it would make sense that their previous owners may have been for taxi use. I think I will avoid the diesel and look to get the 1.0 or 1.5 petrol. We was going to get a small hatchback, but with the boot requirements, and for not a lot more money you can get an Octavia Estate we thought that would probably make the most sense. My wife was looking at things like 19 plate Hyundai i10/Kia Piccanto, and when you look at the prices they are selling for these days, you can get a 19 plate Octavia - but most with higher mileage.

The people who think they know best (in this extract referred to as "the anointed") have a pattern of behaviour: STAGE 1. THE “CRISIS”: Some situation exists, whose negative aspects the anointed propose to eliminate. Such a situation is routinely characterized as a “crisis,” even though all human situations have negative aspects, and even though evidence is seldom asked or given to show how the situation at hand is either uniquely bad or threatening to get worse. Sometimes the situation described as a “crisis” has in fact already been getting better for years. STAGE 2. THE “SOLUTION”: Policies to end the “crisis” are advocated by the anointed, who say that these policies will lead to beneficial result A. Critics say that these policies will lead to detrimental result Z. The anointed dismiss these latter claims as absurd and “simplistic,” if not dishonest. STAGE 3. THE RESULTS: The policies are instituted and lead to detrimental result Z. STAGE 4. THE RESPONSE: Those who attribute detrimental result Z to the policies instituted are dismissed as “simplistic” for ignoring the “complexities” involved, as “many factors” went into determining the outcome. The burden of proof is put on the critics to demonstrate to a certainty that these policies alone were the only possible cause of the worsening that occurred. No burden of proof whatever is put on those who had so confidently predicted improvement. Indeed, it is often asserted that things would have been even worse, were it not for the wonderful programs that mitigated the inevitable damage from other factors. Be it climate change or problems in the Middle-East, the pattern is the same. Crisis, proposed solution, detrimental effect, excuses. You'd think more people would have spotted the pattern. (Source of the 4 stages, Thomas Sowell's excellent book "The Vision of the Anointed". A very interesting and informative book.)

Challenge I have is to add a battery to my solar panel array is an upgrade/replacement of the inverter. Can’t remember the technical details without digging through loads of emails. Puts the cost up significantly, which is the frustrating bit. Though I’m hoping that at some point it becomes viable. I’m very impressed with the solar generation and have adapted our routine to maximise use of self generated power.

(Bold emphasis in quote added by me.) In that case, you'll love the UK government's behavioural science unit. https://www.bi.team/ One man's "coaxing people's action" is another man's "propaganda". It can be benign, or it can be very damaging. I don't much like behavioural science. I'd rather the government was honest and straightforward, rather than sneaky and subversive.

There are probably good reasons why there are so many 1.6d for sale. I believe they are popular with UK uber drivers so mileage would be relatively high and probable dpf issues starting to appear. Personally I would be looking at the 1.0tsi depending on price and availability of course. If you have to get the diesel it might not be a bad idea to get an odbc dongle and phone software to see the state of the dpf before purchase and maybe also see what error codes might be there?

Rationing in England because the surplus electricity generated north of the border is not going onto the national grid or those that can generated are paid not too and customers with Smart meters get paid extra to use less electricity than they usually do while those with renewables all around them pay higher tariffs than those in areas with a threat of shortage. All a con and a swindle really.

Can’t say I agree with you re. battery storage along with solar panels. I have a small fixed array on a south facing roof, paid for themselves in under seven years. Conversely, I have looked in to battery storage three times over the last five years. Each calculation comes back with an ROI in excess of 15 years at best, most realistically it’s nigh on 20 years; and yes, I have included overnight low rate charging. Best advice I’ve had is that a better would last about 12 years. Not investing in battery technology is a no brainer. All a bit frustrating ‘cos storing self generated electricity seems like a sensible thing to do. Hey ho! Battery development might change that equation but only if the costs don’t escalate in the process. Back to EVs, where will we get all the electricity from? (rhetorical question). Only a couple of months ago there was talk of rationing supply.

I think the vehicle age thing is a red herring. The dealer is spoke to checked his (newer) Golf which had the same problem. He had checked their “hub” for any information and nothing was forthcoming so I get the feeling this may have blind sided everyone. It doesn’t seem limited to VAG group vehicles either

Make & Model: Skoda Fabia VRS MK1 2004 Colour: Black Mileage: 172,834 Price: £500 Description: Fully running 2004 Mk1 Fabia VRS. Failed recent MOT due to passenger front door not opening (this is intermittent and think it may need door lock module replacing). Timing belt is due replacement believe it was last changed at 120k along with clutch. Front brake hoses also need replacing. I'm not in a position to get the above work done and get it back on the road and don't want to see it scraped. Would be a good project car for someone who can do the above work. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Previous major service was in June 2022 and AC was also re-gased. Usually serviced at MOT time each year but has been patchy and don't have full service records. Extras: N/A Mods: Revo remap before my ownership and aftermarket alloy from a SEAT Leon Cupra R (2002 - 2005) Shipping: N/A Collection: Yes - TN16 Pictures: Contact for more pictures

