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Loved the Moonlight reflected in the Lake, although handheld, so not the best (took the last one with my TZ70):

Solid White is a favourite of mine as is Black, Red & Grey. Just for being easier to do Kerb Side Auto,s tart ups.

Quick pics of my 176,000 mile octavia mk1 vrs 1.8t on the new wheels

A few from Clumber Park and Danes Hill nature reserve......... 20231130_150038.mp4

My favourites etc disappeared on Wed morning. Normally happens after skoda connect goes down and they restore from a backup which is months old

Position 10.2 is described as headlight dip relay, so I guess you have the type with a single H7 halogen bulb and a moving shutter system that selects between main and dipped beam? Pos 4 is the X contact relief relay (switches off various current consumers during engine cranking) Pos 13 is your engine ECU relay - "Diesel direct injection system relay" Pos 14 is fuel pump relay.

Hi Moribund, I'm embarrassed to admit that my problem was in fact my own ignorance. My old Octavia only had one temperature dial and the new one has temperature control on the left and on the right. Everything else was a red herring. Apologies if this doesn't solve your problem. All the best, Nick

All done. Bit of a pig to access as it’s slightly underneath the battery housing but just managed to get one of my hands in enough to undo the cap and used a funnel with some hose attached. Many thanks guys.

Do you mean the glowplug relay? If so it's in position 9 on the relay panel.

Desperate to recover their massive capital expenditure before TESLA wipe the floor with them.

Thats the maxi-dot, vRS' have virtual cockpit...

Found pictures in another thread of my 'Worky' van which was actually fitted out as a camper and could be just parked up over night where there were other vans but 'No camping'. & the bikes & Glensee and Mar Lodge.

How you react to minor paintwork damage is up to you. I think trying to keep paintwork perfect is understandable, and you can keep your car looking pristine, but you have to take the hit on the cost of doing that. Or one can take the touch-up paint approach, and accept a spotty car. Personally, I've managed to come to terms with my car having mild acne. I remove any paint over the rust, degrease with white spirit, then isopropyl, prepare the bare metal with Karust as a rust treatment, and them apply paint to finish. It produces a finish that might make @Rooted wince, but it'll do me. As I have a white car, such touch-ups are hard to spot as it's quite a forgiving colour, but I appreciate you might want a perfect finish in that lovely metallic blue. Bear in mind, you WILL get stone chips and other minor paint damage if you drive your car, so if you can get some expertise in touching up paintwork well yourself, that's likely to be a good investment rather than £200+vat to keep sorting out blemishes as you find them. Personally, I have learned to accept that so long as it's not going rusty, I'm happy enough with the touch-up dots on my car, here and there. But I accept that others may have higher standards than me in this regard.

As to the Coding out of the Brake Lights, and the Brake Lights being on then there are several threads on that on Briskoda. If you are the tail end charlie in a line of traffic stopped you want / need the brake lights on though. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/497760-code-out-brake-lights-on-autohold

That's way to clever an idea - it'll never happen 🤣

AIUI each of the following are available in the car (infotainment screen and virtual cockpit) and via the app... Long Term - keeps count up to 9999Km or 99h 59m then automatically resets. Can be manually reset. Since refuelling - just that Since Start - just that, unless stationary for less than 2 hours in which case it continues the count. Can be manually reset. However, I've noticed the app misses some journeys if the Škoda servers are down or unreachable for a period of time (e.g. parked up in a mobile 'not spot'). Also, the car data may be reset if there is a major software or firmware update whilst the may app retains it. Alas it all seems a little amateurish.

And SPEC stage 3+ clutch, pressure plate with billet steel, and full faced with springs friction plate with holding capacity up to almost 700Nm, no one on the market is even close to that figures. Daily driving without any problems. And forgot to put OEM main seal

The old but still with us BBS CK015's and BBS levelling caps fitted below.

How do you argue that brake lights that go out when you take your foot off the pedal are "defective"?

I got the message again today about the infotainment update. While I was driving in a poor signal strength area of the Scottish borders. Needless to say it disappeared without a trace when I parked up for a few minutes at a job...

VW504 00 / 507 00 5w 30 FS III 0.5 litres first, and then as required. But that is the Dip Stick level checked with the engine at Operating Temperature, on the flat after a few minutes. So not WARM, you can see there is enough oil in when cold / warm, but have it at the top of the crosshatch at Normal Operating Temp. Do not overfill.

Thanks, lads; parts were ordered. I also ordered replacement badges and hub cap thingies to replace all the external logos to the modern logo to improve the aesthetic a bit.

