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There literally is nothing quite like an old V8 Jaguar 👍

Pretty sure that's normally on the B-pillar, probably on the passenger side. You'll need to open the front passenger door to find it. Should be similar to this: Where the towing weight would be the second number minus the first. So in the example above, 3460kg - 1960kg to give 1500kg max towing weight.

So to close this out for others future reference I bought a replacement sensor and fitted this and (annoyingly) the issue remained. In the end the cause was the loom where it passes through the bellows between the door and the body. The yellow wire had developed an intermittent break in the previous repair which manifested depending on the positioning of the wires, hence why they showed a good resistance but also caused a fault to be thrown as opening and closing the door caused the break to open up and break the circuit. The conclusion of this for others future reference from this experience is that the impact sensors in the door are likely to outlast the wiring in the door and to manipulate the door loom when assessing if it is the cause of the fault. D

Couldn't resist a gratuitous photo of my not an X-type 😁

You get the same when charging on Public chargers. Losses from what the Battery Capacity is and the Useable, then what you are charged for electricity taken and what the car or apps shows you use. The Battery is only 32.6 kWh and 28.9 kWh usable and it was showing as having 20% when charging started. @lol-lolcommented in another post that the 5% loss from the car and the houses meter was not bad. Then there is the kWh and the battery charged, and if the battery is having to be heated while charging there is that electricity used, or heating the cars interior, or pre heating the car before leaving is using electricity from the mains but not charging the battery. Waiting on my new Smart Meter, they have been telling me for 15 years i need a new meter and am legally required to have one. At some point about 10 years ago i had to checked and it was fine.

28 v 34kWh. Interesting. Over 17% difference. Domestic meters are certified accurate better than 2% for Class A in the worst case. So that looks as if figures given by EV board computers are no more accurate than ICE cars. Strange how they are always on the optimistic side. I would think electricity consumption should be easy to measure accurately. This suggests that drivers are being fooled by their EVs, miles per kwh, kwh charge etc. Not many would think to cross check their car against their home meter.

Thank you, so useful as i have been cold often when charging as i had not changed to that setting. *Vid shows in title -3* oC % then he is talking about 3* oC, a difference of 6 degrees celcius right there even if he shows a screen with weather @ -4*oC* As to charging below 0*oC or above or lots above it is all pretty much of a muchness as i have experienced and with a cold battery or a battery that has just been running 100 miles makes very little difference. Chargers are very very different though. As to hotter ambient temps i have found charging slower up above 20*oC the few times i charged in the sun, it throttles back more to not overheat. Yesterday was warmish about 10*oC and i did 97 miles from 100% and got home with 21% and 20 miles range showing and the car saying 3.8 miles a kw/h. Charged on the 3 pin and the car says it took 28 kWh, and the meter for the house says 34 kWh. (@21 pence a kWh = £7.14) (12 hours 6 minutes charging, 16.25 - 04.29 am) Warmer this morning, 100% and 107 miles. Drove 2 x 2 miles, going down hill getting 6 miles a kWh, and back up showing 4.2 miles a kWh. and oddly car showing 100% and 103 miles. Narrower All Season tyres Maxxis AP III Premitra and narrower 16" rims instead of 17" going on on Wednesday and then a good few hundred miles to do after that but looks like being back to colder weather. (That will be good for comparison to the same charger to charger trips in the same temperatures on the Vredstein tyres and the Maxxis, a few extra miles range would be nice, even 5 miles...That can make a big difference really about touching cloth or not.) ................ The one in the Video is a Pre-face change car, it has Fog lights, first registered in Scotland. (Edinburgh) I see from his other Vid it has Matrix headlights, mine does not.

Exactly. I'm surprised this topic has generated 3 pages. Nobody with a 1.5 has contributed, so the OP hasn't got his answer yet.

I was assuming maybe wrongly that @barnsleyboy being a nosy neighbour and a road captain like me, would have already been on Ask MID to see the car is insured if not the driver and looked at the MOT status.

On what? The only question you have asked is do people agree with your suspicions.

