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@9737u50 - varying alternator voltages are normal with the micro-hybrid energy system, with battery charging intended to be primarily from energy recuperation during coasting and braking. The battery will typically be charged to around 75-80% by the alternator using engine power - leaving capacity for energy recuperation.

Battery off load voltage is not a good indication of battery condition - an old battery that has high internal resistance can still read 12V off load but be unable to start the engine.

This Norwegian garage took apart a submerged M3 battery and it's very interesting to see what goes on inside the failed battery. They concluded they need 2 more modules out of 4 in total, so it was not worth repairing. I'm sure the usable modules will be kept for other vehicle though. Suspected cause for submerged battery failure is due to breather thingy letting water in. (video starts at that point) Shame Tesla uses so much glue in their battery and must replace modules, 4 huge modules in this pack. Nissan Leaf, of course one of simplest EV, can easily replace stuff right down to individual cells. (earlier video in this channel had repaired a 2011 Leaf)

Their economic model is just uneconomic. Their production technology overtaken by China and TESLA. The 21st century is the Asian century. Europe still has a lead in Aerospace but that is about the last industrial area left to go East.

That makes them not being truthful as putting green energy onto the Grid is absolutely NOT the same as being supplied exclusively with green energy. So many people have little or no understanding of how the Grid works that companies can get away with telling untruths, even some Chartered Electrical Engineers I have worked with don't understand the difference.

When the battery was fitted was it coded ? yes I know you will say you don't know well check if it is coded ! Also with your problems check the earths, on the Alternator side of things

Heat. It cost a fortune to do this from Dinorwig to the National Grid as Snowdonian national park demanded the cables were buried to not spoil the park.

Still a lot of the Toyota Prius on the road, especially around this area of England, close to London it makes an ideal commuting car I understand. At one time it seemed to be the company car of choice for to reduce their tax burden as it lower tax penalty for them. The dash on that Vauxhall Ampera is just horrible and is like so many modern cars, incorporating so many controls into its touch screen is just a recipe for disaster as you cannot operate it without looking at it. Its just as dangerous as using a mobile phone hand held while driving, give me conventional switches and knobs any day please. TBH, some of the controls on the MK3 Superb are now integrated into the screen and I find them so hard to use, as you said, left-handed, go over a stone in the road and your finger misses the touch sensitive button and operates something else instead.👎

Good if the bodies last and the engines and it is batteries just needing replaced.

What drivers want with EVs is Cheaper, Easier, Quicker one presumes...

After all that it turns out it was the ignition switch. First instinct was right 🙄. There must be multiple circuits in the switch so while the accessories, fan, etc were working the contact for the actual ignition must have been faulty. New switch and all is good. The old switch was a right pain to get out. Supposedly you put two small screwdrivers down the side of the switch to release the tabs that hold it in but there is no room to do that in situ. Managed to get some Allen keys in, felt like they were on the tabs, but no amount of wiggling would release the tabs. After some more leverage the switch broke in two and eventually came out. New one went in easily, fired up first go.

It has been a while since i have posted and did a few things to the vRS in the meantime: -Changed the chrome mat carbon fiber tape wraped grill frame with a gloss black one. Its a 5 minite job after a 2 hour hustle of removing the burned in original grill without damaging the car paint. At the end, the easiest way was to snap the loops that hook to the car with a pair of pliers from the inside. -Plexiclick holders for the plates. Frameless plates realy do clean up the look of the car. -Gloss black front splitter. Was originali thinking about the Maxton V1 but got the V4 as a gift (later found out its a V2 for the mk3.5 but it fits great). I was scared it would look to riced but i actually like how agressive and lower it looks now.

Given that production is coming to an end on the MkI they’re probably running out of steering wheels, so you’ve had a free upgrade?