Seems counter intuitive when Tesla are applying pressure on price.

This "won't rev past 3_000" thing; would this be in neutral?

@Tesla demo was out today on Lower Ln and Prescot Bypass engaged in the operation.Despite the cold the range is holding up over 260 miles. The dual motors helping it to feel planted in the icy conditions.

Why not get them wrapped as per fabill posted on 26 October: tom

I have Cross Climate 2s on 19" Xtremes for living in Scotland and like them; good enough for getting up to the ski centres. I don't think they make them in standard/factory size but 235/35/19 fits the rim fine. Some places (Costco) won't fit non-standard size so you might have to ring around places.

Car's maybe concerned that you need more exercise, so sent you to the shops? 😇 G

You are absolutely correct. The invoices did in fact say "5W30". My apologies.

Are you near a Tyre & Exhaust centre to see what they have or can get in in a few days? Easy to suggest good tyres in that size, but availability is the issue as people discover the tyres on are not good in winter conditions. ? Which country are you in and if in the UK where? These are not rubbish tyres, but i have on Vredstien Quatrac Pro,s and would not recommend them for Snowy conditions. They have been good in very wet and cold / icy conditions.

Might have been a case of the long press on the on/off switch to cause a reboot would have fixed it. Leaving it off for that long would have dropped power so it gave you a reboot itself. There is a 20 minute power count down after you close the door when the system is still live. Getting a reboot in, in that period is your reboot. Over 20 minutes it naturally does it. The infotainment systems programming isnt that brilliant so they wander into areas of memory in the unit they aren't suppose to be in so misbehave. The reboot is the restart like a long press on your Windows power button when all else fails. I've had the case of the navigation image moving 1/2" to one side after loading POIs, a reboot fixed that. Swapping map cards a reboot is handy on a mib2 standard. Often fixes the issue after swapping map cards. The one I mainly do to get it to re read the card else it doesnt know if you are swapping between cards in that 20 minute window. Map updates plus the TMC fix. Only once has it crashed / done weird things like yours.

Hello everyone I need latest MEN2_EU_SKGPX_P7381L file. My email is [email protected] I would greatly appreciate it if one can share the file with me! thanks

its a 3 sec timer, not 30 secs. i wish it was possible to set it to 30 secs!!!

Happy with stage 1+ 😌 but that's what I said last time too 🤔

Tell it to Skoda not me! They will likely be equally disinterested. I do not have an app to see anything so it cant be me that you noticed.

Someone works out effect of temperature and speed on Corsa's range/consumption: https://www.speakev.com/threads/consumption-and-range-of-an-ev-at-different-speeds-and-ambient-temperatures-case-opel-corsa-e.181655/ Might be an interesting read for you, root.

The OP has not posted age of his Yeti, but my MY16 Octavia flags up the message 'do not depress throttle when attempting to start engine' if I so much as touch the pedal during start - the ECU calculates required volume of fuel for engine start.

Factory info: " EKAGRIP 6 BOLT FLYWHEEL FRICTION DISK Originally designed for about 100 horsepower, the 6 bolt flywheel interface on the VW / Audi engines struggles when subjected to serious power. Even with ARP Flywheel bolts, this interface can become taxed and allow the flywheel to slip around under high torque. This leads to wear between the surfaces, and shortly thereafter complete failure of the bolts and joint. This ruins the flywheel and crankshaft, and can even damage the transmission bell housing. In order to fight this we had EKagrip make some of their patented nickel and diamond coated friction shims. These shims increase the friction between the two components by up to 3 times what is seen with regular steel on steel contact. This greatly increases the load which can be carried. The shims are .008" thick, and do not cause any alignment problems with the clutch / flywheel. An absolute must for any engine making 450+ ft-lb with the 6 bolt VW/Audi flywheel flange. Increases friction by up to 300% Fits all VW/Audi 6 bolt flywheels A must for high HP engines" There is also the same one for camgears.

To see airbag fault codes you need a VAG diagnostics scanner. OBD2 is purely for generic engine codes. See Gendan website for the possibilities.

I am surprised that i never see more articles on this type of action by the DVSA. I read it on AMonline about AET Motorsports in Wakefield. "Had been openly advertising illegal alterations to vehicles likely to be used on the road." notably decat exhaust systems and noise generating ECU remaps. 'The Unit's investigators then engaged then engaged AET Motorsports to carry out those modifications on Ford Fiesta ST. etc etc. I will try linking the article later, Or someone can maybe do that please. Plenty coverage comes up on the story if you look. http://evo.co.uk/news/206327/aftermarket-pop-and-bang-exhausts-to-be-made-illegal

I've a Garmin DC 46 and a short Amazon special for cable. I think it's no longer being made from looking at the Garmin website https://www.garmin.com/en-IE/p/661782

Yep it powers my GW622 fine.

