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@9737u50 - varying alternator voltages are normal with the micro-hybrid energy system, with battery charging intended to be primarily from energy recuperation during coasting and braking. The battery will typically be charged to around 75-80% by the alternator using engine power - leaving capacity for energy recuperation.

Battery off load voltage is not a good indication of battery condition - an old battery that has high internal resistance can still read 12V off load but be unable to start the engine.

This Norwegian garage took apart a submerged M3 battery and it's very interesting to see what goes on inside the failed battery. They concluded they need 2 more modules out of 4 in total, so it was not worth repairing. I'm sure the usable modules will be kept for other vehicle though. Suspected cause for submerged battery failure is due to breather thingy letting water in. (video starts at that point) Shame Tesla uses so much glue in their battery and must replace modules, 4 huge modules in this pack. Nissan Leaf, of course one of simplest EV, can easily replace stuff right down to individual cells. (earlier video in this channel had repaired a 2011 Leaf)

Their economic model is just uneconomic. Their production technology overtaken by China and TESLA. The 21st century is the Asian century. Europe still has a lead in Aerospace but that is about the last industrial area left to go East.

That makes them not being truthful as putting green energy onto the Grid is absolutely NOT the same as being supplied exclusively with green energy. So many people have little or no understanding of how the Grid works that companies can get away with telling untruths, even some Chartered Electrical Engineers I have worked with don't understand the difference.

When the battery was fitted was it coded ? yes I know you will say you don't know well check if it is coded ! Also with your problems check the earths, on the Alternator side of things

Heat. It cost a fortune to do this from Dinorwig to the National Grid as Snowdonian national park demanded the cables were buried to not spoil the park.

Still a lot of the Toyota Prius on the road, especially around this area of England, close to London it makes an ideal commuting car I understand. At one time it seemed to be the company car of choice for to reduce their tax burden as it lower tax penalty for them. The dash on that Vauxhall Ampera is just horrible and is like so many modern cars, incorporating so many controls into its touch screen is just a recipe for disaster as you cannot operate it without looking at it. Its just as dangerous as using a mobile phone hand held while driving, give me conventional switches and knobs any day please. TBH, some of the controls on the MK3 Superb are now integrated into the screen and I find them so hard to use, as you said, left-handed, go over a stone in the road and your finger misses the touch sensitive button and operates something else instead.👎

Good if the bodies last and the engines and it is batteries just needing replaced.

What drivers want with EVs is Cheaper, Easier, Quicker one presumes...

After all that it turns out it was the ignition switch. First instinct was right 🙄. There must be multiple circuits in the switch so while the accessories, fan, etc were working the contact for the actual ignition must have been faulty. New switch and all is good. The old switch was a right pain to get out. Supposedly you put two small screwdrivers down the side of the switch to release the tabs that hold it in but there is no room to do that in situ. Managed to get some Allen keys in, felt like they were on the tabs, but no amount of wiggling would release the tabs. After some more leverage the switch broke in two and eventually came out. New one went in easily, fired up first go.

It has been a while since i have posted and did a few things to the vRS in the meantime: -Changed the chrome mat carbon fiber tape wraped grill frame with a gloss black one. Its a 5 minite job after a 2 hour hustle of removing the burned in original grill without damaging the car paint. At the end, the easiest way was to snap the loops that hook to the car with a pair of pliers from the inside. -Plexiclick holders for the plates. Frameless plates realy do clean up the look of the car. -Gloss black front splitter. Was originali thinking about the Maxton V1 but got the V4 as a gift (later found out its a V2 for the mk3.5 but it fits great). I was scared it would look to riced but i actually like how agressive and lower it looks now.

Given that production is coming to an end on the MkI they’re probably running out of steering wheels, so you’ve had a free upgrade?

I may be wrong (i have been before) But I don't think the fibre being put down in your road/pavement is for your current provider to use. It is a competitor We had city fibre dig up all our streets and then leaflet drop us to switchover We now have another firm erecting dinosaur telegraph poles and running a cable in the air and doing the same. My understanding is the your copper cable will not be changed to your house unless you pay for it and BT and suppliers who use their network will carry on supplying your broadband as they do now, fibre to the street and copper to the house. The telephone will be disabled unless it runs through the router with an adaptor. Your existing landline phone will still work after the switchover, the only difference will be that your phone connects to your broadband router via an adapter. While the change in infrastructure is a huge undertaking, most end users won't have to do much. In fact, the official guidance from Ofcom is that your phone provider should supply you with an adapter. The four main phone providers- BT, Virgin, Sky, and TalkTalk- have all said they will do so, and you can find links to their statements on the switchover process at the end of this article. These four companies provide 85% of the UK's landline service. If you are in the remaining 15%, we recommend contacting your provider to find out if they will be supplying customers with adapters too.

