Leaderboard

I took it to the indy I found in the end (Autotechz in Stapleford if anybody is in Nottingham and looking for a specialist). I could have saved some money by taking it to a non-specialist garage, but I'm really pleased that I did now because I got an excellent service. I thought it would just be an interim oil change but they did a proper inspection of the car, and cleared some fault codes from previous repairs. He even told me what had been replaced by the garage that I bought it from, so I knew he'd literally checked the whole car over. And he brought to my attention the potential issue with the silicone bag in the coolant bottle, which I wouldn't have been aware of unless it burst. I got that fixed at a later date and he showed me the old bottle that he'd removed. The guy spent around 15 minutes talking to me about Skodas and sharing his knowledge and anecdotes. It was a great experience and worth the extra money over a general back-street garage. I intend to keep the car for as long as possible so to have a garage that you trust to look after your car for the next x years is worth a little extra I think. Just to say thanks to everyone who has chipped in on this post. Much appreciated!

I loved Sugar Puffs as a kid, used to eat them out of the box like sweets (well they were sort of a super sweet pop corn and kids are 99% fuelled by sugar )

A few more from Calke Abbey........

It does, otherwise D6 and D7 wouldn't appear in the scan. They aren't, as they never existed for the MK3 Octavia. Ask VAG 🤣 These descriptions are generally created by the scan tool manufactures as they don't exist in ODIS (VAG tool). Ross-tech must have spotted that whatever byte 03, bit 2 does, it was only set on cars with LED headlights and labeled it as such. I expect it does... Based on the wiring diagram and leuchte channels, the BCM (09) will be in charge of turning them on/off. It's most likely channels 7 and 8 which are responsible for low beams. However, the 'multifunction' module (4B) is charge of things like headlight leveling and possibly AFS so there is a chance automass doesn't have self-leveling at the moment. I hope that helps explain my though process, feel free to ask if anything is unclear Most likely, just click start and the OK/acknowledge - I have zero idea how OBDeleven will present this. Ross-tech state the following: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_MQB_Headlight_Regulation Please double check you're in module 4B before you hit basic settings. In an ideal world, you then need to perform basic settings on a flat, level surface, whilst meeting these requirements: Edit: Turns out there is even a video for OBDeleven, just remember it's 4B not 55:

Tapioca disaster in Cardiff (I think it was actually Barry but there about), 1500 tonnes of Tapioca, along with a cargo of wood, wood caught fire and started to cook the tapioca. 7 food disaster including the tapioca one, ships was distorted after this and only fit for scrap I gather..... https://allthatsinteresting.com/deadly-food-disasters

I think these pics of mine from last year when I put my rear dash cam in shows the issue. The two rubber conduits at the top of the tailgate already have cables, rear washer pipes & other gubbins inside them so getting extra cables through them is not easy. I found the r/h side easier to route my dash cable through. The L/H side was already quite tight & the dash cam cable interfered with the DAB signal. When I come to do the rear view camera on mine I will have the same issue as well as finding a route through the front to back of the car.

Same. And Frosties, Coco Pops or whatever was sweet

Yes I also have the issue with the sound on calls, the person on the other end sounds like they are masking their voice to make it sound deeper. I haven't actually been able to get in to the car to do any more testing but am thinking of taking it back to the dealer. If I do I will post any feedback here. I hope you get somewhere with your local dealer!

Which is still 20-30p less than the competition 🤔

I'd like to point out Tesla as an exception to this. Their rates are currently pretty reasonable even for non-Tesla owners. I've suspected from the start that Charge UK "trade association" is a cartel for fixing charging prices, but I'm beginning to believe it now. I'm voting with my feet on this one and using Tesla chargers whenever possible. Tomorrow I'm charging at Banbury using Tesla, ignoring the Osprey chargers next door and the Instavolt hub I'll pass to get to the Superchargers.