Endtanks recived diffusors same as HP Performance does, to avoid heat soak in upper part of FMIC. Core is Garrett 450x307x76mm, inlets are 63mm (2.5”), welded professionally by #veskoracevar and preparing for installation, overboost pipe over driver side, return Lines to TB over passenger side. DV rerouted already because of it. Than we Will measured IATs and post them Here.

Welcome to wonderful world of electronic throttle pedals trying to second-guess your driving intent. Additionally, the Fabia's clutch and gas pedals are incredibly light which makes it harder for the brain to judge exactly where the pedals are and what commands they're sending to the vehicle. What I've found: There's an inactive spot at the top of the gas pedal travel. (The ECU sees all this movement, it just ignores it.) Beyond that zone the pedal response is very sensitive so fine foot control is required. Techniques for fine control include using the arch of the foot (which is more sensitive and moves less) or using the right of the ball of the foot with a twisting motion. The clutch goes from biting to slipping to fully enagaged roughly in the middle of the pedal's travel over a region that's smaller than you'd expect. This can be hard to judge from the lack of feedback underfoot. I suspect what's happening is as follows: You set the gas, and pull the clutch up to biting point. The car begins to accelerate and the front end lifts. You continue to lift the clutch pedal, and apply sufficient throttle to keep the engine revs level. The clutch pedal reaches a point where it's engaging more than you think, which slows down the engine a bit. Finally the clutch then engages fully, so the car's speed is suddenly locked to the engine's. The car stops accelerating and the front end dips down. The loss of acceleration is what you feel. So you can try, in combination depending upon requirements: Slow down what happens in steps 3-4 by identifying the bit of pedal travel just before full clutch engagement and slowing your left foot's movement. This gives two sides a bit more time to equalise their speeds. Apply a little more gas progressively throughout engagment, so that the car continues to accelerate throughout engagement, but with a softer edge as the car transitions to constant speed. See the note on fine pedal control above. If the car's going fast enough for it, just change to 2nd gear before fully engaging the clutch anyway. Obviously don't torture the clutch with excessive slipping or rev differences. Other considerations: As soon as the clutch starts to bite, if possible get both hands on the steering wheel and keep a good driving posture to help pedal control. Feel the car's acceleration response as it the clutch acts. Use different footwear. I'm not joking here -- anything that alters my foot sensitivity or the thickness underfoot throws out my smoothness until my brain recalibrates.

It was indeed. Sold it to a mate after I bought the 9-5 HOT Aero. Drove it several years after I sold it, and found myself wondering what on earth I was thinking to get rid of it. Dimwit! 🙄 Many happy memories - drove it up to western Scotland (Acharacle) and did the 620 miles journey on one tank, fully loaded up with a family of four. Think it's the only car I've owned that was capable of that 😎. Pre-PD too so had the simpler fuelling system that'd run on anything vaguely oily (well you know what I mean). G

Did with mine on my phone, but it was only trickling along even though it said 5G on the phone. 5G in the UK is pretty crap and unless you happen to live near something like the University of Surrey with its Space Labs and Satellite technology centre you're going to get poor speed, at home I don't even get 4G. If I want to pay £49 pcm I can have a 1Gbps U&D Internet connection, which would demolish 9Gb in a matter of seconds.

Moon is 95% full this evening

We were a little later getting out tonight........

April 2023 turned into an expencive month. . Protrack ONE wheels. 😍 18 x 8j et45 in gloss silver. Paired with Michelin pilot sport 5 (Again) These save just over 3kg per corner vs the oem Geminis 🙌 Got them coated with Carbon collective platinum wheels (Amazing wheel sealant- used it on 4/5 sets now) I went with silver wheels, because they have become one of the least used wheel colours in recent times, I don't like black wheels (they just make your tyres look grey unless you constantly dress them) and i wanted to go with a touring car kinda vibe with the car. . . .Anyway. On the car. . 🤌 Initially I was scared staying 18s and going multi-spoke would make them look too small for the car, but they didn't Imo.

I forgot I posted this and only came back to it earlier this week. In short - thank you very much. I had a Carista dongle I bought ages ago so subscribed to the app for a month and changed the setting today. It drives like a different car. Feels like it’s got about 30 extra horsepower.