I was being cynical and sarcastic, I really wanted you to prove me wrong. It has taken me a long time for the penny to finally drop that most of the frustrating E-mail exchanges I have had in recent years with (not) people in companies that seem to completely miss the point and use annoying platitudes like "have a great day!" and "thank you for reaching out to us" have been bots, I just had not realised how advanced they had become and yet despite that they are still light years away from being even semi-competent. It coincided with the phase when you could never get through on the phone lines and many companies and organisations stopped showing them. And then when I do get through its to someone even less competent in comprehension than a bot, maybe they are now bots and I have yet to twig.

AIUI it's a detuned version of the TTS engine, these do suffer with water pump failure. Nothing more to add really than ALL the points Nick has just raised.

@J.R. has been proved right. ECP Bot no 3 now deployed informing me that Bosch warranty is 24 months/24,000 miles so case closed. We've solved your request! AI in action. Didn't understand the issue. Safety/QA not warranty. Pads going in the bin along with Bosch's reputation On 2nd thoughts I'll take them back to the store and instruct them to return them to Bosch for QA to investigate. Whether they do is another matter, but at least I tried to inform them before they kill someone.

This should be list of the main replacement/upgrade part numbers that people usually ask for. Please double check with your dealer the correct part numbers! Although I am 98% that these are correct, VAG can change them and the info that I have could be wrong! KDA 770 001 = Set of 4 door sill kick plates, plain black plastic. KDA 770 003 = Set of 4 door sill kick plates, black plastic with stainless steel inserts. FCA 000 001 = Set of 3 stainless steel pedal covers (fitted as standard to Scout). FFA 700 010 = Leather handbrake handle AZO 700 001 = Facia adaptor with cubby hole to fit a single DIN aftermarket stereo into the OEM double DIN slot KCD 779 001 = Set of 2 wind & Rain deflectors for front windows. KCD 779 002 = Set of 2 wind & Rain deflectors for rear windows. KEA 700 001 = Set of 2 front mudflaps. KEA 770 002 = Set of 2 rear mudflaps. KEA 770 003 = Set of 2 rear mudflaps for Scout. ZGB 5J0 072 100 = Headlight protectors pre face lift only. DCC 770 101A = Set of 4 rubber floor mats DAC 770 102 = Set of 4 textile floor mats DAC 770 103A = Set of 4 deep textile floor mats GCA 700 001 = Under seat fire extinguisher holder. GCA 000 001 = Fire extinguisher. K1Z 086 856 5FY20 = sunglasses holder in roof???. 1Z0 868 565 EY20 = sunglasses holder in roof???. 6Y0 881 577 A47H = Left side under seat storage box fits all old & new Fabias & Roomster. 6Y0 881 578 A47H = Right side under seat storage box fits all old & new Fabias & Roomster. 8P0 802 847 = Plastic Jack Pad Plugs (from Audi S3) projecting 15mm from buffer, 4 required. 8N0 803 855 = Plastic jack pad plugs (from Audi TT) flush fit to buffer, 4 required 8N0 804 583 = Rubber Buffers - (from Audi), 4 required 5J0 071 606 = Front bumper spoiler FAA 770 002 = Rear bumper diffuser KDA 609 002A = Chrome effect boot strip KGA 770 001 = Protective side strips FDC 779 001 = Chrome effect exhaust trim for 1.2HTP, 1.4 16v, 1.6 16v, 1.2TSI FDC 779 002 = Chrome effect exhaust trim for 1.4 TDI, 1.9 TDI, 1.2TDI CR, 1.6TDI CR I am ADDing to this at the momemet as I have a big list of stuff!..

I think this is where that sort of information came from...... Renault went their own way and hence they have this feature they have had for more than a decade of being able to charge at a variety of single phase and 3 phase amperage.. Renault Zoe ZE50 R135 (2021) AC charging characteristics (Active power consumption) measurement

