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Why RTFM when you can go on Brisky and get twenty different people's interpretation of what it says @toot only Skoda I had with no alarm button on the B pillar is a MkI Fabia though I think you could disable it with the key fob or it might have been VagCom / VCDS but never had cause to so I'm not 100% now. Only used the button once on a ferry from Harwich to Esbjerg in SWMBO's Yeti. No idea if it worked or not as I was about four decks above the car.

If everyone read and understood the manual (assuming it was comprehensive), there wouldn't be a Brisky

Safelock does lock you or a passenger in the car with no means of escape and I have yet to find a way to disable it and especially the annoying and incomprehensible message that comes up saying it is activated. Mine does not have keyless and will not lock when I get out unless I press the remote locking button on the keyfob, at home the car is never locked, one time I got in after loading stuff from a DIY store and realised I did not have the keys to put in the ignition, at that second the doors locked and I could not get out using any door handle or window, also the alarm went off. There were lots of people around so other than the embarrassment of the spectacle I had no real worries so I composed myself and went back over my footsteps, where could the keys be? (they were not in my pockets) and secondly whay had the car locked? Door lock switch not working? That was secondary to being able to get out and find the keys, I crawled in the back to look if they had fallen out when loading but they were not there, eventually I found them under the drivers seat, I still cant be sure of how the vehicle locked that one time only, door lock switches function as they should, maybe that one time the drivers door one didnt, maybe the keys fell and my foot or something pressed the lock button. What I do know from experience of being locked in and having had to release children and babies locked in other VAG vehicles at filling stations is that all VAG vehicles since the last century have deadlocks and when they are locked they are locked the inside door handles are inoperative, if you smash a window you have to pull the occupant through it or exit yourself through it.

Thats my superb 2019 model pre facelift...4x4 190 hp, dsg 7 speed dq381 Laurin and klement combi model, almoust all options, without panoramic . Changes made it : sport line 280 hp front brakes rotors brembo performamce 345mm, all bulbs led.

Ye if it was the sun, the middle bit would be dark aswell. What about a nodding dog placed over it 🙂.

Lovely evening earlier..........

Mine on the last 2 vehicles took up all the space in the then and now reduced capacity gloveboxes, cutting out and throwing away all the foreign language sections of the radio manual alone doubled the available glovebox space. Still not enough to make me RTFM though 😒 I was proved wrong on this forum when I said that my fuel filler cap did not have a notch to hold it away from the bodywork on the filler flap, had I RTFM'd then I would have denied myself a pleasant surprise and helping of humble pie!