I purchased that. It has a lot of information. 3 euros, a great price. Thanks for the tip @Carlston

Yup, I think we have to remember factors like convenience, time, assurance (confidence) when considering price. The fact that this forum is going to be mostly "knowledgeable enthusiasts" may skew that, but I think its great that there's lots of helpful info here that can help when weighing up options. My car is a family workhorse, not really a "pride and joy", so I am willing to pay extra for convenience and assurance for service and repairs (I have a great relationship with my independent - a free courtesy car can be a lifesaver for unexpected repairs). For "routine" stuff you can find competition with tyre replacement and MOTs. Things like battery or cabin filter or engine air filter replacement is easy DIY. Others say other repairs are easy but I don't have driveway, [decent] jack, axlestands, or [car] tools so that is limiting. Also after passing its MOT I like to treat it with a jetwash and a full tank of premium petrol lol.

Correct, price cap is expected to drop slightly in Q4: https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/utilities/what-are-the-price-cap-unit-rates-/#unitrates You'd probably be looking at 27p/kWh from 1st October. Your current 29.97p/kWh is the current price cap. It must have gone down back in July. Before then it was around 34p/kWh. If you go with Octopus, you can change your DD payment at any time online. (I can provide referral code ) I was on 35p/kWh for day rate for a few days at end of June before dropping down to 31p/kWh in July. I expect there will be a tiny drop in October. It's no secret the business electricity rates are also dropping, but it hasn't been passed on to us by rapid charger network operators. Most are still charging double or more what they would have to pay per kWh. Once again, those who don't have (driveway) gets shafted.

Managed to miss the Red Arrows today, but did spot the Lancaster over Calke Abbey 👍

I'm afraid it's another example of "Why have a single button when half a dozen steps in the infotainment system will be better, won't it?". The process is:- CAR Settings - scroll down to Instrument Cluster - scroll down to Rest trip recorder in instrument display - confirm The trip meter is often over-laid in the virtual cockpit by rear seat belt warnings or cruise control/ speed limiter display. When it is displayed it is on the same level as the main odometer but on the left hand side. I found this on You Tube which shows an alternate method using the steering wheel controls ... Trip Reset I also found this one useful for customising what is displayed. You can have G-meters, altitude, range, consumption, etc. Virtual Cockpit You can learn more from YouTube than you can from the manual.

Sounds like the series resistor block has melted, I believe it is a common failure although I thought it was not in the circuit on the highest fan speed.

Hi, I managed to sort the majority of my issue by replacing the crankshaft oil seal as described above. Followed a YouTube tutorial and replaced the seal. Took a good few hours due to getting the wrong seal initially. I purchased a crank shaft pulley tool from ebay and cut the handle down to size as I was working on axel stands. The official vw tool is somewhat expensive and managed to find a 3rd party equivalent for around £20. I'm approx 2000miles in after doing the work and all seems to be OK from the oil seal at the moment. I still have a very minor leak but I suspect that's from elsewhere. If I were to do it again, I would replace the pulley while I'm at it for peace of mind.

Did you take off the engine cover & check around the injectors?

To echo @Breezy_Pete, please ignore viscosity completely, it's effectively meaningless. As long as the oil meets the spec. 505.01 or 507 then it's fine.

I didn’t get that opportunity. What arrived was a pre-mixed “all-in-one Skoda beige leather dye”, which, I’m guessing, was mixed by a colour blind person without a colour reference in room with blackout blinds….

As long as it explicitly meets the 505 01 spec, viscosity is completely up to you.

Sorry to have to say this to you, but this is a classic case of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing. You really don't have a clue as to what you did last time when you played around with the coding, and you might well have made things worse. Now you're thinking about going back into the coding again to try and rectify what you did, but you don't truthfully know what you did, so how do you know that you can undo what you did and or what the original coding was. This is utter and complete madness in my view, and you do seriously risk doing serious damage. Please, I beg you, leave it alone, you have been given perfectly sound advice so far with no risk of damage to your car, so please do yourself a favour and book it into a Škoda specialist who will be able to recode it back to the original, and then they can work from there. If you do a Google search, there are loads of Skoda repair centres in the London area. Whenever doing anything that can screw your car up like coding the ECU's, the golden rule is to double-check what you're doing is correct, and also to write down what the codes were before you change anything so in the case of things going wrong, you can go back and input the old code again, so you can be returned to the position you were in before.