Non OE units are far cheaper at £150 per pair and, of course, are made by the OE suppliers.

Sky news running a good story today on the National Grid. How they are having the Gas Fired Power stations generating electricity while it could come from Battery Farms which are sitting redundant and the wind farm turbines are not producing as the electricity not needed for the batteries. National Grid working on it. Just keeping producing the emissions. London needs the new pylons down the length of the UK to feed it,s electricity. Farm land wasted, if no pylons the cost of electricity will rise. Well double the tariffs for London and half them for those with electricity generated within 10 miles of them. @lol-lolMaybe the guy sitting charging was away to tow a trailer or happy to run 30 miles for £6.15 after sitting 30-45 minutes, or just experimenting to see how good the fuel economy is with the battery charged. Next time i see him charging if i do i will ask. Bottom vid. A Skoda Superb iV / PHEV.

Over 20p per mile, no wonder few bother to plug in their PHEV, it is just a tax dodging wheeze. Who is going to plug in when the effort bring zero to little reward.

It is very hard to find the actual truth as on the owner forums one reads pages of complaints and hybrid versions but much less about the mild hybrid ie versions without the motive element of hybrid, my mild hybrid Arkana only does coasting and that is it. The mild hybrid is substantially quicker in accelerating, weighs 100 kgs less but it does 10 mpg less. But then much of the complaints of the full hybrid are not about the drive train but other areas of electronics oddly. We have the full hybrid in the Clio etech we have which is very pleasant to drive with the electric motors, yes two of them, adding quite a shove at low revs where the naturally aspirated 1.6 engine would not have the torque. In the mass produced Clio the etech works very well. MPG is in the upper 50s and my lad drives it with no real thought about being economical. Renault have decided to bring back the little 1 litre engined module after dropping it because Ford have stopped selling the Fiesta. The car market is quite screwy really. One reason I bought the Arkana mild hybrid is that I have a petrol fuel card but company will not provide an Allstar EV charging card so I am better off using a fuel card, effectively paying 30p a litre for fuel and this keeps me having a petrol car This will finally change when we get the Salary sacrifice system going and I can get a model 3 for sub £40k and 3 hundred and something pounds monthly payments. Hybrid, the full type. also lose quite a lot of boot space ie nearly 100 litres, in the case of the Clio, which is nearly quarter of the boot space. Zoe has more boot space than the Clio ETECH. Can get 80 mpg out of the Clio ETECH but one has to hypermile the hell out of it to do so. With petrol at about £1.40 a litre not much incentive to be frugal. Choice of car is more complex that most people might think. Best not to under estimate the massive attraction of salary sacrifice on EVs and this is why, I think, we see a lot for EVs and hybrids than once might expect ie UK government tax breaks via salary sacrifice and the taxation rules around CO2. The CO2 one is not well targeted in my view as CO2 figures for PHEVs are just crazy low numbers and not at all close to reality ie 100 and 200 mpg. Nonsense.

Doubt that will happen. As a driver of an early turbo diesel 4x4 for very many years (no dump valve), the practice became established. In more recent times I've had a couple of modern small petrol turbo's including this one, but the habit is still there. I'm not entirely sure we have a dump valve per se in these VAG engines, but rather a recirculating by-pass or diverter valve, which may explain the absence of that irritating sound of excess pressure being vented to the atmosphere. I haven't had the inclination to delve deeper into these little machines, but that's my suspicion. Anyway, changing what can only be described as a harmless procedure that may even help to mitigate the impact of a leaking or otherwise failing Dump or Diverter valve can only be a good thing. Each to his own, live and let live, etc.....

Just saying ‘the battery tests okay’ is not massively helpful as many will now skip over the battery without wondering it if it truly okay. what kind of test was done? When was the test done? What equipment was used? What were the specific results of the test? An example could be the battery tests okay - with a multimeter - at 13.8V - 5 seconds after the car has been switched off. it doesn’t test the battery properly nor paint a complete picture of the batteries health so is a false diagnosis. If a good test has been done and the battery is still dying then a current drain test is next using a non invasive method - if you do the old school method of pulling fuses and putting an ammeter in place the vehicle will be constantly woken/activated by different canbus modules. An inductive current clamp or thermal imager is the only correct way to accurately monitor any current draws but before that the battery, charging and driving style need to be confirmed as good.

He probably did not register the words "small capacity", an over the top response nonetheless but we all have our bad days.

Sounds like clutch stuck to flywheel due to driving through puddle. . Try selecting gear start engine when car lurches forward press clutch and slam on foot brake or handbrake and clutch should release

👍 @Hussar175 the phone doesn't have to be in the car just within reception so the green bar might be there when the car is parked at home but disappear if the phone is (quite rightly) left at home and you have driven away from home. There are other waning lights and messages to let you know you have let the car battery get too low, and more unexpected lights if you let the battery get far too low or low and using a lot of electric, well with a start/stop car at least.

