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Can’t thank you all enough for your feedback and I’ve pretty much decided to get another vRS. Given this car is at least a couple of years old now, it must be due for a minor facelift or refresh. I might wait for that before pulling the trigger.

The TESLA water damage story is about a TESLA. No point going on about a Renault, or Nissan, MINI / BMW, Stellantis, Hyundai / KIA etc. They will have their own trial and tribulations. I want to know about the MG that 'Kidnapped' the driver and the £17,000 bill from a TESLA Dealer. Not the one where the owner made an explosion of his duff one in a quarry. They sold or told their story to the press, surely their must be some updates.

Variable output voltage from the alternator is a normal situation with charging systems for EFB/AGM batteries in recent VW group cars, this isn't the problem. This sounds like the source of the trouble. Your engine was designed to work with both of these systems. If the remapped engine is not working well, you should probably return it to the place that remapped the ECU and ask them to fix their mapping. It's also illegal to remove these systems, but I expect you already new that.

So do I

It's not beyond the wit of mankind to produce waterproof enclosures with venting. Random example: IP68 WATERPROOF ENCLOSURE with VENTILATION PLUG - WGV series | PRODUCTS | TAKACHI - Manufacturer of electronics enclosures and industrial enclosures (takachi-enclosure.com)

I dont even need to look at that video, which I suspect would be another clickbait anyway, to know that you cannot claim a battery pack has survived a momentary immersion by the fact that it drives out of a flood with water draining from the cabin. 12v electrics or even 48v electrics will function perfectly underwater, the damage is done by the water retained and galvanic corrosion which takes time. That Vauxhall will have 100% taken water into the battery pack, its vented for gawds sake and they are not going to extend the vents up into the cabin to asphyxiate the occupants with chemical fumes in a fault situation. I dont believe for a second that the Tesla suffered water ingress driving through puddles on the way to the restaurant where it failed, that just the story he wants taking up, it will have happened in the days before. The battery packs may even have drainage holes.

I was just looking through the electric hub section of my Regit program and I came across this little nugget which clearly shows one of the reasons for the EV slow take up currently. Among the many challenges in the transition towards electric cars, it’s for those without access to off-street charging. According to Vauxhall, 40 per cent of households don’t have access to off-street charging, whether that be from a lack of driveway or if using a communal car park. That number increases to 60 per cent in urban areas. Currently, most EV drivers conduct the majority of their charging when their car is parked overnight, but if that’s not possible as off-street charging is off the cards, what are your options? Here’s what you need to know about on-street EV charging. Do on-street chargers exist? Yes, there are a growing number of on-street chargers. The government established the On-Street Residential Charging Scheme (ORCS) in 2017, and this provides funding for those unable to charge their EV at home. The government set aside £15m for the 2023/4 financial year for local authorities to use to install such points on the streetside. It is ultimately down to local authorities if they install chargers, however. A recent survey from Vauxhall found that 72 per cent of councils have no published strategy for on-street charging, while just as shockingly, 69 per cent of councils are yet to install a single charger on the street. Currently, most on-road EV chargers are located in major cities, with London having a particularly high quantity of units available. What types of on-street EV chargers are available? On-street chargers depend on location and the type local authorities have elected to go with. These chargers tend to be slower, however, with most being around 3kW. On a typical EV, such as a Peugeot e-208, you’d need to be plugged in for around 14 hours for a full charge. Some might be quicker, up to around 7kW, which could bring the charging time down to around seven hours – plenty if the car is parked overnight. If you’re lucky, you might be able to find faster rapid chargers, reducing the time to around half an hour, though these are rare when it comes to on-street units. The chargers themselves come in various shapes and sizes. Some are integrated neatly into lamposts, while others can pop up out of the kerb when activated. Others look like more conventional charging points. There are various firms that specialise in kerbside EV charging, with some of the biggest names including Char.gy, Connected Kerb and SureCharge. How do I find out where on-street chargers are in my area? If you’re new to electric car ownership or are wanting to see where your closest electric car chargers are, the app ZapMap should be your first port of call. It’s a free service that has every charger across the country logged. It can help you find any type of charger, but has a specific filter for ‘on-street’ chargers. As we’ve mentioned, not every town has these installed as it’s ultimately down to the local council. London is by far the most populated when it comes to the availability and sheer number of kerbside charging points. Can I ask my council to install an EV charger on my street and are grants available? Councils and local authorities have various grants available to them for if they want to install on-street chargers. As we’ve mentioned, there’s the government’s ORCS scheme that funds up to 60 per cent of the cost of installing a charger, capped at £7,500 per unit or £13,000 if the costs of connection are “particularly high”. Ultimately, a council will only install and go to the expense of installing on-street chargers if they think there is enough demand – the ORCS is a demand-led scheme after all. So if you don’t currently have a nearby charger, you should get in touch with your local authority, and ideally get a group of people from within your local area together to show that you need a charger and that it would be used. The process will be different for each local authority, but you can register interest through external firms like charge point operator Char.gy, while Vauxhall has recently launched an ‘Electric Streets’ campaign. With this, it is collating a nationwide map of where current and future demand exists and is sharing this with councils. There’s no guarantee that councils will install an on-street charger, however. If I can park outside my house, can I just put the cable across the footpath? Ultimately, you shouldn’t just drag the cable across the footpath, even if you can park your car right outside your house, such as on a terraced street. That’s because the cable could be a trip hazard to those walking by, bringing potential liability issues. According to the Highways Act 1980, you shouldn’t cause any obstruction on a highway or street, which a cable has the potential to do. Councils have the power to remove cables if they believe they’re causing an obstruction too. You could look at creating a cable channel in the pavement outside your house to hide away the cable, or a cover for the cables, but again neither of these are recommended where possible.

