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The airbag light would be on if you remove an airbag.

Realized that pic was a bit small

Was there a clickable link in this email? It sounds spammy at first hearing?

The Subaru XV is a pretty well "idiot proof" car to drive with mediocre power outputs and an effective awd system. Transitioning to an Octavia vRS with vastly more low down torque applied only to the front wheels is going to require far more considered driving on public roads irrespective of what tyres are fitted. I'm pretty confidant that changing the tyres to a more recognised brand will make a noticeable improvement but if you buy summer biased tyres for winter then you will be back on here making exactly the same comments in the cold weather. Try looking in Briskoda's tyre section for some background on the benefits of appropriate all-season tyres especially if you are likely to experience some snow (Ireland so probably not). Also when your new tyres are fitted avoid the temptation to see how good they are for at least 100km to allow for them to bed in and also scrub off that slippery new surface. Read some reviews of the Davanti tyres and they are amusing to say the least. They vary from "would race on tracks with them" to "they nearly killed me" so you can assume, as with many low cost tyres, that quality control is more a concept than reality.

Rolling shot of Gandalf on a Euro Club cruise, with the remnants of a P-plate (plastic) that fell off the back of a motorbike & smashed into the grille!!

Yes, there are airbag thefts but it’s nowhere near on the scale of Cats and the cars themselves. It’s a very amateurish scaremongering communication piece.

So gone from this. To this To this. Everything sort of loose in place nothing in its final resting place, yet. Trying to get things connected and work from there. Won't be started until I'm back but, that's fine with me.

My personal view is we need to get building more pumped storage hydro schemes to capture the excess renewables. At present Coire Glas is the most advanced plan for such schemes and should be progressed urgently IMHO. There are opportunities for similar schemes in Wales and Lake District, but NIMBYism gets in the way. We have a lot of wind power in north Wales now, mainly offshore that could be harnessed by more schemes like Dinorwig or Trawsfynnedd.

So much electricity is being generated in Scotland and used or not used so not generated that it is being used at distilleries or will be at ports to power ships while in port. Other uses as well, but it is a location location location thing. Once the National Grid gets it,s act together and the UK governments then there might be less waste from the potential of renewables around the UK and in Scotland.

I skim watched the video as those issues were known to me. They did not mention the huge amounts of electricity required to produce hydrogen. This alone makes hydrogen a non-starter for me, it is far more efficient to use that electricity to power a direct replacement technology. e.g. heat pumps over a gas ,hydrogen or oil boiler. More on this from Fully Charged show (now Everything Electric Show), I may have shared this before.

Will look forward to more real-world non-fanboy commentary on EV usage with the Mini.

I will just leave this thread open just incase some person ends up buying the Corsa & wants to ask about it. I hope they get it very cheap. Corsa reset to factory settings and phones deleted etc. Epic trying to delete MyVauxhall from phone, been trying for 2 days. ........................ One more sleep till i collect the MINI. Having had a few demonstrators out i have new tyres ordered while available & the price is right. Ready to go on when required. 205/45 R 17 XL 88W Scorchio this Friday and possibly lots of rain to come, and there has been cold nights already. http://vredestein.co.uk/car-suv-tyres/products/1961-QUATRAC-PRO-EV This is quite a good vid on how they are real world. Sums them up pretty well. I am not fitting full winters unless this winter turns out to be a cracker, then they will be on 16" wheels.

Came across this video explaining the problems with adopting Hydrogen In case you can't be bothered to watch, highlights: 2019 world hydrogen production sources: Green house gas emission from generating and using per unit of heat energy: (hydrogen is worse than diesel) News to me: 10:37: Renewable fluctuations make green hydrogen production inefficient. 13:34: The fuel cell cannot be lower than a few degrees below freezing to prevent icing and degrading the cell. More energy wasted to warm up the fuel cell. 14:05: Platinum and Iridium are needed for fuel cell. A fuel cell car will have same problem as cobalt in high performance batteries (LFP don't have rare earth material problem) and catalyst converter theft in ICE cars. Despite the problems outlined by the video, I still think hydrogen has its place, but only in areas that battery absolutely cannot work and the cost of carbon emission and inefficiency is built into the cost of the hydrogen fuel.