Is this on a Fabia III or your Octavia? Is it the state of your mobile phone battery? This only shows when your phone is connected to the infotainment system. Thanks. AG Falco

It depends on which lights you have installed. With halogen you can change more than with xenon. And xenon is actually supposed to be made by the workshop, so it's probably not listed in the BA. Although it's the same principle. But everyone can do what they want. I already have the second burner in there, so I know it and also know how it works.

+1 And there lies the problem with any part that's subject to wear and tear; how do you prove the car was properly driven? What would I do? I'm assuming the above is a manual transmission? Just to confirm, we're not talking about a DSG are we? 1st thing would be to establish the problem. Has the garage not said what diagnostics they've carried out to establish the need for a gearbox removal? The car should be able to drive away in 2nd gear - has anyone tried that? As the car is at the dealer and isn't drivable then I'm not sure what other options are open to you other than have that dealer look at the issue. But I'd certainly make them aware that I want all faulty parts retained as they'd need to be checked by a 3rd party to make sure they weren't faulty from manufacture. I'd also get quotes from other local indi's on how much it would be to replace the clutch on your car and if substantially cheaper, I'd present them to your main dealer. ( price match if not already covered by warranty? ) I'm defo not one of those above who call dealers 'stealers' ( the ones that do tend not to have new'ish Skodas and therefore have no experience of using dealers - they rely only on prejudice). You'll get good dealers and you'll get bad dealers - same as everything in life, but they're not all the same. I'm certainly not reading your problem like some others have. To be fair to the dealer and Skoda, how can anyone determine the car be repaired under warranty if they don't know what the problem is? 🤪 As my recent experience with brakes proved, the main dealer wasn't much more expensive than the vast majority of the fast-fit centres and was actually cheaper than a few local indi's recommended in the good garage guide. I managed to fix my issue by shopping around but to do I knew what the exact problem was. So that's your first goal. I have to say it doesn't sound like a clutch if the only issue is not getting into 1st. Master cylinder perhaps? If it were a clutch issue then I'd have thought it would have been apparent over a period of time - it normally wouldn't fail just like that. hope that helps.

Hardly an explicit set of instructions and can see the opportunity for confusion. FWIW, my interpretation is that it could take a while to update the whole map dataset hence the recommendation to leave the flash drive plugged. Not sure I have any idea how long 'a while' is though. If it were me, I'd do it on a trip to the in-laws some 300 miles away rather than a run to the local supermarket. If you're not doing any/many long trips maybe just leave it in the port for a few weeks and check the Nav Db dates periodically to if/when it's updated; it'd only need to be once a year or so.

Buy some from Osram. Regardless of whether it is a xenon burner or another lamp, it is significantly cheaper than the original.

Unlike some, I don't profess to know everything and I have never been involved with power generation/transmission. If a cable runs hot then its a power loss and is something I would not have expected in the national grid as they need to generate more power to negate the losses.

The only reason I can think of for a diesel is to tow where the low down torque and the extra weight of a diesel is actual a plus. Fuel tanks are becoming smaller and smaller. My old A4 had something like a 67 litre tank. Saw 980 miles on the range, 1.9 PD engine, noisy but good. With decent hybrid lecky assistance the torque is impressive but system will not allow that assistance to apply for more than a few seconds. No good for towing a rig up Holden/ Telegraph hill which will take a minute or two of sustained torque/power to rise up from the Exe flood plain to the piedmont of Dartmoor.

I've bought these one in a local store for less than 25€ ~6 years ago. https://www.amazon.de/Waterproof-Staubdicht-Protection-Transport-Durchmesser/dp/B0BCVYVMM5/ref=pd_vtp_h_pd_vtp_h_d_sccl_6/260-8300844-1521009?pd_rd_w=2AEuc&content-id=amzn1.sym.09878bf4-d830-4bd8-80b8-f712ac9b230b&pf_rd_p=09878bf4-d830-4bd8-80b8-f712ac9b230b&pf_rd_r=9KTCGRAN7GEKT7SNMT7B&pd_rd_wg=P40Lx&pd_rd_r=0a08c8e8-f5a2-44d8-8be8-71bc71622ae9&pd_rd_i=B0BCVYVMM5&th=1 Viewing which wheel (where it goes / comes from) without unpacking the wheel makes it easier.

I now better understand the joke, when some of you guys write "main stealer"...😁

i was thinking of running parallel lines to all of them i will try and post a update latter to see if this sloves the problem

That was the reason, €2K for a new battery, €800 for a 22 year old second hand one where the donor vehicle had travelled 267000 kms plus delivery from Holland plus fitting. They are cheap to register though.