I've found with the DSG that about town it sometimes tends to hold onto lower gears longer than necessary. To deal with this, I switch to manual, although sometimes just switching to manual and then back to drive causes the DSG to hold the higher gear. As regards using D, I've found that you can "coast" on the level, down hill and up hill. Indeed, on occasions I've had to brake the car when going up hill in a stream of traffic at a steady speed when the engine has switched to D. Going downhill, I tend to switch to manual and use the brakes to control speed rather than braking while using DSG and causing it to select far lower gears than necessary, it improves economy no end.

thanks for the info. i guess its one of those topics where you think at the end of the day, its not worth wasting any more brain power on and just enjoy the drive, which I can say i do very much.

Hi everyone. Although I've visited this site a few times since buying my first Skoda 3 years ago, I've not actually signed up until now, so this is my first time posting on here. I bought a 2006-reg Roomster 1.9 TDi on 1st Nov 2020, so I've had it almost exactly 3 years now. It had a little under 150,000 miles on the clock when I got her and now she's just under 175,000. I'd love to reach the "double ton" (ie 200K) one day, but that's probably going to take another 3 years or so, given my yearly average of around 8,000 miles. I bought my Roomster during the pandemic, when overseas travel was either impossible or very tricky, so in June 2021 I had the idea of driving to the most northerly, easterly, southerly and westerly points of mainland Britain and did that over 2021 and 2022, covering 3,735 miles in the process. I'm attaching one photo of my car on the long drive up to Dunnet Head, in the far north of Scotland - the first of those four epic road trips. I'm delighted to say that my Roomster performed brilliantly on all four of those trips, with no mechanical issues or annoying warning lights of any kind. The same is true of an epic 2,400-mile round-trip to south-west France (Tarn-et-Garonne) I did last summer, sharing driving duties with another diesel devotee friend of mine. Despite temperatures reaching the high 30's virtually every day, my trusty Roomster got us there and back without any issues. That doesn't mean that I haven't had any issues with my car - I definitely have, and one of the MOT bills was truly eye-watering (over £1000!), but overall, she's got me wherever I've needed to go and I really love my car. There's just something about the sound of that 1.9 TDi engine which I love. I'm looking forward to having more adventures with my Roomster in the years to come.

Terrible price, I can deliver such unit, reworked, in P&P version, for 430 GBP plus shipping 20 GBP. Upon delivery you have to pay local import taxes / duties.

My Carista adapter arrived today. First impressions are that it is quite basic & almost all features are locked behind the paywall. £9 a month, £20 for 3months or £46 for 12 months. If you subscribe to the 12 month plan you can have 1 month free trial (you have to enter your details & cancel before your month is over to avoid being charged). Even basic "live data" & DTCs are behind the subscription. On my Octavia I can make a basic scan of all of the modules in the car. It tells me part numbersetc & that I have 1 DTC in the infotainment unit & 2 DTCs on the CEM but the actual PCode(s) are only shown with a subscription. Clearing the codes is also not possible without a subscription. The live data is limited to about 10 basic parameters, the rest being hidden behind the subscription. The app makes a good job of showing you what you can do for all functions (coding, diagnostics, self maintenance, etc) you just find that the "save" or "enable" button is locked with a "BuyPro" button instead. However many of the coding options it offers are actually already available in the MFD or infotainment. Overall I'd say it's not really worth it. I was hoping for at least diagnostic functionality for free. I guess OBD11 is a better long term choice even if it costs slightly more as it offers long coding & seems better supported by the community. I might try a month free access over Xmas when I have some free time to experiment & change a few settings to see how it works. Gabbo

Have you asked @pab567? He really will be able to help. There is probably coding required before you can use it and he can help with that.