The lightest rims 15 INCHES Part number Weight Size Center centering Lochkreis 8L0 601 025 E here. 5.7 kg 6J x 15H2 ET38 57,0 mm 5 x 100 8L0 601 025 M here. 5.7 kg 6J x 15H2 ET38 57,0 mm 5 x 100 8D0 601 025 D here. 5.5 kg 6J x 15H2 ET45 57,0 mm 5 x 112 8D0 601 025 M here. 6.6 kg 6J x 15H2 ET45 57,0 mm 5 x 112 4B0 601 025 N here. 5.7 kg 6J x 15H2 ET45 57,0 mm 5 x 112 8L0 601 025 D here. 5.7 kg 6J x 15H2 ET38 57,0 mm 5 x 100 4B0 601 025 A here. 5.7 kg 6J x 15H2 ET45 57,0 mm 5 x 112 4B0 601 025 J here. 5.7 kg 6J x 15H2 ET45 57,0 mm 5 x 112 16 INCHES Part number Weight Size Center centering Lochkreis 4D0 601 025 M here. 6.1 kg 7J x 16H2 ET42 57,0 mm 5 x 112 8W0 601 025 EF here. 7.0 kg 7J x 16H2 ET35 66,5 mm 5 x 112 8W0 601 025 here. 6.9 kg 7J x 16H2 ET35 66,5 mm 5 x 112 4D0 601 025 AA here. 6.1 kg 7J x 16H2 ET42 57,0 mm 5 x 112 17 INCH Part number Weight Size Center centering Lochkreis 8W0 601 025 C here. 8.7 kg 7,5J x 17H2 ET38 66,5 mm 5 x 112 8S0 601 025 here. 8.9 kg 8J x 17H2 ET47 57,0 mm 5 x 112 8W0 601 025 YES here. 8.5 kg 7,5J x 17H2 ET29 66,5 mm 5 x 112 4K0 071 497 here. 8.8 kg 7,5J x 17H2 ET36 66,5 mm 5 x 112 8J0 601 025 G here. 8.9 kg 7J x 17H2 ET47 57,0 mm 5 x 112 8D0 601 025 R here. 8.7 kg 7,5J x 17H2 ET43 57,0 mm 5 x 112 8L0 601 025 AC here. 8.7 kg 7J x 17H2 ET38 57,0 mm 5 x 100 8E0 601 025 AS here. 8.9 kg 7,5J x 17H2 ET45 57,0 mm 5 x 112 8N0 601 025 H here. 8.7 kg 7,5J x 17H2 ET32 57,0 mm 5 x 100 8E9 071 492 here. 8.4 kg 7,5J x 17H2 ET36 57,0 mm 5 x 112 18 INCHES Part number Weight Size Center centering Lochkreis 82A 601 025 AN here. 10.0 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET46 57,0 mm 5 x 100 5G0 601 025 CF here. 7.6 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET49 57,0 mm 5 x 112 5G0 601 025 UK here. 10.4 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET49 57,0 mm 5 x 112 5G0 601 025 AG here. 10.6 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET49 57,0 mm 5 x 112 5G0 071 498 A here. 10.6 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET51 57,0 mm 5 x 112 5G0 071 498 A here. 10.6 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET51 57,0 mm 5 x 112 5G0 601 025 DH here. 10.8 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET51 57,0 mm 5 x 112 5G0 601 025 G here. 10.7 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET49 57,0 mm 5 x 112 8N0 071 498 here. 10.8 kg 8J x 18H2 ET33 57,0 mm 5 x 100 7N0 601 025 P here. 10.8 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET35 57,0 mm 5 x 112 3AA 601 025 S here. 10.6 kg 8J x 18H2 ET40 57,0 mm 5 x 112 5H0 601 025 H here. 9.3 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET51 57,0 mm 5 x 112 1K0 601 025 BA here. 10.1 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET51 57,0 mm 5 x 112 1J0 601 025 AM here. 9.9 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET38 57,0 mm 5 x 100 1K0 601 025 AD here. 10.6 kg 7,5J x 18H2 ET51 57,0 mm 5 x 112 https://www.original-felgen.com/gewicht

I've never heard of a 6V engine that DIDN'T eat its exhaust valves, you don't need to replace the sprocket bolt but most people on this forum operate using the precautionary principle because they're old and mad so you might get conflicting advice!

@J.R.The button on the door pillar was for 'Disabling the alarm' for people / animals left in a one click locked car, (also for on a transporter or ferry.) or a Double Click dead lock car that even with the window smashed the person can not open the doors from the reaching in and using the handle. Maybe @Leeor someone else can confirm that if they were / are all the same.

You can double click the key fob on a Mk2 Fabia vRS and lock the cars so that the doors can not be opened from inside and the alarm is set and gets set off by the occupant. I did it first by mistake and was inside a building and a bit Mutt & Jeff. The passenger was not amused. Obviously i did it on purpose occasionally after that.

You are leaving a lot to trust in your "expectations" if you know that the car locks with your son in it then surely as a responsable parent you would have done a test to see if he could get out and made sure he was aware of how, I definitely would not trust to my "expectations" or even what the manual said in that instance, I would want to see it with my own eyes. Sadly there have been a few cases of people dying in deadlocked VAG vehicles, one was a woman (I think) returning home after a boozy night out who decided to sleep in the car so as not to disturb her partner, before you ask I cant recall the details of how the vehicle was unlocked or where the keys were, I don't think even the Coroner got a satisfactory answer but I deduced it was probably a faulty door open switch or the keys left outside.

Just incase anyone else had this problem, I decided to take the gearbox, the thrust bearing was shot and grinding down the clutch fingers. Replaced clutch and flywheel, all good now.

@JR RS Soooooo shiny! What kind of stickers did you put on your fuel flap? I assume, they're funny ones...

Mine had B6 on the back (only) for a few weeks as the garage didn't have time to do all 4. I wouldn't recommend it - feels a bit weird to have half the car stiffened up and half bouncing around. I've now had the B6 all round for about 6 months and very pleased overall - a little firm but so much more controlled especially on undulating twisty roads.

As I’ve said before, I am in Essex BUT I live in very rural Essex where the nearest gritted road is approx 2 miles from my house. Yes, Essex doesn’t get the snow that say Scotland gets BUT snow is snow and ice is ice and we get our fair share. I’ve just never felt the need to go to the trouble of swapping my wheels/tyres for a handful (if that) of days each winter. Not knocking those who do, just saying it’s not for me.