Honda Insight hybrid? The hypermile king. Toyota Prius hybrid, London Uber driver's favourite before Niro EV took over in recent years. I don't remember Nissan made anything specially "green" until Nissan Leaf.

I don't think it is just a matter of plugging it in, I think you will have to install them

I think it depends on what the update is, so do it in the back ground and others I think you have to sit and wait (as such) but to look at the up dates, have a look at the Infotainment screen and just below is a line of switches (cannot remember what is on it) but its about centre of the screen just press it with the ign on and it will give some info to say if a up date is available. I got one pop up last night and I clicked OK and when it had done it just said "it will take affect next time I start the car"

If Land/Range Rover guy has a fuel card then he may not be so bothered about cost. Apparently Fuel cards account for £16B of fuel bought out of the £40B or so which is nearly half and probably a lot higher than many might think. Also I doubt most people do not know that that fuel bought is not paid for a the pump price shown as fuel card companies charge the card holding company a bit less than the displayed price and the agreement the fuel card company has with the fuel sellers. Much diesel used is actually sold in bulk to transport companies who also get a discounted price. My uncle ran Cornwall's largest trucking company 50-odd artics, and would buy the diesel in bulk for his own tanks at the depot, diesel company cars also got filled from there I think. The eleventh commandment. Never pay retail. Octopus Elecktroverse card helps me do that with public charging as well as a hydrocarbon fuel card for the dino juice mode for my "mild" ie hardly at all, hybrid Arkana. Looking forward to the Rafela launch next year. Over 60 mpg, 700 mile range, low emissions. Might be a tough choice between this and a Model 3 or Y.

Thanks @Lee. ( Was about to join anyway for greater access to tech help. )

I doubt what I suggest is the cause but MkI Fabia's had a common fault where the alternator load sensor wire failed resulting in not keeping the battery charged sufficiently. It's worth considering as from memory it was a relatively simple and cheap fix.

I personally think it's a mistake to for parallel hybrid to have capacity to charge on rapid chargers. Especially with such a small battery on that huge vehicle. Its main EV mode use is local. When going further afield, it's not going to be able to rely on battery for meaningful distance or driving power with just 107 hp under powered motor. Satnav would have the ability to keep charge until in city traffic, so what's the point of rapid charging on a mostly petrol vehicle? 32 kW is terrible rate for a new vehicle, and in real life it's not even getting that! My 9 yo Leaf with just 18 kWh capacity can still charge at 48 kW. These days, serial hybrid should be minimum for PHEV. Then there is a point for rapid charging, just like the 22 kWh i3 REx.

You won't find a legit copy for free. You can buy the official ones at https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do An hour's subscription is around €10 and is usually enough to grab everything.

Updated with a 3rd Price drop to £1,700 without the spare set of wheels, £1,800 with...

Hello there! here a new user, fantastic car. I think, to drive something with such a good quality of driving, smoothness, comfort, silence... you need to spend a serious amount of money and go for BMW Serie 5, MB E Class, Audi A6, Volvo S90... I was considering a Passat GTE variant (twin brother of this superb, same plug in engine). But the space is much better in the Skoda and the build quality is, at least the same as the "premium" VW, if not superior... Its a 2020 Superb combi iv.

Damp sensor used in production although Lord knows why, they can also be found on the floorpans beside the cills. Worrying that a vehicle built inside a state of the art factory requires damp sensors, perhaps the days of bodyshells being left in fields to rust are not yet behind us.

I've got the Milltek non-resonated system. It sounds great, isn't too loud and it doesn't have an annoying drone. The only time I really notice the sound is when I'm making serious progress down the motorway. Untitled video - Made with Clipchamp (2).mp4

Hi Moribund, I'm embarrassed to admit that my problem was in fact my own ignorance. My old Octavia only had one temperature dial and the new one has temperature control on the left and on the right. Everything else was a red herring. Apologies if this doesn't solve your problem. All the best, Nick

It tells you how to open the trim to do that when in P and locked and how to unlock. As to just because you want to and not getting into the guts then no. You can park the car and leave it in N, and restart in N as long as it is not Minus 8 degrees Celcius or lower.

All Skodas that use five wheel bolts per wheel, use the same M14x1.5x27 wheel bolts, with OEM part number WHT001812.

I know it has been a long time since this thread was used, but I recently had to change my right hand mirror indicator repeater unit. Having read through the thread it was still unclear how the wiring connector should be removed. If it helps anyone else, I found that inserting the 'tail' of an unused small pop rivet fully into the rectangular hole shown in DensYeti's picture above, the connector virtually fell apart. Hope this may help someone having a similar problem.