Hello Dave, and welcome to Skoda ownership Gaz

Crude oil up 6 pence per litre in the last 3 months which is now filtering through to the pumps. Inflation going to blip in September even the UK Chancellor admits. Saudi wants to keep the price up and Brent is nearly $90 a barrel, up from about $77 a barrel to $89 with the autumn/winter season approaching.

I love toffee pop corn, which is really just another form of sugar puffs I expect.

So they all say that the alternator is fine, and yet you still get a flat battery, so something is clearly not right, the only way to eliminate the charger is completely unplug it each time you leave the car, if you are still getting a flat battery, then you must have the entire electrical system checked out, and you might have to be without your car for a few days while they track down the problem. In one of those videos I sent you, it took a few days to discover what was causing the problem and he left the car running for a whole day before the fault showed up. Like I said before, things have got really complicated these last few years and they will get even more complicated when we all drive EV's in the future because there is so much electronics and networking in those cars and that is going to be one massive steep learning curve for the garages.

I've never used Carista but this is a pretty common occurrence as it'll happen after every firmware update. It might be worth contacting their support to see if it can be cleared with their tool. That being said, it has zero impact on anything so it's completely safe to ignore

Ok I think I found it, just have to figure out where the vibrations and rattling are coming from inside the car.

There is a motor in a crate to replace an engine. I will not bother pulling it off as that usually results in going, wish i had not done that and going to get rubber bungs from a dealership. (I watched the dude in Norway. i at least learned from driving BMW,s that you pull the bonnet lever twice to open the bonnet.) Strange as he must have driven BMW,s. There will be no frunk in the new MINI,s. You can not put 2 pints in a 1 pint container. ^^^^ Bright guy, maybe brilliant. But take the rear floor in the boot, you have choices, you can even take that floor out and the other bit below that that covers the tool storage area. Thank goodness the design was not left to him. You might even take 2 passengers 2 an airport with luggage with the floor and parcel self removed and one seat back dropped. Head for thinking and feet for dancing, and use your brain before moving your mouth maybe. The Fuel Filler Hatch & Charger port is where it is because the car / body is for a Petrol Engine. They used the same quarter panel and put a different flap on. Perfect position on a Right Hand Drive car. Maybe not for the Left Hand drive, but such is life / design. Done to a price point for 'Much Cheapness' with them in the US of A.

In my experience, so far, no. Octopus webpage gives you a recommended number and just accepts whatever number I've put in. During most expensive winter, there were 5% cashback by Santandar for 2 months, so I adjusted DD to overpaid to get max cashback. Then adjusted it all the way back down to £20 per month, all changes were accepted without fuss. That's correct. I had typed about it initially, but thought I can't post good things about Tesla in almost every post. But yes, I try to stick to using their chargers. Currently they are 36-40p/kWh off-peak across their locations. Peak is typically 4-8pm. Some locations have very low 0-4am. The price changes regularly, almost like petrol prices, so unfortunately zap-map or similar doesn't display most up to date prices. You can get VAT receipt from the app, or through a QR code on the new V4 screens if paid using contactless. But without 30-day rolling membership or paying via contactless will mean more expensive at ~50p/kWh for same off-peak period. They say they use 100% renewable electricity: https://www.tesla.com/en_gb/impact/product#:~:text=99.95% Uptime%2C-,100% Renewable,charging network in the world. I believe wood chip fired power station are currently classed as renewable.

