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^^^ This, & what pressures have you set the tyres at since you got the car?

What tyres do you have? What condition are they in? Was it wet? Has your vehicle been modified? What was your previous vehicle that the vRS compares unfavourably to? What tyres did you have on that vehicle?

No such issues with my '18 vRS. It has plenty of grip and feedback... I'd suggest having the tracking and suspension checked for anything obvious. Other than that, what tyres and pressures are you running?

Pretty sky last night.........

So a fairly common problem along the MQB platform such as golf, octavia, superb and such is the steering wheel control thumb wheels either become intermittent or in my case, they would operate on their own randomly. Heres a guide to fix it: Cause: As the thumb wheels rotate anything that is on your hands ends up behind the wheel and gunks up the internal switch sensors and mainly the hall sensor which causes the fault. Tools required: Plastic trim removal tools Flat head screwdrivers Small picks Small mirror Torx screwdrivers T30, T25, T6 Contact cleaner Small brushes for cleaning such as makeup brushes 10mm spanner The first part is actually removing the steering wheel controls from the steering wheel. As we are working with airbags here you will have to disconnect the battery - take note if you have a keyless car to turn off the steering lock before disconnecting the battery. Allow the car to sit for 10 minutes to discharge anything in the airbag system for safety. Next you will be removing the upper steering wheel trim above the indicator and wiper stalks, this is done by simply pulling up on the trim closest to the steering wheel end. In the photo below indicated with a red arrow. Once this is done just flap it out the way towards the instrument cluster. We now how to remove the airbag itself. First adjust the steering rake all the way closest to you and down to give room behind the steering wheel. Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees in either direction so a spoke is facing straight up. I was unable to photograph this as its so awkward to get to, but using a small mirror and flat screwdriver look into the back of the steering wheel you will see a metal clip that needs pushing into the centre of the steering wheel till that side of the airbag pops out. Rotate the steering wheel 180 degrees the other way and pop this clip out too. Disconnect the 2 plugs for the airbag and steering wheel control and put the airbag aside. Now if you have DSG there will be 2 very small white plugs going into the backs of each side of steering controls, simply disconnect these. The steering controls can now be removed by using gentle force and the trim tools and will come out complete with the black trim as well, be careful not to damage any of the clips as you pull it out, there are no screws but be careful. Now you have the steering controls off the car the hard part is done. Turn them over on a soft surface as to not damage them. And remove the 2 small screws on each side to separatex the controls from the actual black trim and making sure to remove with the ribbon cable and not damage the cable. Put the black trim aside. Now we have the controls on their own and the following must be repeated for both sides! Undo the 2 tiny screws with a red arrow and also pop the clips open for the 2 blue arrows Slide the back cover down the ribbon cable and out the way to expose the circuit board so it looks like below Now lift the circuit board out of the plastic housing to expose the front face of the circuit board, we will start with the circuit board cleaning first, get some of your contact cleaner (if its a spray, spray some into the lid to have a small bowl of liquid to dip your makeup brushes in) and you are going to wipe clean all of the arrowed parts shown (even if they dont look dirty!) Next the thumb wheel sensor itself needs a clean, be very very gentle here, the components can be damaged if you are rough. You are going to use a clean brush with contact cleaner to clean inside this sensor, both sides on the inside faces where you can see the hole, and the opposite face too. This is the circuit board clean now. Next is the contact pads and thumb wheel itself. First for the contact pads give them the same treatment as above on the arrowed parts Then pull this rubber cover off to expose the inside of the back of the control face. Be careful and take note of the small plastic 'plungers' that will fall out and need to go back in the holes arrowed blue below. The arrowed red section is the sensor pickup for the thumb wheel and where build up mainly occurs. This needs a very thorough clean with contact cleaner and the makeup brush as you rotate the thumb wheel to get every side of it. The small cut outs in this little pickup wheel need to be free from everything, including any lint or build up. Once this is done, repeat the whole procedure for the other side. Now you can start rebuilding everything. Place the 2 plungers in the hole and put the rubber cover back over the top the right way up. Rest the circuit board back down on top making sure to locate it correctly. Refit the plastic cover and the 2 screws per side. Once both sides are done, refit to the plastic trim piece and clip it back onto your steering wheel gently with light pressure to push the locating pins back into place. Dont forget to reattach the DSG paddle plugs and then refit your airbag plug and steering control plug before refitting the airbag into the steering wheel - push the airbag till you hear the click of both sides of the clips re-engaging. Refit the trim piece behind the steering wheel now starting closest to the dashboard this time. Reconnect the battery now and start the car. You will have a dashboard full of errors at this point - dont panic - just slowly turn the steering wheel lock to lock twice then restart the car again, all errors should be gone. Congrats - you are done, hard work paid off and saved yourself the price of a new set of controls at £250!!!

