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There is no drain hose on a modern lead acid battery, they have a gallery system for venting gases, it is implausible for acid to leak other than through massive overcharging when the casing would swell up like a melon before any electrolyte were to escape. The turbo actuators frequently seize just from the ambient moisture, the battery acid is a red herring. Your ECU casing has minor oxidisation of the electro-plating from ambient moisture, once again not gravity defying battery acid. The above claims are enough to tell me your mechanic is beyond his competence, falling back on "it must be the ECU" is further evidence of that. You are quite some way down a path of considerable expense for no positive outcome.

I am very much with J.R. here, a battery doesnt leak acid unless its cracked, boiling over due to over voltage. Even then, it wont spray out and cover things to the side and almost a foot away from it. Very weird that your mechanic is blaming 2 components on battery acid corrosion... Id be looking elsewhere for a mechanic who isnt just guessing. Basic checks need confirming; does the actuator move by hand? what is the resistance across the actuator controller whether electric or vacuum electric? any voltage to the actuator? is the boost sensor reading okay? is the turbo spinning freely? are there any boost leaks?

That could only result from failure of the alternator voltage regulator and would normally be witnessed by a bulging battery case. Me neither and there is nothing abnormal about the corrosion on the case, there is absolutely no reason to suspect ECU failure other than a lack of competence, there is no way that any battery electrolyte leakage, of which I doubt strongly, could have reached the ECU casing, what you should see in that case is severe corrosion of other plated steel or aluminium parts lower down if the battery has leaked especially the battery tray and clamp.

Lovely day. Got to airport with 25 miles range. All rapids still down. 1 gent trying to phone CPS. There are cones on chargers and no lights. So directed him to Lidl. Came out to try new BP Pulse at BP and M&S food. Decided which way to use charger port. My bad. Other bay was too close to a parked car. Card would not work. Phone App would not work. Paying full price started on credit card. Got in car as can't hear my self think for traffic. Got through to BP Pulse. They will investigate card. Had to go out to check charger ID. But as it is he already did security on me and had ID number. So he offered to remote start if I stopped the charger. As on the phone I would have been messing about outside and not hearing him and stepping over cable. So likely first and last BP Pulse use unless desperate. Rest of charging will be at the other park and rides or at PodPoint. Lovely day though before tomorrows torrential coming. Smile be happy.. PS. Resisting going into M&S Food. Near fully charged. PPS, re TESLA. Only need it occasionally at Aviemore or will need Euro Central, but there are CPS chargers there when working or not hogged.

@Rooted With your high miles, would a Tesla subscription be worth it to you? £12 a month but around 20p/kWh reduction in price. Interesting conundrum that affects those dependant on public charging, so wondered what your position would be.

SKoda UK have recently fallen into line with the rest of the VAG world and removed the 5 year "suggestion". There are plenty of threads on here giving the updated schedule.

A photograph taken end on of the ECU connector would be useful.

I'll let you know how I go tomorrow but your responses give me faith I'm in the right. Thanks heaps

Well I have removed the sidelights and they were indeed led units, Phillips Ultinon labelled. Replaced them with standard halogen units and the major issues have been resolved. I wet sanded & polished the worst headlight earlier but it looks like the dots are inside the lens as nothing changed. Here is an after picture with the standard bulbs in. I am happy with the light output and the beam pattern, but what do you folks think? Thank you all for your amazing help too.

My understanding is, it will be beneficial to the new battery to let the car know that the failing battery has been replaced - my wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI with the same size of EFB, I thought that it was dying maybe 2 years ago, so I bought a "next size up" replacement Bosch AGM - I can see that battery ending up in my older daughter's May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra and her buying me a smaller, ie same size Bosch AGM as this Exide/VW Group factory fit battery in the Polo seems to be still okay. Also, that May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra with its original EFB Exide/VW Group battery, is normally used for in town driving (stupid I know), I tested its battery back in the Summer time and it looked like it was on its last legs - it has been dropping off in health over the past 2 years, then that car was driven down to London and back from Scotland, now, a month later, its battery is looking okay - how long that will last I don't know. Edit:- the thing is, unless a group of people with similar cars sorted themselves out into a group that DID code in the new battery and a group that DIDN'T code in the new battery, how would you know which was the right way to approach this, in my world I find it easier to do things as advised.

I have worked it out. The minimum charge setting must be below the current battery level for scheduled charging to work. I was set at 50% and battery was a 8%, car wanted to charge to 50% as quickly as possible stop, then scheduled charging would take over.