Data can come from many points in the chain. Energy into the motor? -> traction only, not accounting climate and accessaries. Energy from the battery when driving? -> not accounting for when car is parked. (Tesla counts this) All energy from the battery? (such as vampire drain, pre-conditioning usage, sentry mode usage) All energy goes into the battery? Energy delivered at dispenser unit? How is the car going to know about losses between battery input and dispenser unit? Energy went through the meter, with transmission losses before the charge point? Electricity is very efficient in everything (eg. heating, LED lighting, battery storage, inverter/rectifier, transmission) , but there are many small percentage losses everywhere. At some point, a decision must be made on where to measure. I personally don't see any problem only measuring battery consumption during driving. Remembering electricity is priced at 7.5p/kWh for well over 90% of my EV charging. 😜 Today, I drove into London, parked up about 10min walk from Buckingham Palace, a street away from St James' Palace for £1.34 (Westminster 10min parking fee for EV's, max stay 4 hours). This 20 odd miles trip would cost ~60p in electricity at most. No congestion charge, Might as well get most out of parking discounts before it goes away.

@Rooted I think, but have no real idea as I wasn't there or talking with the person from the insurance, that the insurance company may have meant the insurance policy was good for vehicles or mods up to 200hp but not that the overtune or car was suitably set up for such or 140hp, or 110hp, but the tune of the whole car may include the factory differences for all we know, though like you I doubt it other than hopefully, if required, but not necessarily brakes including of course the tyres as part of the braking system. Bear in mind also this is not UK, but again I thought Sweden was stricter about cars than the UK but have never been (anywhere near) there. You and I would probably not need a note in a glovebox to imagine if a 95hp felt too lively on a test drive but would really wonder about it if we thought we were looking at buying a 95hp and it went so in excess of what we were expecting. Off topic warning My neighbour told me his new car was 270hp and when I asked if he meant perhaps torque he said hp, I drove it and confirmed he was mistaken, it turned out on website to be up to (?) 270nm (1800-3750) for the model and max. 155hp (unstated). It has horrible electronics and programing for electronic handbrake especially when combined with start/stop, On give way slowing and quick pull off from roundabouts engine cuts out , or trying to get off very wet mud with the front wheels on 2wd (bl**dy oversized wheels and and oversized (road) tyres). Very intermittent lane annoyance warning thing even when provoked over a long stretch of white lines. Made the VW Fabia start/stop seem very accomplished (mechanical handbrake probably helps too). BTW thanks for the compliment about the petrol list but I just copied off someone else and updated it, I no longer need to worry about such things or inform others about ethanol-free, or can put it in my neighbour's cheap Chinese mower engine so I'm well out of the loop as they say, and you gave me a load of info on this anyway (thanks). Cheers.

@jensbakker I would mistrust what you were told about the 200 hp by whoever. I would want that in writing and that you do not need to declare on your insurance. As it is they have no idea really what change the remapping has made and if 20% of an increase or greater. 110 ps is not just a factory upgrade, and no idea why anyone would think that, it can involve different brake and wheel sizes and gearboxes, gears.

All well and good until you decide to go on that driving trip abroad or even drive 200 miles down south on a Bank Holiday weekend.

Depends on refrigerant pressure when A/C is on. In cold ambient temps this will not necessarily approach the threshold for fan activity.

Cool, I'll check it asap. Thanks.

drop the sump pan and inspect how bad the build up is. unless youve kept up with oil changes you can make things worse with a flush.

Read the TSBs, they go into further details regarding blocked valves etc

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18447/P2015/008213

At my ripe old age - late 70s - I think life’s too short to worry…

Thanks, it's an old barn that we converted. The walls are stupidly thick. So with the insulation the downstairs is always pretty warm.

@pab567 helped me out! all sorted

I'm in a similar position, worked fine in my 21 superb on 8th January when I took it to dealer. Has never worked in my 24 superb, same phone. There are lots of people with all sorts of cars and phones reporting the same thing, wireless will not stay connected. That suggests to me it's AA at fault but I'm only guessing.

I don't think it's an AA issue, worked perfectly on my Octavia the same day I replaced it with my Superb. I'm trying to get in contact with my garage to get the boot fixed as it leaks and randomly opens, also going to ask them if there is a firmware update for the car that fixes it yet. Basically when I first start the car AA wireless connects perfectly, then as the infotainment system finishes booting it force disconnects.

Just because he said he has a Black Box fitted does not mean he actually does. Just have a word with the Community Police Officer. That is why they are there, if they are there or there about and not selectively deaf, dumb or blind or absent when needed.

