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I’d totally forgotten about this thread and haven’t posted in it for a good few years so thought I’d start going through my Flickr and post up various things I’ve captured over those years one or two images at a time if that’s ok. I’ll start off with these two I captured last December.

Tyres make a difference. OEM Bridgestones were not good. There are reports that Cross Climates are better. I have Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons which are also good. tom

It's all about Shaun the Sheep at Clumber Park 🙂

Hello Tibbadog, welcome to the forum. Here I am, green with envy. Oh what a sinner I am 😁 Enjoy your trip. Your new engine (EA888) has cam chain.

I'm pretty sure the software was developed more recently than 30 years ago...

Actually this switch is not changing speed as such, rather sensitivity of the rain sensor (or in fact how wipers react to certain amount of rain).

This is a list of all the variables that Tesla vehicles use to predict sat-nav's arriving state of charge %: – Wind speed & direction – Elevation/grade – Traffic speed – Avg acceleration/deceleration – Ambient temperature – Humidity & pressure – Solar load & cloud cover – Initial battery percentage – Initial battery temperature – Gross combined vehicle weight – Rolling resistance – Aerodynamic drag coefficient – HVAC consumption – Vehicle-specific energy consumption (bike rack or similar) – Battery pre-conditioning source: https://www.teslarati.com/tesla-factors-battery-on-arrival/?fbclid=IwAR3AYwUJiBYFk-ue6WtAoY_Pz4fdMc_yYKxQyhwvyBywau9sDfHGO_1lM8E There is also a software update waiting to be installed. It is now able to predicts wait time at busy locations based on other cars en-route: https://www.notateslaapp.com/news/1645/tesla-update-2023-38-will-predict-supercharger-availability-and-wait-times Truth about EV's is that it is very easy to live with when the software takes care of everything and just works. I found the arrival SoC prediction to be very accurate and can be relied upon. On the other hand, my neighbour's Genesis car software is horrendous. Without a schedule set in the car, the car would start charging immediately when plugged in. But if charger has schedule (my new one does), it wouldn't automatically start charging when charger enables power. It's more backwards than my Nissan Leaf...... My Leaf's V2H is mostly working brilliantly. When the car is on the driveway, I only use cheap electricity and all excess solar production is captured. Only problem is with currently with unfinished V2H software, I can't set the SoC limits, it is non-configurable at 100%-30%. My original calculation was based on 100%-10%. This means during gloomy days + extra dehumidifier to dry laundry + school runs, this 9 years old first-gen Leaf doesn't have enough battery capacity to last all the way to overnight cheap period. May be I should start my own thread on my V2H experiences...... Also considering upgrade to a 40 kWh Leaf......

So true. After the years I can put it back in few seconds most of the times, but now and there comes moment when I need to take a step back in order not to brake the car.

Tonight's sunset ..........

Looking for something else and I happened across a photo from early 2006 of my 1999 B5 Passat Estate: 1.9 TDI (AFN) auto. Six CD changer in the boot (Gamma?). Awww Gaz

Thanks. I wouldn’t actually know what pressure the tyres should be set at tbh - I would need to check the manual. I’ll ask them to do pressures to manufacturer spec as per the door shut sticker - but I’d really hope they’re on top of that! And - similarly that checking the oil and coolant is a given before the car comes anywhere near me. Nonetheless - I suspect some garages just don’t bother with the basics. I’ll take a check list and remember to check those things before driving away. just to add - there is no spare. I may try and source one.

VW 508.00 for a 245

Oh, and ask them to verify that the transit blocks have definitely been removed.

Great, thanks for the intel. I’m driving up in my part ex Alltrack and aiming to stop over/Airbnb around Moffat on the way.

I’m coming up to Perth. A mere 450 miles.. That’s an interesting point about tyre pressures, never thought of that but assumed they would check on the PDI. Will bring my compressor gauge too just to look like a nerd and irritate the salesman.

Welcome. Enjoy the car and the drive back. How far up Scotland are you coming? Remember and tell the Salesperson to be sure the tyres are not overinflated before hand over and the TPMS set, Surely by now the VW Group have chain tensioners as reliable as they can be, it has been many decades they have for them to remember Vosrprung durch Technik.

4*oC. Not a breath of wind. But then it was 3.5 miles kW/h going up hill for 21 miles, and it gets to 3.9 with 23 miles coming back but it was over 4 miles quite a bit until the last 2 miles.

I always remove the filter, do the cleaning session without it and then put back new filter in (or old one if its not too old and in a good conditon).

Yes, screwdriver and lamp/torch is mandatory. It's not a rocket science what needs to be done, it's practice to do it properly. . For me the challenge is in making the damper arm stay in proper position while I am trying to fit the box on its hinges and all that. Depending on the the box, on some cars that damper simply does not want to stay up so you need to use duct tape or something sticky in order to have it in the right position while putting the box back in.