Or that people who buy them have no concept of what a good tyre is. I certainly didn't on my first car until I nearly hit someone in torrential rain when my cheapo tyres just seemed to run out of grip. Never skimped on tyres again when buying them. Or a bit of both!

Only if the boots were greased with expanding foam.

Putting to Park never applied parking brake in my car. Only switching ignition off puts both in Park and on parking brake. If the button below parking brake is activated, car holds brakes whenever it is stopped, but I think it is not parking brake though.

At my last 90k service, it was noted that the upper timing cover was sweating/misting oil, which requires a new replacement upper timing cover assembly with new seals, as well as replacing the camshaft adjuster magnet with an updated unit. In the meantime, I changed the oil filler cap on my 220 Superb to a newer revision cap (yellow bottom) as the sweating/misting oil seemed to b concentrated around the cap. Old: 06K 103 485 A New: 06K 103 485 D After a week of use, there is no more oil misting around the oil cap. Don't know if it's because the new oil cap has fresh seals/rubber, or because it is indeed a revised version, though I couldn't pick out any design changes between the two caps.

Skoda Superb 3v Sportline

I got a good deal, but yes. It was a fair amount of cash. The independent dealer will be my first port of call. Hopefully they will sort with no issues. I'm sure they will. But thanks for your response 👍🏼

I can tick all those boxes with my vehicle. I call mine a Category S because thats what it was, the salvage yard said it was a fleet vehicle, self insured by the company and no claim was made, that it would not be recorded............. It made no odds to me because once re-registered in France any salvage markers are lost but the V5 did indeed carry no salvage marker. I got second hand airbags, a reconditioned dashboard (the airbag ruptures it) seat belt mechanisms with new pyrotechnic charges as a kit from an Eastern European guy, most of the written off vehicles were going over there to be broken, mine would have too, when Mike went and inspected it for me he saw a transporter packed full of wrecks about to leave for Poland or Romania, there were 2 or more every day from this yard alone. So the RHD vehicles go to Eastern Europe, some are repaired and return for resale, others the parts get removed, refurbished in the case of the dash and seat belts etc and then return to sellers like this guy who can undercut any of the domestic companies offering the same service, or at least he could, he was very concerned about Brexit. All bar one or two of my vehicles have always been bought this way and put back on the road and then used by me for many years ,one even got written off a second time and I retained the salvage from my insurers, repaired it again and they re-insured it!

Pity. Seeing as most of the taxi drivers round here drive Skodas I need to find one who is taking a long distance fare down to your area and get him to do the drop .... see ... optimism in full flood. :)) Not in a hurry, anyway.

Admit it, you're feeding the car novice motorcyclists 🤣

Hello everyone. Just joined the site due to having exactly the same problem as djgilson. I am a motor engineer who has given up trying to retire because the buggers keep on finding me. I specialise in classics and drive a 30 year old Audi 80 V6 as my daily. Last year the wife finally decided to give up her great old Beetle for something modern. She fancied an SUV of some sort, but I warned her that I would not tolerate a Range Rover or any of the other appallingly huge petrol guzzlers. I suggested a Yeti as I've always admired the cleverness of the design. We found a 2012 one owner 1.4 TFSI with only 32K on the clock and absolutely pristine. To my surprise I love driving it and it's been great up until recently when it developed the above fault. I gave it to a colleague who does my MOTs and has massive amounts of diagnostic equipment. He charged 240 quid for diagnostics and a new battery, thank you very much. It was still the same. I then used the good old method of common sense and replaced the fuel pressure regulator on top of the pump. That actually improved the problem but didn't cure it. I found this site tonight and when I read about the relay I realised this was almost certainly the problem. Although mine is a petrol it has two "100" relays on the board. I swapped them to check and the fault has gone! Sadly, although these relays are marked Hella, they are also made in bloody China!! I have ordered 2 from Amazon for 9 quid each, made in Germany. This is an exercise in modern diagnostics and teaches us that experience is far more practical than a code reader.