Short instruction how to do the upgrade: 1. Extract archive directly to the USB stick (Meta/Data folders should be in root). 2. Insert USB stick into USB port 1 or 2 (I used USB-C adapter). 3. Turn on ignition. 4. Hold "MENU" for few seconds to enter service mode. 5. Select software update. 6. Select USB1 or 2 (it's highlighted if detected). 6. Follow the instructions. The first two steps (MCU/CPU upgrade) took me about 25 minutes, and two long reboots, the rest like 5 minutes without reboots. Don't interrupt if nothing happens even for a few minutes, it'll progress. Process looks almost the same like in this video:

Cleaned her and went to my local car spot motorist hub

Visited a secret bunker, part of the cold car ROTOR system. Very 50’s

If you're offended by the ugly corrosion simply mask the background with a piece of cardboard and use masking tape on the wiper arm, then a wire brush and some black smooth Hammerite will cure your OCD for just the cost of the paint. No need to remove or replace anything.

There is an Energy Emergency for many places & people. Also a drinking water shortage type emergency so much more energy to desalinate sea water is required.

We should consider ourselves very lucky, given we’re able to interrogate and make changes to our vehicles systems, allowing us to access and make use of another traffic monitoring system. Over in the Honda Owners Club forum, they’re complaining about the loss of TM and it seems they have no way to change-over to INRIX and, I presume, it’ll be the same for many other vehicle manufacturers products too.

One of the forth bridge.

Just because you have done it many many times doesn't mean its safe nor the correct way to do things. Most suspension and subframe bolts are called torque to yield bolts meaning after tightening they stretch so only get one use. Now you are lucky if you reuse the bolt and it snaps when you tighten it down - lucky why? Well because the unlucky option is that it tightens down beyond its yield limits and when you go to do a strenuous maneuver it sheers off and causes a crash. Nothing to do with lack of experience (especially with quite a few years in the trade) more to do with keeping everyone safe by doing a job properly and having the knowledge to do it correctly. Which is why a forum is only as good as the information shared on it and why its imperative you give people correct and safe advice.

Very appreciated. I've just finished the upgrade process, let's see if the new version indeed brings the improvements :).

Stick a jack under the sump with a block of wood to protect it and spread the force then lift it a little til you have clearance?

@Kevzoid @BritishBeef You both have Private Messages

I’m pleased to report that more than a week has passed since I installed 1941 and no bugs have occurred ever since. So far, 1941 has been rock solid for me. The car should have worked like that since the very beginning.

New pads and rotors (waiting on rear pads to arrive towards the end of next week). All up around £460. Dealer wanted £720 to do just the rears (parts + labour) which was a laugh!!!

The 20" are on it now.

Hi, Yes, 5274 is the final version of SW for some models. For some other models, the 6276 is the final version! I'm sure, someone in here will let you know what final version you need! I'm not able to let you know which final version you need. Sorry!

True, if you accept there is a "climate emergency".

No issues yet besides the shop not working due to some service that's not started. I can live with that if the rest of the car functions normally. I'll make screenshot/clip next time i'm in the car and get these messages for reference here in this thread. I noticed tough that startup and menu operation is a bit quicker, more responsive. I'll be honest, this might just be a placebo if having something new and shiny 🙂 It's a bit too early to say that it is a 100% success but so far no Infotainment crash.

Fairly straight forward but long winded. remove all grab handles using SPECIAL tool. remove front overhead light unit Remove a b c (d) pillar trims Remove the few small clips that hold it in place and the tops of the door and tailgate seals and it should drop down and of course - slide it out the boot, have 2 people as if you bend it if will never look the same!

Are you looking at the Coolant Temp which will get to showing around 90-92 *oC, or the Oil Temp which might get to 50*oC after a few miles and then up to the normal operating temp around 90*oC which is where the coolant is trying to keep it at, and then it can increase to over 100*oC and the Coolant System operates to bring it back down again with the use of Coolant, Radiator, Fans. As it has been with Liquid Cooled petrol engines for decades.