That's what I thought. I'd be screaming to stop stealing my 'leccy.

As far as I know the MOT emissions test equipment is relatively basic, so I would have though its unlikely pick up the difference (significantly enough anyway) if an engine was running okay. @gicu I appreciate this isn't helping you with your question, what led you to have the DPF removed? Had it filled up and reached the end of its service life?

Whilst she is behaving exactly like people I have challenged stealing from me or using my facilities without permission I also think it is staged but she is doing a very good job of the acting. He never once said "you are stealing my electricity!" which is what any normal persons reaction would be just an oblique reference at the end regarding the cost.

I may be joining your club....

They checked it right away. Using the fumes analyzer you mentioned. Also there's no smoke coming out when idling or revving but only after some aggressive acceleration while driving. I saw the cars that emit **** load of smoke and they keep passing MOT so there's no reason to be worried at all as I said before... fail threshold is really high and engine needs to be really destroyed to fail it.

No idea if this is staged or not - those things do happen but if it isn't, what an entitled arrogant horror of a person to think she can just steal someone else's electricity and have the audacity to park on some else's property in order to do so. 391716400_998609954565305_7301188350753662680_n.mp4

Wanted to report back. Wheel arrived very promptly from Caffyns and was exactly the part needed. Thanks for all the help on here in deciphering the wheel codes and the fact Skoda have two part numbers for the same item. One of which is double the price of the other!!

They insert a tube up the tail pipe and analyse the fumes, so how do you know that your emissions are low enough to pass?

350 via the Mibsolution website loaded fine on a Seat: The components loaded fine as per the SWDL screen: Put it on demo and took a run... No problems.

This is what I've tracked over the years I've had the car. Not sure of the whys or wherefores, but the trend is summer good, winter not so, however long term getting better!

Hi, The TPI is 2069590/3. This does an 5F recovery and part of BAID 167231935. I hope this helps folks. John

Could be lots of things which may or may not be directly related to the work you've just had done. Having the car up on a lift and looking underneath might show some faults with the car or the work done on it (or to it). The problems caused by tyre fitters and mechanics / "technicians" can be unbelievable to those not well experienced with people in the motor trade. On the other hand my wife's car has a sort of clunk / knock when going over potholes and bumps and I've seen on here other Fabia Mk3 owners have similar and unable to track down the cause. VW design, build and parts quality isn't as good as its past reputation, same for the other German marques. I would also suggest returning the car to where the work was done as if you're lucky you might encounter some of the decent people that are in the motor trade (but they often move on as they don't fit in). Sometimes even good people have bad days and not so good people can do decent work so even if either don't want to admit to a mistake it could be put right.

MPG and Cost Calculator and Tracker - Spritmonitor.de

I have just had my 5 year old 30,000 miles petrol SEL serviced at the local main Skoda Dealers. I asked the Service Manager why their prices do not tally with the service charges advertised by Skoda UK as they are more expensive. I was told that dealers have the option to opt out of the recommended prices and that the family owned business did just that as sticking to Skoda's prices would lose them money.

One thing you could try, to prove that the alternator voltage is unrelated, is to disconnect the battery monitor control unit connection at the battery negative post. One of the wires (violet/white, LIN) tells the alternator what is required of it, and if that is disconnected, the alternator should revert to a constant voltage output. See what, if anything changes when you try this. I think that may fix the flickering headlights, which could be a consequence of the alternator trying to keep a particular output voltage whilst the engine rpm is fluctuating in an uncontrolled way.

Probably a broken wire or wires in the passenger front door wiring bellows, between A-pillar and door.

I already checked these. Won't fail as DPF is present. And the check is only by a "torch". Emissions are still way below the fail threshold.

Best take it back & ask those that did the service, or MOT. If you have not already discovered what it is or done an inspection. The Spring need checking. seated correctly after being jacked up. Brakes, pads OK, wheels correctly tightened etc.

If your vehicel is qualified you still might have to be more patient since the rollout is done "step-by-step" so the update is not available for all at the same time. If you can't wait due to pressing issues the dealer should be able to help you via manual update our you perform the update by yourself @own risk...