Good point, the ones I drove were the mild hybrid 1.0 e-tec versions but I forgot to mention that bit 🙄

http://bymiles.co.uk/insure/magazine/author/will-kerr http://bymiles.co.uk/insure/magazine/common-obd-error-codes-and-what-they-mean-for-your-car Big problem. Insurance companies and them selling write offs that go back on the road without a proper inspection, maybe a MOT maybe not. Then cars that are crashed and never any insurance claim made and repaired properly or not with parts from wherever. Cars that had Airbags deployed and might get a new one, or a used one, or one robbed from some poor sods cars. Seat belts that are not replaced, etc etc. Then there are the Air Bag recalls, well the not Recalled actually years after they should be. Then all the cars with out of date airbags that you will never know if they work until they do or do not. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/513183-recall-takata-airbags-april-2023 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/511789-skoda-recall-fyi

Good effort on the terminals, much improved. 👍 Don't worry about the heat jacket or coding. The latter isn't possible on non-start/stop battery vehicles, the former not really necessary on standard batteries either.

Hi, Thanks for the response. No the dealership just "checked it out" but couldn't replicate it. I intend to take it in again soon. The problem is it doesn't always do it. I'm concerned it will get worse.

So... piece of cake or almost, with a little help from a YT'er to see where the safety latch is. Stupid they didn't think of a version you don't have to fish out! On those videos the cars all have a heat-protective sleeve around them; mine didn't. Should it have, or is that only for more high-performance cars? Apart from that, I almost blew my careful preparation on the electrics side of things with a brain fart; put the battery in the wrong way 🙄 . I'd say who does that but I should have realised that I'm capable of such momentary bouts of dementia. Good thing the terminals aren't the same size (which I didn't know)! I used a Bosch C7 charger for the backup ("support") power, and the OBD power cable from Amazon linked above. Good quality that one. A sealed connector but I checked all pins and mine had no shorts between any pins, just earth on pins 4,5 and 12V on the last pin (16). 10A fuses in the aux. plug connector and in the lead coming from the charger (so good thing I didn't turn on the ignition; I measured almost 13A draw with just the rear lights on). I also discovered a designer brain fart: the central computer sits on the same fuses as the main lighting. I don't know if that computer actually has 2 parallel fuses to protect it, but it seems to me you could rather easily get a short in the light bulbs or their connectors ... Not reassuring if that happens while driving and it disconnects the main computer! Needless to say, I didn't disconnect my front lights by pulling the fuses after all. No need; I wasn't planning to turn on the car while under backup power anyway - no need. I did pull the connectors off the front optic blocks just to be certain. One last question: In one of the tutorial vids the new battery is coded via VCSD. What's the point of that? I suppose the one I put in is close enough to the battery it replaces that there shouldn't be any need for me to have this done? (couldn't get the earth connector any lower on the terminal, sorry )

I'm sorry but I'm not sure I fully understand paragaraphs 1 and 3?? But I agree with your comment in paragraph 2

No idea what the system is called, but from memory the coasting or braking behaviour can be dependant on how quickly you lift off the accelerator. Do it quickly, I reckon the car assumes you want to slow down; whereas doing it more gradually it thinks you're aiming to maintain speed. Having said that, I haven't driven an O4 DSG for about two years so may be mistaken...

I agree and disagree, I to bought a columbus to "upgrade" the Amundsen, but that was a big mistake as no matter what settings I used it had no depth or bass (hence you needed a sub) so to satisfy my curiosity I bought another Amundsen, plugged it back in and boom (literally) sound is superior to the Columbus in the Fabia, so stuck with the RNS 315, even the Mrs could tell the difference was amazing.

Most purchasers of said item would be delighted with what you are complaining about. Ah the penny has dropped, it only lasts for 15 seconds so you cant go cruising around annoying the heck out of people! Maybe change it for one of the dump valves that sounds like an owl howling or a popcorn rev limiter? All tongue in cheek by the way, I've reached pension age before growing up and spent 4 decades with straight through exhausts on 7's latterly revving to 11K with motorcycle engines, now I get wound up when I hear younger versions of myself hooning around and realise what many people must have really thought about me.