Get fluid tested if it hasn't been changed since new, replace if required. Check servo operation, bleed brakes, consider new pads if badly worn. All a lot cheaper than going up in size.

Filters don’t get changed at main dealers I believe. Find an Indi to do it.

Or Tyres if you want to stop quicker. Thanks. AG Falco

OEM one's are more than adequate. It's less than 140bhp when mapped 😁 Save your money for better things. Like servicing.

The Porsche charger which he told us he got a discount on was not that price in a previous video. I expect the Food Reviewer who is a commercial driver and pretty much one hand on the wheel is going to find that like many others if they done want you they quote ridiculous prices. He is a driver for gain or reward. Not Social, domestic or pleasure. What is all the i will not name the company crap you can read it in the newspapers? Very Farage! This Expensive to buy EV stuff even for his daughter really a nonsense or to rent. A 2nd hand crash in value according to him.

I clamp my negative clip onto the engine lift bracket on the top of the engine👍

@craigdaddy why report about bad opinion without mention which exact bulbs were used? shared opinion must be useful for other BS members -> Trunk -> Glovebox

feel like I'm missing something here and I'm a complete idiot haha

BUT it does pay not to throw out those front car mats. I keep the old ones in boot, for when I get a bit of snow. Older blokes ( and BMW drivers, take head, BMW folks need string to tie to bumper ). As BMW drivers do not rate highly on my list of brain bots, I'll explain. Tie string to old mat, then tie to a bit of car. place in front of rear wheels, and drive of. Once you get somewhere, you can stop and drive off, retrieve mats and put in boot.

I thought it was coming from gear, but they said it is not related to gear. it could be driver shfat or brake, bearnign or something.

In my experience those who admit madness usually aren't, those who don't usually are. A sort of Catch 22 test if you like...

I can give you the OE part numbers for the various sealants which will allow cross-reference to aftermarket if you like? What torque plus angle are you aiming to do the crank bolt to? Spec changed at some point, if you follow the later suggestion with a reused bolt, it would be a very bold move.

I have gone for the solution proposed by my friend swapping the red/brown with the blue/black on the black block connector as in picture above and it's working fine now. Maybe someone in the same situation might find it useful. Cheers

Why are you asking me? I don't even know what Safelock is. Iits your car, its you who is happy to lock his son in there using your belief, acquaint yourself with your own vehicle before you end up in an undesirable situation. My only advice is not to take the words of others, myself included or what the manual says, see it yourself with your own eyes and try to replicate possible scenarios like unlocking the car, opening the rear hatch or passenger door then leaving the keys just inside and closing the door again, see what happens after a couple of minutes. Try to imagine what an unknowing passenger might do or someone you give your keys to to get something out of the car.

@Graham ButcherThe thing is that is about different class / level or cars, different tech from the lower priced, smaller sized basic cars that had no sliding sunroofs, electric folding mirrors etc. The same thing happens with EV,s different generations of Clean Sheet cars like Leaf or Zoe or cars that come as ICE vehicles and hybrid, phev, BEV. Price points and tech which is more or less basic.

There is an occupancy sensor in the passenger, surely as a minimum the vehicle should lock but not deadlock if that is showing a presence? Maybe 2 clicks to deadlock and alarm if you are carrying a shopping bag on the seat or the sensor is faulty Not much help for children in the rear though.

You've never heard of Skoda's Safelock? Seems to be standard across VAG cars: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=86&t=1773347 Mr Paul-G has same level of outlook and deduction skill as you, see the conclusion he came to: https://www.myaudiq5.com/threads/manually-open-doors-from-inside-on-power-failure.41960/

@Flokis If you have an official VCDS cable you will be able to update to the latest software as mentioned by J.R however if you're using a knock-off cheap version you'll get no help on these pages.

the last letter is a revision number. with each iteration ( update /design change) VAG increase the last letter . the first change would have been "A" then "b" etc It should fit and work but there is no way of knowing what is changed each time.

My bad, I thought that you are the colleague with the Superb. Go for it and ignore my last comment.