I may be wrong (i have been before) But I don't think the fibre being put down in your road/pavement is for your current provider to use. It is a competitor We had city fibre dig up all our streets and then leaflet drop us to switchover We now have another firm erecting dinosaur telegraph poles and running a cable in the air and doing the same. My understanding is the your copper cable will not be changed to your house unless you pay for it and BT and suppliers who use their network will carry on supplying your broadband as they do now, fibre to the street and copper to the house. The telephone will be disabled unless it runs through the router with an adaptor. Your existing landline phone will still work after the switchover, the only difference will be that your phone connects to your broadband router via an adapter. While the change in infrastructure is a huge undertaking, most end users won't have to do much. In fact, the official guidance from Ofcom is that your phone provider should supply you with an adapter. The four main phone providers- BT, Virgin, Sky, and TalkTalk- have all said they will do so, and you can find links to their statements on the switchover process at the end of this article. These four companies provide 85% of the UK's landline service. If you are in the remaining 15%, we recommend contacting your provider to find out if they will be supplying customers with adapters too.

Non OE units are far cheaper at £150 per pair and, of course, are made by the OE suppliers.

Sky news running a good story today on the National Grid. How they are having the Gas Fired Power stations generating electricity while it could come from Battery Farms which are sitting redundant and the wind farm turbines are not producing as the electricity not needed for the batteries. National Grid working on it. Just keeping producing the emissions. London needs the new pylons down the length of the UK to feed it,s electricity. Farm land wasted, if no pylons the cost of electricity will rise. Well double the tariffs for London and half them for those with electricity generated within 10 miles of them. @lol-lolMaybe the guy sitting charging was away to tow a trailer or happy to run 30 miles for £6.15 after sitting 30-45 minutes, or just experimenting to see how good the fuel economy is with the battery charged. Next time i see him charging if i do i will ask. Bottom vid. A Skoda Superb iV / PHEV.

Over 20p per mile, no wonder few bother to plug in their PHEV, it is just a tax dodging wheeze. Who is going to plug in when the effort bring zero to little reward.

It is very hard to find the actual truth as on the owner forums one reads pages of complaints and hybrid versions but much less about the mild hybrid ie versions without the motive element of hybrid, my mild hybrid Arkana only does coasting and that is it. The mild hybrid is substantially quicker in accelerating, weighs 100 kgs less but it does 10 mpg less. But then much of the complaints of the full hybrid are not about the drive train but other areas of electronics oddly. We have the full hybrid in the Clio etech we have which is very pleasant to drive with the electric motors, yes two of them, adding quite a shove at low revs where the naturally aspirated 1.6 engine would not have the torque. In the mass produced Clio the etech works very well. MPG is in the upper 50s and my lad drives it with no real thought about being economical. Renault have decided to bring back the little 1 litre engined module after dropping it because Ford have stopped selling the Fiesta. The car market is quite screwy really. One reason I bought the Arkana mild hybrid is that I have a petrol fuel card but company will not provide an Allstar EV charging card so I am better off using a fuel card, effectively paying 30p a litre for fuel and this keeps me having a petrol car This will finally change when we get the Salary sacrifice system going and I can get a model 3 for sub £40k and 3 hundred and something pounds monthly payments. Hybrid, the full type. also lose quite a lot of boot space ie nearly 100 litres, in the case of the Clio, which is nearly quarter of the boot space. Zoe has more boot space than the Clio ETECH. Can get 80 mpg out of the Clio ETECH but one has to hypermile the hell out of it to do so. With petrol at about £1.40 a litre not much incentive to be frugal. Choice of car is more complex that most people might think. Best not to under estimate the massive attraction of salary sacrifice on EVs and this is why, I think, we see a lot for EVs and hybrids than once might expect ie UK government tax breaks via salary sacrifice and the taxation rules around CO2. The CO2 one is not well targeted in my view as CO2 figures for PHEVs are just crazy low numbers and not at all close to reality ie 100 and 200 mpg. Nonsense.