No more free copies of the manual online?! The old iOS app I had which worked great has also been nuked remotely, I have one "MySkoda" that just wheels and crashes, one called "OneApp" that is supposed to work with multiple cars but doesn't give me a way to add a 2nd (it's set to the wife's car RN) and one I immediately uninstalled because it asked unceremoniously to create a login. I thought I'd found a nicely old-fashioned brand in Skoda ... I'm reviewing that opinion in rapid tempo!

All them pipes and bulges on the OE piping aren’t just there for looks, they are all baffles and suppressors to dampen the noise that you are talking about

If it feels dangerous on a basic corner (whatever that is) at any speed then what did you expect would happen giving it plenty of gas in 2nd gear on a roundabout?

My ID.4 is a First Edition, the only spec. available when we got it. No longer available and I'm not sure where it fits relative to the latest spec.

iirc it also depends if your seatbelt is off or not.

In P the drive wheels are locked anyway. Turn off the car or open the drivers door and the e-brake applies. It is not a Hand Brake, the Parking Brake is an e-Brake. (Also an emergency brake, but really you do not want to finger it on by mistake, or have a passenger do it. Well unless you are dead anyway at the wheel or fall asleep.) 'Autohold' is not Hill hold'. Little things matter.

Yup and everything underneath is also loose and off the board. I need to order an other BCM.

It is inside the mech [url=https://flic.kr/p/2nTQUvo][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52438867976_7f74dc6ef7_4k.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2nTQUvo]Untitled[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141203253@N03/]Steve Cresswell[/url], on Flickr

So, almost a month later, I finally had a day off when it wasn't chucking down with rain. Only managed to get the rear end done (RARB, dampers & springs) because of an equipment failure halfway through, and had to wait for the wife to come home so I could use her car to nip to Halfords. Anyway, thoughts on the install so far: Doing ANYTHING on your driveway is instantly more difficult than doing the same job on a ramp. Even with axle stands at maximum height there was barely enough room to work. WD40 is absolutely no match for 5 years' worth of corrosion. Despite soaking and waiting, soaking and waiting, one of the ARB link nuts was so tight that it snapped my spanner rather than loosen. When I replaced the spanner, it was still so tight that the threaded part (which you're supposed to use a spline bit to stabilise) split before the nut budged. Tried to cut it off but whatever they're made from defeated my blades. Had to remove the ARB with one of the links still attached. Luckily I'd planned to replace them so it didn't matter. The RARB DIY videos and threads say dropping the exhaust is an option. No, it isn't. Without dropping the exhaust there is absolutely no way you'll have enough room to swap it out. I had bought an exhaust hanger removal tool specially for this, but that was useless - on mine the hangers are so close to the spare wheel well that the tool wouldn't fit around them. Fortunately, the rearmost hangers are bolted through to the boot floor, and removing the bolts was easy. That gave just enough play in the exhaust to get the ARB out, and the new one back in. Refitting the bolts was just as easy as taking them out. Because I'd replaced the ARB as well as dampers and springs, everything was undone. When I came to put it back together, rightly or wrongly, the ARB links were the last part I tightened. Annoyingly, the coils of the Eibach springs are spaced just different enough the the OEM ones that it's virtually impossible to fit any kind of bit into the threaded part to stabilise it as you tighten the nut. So, the nuts are on but I have no way of knowing if they're anywhere close to the 50Nm torque they're supposed to be. Car is in the bodyshop for a couple of days now having some pre-booked work done, but I hope to finish the front end by the end of this week...