He seems keen on spending money on doing the car up to make it mint, always have Briskoda in mind and would always recommend it 👍

Probably something like this https://kinergo.eu/product/dsg-7-03-dsg-7-dq200-repair-kit/

Power and willingness restored! In case the link to the picture of the timing marks breaks at some time in the future, here is one I prepared a short time ago. The mark on the sprocket was originally a tiny rectangular dint, roughly the size of the light mark. Notice that it had originally been picked out in BLACK! One could just about see it with a mirror from above if one knew it was there somewhere. The triangle mark on the tool (now blobbed white) was hidden by the removal knob, now removed itself. Once again, many thanks to those who responded.

I'm not going to have a pop, and until 4 years ago took same view Then I discovered that the tyres the car came with were skittish on colder mornings when damp, even when was nearer +6c. And pulling out of side turnings on cold wet days managed to spin the wheels (on a 1 litre with DSG in normal mode). My commute was partly along a country A road that suffered muddy field run off. Bought set of winter tyres, then discovered didn't need to drive accordingly, as bit of frost, or cold rain, didn't trouble them and could drive like a dry summers day. And the handful of days we had snow in 4 years, turned out to be brilliant, passing cars stranded all over the place. Although did shock myself glancing at speedo on a winding B road when I found I was doing 45mph on few inches of snow. The snow had killed any noise, and car tracked like any other day. Nowadays having found they are safer in cold rain (which occurs for months in UK), so I am a convert, can't tell difference between about 11c and 20c, but far superior below +10c, even if don't get any snow. Might be in south of country but have some hills nearby around Bath and Mendips, and knowing can have a freak snowstorm and can drive home is reassuring. Just about to switch the wheels, and put winters back on, my car has now done 53,000 miles, is 5.2 years old, still using the 4 original summer tyres, and the winters all have 6-7mm of tread. So by switching wheels around to even out wear looks like will be 70k+ miles before I next need tyres, so compared to those who buy 2 new tyres every 20-25k miles has worked out cheaper. Safer and Cheaper so what's not to like

I’ve been driving for over 30 years and have NEVER used winter tyres in the winter, and thus far I’ve never even been close to having a snow/ice related incident, leads me to believe it’s a bit of a marketing ploy which many people fall for. Granted, if I lived in Iceland or Canada I’d probably consider it, but here in the UK we might get a few inches at worst…..nothing a standard tyre can’t handle (provided you drive accordingly). Im sure the winter wheel/tyre fans will have a pop at me and that’s fine, but in my opinion they are not needed (not for me anyway). If you are concerned just go for an all weather tyre, covers all bases 👍

We went up to the Smoke today (East Sheen to be precise) to see relatives. Decided to spend a glorious afternoon at Richmond Park on the way back. Saw lots of deer 😎 including this one which was right by my car: Some pillock decided to offer it some grass. Like the grass that was immediately all around it 🙄 I was willing it to kick or skewer him, but sadly it was better behaved than the idiot humans around it. Quite a number enjoying the shade: And I quite liked this later afternoon photo. Mrs Gaz very pleased at her long legs (!), me on my Brommie: Gaz

You have it in a post on this thread by yours trully: 80A035382A Get it, plug it in and...give the feedback here Or nevermind, you have the Sonavox Sub, it is more than enough for you. Don't switch it because the sub comes in the spare, you have the sub on the left side. It won't fit

Car now sold on another site, but will make an effort to pop on here every once in a while, my new car (not brand new) is 2015 VW Polo GT Bluemotion ACT , one owner, full dealer history, 42300 miles. Not as quick as the fabia by any stretch both quieter and a bit more plush to drive with more toys 👍 😄 yes l m getting old ...

Catalytic convertor does not affect the Lambda value, it is downstream of the oxygen sensor, incorrect Lambda correction will prevent the catastrophic convertor from operating correctly and may result in its blockage.

I fear we're all straying away from the topic of "Replacing the Yeti" .... and I was part of the deviation too - sorry.