Side panel removes easily enough, its just clipped in, not much force required. https://youtu.be/ZD2rOX7xx4A?si=PK2UANdO2m-PFCkk Damper reinstallation can test the patience of a saint😆

It's easy enough to do. It's just reattaching the damper which is fiddly to do

Whether to indicate, not indicate, brake lights, good habit, bad habit, competence questioned, it's all been uttered over 3 pages. Pushing back onto topic, the OP's opening post stated their dislike for the Lane Assist feature and asked how many others felt the same. The responses are there. Some supportive, others clearly not, some getting heated and some drifting off topic - usual stuff. No minds will be changed, individuals will stick with their opinion, that's how it works. Whether it means embracing the safety technology in these vehicles, or choosing to turn it off and avoid being annoyed by it is up to the individual. I have no interest in trying to convince others of my opinion, I only exercise the right to express it respectfully, hopefully we can all do similar. I'll continue with what makes me and my family feel safer in the car and having a friend who was actively saved from potential disaster by Lane Assist, I won't be wavering. As Briskoda has a global audience it's worth remembering that not all UK road rules and laws are shared elsewhere, obviously, so some 'give' in responses on various specifics may help to project greater tolerance. Driving conditions and climates also vary considerably between regions where rules and practices may be borne from a different context to those that may apply in the UK.

Well, thank you....not! I suggest you just get on with it and I'll get on with enjoying my car as it is.

Hi folks. First post. I’ve just stuck a deposit down on a Superb estate 280 L&K (one of the last ones in stock I think). Collecting it (all the way up in Scotland to drive it back to Somerset) in a couple of weeks. Very excited - it replaces a Passat Alltrack which has been great for 8 years, but I’m looking forward to having a bit more poke under the right foot. And a Canton sound system to enjoy some tunes on the way home.😀 Any other 280 owners on here - how do you find yours? Are there any foibles or issues to look out for? Also do they have a cambelt? Or chain driven? thanks.

I can't say I've done a massive survey but I don't know anyone else amongst friends, family and colleagues who runs anything other than standard tyres. The place that swapped our summer and winters over on the Tiguan (sometimes I did it myself, sometimes I got them to) seemed to think I was a bit bonkers. There's a lot of variables, but some cars are known to be spectacularly useless in snow - Merc Estates, for example. I had one and put All Seasons on it before there were things like CrossClimates. A colleague got one after years of BMW Estates that had been no problem and first bit of snow he couldn't even get it off the works car park.

It's still an RGB led with a small controller, it's pretty normal and standard for a car rather than having loads of wires everywhere. There are lots of other RGB lights that can be added, for example footwell, center console and door pocket using OEM parts + coding. For instance I've added OEM RGB footwell lights to my '18 Octavia. You might also want to look into the aftermarket Chinese footwell light controllers too as they might offer an easier way to interface into the car.

Not sure if the video is jerking, if the pulley is jerking but not rotating or if its a strobe effect from the video sampling rate, 3 seconds is not long enough to be sure as my computer often shows videos jerkily. If the cam pulley was not turning then the belt has stripped around the crank pulley.

I would, Send the sales person an e-mail and tell them the pressure you want the tyres set at. When you arrive check the pressures with your gauge. If wrong start at that point to be telling them to get their act together if necessary, Hopefully not. Check before the car is started where the coolant sits. Dip the oil cold and see where it sits. Later check at normal operating temp after a few minutes stopped on the flat. Check the spare wheel and the kit is all there OK. Enjoy, it should be all fine. Perth is lovely even for a flying visit, weather forecasts not to bad.

Thanks for the replies. So 508 equivalent is 0W-20? VAQ diff was serviced last year, (yep one year late) but cheers for the heads up. Whilst we're on a similar subject, do we know the service interval for the manual gearbox? The car (infrequently) tows a reasonably heavy caravan, so I'm thinking the gearbox will be deserving of some maintenance sooner rather than later... Cars just gone past 55k miles.

With my 2019 Superb 2.0 L&K estate I find that as soon as I indicate to start the overtake, before I even steer out of the lane I’m in the car starts to accelerate- I have it set in programme to sport which helps greatly in speeding up the overtake, very little if any lag. If the ACC setting is set to normal the overtake seems very slow by comparison.

Thanks! Hopefully a chain is good news although I know they aren’t always trouble free with some VAG products.

Im presuming your Karoq has the DSG gearbox? If so, its almost normal - somewhat of an all or nothing start off. I adopt a gentle right foot approach, but can still be caught out in the wet as you say. My 2018 Karoq DSG was same.

Just to update my last comments about our 2016 Fabia stop start problem. We always switch that system off but the Yellow engine light has continued to come on. There seems to be no noticeable affect upon the running of the vehicle and it has passed the emission test at 2 MOTs. It is now a very low mileage car mainly used locally, which is not ideal for the battery. The battery was changed, for an AGM Stop/ Start battery, the old one had continued to start the car until it totally collapsed after 7 years in the car. However, the stop/ start error still comes up until the system is switched off and the engine light still illuminates, this can be switched off using a cheap code reader but re-appears quite quickly when the engine is running. The car failed the MOT recently because of the light and it is now at a garage being investigated. Incidentally my charger is designed for AGM batteries and I do used the earth point if and when charging is necessary. I would be interested to know if others have solved the Star/ Stop problem and will report the outcome of the current investigation.