Hi How often is your Infotainment restarting? I my OCU replaced in last autumn and two years of frustrating non-connectivity and malfunction was solved. I am on SW 1896 and am assuming I am receiving automatic online SW updates(?). However for the last two weeks I have been experiencing at least daily (and now more than once daily) Infotainment reboots/starts whilst driving. It always behaves well once re-booted As my warranty expires in September I need to know whether I am aline in these recent reboots or if others are experiencing these daily+ reboots before I report another fault. Please let me know. Thank you

Skoda Storyboard has a link to the new model portfolio preview presentation at 7pm CEST, (6pm UK) today, 25th April https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/lets-explore-2023/ Mentions 3 new electric models by 2026, but no idea what will be revealed (or timescale) when any of these will be delivered to customers

It can be patched to remove CP and activate all the functions but it requires soldering and knowledge of QNX. If you are interested pls contact me on PM.

Dodgy solder joints in the dash cluster, mayhaps.

An easy check would be to swap the wheels front to back. If there is an issue with one wheel you'll notice the change straight away.

I had no restart issues for almost three weeks (after I formated the usb with mp3). Few days ago, i got an update and after the update, the restart issues began again... Just anoying because it erases all my favorite contacta ans I have to set them up again...

Good luck, hopefully it will be ok now. If not more investigations needed.

You can have update to 1440 sent via PM

@jorgAt least now people might see your review. Funnily lots of people seem to not have a look on Social media / forums for others opinions or experiences before distance buying.

The best and easiest solution that I can think of would be for VW/Skoda to move to an alternative RDS-TMC supplier e.g. INRIX. The only caveat being that for this solution to work the TMC tables and TMC codes contained in our existing maps would need to be changed or altered. This could be implemented easily in future maps. It maybe that the actual issue does not lie directly with the vehicle manufacturer but with the maps supplier whom I believe is a company called Here. Perhaps they deal with the RDS-TMC licence as the actual TMC data supplier details are stored in the actual map files.

Update: took my vehicle to a main dealer this morning. They verified the problem in my own vehicle and also another vehicle on the lot. Quickly checked to see if any error codes in the system, and there was nothing. Software up to date so nothing to do there (thanks to a forum member for helping me perform the update myself). They agreed it was pointless taking my car in for any deeper diagnostics as it was obviously nothing to do with the vehicle or even Skoda specifically, since the traffic data is supplied by a third party. They recommended I go back to Skoda UK to explain the issue and hopefully they will escalate it with the supplier. I have emailed them and now awaiting a response... I would encourage others to pester Skoda about this too, whether it be main dealers or Skoda UK. The more people raising it, the greater the chance they will do something about it. If we don't get anywhere, then I think we will be looking to get media involved as someone else on here suggested, Doesn't surprise me, from their point of view we are not direct customers. Better to escalate through Skoda, as described above.

Sounds ok short term, or ty-wrap to the original mounting holes unless the have been broken/worn off/damaged.

I agree, if it were mine I would be saying other than the oil suction blockages from the debris in the sump the engine seems to be running fine without it. Do the oil jets for the piston skirts spray or splash oil in that direction? I speculate it something to do with keeping oil temperatures down, the rear exhaust side of the engine block being heated by the turbo, it cant be to prevent windage losses if the other balance shaft is exposed unless oil is not present there, perhaps it due to where the oil drains down from the cylinder head. Part of me says the part is an afterthought, not designed in from the beginning, probably after they noticed oil heating or windage issues on the test bed. I would stick the pieces back together and use it in the bathroom!!!

I have had it once only, about 15 seconds after lihtly clipping a kerb with the right rear wheel when taking a corner too close not allowing for the different trajectory of the rear axle to the front. Warnings went away when I recycled the ignition and have not come back, I checked the sensor connector visibly when I refitted the summer tyres, if I have problems in the future I will know what connector to suspect but a VCDS scan would confirm.

My best way is to ignore it. No idea whether it should be included under the paint warranty other than feeling that you are setting yourself up for no end of grief and negative feelings.

thanks @PetrolDave, I'll drop it in to the mechanic and advise of the suspicion of the ABS wheel sensor

I had same noise. Dealership found the issue. Turbo solenoid was loose. After acceleration solenoid starts to work and resonates to the chassis. Simple fix, tight that solenoid bolts. If that helped, You own me a beer

thanks @spindlegridley, interesting to find out if any others have seen the same issue and if/how they were able to resolve it

MIB 1 Amundsen

Hi, thanks for replying. Yup engine gets serviced at the 1 year / 9000 miles servicing interval and is all up to date with all filters etc. DSG box has had oil and filter changed at 37k, 74k and car is currently on 109k so due again shortly. I have it changed at max intervals of 37.5k as my service book says 60000km / 37500mls.

They get away with being 'registered Charities', these Think Tanks and Businesses that are influencing governments or used to influence anyone including the general public. http://nesta.org.uk/team/ravi-gurumurthy http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Behavioural_Insights_Team

A very good question! You can "nudge" people, you can BS people, and you can flat-out lie to people, but reality is the bane of idealists. https://archive.ph/k8Fgx

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/tube/06k103199a/

Yes. The draindown seal has a habit of dropping out of the old filter when removing, partly stuck to the machined face in the housing and hiding under a residual pool of black oil. Poor mechanic that doesnt check with their fingers. Result is constant low oil pressure and flow. The critical chain tensioner relies soley on oil pressure (plus a weak spring), so the chain tension is too low which can be disastrous. Sometimes a mechanic fits the earlier 1.4tsi style of oil filter instead of the correct 1.2tsi type. Hence why Pete is asking for the oil filter part no, you should be easily able to see it on the filter. The video shows a black filter indicating an aftermarket type, VAG and Mann, Bosch equivalents are Silver.

My bikes never once saw the inside of my parents car or anybody elses. Times change, it certainly would not have been a factor they considered in choosing a vehicle. Wwhen I was a baby up to toddler age my parents had a pre-war Morris 8 Tourer, my sisters who would have been 7 and 10 years old then rode in the backseat and I was placed outside on the dicky seat in the slipstream of the exhaust and oil fumes, it's what made me a petrol-head!

They literally said, "we stopped transmitting RDS-TMC at the end of March as it's no longer supported". That was it, full stop. Not the best answer admittedly. All very well, but I've got a 2016 Columbus with no Smartlink.

My own issue precisely! I have had OCU replaced in November and everything has been working brilliantly until…. recent daily now several times daily reboots preceded by PDC (but I associate that with the reboot) And….my warranty runs out sooner than yours….in September. I have zero expectation of post warranty Skoda support…free of charge.

HGV Drivers require 'Halt / rest services with toilets and facilities road side the length and breadth of the UK roads network'. These should be 'Publicly owned land and facilities and could be transport hubs for EV charging vehicle small and large', and should take priority of land use before any more homes or industrial sites or retail ones get planning permission. If franchised there has to be restrictions on the prices / tariffs and profits the operators charge and get. Using training facilities and production lines, Pre fabricated / scaled to meet the locations and built by trainees / apprentices as part of a job creation scheme for the youth and unemployed in the UK. Not going to happen though.

No apologies for dumbing down this thread, but if the Govt want the masses to go for EV instead of ICE cars then they need bigger carrots and smaller sticks in their approach. What that looks like is probably an individual thing but I'll start with sorting out the charging infrastructure - increased availability of fast charging points, charging points that actually work, and in places where people want to stop on long journeys (so not only in the supermarket car park).

On the first drive after the update, the multimedia made a black screen and restarted. 🤦‍♂️ Later, another update appeared in the update queue.

Hi, My vRS 2WD estate, I generally travel long distances, eg yesterday North Yorkshire to Norwich, 70ish on the A1 and somewhat variable on the A17 and A47 204 miles 72mpg ,

Hello my friend , i've a skoda Rapid facelift edition with the swing menu , here's my fw version , i want to update it and activate Carplay if you can help me by any chance thank you

Hi guys, Didnt think I would become so addicted modifying my RS 2.0tsi so much lol. Now remapped to 320HP and 450nm torque with Eventuri air intake and after opf straight pipe exhausts only with a anti drone resonator. See pic. Now looking into downpipe replacement with sport cat and 2 mufflers with valves custom made and custom remap. Still surprised about the racing line figures actually. 510nm.. Anyone already going more than 350hp so far? For me it would be a stage 2 remap. Direct fit upgrade turbo seems not to be available yet. All your feedback is welcome!

I managed to fix this myself. 2018 (67) Octavia with 25k. I’ve been driving it a year with the error- doesn’t cause any issues other than the irritating ping and engine light but as I want to swap cars soon I thought I’d get it sorted. Removing the console cover is easy as just pull the gear knob cover up and then the panel underneath to expose the top of the gearbox. Mine was black so I ordered part 5Q0713128A. If it’s white it’s part 3Q0713128A. There is one horizontal torx screw that needs to be removed - (I’ve drawn an arrow where it is) - to access normally mean removing all the central console which was going to be a right pain so I drilled a small 5 mm to the left side in line with the screw and inserted long torx driver to reach the screw. Wiring is pretty straightforward- it’s just a bypass cable. As per 2nd pic the switch fits on top of the gearbox - the one screw removed needs to go back in once the new switch is in place and holds it i with some additional clips to use once happy with the position. Then there’s a torx on top to adjust the contact so the stick is snug against the micro switch. I thought maybe I’d not fitted it correctlyas the error still came up but a quick drive around the block cleared it. Note: before fitting I did tape up the stick hole to ensure I didn’t drop anything into it. Picture of switch mounted