The Yeti uses 7Jx16 ET45 rims for its 215/60R16 tyre size. The Karoq front wheel drive uses 6Jx16 ET43 rims for its 215/60R16 tyre size. The Karoq 4x4 uses 6Jx16 ET43 rims for its 225/60R16 tyre size. As you can see in the chart below, 6J is the minimum rim width for both 215/60R16 and 225/60R16. It's surprising that the Yeti went for such wide rims, ie. 7J for its 215/60R16 tyre size. By comparison, the Superb MK3 uses a 6.5J rim for its 215/60R16 tyre size. ETRTO approved rim widths 215/60R16 6.0-6.5-7.5 225/60R16 6.0-6.5-8.0 235/60R16 6.5-7.0-8.5 All things being equal, a 215/60R16 fitted to a 6J rim will give a more comfortable ride than fitting this tyre size to a wider rim such as 6.5J or 7J. So although a 215/60R16 fitted to a 7J rim may give a Yeti an acceptable ride for many, it is not the ultimate combination when it comes to ride comfort. For example, fitting a 215/60R16 to a 6Jx16 ET43 rim from the Karoq, should provide a noticeable improvement in ride comfort compared to using the 7J Yeti rim with this tyre size...all other things being equal. Surprisingly, a 235/60R16 tends to be a cheaper tyre size than both 215/60R16 and 225/60R16...and could be a good option on the Karoq 4x4 with a 7Jx16 rim...or possibly an over-size Yeti tyre. As you can see in the chart below, 235/60R16 has an outside diameter 1.3% bigger than 225/55R17 (which is one of the standard Karoq 4x4 tyre sizes). Up to 1.5% difference from standard is normally considered insignificant. Outside diameter of tyres 225/55R17 679.3mm 235/60R16 688.4mm (+1.3%) 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 has been used on quite a few VAG cars over the years including (so there a plenty of secondhand rims available, and new steel rims are still available in this size): Audi A4 1995-2007 Audi A6 1997-2011 Seat Exeo 2009-2013 Skoda Superb MK2 2008-2015 Skoda Yeti 2009-2017 VW Eos 2006-2015 VW Passat 2005-2014 Here are three examples of the 235/60R16 tyre size. In these examples the tyres are not over-specified for the Karoq 4x4, ie. not XL (eXtra Load) and not V/W/Y speed rating. By not over-specifying a tyre the sidewalls remain as soft and flexible as possible which helps to provide the best ride comfort...all other things being equal. Uniroyal RainExpert 5 235/60R16 100H (summer tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s425p212999/Uniroyal_Tyres_Car_Uniroyal_RainExpert_5_235_60_R16_100H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Vredestein Quatrac 6 235/60R16 100H (3PMSF) (all-season tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s12008p201646/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_235_60_R16_100H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 235/60R16 100H (3PMSF) (all-season tyre) (All-Terrain tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s425p148190/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_235_60_R16_100H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_72dB As you can see in the below two photos, a 235/55R17 gives the Yeti a beefier look compared to the standard 225/50R17 tyre size. However, I would prefer the 235/60R16 option in preference to a 235/55R17. Not only would the resulting 16" wheel weigh a lot less than the 17" wheel, but unlike the 235/55R17, the 235/60R16 is not over-specified for the Yeti/Karoq. 235/55R17 is often XL (eXtra Load) and also tends to have a speed rating more than H (130mph). This all adds up to an unnecessarily heavy and stiff tyre. Yeti with 225/50R17 tyres (top photo) and 235/55R17 tyres (bottom photo) Compared to the below 7Jx17 alloy rim (10.1kg) from the Karoq (which is quite a light 17" rim), you can get 7Jx16 ET45 alloy rims that weigh a much lighter 7.3kg (from Audi A4/A6 1997-2004) saving 2.8kg each rim, ie. this 17" alloy rim is almost 40% heavier than some lightweight 16" alloy rims. There's some dispute over the weight of the 10.1kg alloy rim, because the black version is listed at 10.9kg. So the lightweight 7.3kg 16" alloy rim may provide a even bigger weight saving compared to these 17" alloy rims, ie. a 10.9kg rim is a whopping 50% heavier than 7.3kg. No wonder the above Yeti owner with 235/55R17 tyres found his 17" wheels to be on the heavy side. 7Jx17 ET45 alloy rim (10.1kg) (from Karoq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-ratikon-17-karoq/p/57A071497C+8Z8 7Jx17 ET45 alloy rim (10.9kg) (from Karoq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-ratikon-17-karoq/p/57A071497D+FL8

In the early days of the forum there were a number of members (around 20 from memory) who negotiated for the 16" Moon alloys as fitted a standard on the Greenline on their new (usually Elegance spec) Yetis. This involved going to Skoda UK as it couldn't be specified through a dealer. Mine is one of those and although it is a 1.2 TSI if my memory serves me correctly several were diesel 4x4s and I don't recall any comments about brake sizes, which I would have thought would have come up if there was a problem. Most of those original owners have moved on but you could try searching UK 16" Special Wheels Club or similar because there was a lot of debate at the time of the relative merits of the 16" and 17" wheels.

After a year and a half long delay I'm happy to finally share some pictures of a Phoenix Orange estate 😀 As promised: