Leaderboard

Lovely out at Carburton this evening.👌

Not even wear, the seperation that they and I both mistook for disintegration is moulded in and an integral part of the design, the new one I bought is identical 😒 Every now and then I try to pull the outer ring sideways on the one on the car and compare it to the new unused one in the bench vice, no difference yet. I was only out for €80 and the part will one day be used if the diff ever comes out or propshaft removed.

Next up, smashes the BMW M2 on acceleration, forward to 14th minute to se shootout........

UPDATE / SOLUTION Tested compression - low on cylinder 1, OK-ish on 2 and 3. Towed to mechanic - his analysis was same as here - timing chain jumped. Stripped timing chain, crank out by one or two sprockets. Fitted new timing chain kit. Car started but very uneven, not running - v poor compression on cylinder 1 - fine on cylinder 2 and 3. Head off - valves damaged on cylinder 1 - OK on two and three. Off to engineering shop - head skim and new valves all round - thankfully no damage to guides/seats. Re-built and running sweet. Takeaway: Don't park up hill in gear.... liable to jump timing chain - fix that stretched handbrake cable... After jumping one sprocket car kept running but poor performance, excess fuel consumption and ultimately killed CAT. Thanks again for the helpful advice provided here - spot on!

That would 100% always be an insulated sealed connector not a bare ring terminal. Bare ring terminals will 100% be ground wires.

I took my 280 round the ring. First in real life lap for me. Elevation changes is nuts. Busy session. Win because car still in one piece.

Well, I’m pleased to report that the problem has disappeared. Have just filled up at a local co-op. Can’t tell how relieved and happy my wife and I are. We were having visions of it spoiling our holiday but we need worry no more. Might actually get a full night’s sleep tonight. Thank you everybody for your suggestions. It would be nice to know the cause in case it happens in the future to me or anyone else for that matter but I suspect we’ll never get to the bottom of this mystery.

All things are possible provided you have the requisite skill/experience/training and the right resources/tools/equipment for the job. Yes, as with all VAG engines, you do need to remove the left engine mount to remove the timing covers covers as well as the belt and a VAG workshop will support the engine level with a engine support bar fitted over the engine bay. Not watched the full video but lowering the engine is IMO definitely a bad idea and making a lot of extra work and scope for damage. Unless you're a trained mechanic with full workshop facilities and the correct specific tools, workshop manual, I'd say forget it. Pay a specialist £500 and spend the day doing something relaxing or even earning some money.

If you are reading this post do not despair! The horrible burning smell coming from your new diesel car is OK. When you stop and turn the engine off and the fan stays on and the engine seems to be super hot, the car is OK. The above are clear signs of an active DPF regeneration and is normal for your new diesel Skoda car. To comply with the latest emission levels diesels have to capture the large soot particles and burn them up into smaller particles which are kept in the DPF, this process is called regeneration. A lot of regenerations take place during normal driving where the exhaust is hot enough to burn the soot in the DPF and are unnoticed and are known as passive regeneration. When the temperature in the DPF is not hot enough for an passive regeneration, the ECU injects diesel into the DPF which burns up the soot and is known as an active regeneration. When you stop the car part way through an active regeneration, often the car smells like it's burning and the engine fan will stay on to cool the car. Mods could you please edit this thread (if needed) and make it a sticky or just delete, thanks

[UPDATE: Car is sold] Hello Briskoda! I got the notification yesterday that my Enyaq VRS is in the UK and on its way to me; so I need to sell my daily runner Skoda Superb to make space (according to my wife). So hereby request for interest! For the uninitiated - yes, this is a 3.6 litre V6 Skoda Superb. It is the size of a limousine (I am over 6’8” and fit comfortably with room for another me in back seat) and is super smooth and comfortable. And quick. bad stuff first: alloys have a couple of scratches, some discolouration on some of the chrome plastics, some stone chips on the bonnet down to base coat, a few scratches in plastic trim, some of the air vents are broken, some damage to the after market rubber boot liner - see pictures, happy to take/send more if you need. good stuff: recent MOT, less than 97000 miles, all seats heated and aircon, sun roof, never a mechanical issue with engine, full service history FSH, creamy smooth automatic box, V6 power, four wheel drive 4x4, newish tyres (+I’ll throw in a set of winters for the right price), I have installed a Qi phone charger which can go with the sale or I can remove if preferred, plus the full high spec of 2013 Elegance model - Bluetooth, CD changer, Digital radio, SD card reader, twin climate etc. ugly stuff: that twin hatch boot is just irritating… I need to shift it fairly quickly if I value my marriage and you’ll need to arrange collection from bonnie Aberdeenshire, Scotland. I’m looking for offers over £6,300.

I understand it was an OE screen as compatible ones weren't available. Autoglass also said that the correct one they fitted the second time around was the only one that had available in the country. Facelift and heated.