Totally unacceptable. Stick it out for a FOC loan car, or if they still resist gently let them know that 'A Current Affair' might be interested in your story. I suspect your dealer is the same one my car came from and is going to for its first service next week. Oh, how I hate dealers....

Only if the electrolyte has boiled and then it would be mostly hydrogen, the labyrinth gallery system is intended to condense and drain back any acidic vapour, some also have Gore membranes. If it has vented then damage to the wiring and connectors as you suggest is much more plausible which is why I asked for the photo of the ECU connector. The next logical step would be the turbo actuator connector or is it one on a vacuum solenoid valve?

I think it's quite possible. Acidic vapour can come out of vents, and with bonnet down could go anywhere. Wiring damage may have occurred if any wires nearby had cracked insulation.

Don't feel that way - there are no foolish questions.

Thank you Well that's one way to make a fool of myself hah! But glad to know it is normal! Was worrying I messed something up or missed/damaged a plug somewhere! Have a good evening

Hi, I drive a Skoda Superb SUPERB ELEGANCE TDI CR DSG - 2010 That was a cut and paste, by the way! Pleased to be here and to hop around the forums. Cheers for now, Andy

Le me introduce myself, My Name is Bryan and I recently purchased a 2020 Skoda Kamiq in Metallic Blue it's a 1.5L SE 7DSG with Amundsen Navigation. I am still learning my way round the Infotainment System as I am fresh out of hospital and won't be driving for about a month. The car is an ex-motorbility car with no adaptations. I previously owned a Skoda Yeti which I regretted selling. I have worked for VW/Seat Development in Europe so I am familiar with these cars. I will be adding my Personal Plate later this month which is currently on retention. I am looking for suggestions for a name for my Kamiq and I will post the winning name here in December.

Tungsten.

Hi, presently a bmw owner but have a Kodiaq on order, I'm a retired mechanic if I can help with general problems.

Hi, I don't know about this fault or Skoda's in particular but I'm a retired mechanic so maybe can help a little, so to cover what you've said I think the g/box would have been removed not dismantled, then the cylinder would be the slave not the master, it's the flywheel and loose bolts that seem unusual, the bolts don't just come loose and if they were and the flywheel is damaged I would suspect that could be a reason for the slave cylinder to fail/break. I would ask for more clarity on the loose bolts and expect it to be a warranty fault claim.

The fact that if you have a flat battery, the handbrake won't even come off. Ps. Later type cars will not let you use the -negative terminal for jump starting. You need to go to a part of the engine or chassis.

I installed the firmware and didn’t loose the maps I already had

The very first time I use the brakes on each journey I find they are quite stiff and almost like they aren’t going to work, but after that they’re fine. I drive mine in hybrid and sport mode 100% of the time so the regen is quite strong and I don’t really have to brake all that hard anyway

How did the thread subject change from Manual/Electric Handbrakes?

apart from my 22my car, all have been factory ordered by me - needed because I always specify factory fit towbar (waiting time for delivery not a problem, it comes when it comes). my 2022 MY is from stock (new), me first owner, not pre reg, newly reg'd, etc etc All my Skodas for the 30 years have been brand new factory orders, with the exception of 2022MY which is new, unregitered from stock - "shown as immediately available" Suggestion:- go to dealer, ask what deal is poss which meets your budgetary requirements in terms of monthly repayment covering all your motoring needs. ask hypothetical question "if within (say) two years I come back to p/x this one for the next one on PCP, do I have to pay the optional final plus optional purchase, or do you clear it all off as part of the new deal?" "if I repeat this every year or two, when do I get caught for the optional final payment and option to buy payment?" My experience is his reply should be something like "when you want to p/x or sell the last ever car you bought on PCP and you're no longer looking to buy another on PCP" I still hold the view that I don't want to own anything which is showing its age to the point that its value is visibly disappearing, or is rusting on my driveway. Also, do have a look at any of your previous vehicle's MOT histories, and note how many failures/advisories you would have had to rectify at your expense. I have found this an interesting exercise, and thank all those who've responded. I've yet to find anyone convinced of my logic, but I think I have put just as much out here as I can be bothered with, maybe too much. Cheers everybody

It's why I buy the least tech model I can, also far less to go wrong!

Sorry, I thought they were comparable in terms of size.

Volvo EX30 coming in this price bracket.

Thread title really said what it was about. Under £25,000 RRP.s The EX30 seems to be one that people will need to decide on the Screen & Controls.

What is acceptable comes from v=ir. And you need the length (double for return cct), cable resistance (varies with cross section) and current draw. So, say 4amps, (probably over kill) 8 metres, acceptable voltage drop 2 or 3%. Tables I see with cross sections, suggest 1.3mm2 to 1.5mm2 at least. But then again, the current draw of that camera won't be 4 Amps so in all likelihood you may well get away with 0.75mm2. If you Google for some Automotive cable specs and voltage drop calculator you'll see what I mean.. as long as the cable is fused appropriately for cable capacity, too small a cable doesn't create any risk but the item may not function at too low voltage.

Apart from Broxburn which takes me 10 minutes to get to and 10 minutes back they are all just a few hundred yards / 5 minutes off the routes i am on and places i am going to. I only need the choices because i have a small range car but i knew that when i went for it. It means that i am going to have to pay more sometimes to get charged and on my way. But i am not going travelling in what can be gridlock traffic like you get in Edinburgh searching out chargers, i would rather get on one and on my way. The Airport Park & Ride chargers down for more than a week is a disgrace. Aberdeen is as bad if not worse & this is why MGF and others are having customers for expensive chargers. They are on the routes, at filling stations, in and out and away. Just splash the cash. Double the cost of an ICE vehicle really. PS Between Edinburgh & Glasgow when cold weather i can now use Tesla non Tesla with the most recent opened up to us Supercharger. Stuff BP Pulse and the Services East or West. You do get half price Wild-Bean drinks with your card (Supposedly when charging.) But i am not paying £2.00 a drink even if that is 1/2 price.

You can not use your 1.6 TDI for work if the engine is gubbed with a broken timing belt. (Just like another Private Hire driver had on here.) It is a Tool, so Service & Maintenance is an Overhead / Running cost. Best get the Timing Belt / Tensioner Replaced and while at it the Water Pump. It is costs you declare with your incomes for tax reasons.

Use who can do the job, all the gear and more than ideas, doing Servicing & Maintenance correctly. & knows of Recall, Recall Actions, Service Campaigns etc, and only does them if you agree after they show what they are and why required, or not required. @ a Main Dealer. Be sure the Haldex is being correctly serviced by them, not just oil change. Screen cleaned or replaced if your Haldex has a Screen / Filter, which it will. DSG, if there is a filter and there are with a DQ250 or a DQ381. You want that replaced.

So today checking out my charging options when i get to Edinburgh and for a few days travel & then charging for return. To the Airport first to see if the Chargers are back on. Rapids 55 pence a kWh. If not Hermiston Park & Ride. 5 Rapids same price. CPS / Edinburgh City. Called BP Pulse about my Subscription & the pathetic performance of BP Pulse using card or phone, if my card does not work at the new charger at a BP Station outside the Airport, road to New Bridge call them. 69 pence a kWh. MGF @ BP filling station next to McD,s at Newbridge , 5 rapids, 79 pence a kWh. Out to Broxburn Lidl, 65 pence a kWh. Norton Hotel BP Pulse, 1 Rapid, 69 pence. Straiton Park & Ride, 1 Rapid. CPS. 55 pence. Ikea / Gridserve. 1 Rapid, 69 pence. Retail Park Evyve, 1 Rapid, 75 pence. Lidl Craigmiller, PodPoint 65 pence. There are others around if i am away from where i usually go but Edinburgh makes taking a ICE vehicle more sensible, especially if you have a Blue Badge. (Access & Parking, EV,s are no advantage.) There is no suitable 7 kW chargers i want to use and wait but i will use a 11 kW charger while waiting on a Rapid if needs must. The Mini Electric when showing 15% battery and 14 miles range takes in 28 kWh. When showing 95% battery (90 miles) yesterday and topping up to 100% (98 miles) it was 4 kWh of a charge it took. When i unplug and switch it on it will show 104 miles range. Heating down, Screen / AC off, 1 setting heated seat & away. It will do 3.5 - 3.7 mile a kWh for 35 miles, and get 3.1-3.3 miles a kWh once on the Motorway.

thats the remains of fly eye headlight wrap was on mine if you buy some good lab grade rubbing alcohol off ebay the residue will come off.

Either way round is fine. Just isolate any open connectors from the elements

I called in on her today and She agrees - the Felicia is a good choice!

What engine do you have?

Quite a few questions from you all, and that's good, because I'd rather it is clear to everybody interested enough that it works for me, but you have to suit yourself as to whether I'm talking through my neck, or not. All PCP on basis of max term, min miles, the payment level you can afford and is reasonable in your mind as reflecting acceptable cost of motoring, but always change for the next car after (preferably) a year or so, thus 1st year tax is within the PCP agreement i.e. you don't "pay" it, recovery service is always present within the PCP, no MOT is ever reached, all service parts are within their usual lifespan 2011 - put couple or three hundred plus fab estate in p/x for octavia. Cash outlay around 2-300 ukp Octavia WL11FU* 2012 - WL11FU* in p/x with c.500 ukp for octavia BV62YX* 2013 - BV62 in p/x with c.3 - 500 ukp for yeti BD63WD* 2015 - BD 63 in p/x with c.500 ukp for yeti BD15*** 2016 - BD15 in p/x with ?c. 750 - 1000? (can't remember) for yeti BD16UU* 2018 - BD16 in p/x with ?c. 750 for octavia BU18GH* 2019 - BU18 in p/x with, say, c.750 for octavia BV69VY* Rounding it all upwards I reckon I've paid cash somewhere between ukp 4 - 5K over 7 cars by way of depreciation. Then I made the mistake of jumping off the PCP into outright ownership by p/x BV69 and paying cash 10K ukp and bought 2022 ym in Oct 2022, The car which should have had the internal electric boot lid release according to the brochures, and as also accepted in emails with Skoda UK, and for the lack of which Skoda UK made me a payment of 1690 ukp Hope this explanation makes sense, even if the logic is flawed.

Pretty sure I had Philips Ultinon led sidelight bulbs in my MkI Fabia and had no issues with them. Got them in my Rapid as well and they've never caused me any problems. I'd follow @J.R.'s advice and get them polished.

Hi, I changed mine at the five year mark, as suggested, and I only had half the miles you've got now. Must say though, you will get alot of different answers, and you will have to choose for yourself.

I stand just off centre so that the kicking foot is dead centre.

@vindaloo Wow, I think you are correct the sidelight is the one producing the light arcs, and it looks different to a standard t10 w5w bulbs. I was so focused on the h7 dipped beam bulb I neglected to look any further at the sidelight bulb When it stops raining I'll have a gander, could be an led as you say, it protudes far further than perhaps it should. I'll update later or tomorrow. Thanks very much

Miggs - I know how you feel. Can I be alone in thinking that using the vehicle (any vehicle) these days is, say, 25% knowledge of how to make the vehicle move & 75% of how to interpret & make work all the electronic gizmos ??

I fitted a Hardrace front tower strut brace on my Superb a year and half ago now. It has improved turn in and the front end certainly feels more rigid/planted. It complements the Hardrace rear swaybar nicely, that I already had. Would recommend it, and it's easy to install.

It would be for you to argue with them but in all honesty the chances of it getting anywhere are slim. They would argue its been repainted, a stone chip, poor cleaning or any other number of things. And in all fairness it could be any of these things. If you wanted to save on costs as its quite a isolated panel you could get it re lacquered up to and under the spoiler lip but no further.

Servers were down for several hours yesterday so you may not have been able to login to your user account (I couldn’t on the app) so if you couldn’t login you wouldn’t have been able to activate?

My Daughter's currently in Nairobi, meeting hefalumps: And not a hefalump: Gaz

I use it the Skoda sat-nav in preference to Google maps, but that said, for the vast majority of my journeys, I tend to know where I'm going. I don't use sat-nav enough for any clunkiness in the user interface to be a nuisance. Entering an address in the Skoda system isn't as easy as Google maps, especially as you can use voice control for Google maps, which is really handy. The voice control on my Skoda is rubbish, which considering it's a 2019 car, is a big disappointment. I'm not a big fan of Google Maps, which I find tends to give very poor instructions. Example: Google maps tells you to leave the M42 at the "Bickenhill Interchange". What it means is Junction 6. There is no signage on the motorway that tells you junction 6 is the "Bickenhill Interchange", so it's a poor instruction. Obviously it's clear on the map, but it's a silly mistake the Skoda sat-nav doesn't make. I've also found Google maps gets confused on some roads under certain conditions, but that may be down to urban conditions affecting the satellite lock. Whatever the problem, my Skoda system is more dependable. I've navigated a journey with both Google and Skoda sat-navs running, and I found the Skoda sat-nav gave more timely instructions than Google maps. If I could only use one system, I'd choose the Skoda system. If I was a delivery driver, I'd probably choose the Google system, as the voice control is so useful.