That TotalCarCheck has sent me cross-eyed and made my head hurt, IF it's accurate the figures don't add up, I'd not put too much faith in any of these types of report even the much more expensive ones, not all accidents and repairs are reported and recorded and all databases have errors and omissions. You can check MoT (and "road tax") and MoT history with the gov for yourself for free and verify some of the TotalCarCheck figures. - Check the MOT history of a vehicle - https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history (and if you have the V5C reference number the station(s) that done the tests). Check if a vehicle is taxed - https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-tax (see if the road tax was as tardy as the MoTs appear to be). What was the advisory about EPC warning light? You can ask a Skoda Dealer for the full service history of the car to see if other servicing work was done in addition to oil changes and inspection, such as brake fluid / engine air filter / spark plugs / etc.. Offside Rear Seat belt damaged (7.1.2 (b) (i)) - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/7-other-equipment#section-7-1-2 First MoT wasn't done until 7/11/22 according to TotalCarCheck so doesn't tie in with March "road tax". I think you need more information about this car and the mileages verified, and more info on what, if any, additional servicing, maintenance and repairs have been done. You can ask the Dealership for and about these things and if the car was leased, if they don't want to help then walk away from them. Even those experienced at driving cars may miss or not detect issues with a car on a test drive, the computer programs and all the driver aids on a 2019 car can give a false feel plus a 2019 car makes the driver so remote from the mechanics and feel of the car - so if quite experienced or quite a noob a car might seem fine on a test drive. Don't worry about asking any questions, none will be silly (although some answers, especially some of mine sometimes, can be confused or wrong). Anything on the GPF? What are all the tyres like, same make/model, condition and tread? What are the brakes like, wear, (the braking system, which includes the tyres, is the most important thing on the car, followed by steering and suspension)? General condition of exterior and interior? This might be a good or even very good example but if not there are plenty of other cars for sale.

The TMC adaptation is also adjustable with MIB Toolbox.

This is all being said with me being quite a noob about cars so if anything i ask/say sounds confused...it's because I probably am - but hey there's only one way to learn right? The first MOT says: Offside Rear Seat belt damaged (7.1.2 (b) (i)) Tested the next day and passed. I did a car history check with TotalCarCheck and it hasn't come up with anything classed as an issue? And please don't worry about being cynical, I literally am assuming the worse when it comes to anything car related to do with dealerships. The reason I think it's been sitting for a while is because the road tax expired in March this year... In regards to service history I have the following attachments and @Rooted this may answer help your previous questions re:servicing+mileage. Due to the mileage irregularity increase I'm wondering if this was ex lease vehicle... Thank in advance for your help!

Had my petrol RS (only sort we can get in Oz) for just on a year now .Observations electronics mostly stable (entertainment system freaked out twice. Was fine on restart) ride ,handling and comfort fine (though supplied Bridgestone tyres are pretty harsh and noisy) not impressed by fake engine noise (sorted out with OBD11) bought some alloy gear change paddle extensions (really made the car much more fun) really dumb controls for sunroof (touch control slider is not great) Overall I really like this car

Passat but same key, i’m on my third key battery for about a year. 6 years 8 months old with 190,000 miles. Word of warning replace as soon as you get the warning, i didn’t straight away. I locked my keys in the boot because the signal was too weak from a weak battery and couldn’t detect the key inside.

Nothing that magic. Drive disengages and the RPM drops and the fuel is sipped if required to run the engine, and all this system helps the WLTP & RDE2 results and can save you fuel on the right roads if your toe is off the accelerator. But not all DSG or engines are the same or modes and then there are the 3 or 4 cylinder engines and the 4,s with ACT / COD in addition.

My keyless fob batteries last about a year to 18 months so 20 months if fairly reasonable I’d say.

I got this from a thread regarding the "sticking flap" problem. The thread seems to be about a Superb but the diagram looks similar to the Karoq filler. The drain hose looks like a push fit in this diagram. Could you reinsert from the top and then squirt some water down it to see where it comes out? The interesting bit is the instruction "Pull the drain hose -4- out of the unit.". It seems to imply that putting it back is just a reverse of the procedure. This thread has a video: https://www.karoqforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1059&sid=49af9ddf394050a363fe78ce20b1608a tom

Have you tried clouting the corner of the door closest to the lock while pressing unlock button?

I think you have to hack a hole in the plastic casing of the deadlocking motor, then you can rotate the pinion (lots of revolutions) which will turn the gearing releasing the deadlock. There have been photos of the procedure on this forum and there will likely be some Youtube videos. The problem is likely a broken wire in the door loop but of course you need the door open to access it.