In principle yes, but the wheel nut spanner in the boot should be sized to give you an acceptable approximation to the required torque.

I’ve just re-read my post and realised that I didn’t explain very well. The gauge read one big division below half full BEFORE I filled up with fuel. It read full afterwards. Sorry for the confusion. I used to be a technical author so should know better 🥴

And even then they’ll try and flog him a compatible pen for £🤬

Ok im confused now. If it was a third full and you then put 43 litres in it should nowbe full... You said your gauge was showing one big division below half full after filling. If so its way out.

I use them in winter time when the weather starts to get colder than minus 10 or minus 15 Celsius. They worked almost without problem each time, but sometimes the earth fault breaker on the wall would pop... Now i have some guess about why it did that 😃 My guess is when the dealership did the cambelt and the waterpump, the mechanic unfastened the cable, because it was on his way , then he forgot to fasten it back .

Went in for a service to Skoda Edinburgh west yesterday . All updated as requested and a very good all round customer experience. Will certainly be giving 5 Stars on the feedback! reboots gone and sat nav now 23.7 all good

When my battery gets low and says zero range. It switches to hybrid and I still get the motor boost. Never had it not work. But then the car is pretty good at recovering energy. So either it holds some charge back for boost or it has always recovered enough energy by the time I need it.. Engine on its own is not very eco. But you are more likely to recover ev charge round town as you brake a lot more so will get higher mileage as it will top up and switch to ev.

There are 4 'Gigaro alloys' for sale in the Wheels for sale on BRISKODA. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/514277-17-skoda-gigaros-x4-£300-ono Just an idea. you keep 1 of yours as a Full Size Spare and sell 2 as Full Size Spares.

Genuine Skoda wheel, "Ray", part number 5JA601025D FL8 per Catcar. Can't see any on Ebay at the moment but if you search on the internet you'll find one. Might cost you though!

Its not exactly something I would recommend for a DIY job for anyone, but then i dont know your skill or tool levels. If you are having to ask then I am assuming you may not want to attempt it really. Not without someone that is skilled assisting you. Do you have the correct timing tools? The torque settings as well as all the replacement bolts that are stretch bolts, including the engine mount bolts and their new torque settings? Also a lot of people forget that to properly bleed the cooling system after requires a diagnostic routine being ran on the car to remove all the air bubbles from the system

Why replace a decent genuine part with a cheap one that could and do just split for fun along their seams? A genuine one with no silicat bag is only £30 They are two separate parts and dont fail together, why change both when only one is the problem? Also be wary of fitting an aftermarket cap as they may have different pressure ratings than what is meant for the car. Annoying that some are like this, have you double checked the bottle says 'mit silikat' as some dont have the bag if you cant see it Why would you get rid of all the genuine coolant that offers the maximum protection and replace it with some universal stuff that definitely will not offer the same protection. Instead just clamp the pipe off when you replace the bottle and top up with 1L of genuine G12evo coolant which is the newest revision and saves you draining all the good coolant to replace with non compatible stuff. (Also mixing certain coolants can cause a world of problems). you would have to fully flush the system with water before adding a different coolant. Using the above method will prevent any need to bleed the system. But if for some reason you still go ahead with a full drain, then it depends what engine you have. If you have a 1.6 or 2.0 tdi then you will need to correctly bleed it with a vacuum bleeder followed by running the diagnostic bleed routine. Similar process for the 2.0 tsi, for the smaller engines it varies but isn't as complicated.

Be interesting to see what they class as failing, photos would be the best! If its light cracking, this is perfectly normal. I wouldnt consider changing it till the cracks begin to penetrate the width of the rubber by maybe 30-40%.

Should be about 65litres so filling with 43 should have taken it to two thirds full... So that gauge is reading wrong

Hi, my 1.5 is the SE Technology, therefore no mode selection. Sainsbury's Super Unleaded is E5 (Or less) and I attempt to drive with a light right foot, quite often on two cylinders at 70 mph. I was told by a Skoda Technician that the 1.5 TSI engine should run more smoothly and efficiently on fuels with >95 RON - Indeed the manual says 'Using higher octane petrol than 95 RON may result in improved performance and lower fuel consumption.' It's all a bit of a grey area and very subjective isn't it? But I reason that Sainsbury's SUL is cheaper than some branded 95 RON fuels, therefore why not - As you say, the car 'Feels' smoother on a higher Octane fuel, even so, there is not a great difference between your observations and mine

Yes it was. I estimate I’d used about 6 galls. Had towed the caravan about 160 miles so about right (average consumption was 28 mpg).

in your inbox

Just because a mechanic installed the pads doesn't mean the job has been done correctly, worth checking again to make sure everything is installed as it should be. https://www.bendix.com.au/news-events/technical-bulletin-brake-noise-depth---causes-and-prevention