Yup, but at my age, I don't want to move any more, I can't be doing with all that stress and hard work, anyway, what is a nice area today could, tomorrow turn out just as bad as what we have today if the wrong people move in, so just have to keep on about the tree for me and hope that one of the authorities will eventually own up to it and remove it. It is an accident just waiting to happen as it is taller than the house and when we get gales, branches break off, the rest of the year we get pooping, leaves falling clogging all the bonnet vents and wipers and then in the spring we get all the bloody catkins dropping everywhere and getting trapped under the wipers blades 🤬

Hi Just checked my car and cig lighter is constantly live.Should you use cig lighter you would have to switch dashcam manually.Hope this helps,Cheers Andy

I have the same problem, there is a tree at the side of my drive, but its not my tree, and the councils and housing partnerships claim its not theirs either and if I park on my drive, I'll have many poops on it the next morning. I try to park outside my house on the road but my neighbour has 5 bleeding cars and vans and also try to park outside my house and if I get there first and then have to go out in the evening, they will move into the spot forcing me back on my drive. I only have the one car and like to leave the drive free for my son or the in-laws to use when they visit otherwise they have park in another street.

On what basis do you make that unequivocal statement? Has the vehicle been scanned for fault codes, measuring blocks for the DPF calculated and measured soot and oil ash loads, DPF differential pressure readings etc?

Sounds a great deal to me All the best

Yes, those.

And I got her the 18” Perseus wheels and wrapped the chrome linings from the front bumper. I wanted to purchase a Sportline diffuser, however it does have crome elements on it and I don’t feel like it’s worth the trouble to wrap it again. The next thing is to work on silencing the interior a bit more, as it is a bit noisy at high speed.

No you would enter 14. I just mentioned the binary thing to explain why the maximum number quoted was 65535.

Thanks very much. Really appreciated 👍

I don't think that the inefficiency of renewables converting water to hydrogen is that much of a problem, especially when you consider the big impact that mining for minerals used in batteries is causing at the moment. But the 2 arguments for hydrogen are interesting. The ICE one relies on the fact we already have the infrastructure and manufacturing in place to make them (a redesign of cylinder heads and injects notwithstanding). The building of so many mega factories, designing EV cars (huge amount of emissions from all that computing) and completely new manufacturing facilities has produced a massive amount of green house gas over the last few years and the break even for emissions of a large battery EV are only after a surprisingly high number of miles. I've seen JCB being quite open about the challenges of Hydrogen ICE and accept they had to do a fair bit of work to sort the emissions out. In an ICE car we would probably have to accept that we may have a decent amount of torque, but probably not a huge amount of power, more akin to an average family diesel in its performance and not like a 911. Harry Metcalf got some Carbon-neutral fuel in, for his fleet and said he will report on it later. He did mention the cost, approximately three times the current cost of fuel, but that would come down to some degree if it was scaled up in its production. I like the idea of carbon-neutral fuel for pretty much the same reasons as hydrogen ICE, we don't need to add extra millions of tonnes of green house gases building and designing new 'stuff'. The hydrogen fuel cell is also fine with me and there seems to be a genuine move that manufacturers are looking at this in earnest. As far as I know, the number 2 car on the Dust to dust rating is still the series 1 Land Rover. Something I doubt electric cars will ever come close to replicating. It's not that I don't like the idea of electric cars and I accept that although I will never have any real interest or feel any more passion towards them than I do my fridge freezer, we need to do something about global warming and cars are a contributor to its rising. I simply feel that of all the alternatives, the wrong direction to head in, is the battery electric vehicle. On a positive note, this super warm weather of late has brought about my best ever range in my PHEV, even with the air con on full tilt, as its batteries seem happier.

I'm no expert, but I'd say yes keyless start is safer compared to keyless entry. The thief would have to force their way into the car first and would probably set off the car's alarm before attempting to relay the signal to start the car. Nothing wrong with keeping the fob in a Faraday pouch, but probably isn't necessary.

Thanks for this. The battery light (red) does come on after ignition switched on and goes out once engine starts. So, I hope that aspect of my car is all okay.

I run my 16 plate in Individual which is remembered every time, including the DSG in Eco mode.

Well yes, there will be updates. But perhaps best left alone, eventually it will break by itself. If you do want to load some updates, get back in touch.