Hi - The ACC will slow down whenever a car in front is going slower than the speed you have selected. Assuming that there is space to overtake then you simply use the accelerator as normal to increase your speed until you complete the move. The ACC is always overridden by the use of the accelerator. HOWEVER, be aware that once you stop using the accelerator the car will slow down to the pre-set speed, therefore you need to adjust the ACC speed to match the new speed after overtaking. If your ACC speed is already set to be faster than the car in front then as soon as you pull out into the overtaking lane the ACC will start to accelerate to the pre-set speed without intervention - the only problem with allowing the ACC to complete the overtaking without you taking control is that it may be too slow at getting to a safe speed to complete the move, hence its best to use your gears and accelerator as needed, to be safe, then go back to ACC to control the speed.

My previous Kodiaq had the Haldex oil changed and the pump mesh cleaned at the 3rd service 16k and the mesh filter looked similar to this. Hate to think what it will be like at 30k.

If it isn’t a fault there was a coding where: Off = everything off Auto = DRL on and dimmed+ others as needed. Others = Dimmed DRL + corresponding lights. I’m too am surprised they need to be turned off, but different countries have different laws, so not sure that I would be in a position to question it.

I’ve had a bulb with a cracked filament and a dodgy old bulb holder cause this. If you have put LED bulbs in they will cause issues unless the correct type and even then they may not be road legal. The bulb test passes a tiny current through the filament to test the bulb but it can’t do this with an LED. Try replacing the bulbs with new filament ones and see if that fixes it, as it’s an inexpensive test.

Plenty of post on this subject... "Search" is your best friend

Youtube has a few videos

Can't answer your question directly but I do spend far too much time doing similar parts swapping across VW models. Have a look at any of the online versions of EKTA, I like lllparts.co.uk as they have the most upto date version, and see if the same parts are used on each engine.

It seems that your left light is adjusted a bit higher, than right light and that is causing issues. If they are set correctly, on the same level, you should get ideally straight line with engine off, and one step only with engine one. In your case i can see 2 steps with engine on, and with engine off it's also going doenwards on the right side. Take it for headlight adjustment and you will be fine.

Yes, that’s what I meant. They won’t do it, but that’s the point…

Yes, there are limitations to the Lane Assist but they are learnt very quickly. On local roads the places where LA gives a nudge such as the one lane becoming three are quickly learnt too; just anticipate the LA nudge and steer/drive through it. As for moving to the right hand lane n a dual carriage way, what is wrong with using the indicator? I really do not understand why anyone would disable a very useful bit of technology just so they don't have to use an indicator stalk. 🤷‍♂️ Embrace the technology because it, and more, will be in every car we buy from now on.

I was hesitant to query the brake lights, but glad someone did. I also assumed it to be a UK/Regional thing. I imagine it would never occur to most people in AU, and absolutely no-one would sit at the lights with hand/emergency brake on. On the other hand, driving with super-bright headlights coming at you can be a genuine hazard since you are actually moving, not stationary.

The physical properties of rhodopsin don't change with age. I absolutely see where you're coming from, though. Brake lights glaring in your face is in fact very annoying, especially when it's raining. But, I'd rather have an annoyed person behind me than whiplash because the driver behind me thought I was still moving. Being stationary with no brake lights and empty road behind you would be really dangerous. That's why the picture you sent clarified things, there should at least always be someone else behind you shining their brake lights for the traffic catching up.

FYI, this annoys af those behind you.

Hi, I’m interested in these arms as mine are starting to make a few noises, so it’ll need addressing in the near future. As Awesam said, superpro don’t list any comparability with the superb so I emailed them and they claim these parts aren’t interchangeable…. So then I thought I’d research the golf vs superb control arms and found this. Golf control arm is 313 ‘wide’. Superb control arm is 327.5 ‘wide’. So now I’m fascinated as to how this has worked, because this ties up with what the Aussie person found. Thoughts anyone?

New button at the top! Better iconography...

Jan 2022. So with all the parts gathered up it was time to get them on the car. With the 245 having the wider rear track from factory once the spacers were on and I got the wheels bolted back up I had a moment where I thought "this was a bad idea" because I was convinced it was going to scrub when loaded up, and been my "dad" car was still supposed to be practical. . . Anyway it was FLUSH but never caused any issues, even with 150kg of sand in the boot. 😁 then off for alignment on a local firms clampless alignment rig, very cool bit of kit. And the end result. . 😍. . Again how I think they should look from the factory.

Changes made: ST XA Coilovers fitted, lowered to remove that arch gap but not slammed to a stupid height. Ride comfort has remained superb which I’m really pleased about. Only other changes are my Motec wheels which I think has really improved the look over a standard car and a front badge change courtesy of SuperSkoda.