Seat belt damage on a 4-year old car doesn't sound good. A car that's been sitting in a Dealership and/or not used for a long time could have a low car battery that might charge up fine but I'd not trust a Dealership to do that proper so would insist on a new CORRECT battery if I was to buy the car then you know you have a new (hopefully correct) battery in good condition and only you can be responsible if it doesn't last long or goes flat. A low car battery can throw up all sorts of warnings before the lights and warnings actually spell it out to the driver that the car battery is low and lack of proper use of the car can also contribute to possibly warning lights and messages but so can other issues and problems. Plugging in a VW appropriate scan (diagnostics) tool may give you more information towards the why the EPC light was on if the Dealership has been too lazy to clear all codes (never under estimate how lazy or careless Dealerships/garage/mechanics/"technicians" can be. If I seem cynical it's because of decades of dealing with English Dealerships/garage/mechanics/"technicians", even if you buy a decent Japanese car like a Honda or Toyota you still deal with English Dealerships, well in Ingerlund at least. There's no telling on a site how good or bad a car is to buy, look at the condition of the car ,look at any servicing history (is is full or bits missing) look at the mileage, when was it done, higher mileage can be better than low mileage and lack of use. It used to be that the Dealerships only kept the car for two months before moving it on if it didn't sell but I've no idea in the times of Covid, parts shortages and recent times. A 2019 VW car is more (over) VW complex than even (over) complex earlier VW cars so I'd suggest you approach it with even more care, the car's lack of use may be easily overcome if it has previously been well used and well looked after and maintained and fully serviced on time. The failed seatbelt may, or may not be a sign of something, or nothing. If you want a more carefree purchase you may consider looking elsewhere.

Stripped down many of these seats, the drivers seat 100% should not/does not have one. As @J.R. has said, chances are someone has possibly stolen a seat base to make it work. Which would make sense as to why its not plugged in, as there is no wiring or need for it.

It's the 360mm fan you have broken, The part number with suffix CS was superseded by the part number suffix EA, before your car was built, so the EA one would seem to be what you need. Secondhand or aftermarket recommended, as Skoda will ask for a breathtaking £327.44 for that item.

Paint code is on the build code sticker in the boot. I have a Skoda touch up paint pack I bought from TPS. Good. I have a Spray car of paint from your first link. Good. That is the correct colour. Thanks. AG Falco

I prefer a broom head, which doesn't trap grit.

Here is some more background information for the post, there is a "triple" software package that is detailed in FIRST, SECOND and THIRD. The FOURTH package is a standalone update. FIRST "Release": "MOI3_EU_SKMQB_R23802P", "MuVersion": "0238", "SupportedTrains": [ "*_?133*", "*_?134*", "*_?136*", "*_?137*", "*_?138*", "*_?139*", "*_?140*", "*_?141*", "*_?142*", "*_?143*", "*_?144*", "*_?145*", "*_?146*", "*_?147*", "*_?148*", "*_?149*", "*_?150*", "*_?151*", "*_?152*", "*_?153*", "*_?154*", "*_?155*", "*_?156*", "*_?157*", "*_?201*", "*_?205*", "*_?207*", "*_?208*", "*_?210*", "*_?212*", "*_?214*", "*_?216*", "*_?218*", "*_?220*", "*_?222*", "*_?224*", "*_?226*", "*_?228*", "*_?230*", "*_?232*", "*_?234*", "*_?236*", "*_?238*" ], As you can read, this does support the 0156 version, and then should update you to 0238 at the end. SECOND "Release": "MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P26810P", "MuVersion": "0268", "SupportedTrains": [ "*_?238*", "*_?240*", "*_?242*", "*_?243*", "*_?244*", "*_?245*", "*_?246*", "*_?249*", "*_?251*", "*_?252*", "*_?254*", "*_?256*", "*_?257*", "*_?260*", "*_?262*", "*_?264*", "*_?266*", "*_?268*" ], THIRD "Release": "MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P27800P", "MuVersion": "0278", "SupportedTrains": [ "*_?268*", "*_?270*", "*_?272*", "*_?274*", "*_?276*", "*_?278*" ], FOURTH "Release": "MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P30603P", "MuVersion": "0306", "SupportedTrains": [ "*_?268*", "*_?270*", "*_?272*", "*_?274*", "*_?276*", "*_?278*", "*_?300*", "*_?302*", "*_?304*", "*_?306*" ], Technically you can skip the 3rd update, and go directly to the 4th one.

I signal when there is no one to see it because i still do look around, mirror, look behind and around and move. If there is no one to see then there is no one to be annoyed. Those that do not see bikes or other vehicles, maybe in their blind spot should maybe do like wise.

Many Thanks to bigjohn and drefaldwyn for their replies and suggestions. Thanks to all of you. You were 100% on the money. Broken wires in wiring loom running down left side of hatch type boot lid. I paid a mechanic to repair them. Was $300, nearly all labour of course, but the info I found here helped immensely in identifying the fault.