You can drop the DD anytime with Eon Next if they let you and do not say it is too much and then you have to phone them and tell them to do what you want not what their computers say. But then like the last time I increased my DD the system is having a brain fart. Does Octopus not have brain farts? I think of Richard as D!ck at times when he knows the price of everything and not always that accurately. He seems to do ok. Waiting on his reply about the Drop in the cost of domestic electricity is in the future but certainly not now. I am giving the Fixed Tariff offers a miss. I have no smart meter and an getting no smart meter. As to home tariff, 3 pin charger from now or maybe lower from October. Maybe more from January is, 10 kWh for maybe £2.99. 3.5 miles to the kWh. 35 miles. 70 miles for under £6. All the man maths needed for many to understand if comparing petrol / diesel with electric. No solar, no wall box but can get off the road and to a socket.

I also have a rear cam and the boot cam both go through the right tailgate rubber. What I did was Squash is smaller than feed it through

They are just diesels, they run on any old crap. Dervs, heavy oil, go go juice. You are not driving a performance diesel with a Skoda TDI. It is just you can not run the TDI,s on WVO etc.

...maybe the rubber washers that fall off when the door trim clips break too. Or come in a pack with the replacements?

@automass You said in an earlier post that you suspect the charger because the dashcam switches off when the stop-start cuts in. When this happens, dashcam is still working while the engine is off, right? But it switches off when the engine starts is just highlighting a completely unrelated problem, and this is solely to do with your dashcam. When the engines starts, the starter motor is drawing several hundreds of amps from the battery, causing a momentary volt drop which the dashcam cannot accept and switches off. How old is the dashcam? I suspect that the internal battery, like the one in the photo has failed due to age, or it has a super capacitor to store power and has failed, or, you also said that it was only a cheap dashcam, so that means that it has neither of these inside to provide enough power to keep it running when the battery voltage drops, as it does when the starting the car up. If it is the latter, then it has always done this, but you have never really noticed until now and because the car not starting is a massive problem to you, that your mind is looking for something to blame and has latched onto the dashcam and the charger which is providing the 5v power supply as being linked and the cause. When in reality they are a symptom of another problem exasperated by the low battery voltage while starting the car. I got one of these 12v to 5v convertors that needs to be hardwired to a circuit that is only active while the ignition is on, so that means I have zero things left plugged into my 12v sockets which on Skoda's are alive 24/7, so when I stop the car and leave it, my dashcam and my TomTom satnav are automatically switched off, and cannot flatten the battery/

If they are giving mixed messages then they have not caught up on the stuff VW / Skoda UK started putting out from July 2023. Maybe read the many threads on here about them dropping the @5 years in the UK for Cam Belt replacements. Maybe avoid places where the Service Desk Staff can not actually get their info from the Master Tech, or leave you having to 'Call a friend or ask on social media. If you get a 1.0 TSI done it is not as expensive as a 1.5 TSI ACT which might get you quotes from £850 - £1,150. (There are places that have even messed up doing 1.0 TSI,s. As seen in the Fabia Mk3 section. Simple enough with the looking tool and follow the correct procedure.) Best you ask at where you might go to have the cam belt changed, see what they quote, if they have the equipment and the knowledge to do it. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510175-karoq-cam-belt-change-start-saving-now/page/8

@Baggins Is there a higher cetane showing on a BP Ultimate diesel pump compared to the BP Diesel pump, and do BP tell you there is a higher cetane or just better cleaning properties? http://bp.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/products-and-services/bp-ultimate-fuels/bp-ultimate-diesel-with-active-technology.html ....................................... http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/452428-the-fuel-debate-to-end-all-fuel-debate @Bensupreme I know nothing about the Diesels and never used Premiums other than the odd tank to try until i did use it in in my 17 year old Diesel and the detergents have certainly made it smoke less and stink less and made it feel smoother. It only does 25 mpg-28 mpg though and hardly any miles other than for towing so the 11 pence or so a litre difference does not matter. Never felt differences with new-ish diesels, even performance ones. With Super Unleaded from Tesco (99 ron min) or Sainsbury (97 ron min) that can be the same price or cheaper than 95 unleaded from the Big Brand non Supermarket filling stations. (Texaco @ a Tesco Express is 97 ron min, but as with all of them Minimum can mean that the delivery can be of a higher octane.) As to Super Unleaded & E5, i have used it since day one in cars / engines that need it or benefit from it. Not for the detergents just for the Octane, and that was Tesco Momentum 99 when Shell was 98 ron before going back to 97 from being 98, then back to 99. It is the same base fuel imported in partnership with Greenergy that produce Momentum, and some of ESSO,s fuels. & for others. As it is the E5 is not the same around the UK for ethanol content. With the petrols i have had i want the Ethanol content, actually the more the merrier as long as the octane is higher, but bi care not a bit about detergents with a good clean engine getting used hard regularly. 388380a097b04fe693a8c27db8bb4974 (1).pdf 6ca06d648b9541e78fa838fece4a1a23 (1).pdf

Apologies - I fixed it!

Unfortunately it's arrival took me somewhat by surprise, so my Lumix TZ70 was still configured for photographing (relatively) fast moving birds.

Calke Abbey 👍

I purchased that decoder for my car, it's pretty comprehensive. Good value for 3euro.

You may also need to inform insurance if going for a different tyre size to stock. Upping to 235 may fit this requirement so worth asking. A narrower wheel will hold the tyre in a way that offers more rubber to the kerb. The standard 7.5 wide rims with 225 should be a good fit without giving you much risk of rim damage. Also worth looking around at different tyres as shape and size differs between brand and model. I find Goodyear to have reasonable time protection.

Yes it states a cetane of 51, which to me is standard diesel, not premium like BP ultimate. It does state it has cleaners in though.

It sounds more like a piston seized than the pads grabbing on the slides, whilst I would try to free it off on my own vehicle I would never do so with a customers car for the reasons eloquently described by Aperture S. And its not just a roadside thing either, most garages would not take the risk of freeing off a stuck (usually corroded) piston when they can have an easier life, make more money and not expose themselves to charges of culpable negligence were the worst to happen by fitting a new or reconditioned caliper. I once spun across the road between 2 oncoming vehicles in my Westfield due to a partially seized caliper that I was aware of and was not causing me any problems, the force reactions were very different that day in a full on emergency stop than they were on controlled braking even during my then normal spirited driving.

Below, on the link you can see how it's done on Bolero (MEN3) MMI and from the manu you can find out what is your current version. Maybe it works also for the Amudsen, but I dunno. Regarding the newest availalbe version one I used OBD11, although many people online said it isn't so accurate and reliable. From my amateur experience isn't 100% up-to-date, but sufficent for my needs. ODB11 shows you the current and the newest available version for all modules in your car. For the 5F module, i.e., multimedia it shows 1790, the version which I use, where acutally there is also a 1798 version available (shared by members of this portal).

I mean, if he unstuck it and allowed you to drive off, and you had to hit the brakes hard and the piston didnt push back out, your uneven brakes could possibly cause you to spin out, first thing you would do is blame him. The other aspect is, its illegal to drive a car that you know is unroadworthy, whether the brakes are unstuck temporarily or not, its not road worthy. You are left with 2 options that cover both the safe and legal aspect: -Call a mobile mechanic -Get it recovered to a garage That is all assuming it is just a stuck piston and not something else like worn pads to the point the back plate is binding in the carrier, cracked disc, warped disc, debris stuck behind pad/carrier. There are lots of options for what it could be.

OK, but there is noway that the charger is having any effect on the start/stop system, the charger and the power socket is not even connected to the cars network system, it purely connected to the battery via a fuse, so you can completely wipe any thought that is having an effect from your mind. But you do need to unplug it when you leave the car, to stop it draining the battery.

A couple from yesterday's visit to Attenborough nature reserve........

Do you want to do that post again? You tried to post images using an unrecognized format so the board won't show them, they need to be in jpg usually to display properly