Doubt that will happen. As a driver of an early turbo diesel 4x4 for very many years (no dump valve), the practice became established. In more recent times I've had a couple of modern small petrol turbo's including this one, but the habit is still there. I'm not entirely sure we have a dump valve per se in these VAG engines, but rather a recirculating by-pass or diverter valve, which may explain the absence of that irritating sound of excess pressure being vented to the atmosphere. I haven't had the inclination to delve deeper into these little machines, but that's my suspicion. Anyway, changing what can only be described as a harmless procedure that may even help to mitigate the impact of a leaking or otherwise failing Dump or Diverter valve can only be a good thing. Each to his own, live and let live, etc.....

Just saying ‘the battery tests okay’ is not massively helpful as many will now skip over the battery without wondering it if it truly okay. what kind of test was done? When was the test done? What equipment was used? What were the specific results of the test? An example could be the battery tests okay - with a multimeter - at 13.8V - 5 seconds after the car has been switched off. it doesn’t test the battery properly nor paint a complete picture of the batteries health so is a false diagnosis. If a good test has been done and the battery is still dying then a current drain test is next using a non invasive method - if you do the old school method of pulling fuses and putting an ammeter in place the vehicle will be constantly woken/activated by different canbus modules. An inductive current clamp or thermal imager is the only correct way to accurately monitor any current draws but before that the battery, charging and driving style need to be confirmed as good.

He probably did not register the words "small capacity", an over the top response nonetheless but we all have our bad days.

You are both essentially saying the same thing, more people on green tariff makes it uneconomical and/or supplier use non-green to maximise profit. I agree and I cannot guarantee there is no greenwashing with all green tariffs without in-depth digging into their finances and reviewing their green accreditation. If you want to prove your theories, I suggest finding out how they gained their green accreditation would be the first place to start. I was only pointing out the method of paying green generators in green tariff is exactly how energy market works. There is no point tracing the exact energy source.

But if they sign more people up for "green tariffs" than the amount of green energy generated that would be fraud?

👍 @Hussar175 the phone doesn't have to be in the car just within reception so the green bar might be there when the car is parked at home but disappear if the phone is (quite rightly) left at home and you have driven away from home. There are other waning lights and messages to let you know you have let the car battery get too low, and more unexpected lights if you let the battery get far too low or low and using a lot of electric, well with a start/stop car at least.

<joke> No, because he's got a manual gearbox! </joke> That would be funny though 🤣.

Apologies if this has already been posted

Insulating ultra high voltage cables to put underground for great lengths would be cost prohibitive. The cables between pylons are bare for heat dissipation?

i was thinking of running parallel lines to all of them i will try and post a update latter to see if this sloves the problem

Unless you have a separate connection from the green generator then this statement is always untrue. The National Grid cannot guarantee that green generated electricity goes to customers paying a green tariff, all they can guarantee is that you are paying to put green energy ONTO the National Grid but cannot guarantee that you will be SUPPLIED with green energy.

That was the reason, €2K for a new battery, €800 for a 22 year old second hand one where the donor vehicle had travelled 267000 kms plus delivery from Holland plus fitting. They are cheap to register though.

This was my point a while ago, while we all discussing the point that many companies were claiming that you would be supplied with green renewable energy. Some so-called green tariffs were actually more expensive per KWH. I had my doubts, knowing how large businesses operate, ducking and diving to make the maximum profit for their shareholders. I wonder just how many EV owners and drivers are driving around, especially here in England with a smug feeling, in the belief that they are doing their bit towards the planet when in reality they are currently making it worse?

Yes, thats the one, and yes I recall it doing what was said on the tin, no stories or controversies around it like todays EV's, exactly what I would expect of Toyota. Thats why it is so weird that I no longer see them, the owners may have moved onto newer vehicles but surely they were sought after second hand?

Leaving the dial not in the upright position is a sin! Well, as far as I'm concerned is it. It might just be because of my somewhat messed up brain though.