I recently had a back to back test drive in both a Nissan Leaf and a Mazda MX 30. This came as a surprise to me, but I had a strong preference for the Leaf, as it was quieter, smoother (more refined), quicker and easier to operate, despite being a considerably older platform. The Leaf Satnav (and interior in general) is dated and dissapointingly the Bose was the worst premium ICE I'd ever heard, but I could manage with Android Auto. The Mazda by comparison was fiddly, noisier, slower and generally a bit of a faff to use. The rear doors are also a right palava and ultimately a deal breaker. All of which has convinced me I need to find an inexpensive Leaf 👍

VAG cars normally wash the headlights only when the headlights are active and you use the washers

I have these on the front at least a kilogram lighter than stock.. and then the Zimmerman sport coat z Drilled on the back. Looking at autodoc now and looks like they have some new directional slotted discs that look good by Zimmermann

Yes 560nm. I had it done initially in the uk via a TVS agent the was 360bhp 530nm I then fitted the r600 and gfbdv+ so when I was over in Holland on holiday I popped in and got them to recalibrate for 99 octane fuel and to account for the additional mods. Awesome crew there. Cool, sounds like next little mod will be the ARB and front bottom arm bushes then

Hi, the issue with my car has been resolved. It wasn't an undervoltage, but it was an overvoltage that disturbed the front assist. The solution was, that a skoda technican built in a condenser to filter out overvoltages. regards

Tried that still the same but thanks for the info.

I would have made the same error myself. 👍

Here she is😎 Will post more pics later on.

Hi, Just a cautionary tale, I bought a 2020 Octavia MkIV a couple of years ago to replace my 2015 model. I had a towbar fitted to pull my caravan then discovered that the car was in fact plated at zero weight for towing!

Well...Having just done my first ever lap of the Nurburgring TF.... I will say that there is enough power in stock form for the 280. Brakes are OK too, albeit I have a new set of discs and pad but nothing fancy. Stock size and ATE ceramic pads. The suspension is not keeping up, I do not have DCC. I do have Michelin PSS tyres. Still very fun and scary at the same time. I also saw a CZ plate 280 there. Wonder if it's a member here.

No, they don’t. And I was wondering about the venting system but I can’t imagine how it would malfunction in such a way as to retain fuel in the filler pipe. It’s all very weird. Drove another 90 odd miles this morning to Builth Wells so now I have less than half a tank. I’m hoping that the problem has gone away but won’t know until I try to refuel. Will give that a go tomorrow

Reason for no meets is, too many people ask why there are no meets and moaning that no one organises a meet, whilst doing nothing themselves, and then when someone does organise something half the people who are interested don't turn up. I used to organise the Malthouse meet years ago but beyond a hardcore few each month it would be anyone's guess how many would turn up, especially frustrating when food had been organised for the expected number. Organised European trips in the past as well, but when you start you have a load of interest so start looking for hotels etc for xx bodies and when it comes to booking and paying you end up with X bodies, very frustrating. Feel free to DIY though.

Ressurecting this thread a little as I have reached another milestone with the Van, its not doing bad for 15 years old...

That's an Augusta Westland 169 like the one in the vid below. Under two minutes for pre flight checks and take off. I wouldn't be too concerned about the pilots age. A case of 'don't the coppers look young these days'

Had a visit from our local Air Ambulance a short while ago (they were thankfully stood down). The Pilot was 26 years old - younger than both my kids! It took them 12 minutes to get from Redhill Aerodrome to Eastbourne: Gaz

Thanks mate - all my brake lights are working on the vehicle at the moment. Did you buy your own code reader or use someone else's? If you bought your's do you have any recommendations?

Before spending out money, check if the brake lights work. If none of them do, you need a new brake light switch.

I was just looking at some old photos and found my last proper milestone. Oddly this was January 14th 2014 - just a few days between them.

i keep banging on.....but there r different spring sets for AWD vs FWD, and liftback vs wagon. E10-79 series is for wagons/kombis (3V5) E10-85 series is for liftbacks/hatchbacks (3V3) E10-79-012-03-22 - Superb Kombi 3V5 E10-79-012-04-22 - Superb Kombi 3V5 AWD E10-85-042-02-22 - Superb 3V3 Hatchback E10-85-042-03-22 - Superb 3V3 Hatchback AWD

I took mine to a local wheel refurbishing place. Done in satin black for £40. Had them on for over 3 years now with no chips, corrosion etc.

I can't remember the exact cause but basically the pump was knackered inside and allowing water to escape but not externally if that makes sense. Water level dropped without any loss under the car. New pump sorted it although the replacement one had some sticking issues a few months ago but seems to have righted itself!!