Thankyou! I saw a hatchback in velvet red last week and although never been into red car, the velvet red with the contrasting black sections looked amazing actually. Things are certainly started getting built more from what I've seen on the forum these past couple of months. Enjoy the car once it arrives

Use of Cobalt is a rapidly dying usage in EVs as there is a rapid transition to Lithium Phosphate as car batteries. I would have thought you are more likely to be buying items with Cobalt in your mobile phone and other items using Lithium ion items camera, shaver and numerous other small electrical items but not for many current EVs and for the future EVs which are and will not be using cobalt and rare earth elements. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery#:~:text=LFP batteries are cobalt-free,of LFP battery type production. LFP batteries are cobalt-free.[7] As of September 2022, LFP type battery market share for EVs reached 31%, and of that, 68% was from Tesla and Chinese EV maker BYD production alone.[8] Chinese manufacturers currently hold a near monopoly of LFP battery type production.[9] With patents having started to expire in 2022 and the increased demand for cheaper EV batteries,[

Probably Toyota have enough Self Charge Models sold / first registered in the UK for the 'Fleet Average Co2 emissions' so do not need to bother with the kidolgy of these Hybrids at the moment. They can concentrate on getting the Fleet Average for the EU where it needs to be.

I think that the "Kessy" name also covers "Keyless Entry Start Stop System", and also "Keyless Start and Stop System" which is a little confusing. I've attached the SE L and Colour spec below which refers to Kessy as just Keyless Engine Start and Stop

It looks like the diamond silver alloy rim listed below with colour code 8Z8. 6 5E0601025T Aluminium rim 7Jx17 ET45 4 PR-CD2 SCOUT 5E0601025T HA7 Anthracite metallic (grey) Finely turned aluminium 5E0601025AR Aluminium rim 7Jx17 ET45 4 PR-CN0 NIVALIS 5E0601025AR 8Z8 Diamond silver https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/753/6/601/601070

Mine is on about 95,000 miles now. I have had a few problems, nothing disasterous - touch wood! Haldex pump failed at 20k miles, replaced under warranty. I do my own Haldex oil changes now, including cleaning the gauze filter on the pump which is full of black fibres each time. The Skoda dealer will just change the oil, not clean the gauze, which IMO is no good. Had an issue with a wheel bearing at about 35k miles, again replaced under warranty and so far all the others have been fine. The usual brakes and tyres of course. I also had hassle with fuel leaking from the filler cap in hot weather, a problem with the evap canister and the valve on the engine, but both were fairly cheap and easy to replace. I had a leaking front DCC shock which seems to be a common issue, replaced at great expense a couple of years ago. Fortunately the other side seems fine for now. And I have now had 3 out of 4 suspension springs break. Which is pretty poor but fairly cheap if fiddly to replace. In terms of the core components, engine, dsg and all the many electronic gizmos you get with an L&K, it has been reliable.

No Google service, nor my browser, on my phone has access to the location; and no, I don't use Google Maps or Waze for navigation. But this is way off the topic of virtual cockpits...

Yup I have a 3 mile commute and get around 22mpg ..... Couple of weeks ago had a trip to Wales and managed 42 which is the best so far.

I like young, high-mileage cars, so if the car has been serviced well, and the price reflects the mileage and condition, then it might be a canny buy, especially as you intend to keep piling the miles on.

Lovely at Keddlestone Hall earlier, although rained just as we were leaving

that is real pain, when you to drive ~80 kms without Cruise Control and have to keep less speed than flow really can't understand where is problem, twice click on links i posted above - Pros and Cons have been described already: a) same size as all other wheels + can be installed on any axle + can be used for longer distances + no size diff = no speed limits + Cruise control will be available - boot floor will be pushed few cm up - most expensive b) custom 205/65r16 (my choice) + minor width diff will provide safe driving on + 30% of speed printed on spare disc. Important note, when installed on rear axle. + minor circumference diff will provide ability of Cruise control usage. In theory, i haven't had to use this spare after tire were changed. + fits in it's place, doesn't change size of boot. c) OEM 205/55r16 + lot wider than 'd' = safer than 'd', but don't think printed speed limit can be exceed more than + 10%, even when installed on rear axle. + fits in it's place, doesn't change size of boot - huge circumference difference disables usage of Cruise Control - huge circumference difference isn't healthy for 4x4 d) OEM 125/70r18 + fits in it's place, doesn't change size of boot - huge width difference = absolutely unsafe, even when installed or rear axle. - huge circumference difference disables usage of Cruise Control - huge circumference difference isn't healthy for 4x4