A lifetime warranty will be against manufacturing defects. The cracking you are experiencing is one of 2 causes; Environmental factors - such as strong car cleaning chemicals Rubber quality - newer tyres are often made using different process including a harder/softer compound more prone to cracking but with the benefit of noise reduction and better fuel efficency. Either way, goodyear will say something very similar to the above and kick you out the door. My Pirelli P7's after 3 years were cracked to pieces and from a MOT point of view, unless cords are exposed, its not a fail.

a work colleague has been running a peugeot 2008 ev for 3 years and has just traded it in for a Nissan Juke mhev. he liked the Pug said it was brilliant for coming to work but not good if he wanted to go anywhere.

I think it depends on what the update is, so do it in the back ground and others I think you have to sit and wait (as such) but to look at the up dates, have a look at the Infotainment screen and just below is a line of switches (cannot remember what is on it) but its about centre of the screen just press it with the ign on and it will give some info to say if a up date is available. I got one pop up last night and I clicked OK and when it had done it just said "it will take affect next time I start the car"

To some extent this is making a problem. If your only need of the map memory stick is for emergency use if mobile maps fail (can't get signal etc), then doesn't need to be plugged in all the time. It's sort of got same status as keeping road Atlas map book. Only needs to be in the car, not available continuously, just has to be there for backup. I don't see why it needs to be permanently running in shadow mode.

Do stand alone auto electricians still exist, given these days cars are cram-packed full of electronics and ECU’s? I’m just guessing without the manufacturers diagnostic equipment they’d get nowhere with their “diagnosis”.

No, a splitter will not work in the front to give you extra data ports. If you attach a splitter to a normal desktop or laptop the system will install special software in order to recognise the device. It's not just a mechanical switch, it has internal electronics to enable the multiple ports to each have their own 'address'. Unless Skoda have preprogrammed the infotainment centre to recognise a splitter, you are shafted. However, as the rear ports are for charging only, they might just accept a splitter, though the charging current available will be shared.

Wait, what?! 😂

Last time it did it, about 12K miles. Run almost exclusively on Shell VPower E5. Using adaptive cruise, car would try to labour up a hill at about 40 mph in 7th gear behind another vehicle - hit left paddle to shift down and straight away EPC and limp. Many miles of separate cruise, agressive booting and manual shifting and nothing. It's only downshift in cruise when I thought the gear being held was way too high that's ever produced the fault.

https://youtu.be/8g_GeQR8fJo?t=20

Outcome of this was The red purple wire (Fuse SB28 (10A) on pin 6 of T14a (14 way connector on p/s inner wing suspension tower) is indeed a key controlled + all be it with a delay off by about a minute, I've tapped in to it (max draw for existing circuit 3.75A, max draw by valve control 2.5A) so electrically fine. All operates as expected many thanks for the assistance

In case this helps anyone searching for issues, the coolant temp sensor tucked away on the head seems to have been the cause of this. Coolant had leaked here and damaged wiring - a new sensor has fixed the cold start issues completely.

You won't find a legit copy for free. You can buy the official ones at https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do An hour's subscription is around €10 and is usually enough to grab everything.

I've got a ttv4 coming off my 280 in a month or so. Being replaced with a ttv5. lol

I've got the Milltek non-resonated system. It sounds great, isn't too loud and it doesn't have an annoying drone. The only time I really notice the sound is when I'm making serious progress down the motorway. Untitled video - Made with Clipchamp (2).mp4

It tells you how to open the trim to do that when in P and locked and how to unlock. As to just because you want to and not getting into the guts then no. You can park the car and leave it in N, and restart in N as long as it is not Minus 8 degrees Celcius or lower.

So theyre always cryptic with exactly as to what they've done and I've also slept since then I believe you need the SOS module firmware update as well as the 1941 software update, if that doesn't take then they need to replace it, but that usually requires authorsiation from skoda.