2mm difference in the outside diameter is not significant, and the dimensions that are given should just be seen as an estimate. For rear shock absorbers I would probably go for something like Bilstein B6 24-267137 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/9350571?search=BILSTEIN Shock Absorber (24-267137) Bilstein B6 24-267137 rear shock absorbers come up on autodoc when you search for cars such as the VW Golf MK7 Alltrack. The Octavia MK3 and Golf MK7 share the same MQB platform. Bilstein B6 shock absorbers are often monotube, which is a superior and more expensive design that the far more common and cheaper twintube design. Sometimes Bilstein B6 shock absorbers are twintube, but where that is the case, there won't be so much advantage in using them over the cheaper Bilstein B4 shock absorbers. Bear in mind, that even the cheaper Bilstein B4 shock absorbers are gas filled and are as good or better than the OEM Skoda shock absorbers. It might be interesting if you just change the rear springs and shock absorbers first. Then you can assess the improvement of just doing the rear before doing the front. The rear shock absorbers are cheaper than the front shock absorbers and there's much less labour involved in doing the rears. Upper underlay for rear spring 5Q0512149A Audi TT upper underlay for rear spring 5Q0512149B (not available on autodoc) (looks similar to 5Q0512149A) Lower underlay for rear spring 5Q0512297D Stop buffer 127mm for rear shock absorbers 5Q0511357H Protective pipe for rear shock absorber 5Q0513425J

Interesting solution Chinese are using on EV ships, 700 TEU ie 20 foot container equivalent, is to just drop in a twenty foot 50 MWh container in to the Mega pack bank, container can be charger a few miles a away and then dropped in to the Motorway services and continue to be trickle charged but if get low slot in a fully charged 50 MWh TEU pack as with this Chinese 10,000 ship running up and down the Yellow river, can I call it that, should be Yangtze, or correctly 长江;.

There it is....

Interesting comments about the mpg. Suspect we will average low 30’s in the TSI. Few more photos after full paint correction. The more I look at it the more I love the proportions of the Kodiaq, and it’s relatively understated design and looks. I think it will age well, unlike some of the SUV’s out there. I have a flat bottomed steering wheel coming, as per the Sportline, with the DSG shift paddles, so will fit that later this week. Also a glass screen protector for the Columbus unit.

Use the Pro. I would avoid paying extra for the ultimate. One touch apps for long coding are very risky and results can be uncertain and difficult to unwind. Long coding is much more controllable.

The yellow wire continues into the cabin, changing to yellow/green at some point, and ends up at pin 22 of the 36-way connector at the instrument cluster. The red wire should go to earth. When pad is thick enough, these are connected, so shorting is the right thing to do. Earth the wire going into the 36-way, to see if that works. If not, are you 100% sure the warning light is for pad thickness, not e.g. brake fluid level?

Bled the brakes and Flushed the coolant ahead of going away. Waiting on some sealant to dry. Brake fluid was old. All new stuff through it. Pedals firm and so far no leaks. Old fluid was not great. New stuffs a lot better. Just generic dot 4. Have an eezibleed but just bled it the normal way. Coolant looked perfectly fine but was old. So out it goes. Flushed it with a radiator flushed then 2 runs of deionised water. Refilled with 50/50 mix of coolant and water. That and another new serpentine belt is all I've done to it since. I was at JPCCNI last Sunday in Belfast. In on a reserve. So I got in, but was outside. Had to be up there between 8 and 9. Show didn't start to 11. More or less another dubshed situation where you're there for the whole thing. Weather stayed fairly dry. It was running a bit rough just as I was leaving and I wasn't sure if I should go, but it cleared up after a few miles and I went on. Think I may have fouled the plugs a bit as I was starting it and stopping it moving in and out of the garage. It got a little bit of attention surprisingly. Some pics of it came up online from other people too. They've all got the respective persons watermarks on them. Got them all from Facebook under the mentions for the event. Nice to see people cared about em. Talking to some very nice people at the event too. Opened it up, let people poke around it, etc. Really doesn't bother me having people looking in and around it. And it seemed that was not the general consensus of the event. Probably because I'm roughly a grand into this and some of the cars there could have easily had over 100k spent on them. Kinda glad it's in the state it is because I'm not worried about driving it, but it still seems to turn heads more than you'd expect considering. Retrorides is on this Friday coming. Intentions are to go dublin-holyhead early and take my time over the road. I trust it enough to get me there, mostly. But at the same time I don't want to be stressing it trying to get there on time. Aside from collecting a few more spares this shouldn't need anything more done to it.

Oh wow, talk about throwback - I did not understand why it was orange when I was about 6

Christ, that's a horror show! It sounds like two skeletons shagging in a dustbin. I think it may be the cam chain, beware of imminent disaster if it's the 1.2 petrol engine.