The parts catalogue diagram and list for a mk2 Fabia front wing are HERE. That should help you get started.

Apples, Pears & Oranges, all fruits. Here just totally different engines from different eras, Euro 5 then Euro 6 Emissions, then Euro 6 & WLTP / RDE2. They are not running test cars with AC on. They just have stuff operating differently, engine management and battery charging and regeneration of batteries.

Maybe the 1.5 Lacks torque for the ac and therefore has to rev higher to manage the compressor

So you're supposed to change the pads every two years or 24k, not fanny about tickling them indefinitely to pinch a couple of bob. Case closed!

nickytheshaft's profile states a VRS

Just priced up a set of pads, discs inc the 4 Streeeeetch bolts, £60 all in. So it looks like I'll be doing them again, myself within the next two weeks. Rung a local independent they wanted £270 to do the same job, buy using pagid parts. Skoda charge £400, gulp, last time I checked. I'm hoping it'll be a little bit easier next time round for me. Plus I've just bought a 24" breaker bar, also use a torque wrench, too. Didn't want the breaker bar too long as I'll be working from the underside of my car.

Mines just been done .... Keep an eye on the coolant level and temp gauge. Get underneath and have a look on your drive for coolant. Look carefully at and around the undertray for fresh signs of coolant. Have a good sniff around the engine bay..... Make sure the neighbours cant see you doing this ... p.s. also make sure the DSG and Haldex oil have been done and the Haldex strainer had a good clean.

We had the same problem with a key fob battery draining for no apparent reason and had to replace it every couple of days. Thinking it was 'damp', I removed the battery and soaked the fob in contact cleaner overnight. It has worked perfectly since. Meths might do just as well.

What you need is a long 'breaker bar' with correct size socket for loosening tight wheel bolts - which may have been previously tightened way too much by gorilla with a hammer-gun. Ideally, the bolts require to be refitted at correct torque, but this can be reasonably estimated with a little experience. It's good practice to have a 'feel' for the correct wheel bolt torque - it's a real pain to find that you can't replace a flat at the roadside because some gorilla tyre fitter has wound the hammer-gun to max!

I wonder how accurate these are for showing voltage and how long they might remain reliable, how the figures compare exactly to a multimeter and/or Carista doesn't really matter as long as the phone charger item gives constant results. Obviously you do as you feel best for you personally I would not bother too much with watching the battery voltage figures and just do periodic checks and/or battery charging as required and/or use the battery charger maintainer twice a year and then as required. You have a good new battery now and the knowledge to get a good life's use out of it so you can relax about the battery. All the best.

On the basis the leak was present when the car was bought and it has not been resolved in a satisfactory fashion under the consumer rights act 2015 you have rights. If the car is financed, contact the finance company concerned. They will persue it as the car is still legally theirs. Section 75 protection applies if any credit card was involved. If debit card, chargeback rules may apply. Check if your insurance has legal cover included maybe. Etc etc

The 1.4tsi being discussed here has a standard VAG steel sump plug and a pressed steel sump. I'd be worried about the oversized sump plug they reportedly fitted. There's no such thing afaik. Sounds like an incompetent mechanic making matters worse. Negligence occured during servicing. Probably at the recent service. Just because it was leaking prior doesnt mean the sump threads were stripped. Highly unlikely and I cite my experience which had similar symptoms. The OP needs to speak directly to Skoda and threaten legal action. The correct solution now is to fit a new sump pan, at the cost of the dealer involved. Or reject the car for a full refund. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04e103602b-oil-pan-1-4tsi-skoda-31107.html

Hi , I have done 32 k in 2 years. Normally charge to 80% and try to keep it above 15%. Occasionaly, I charge to 100 before a long run about once a month and mostly all at 7 kw though it has had about 15 to 20 fast charges on Ionity when I have travelled to Scotland and the occasional London and back in a day. Usually get around 280 in Summer on the Motorway and that decays to 250/260 in winter. No noticeable loss of range so far. One thing I would add is on winter, I fully condition/preheat on mains before departure.

Well i did it my way. I bought a set (ambient light) from Aliexpress with nice LED strips, very narrow and with smooth light effect. So i remove the dash trim inserts. It's pretty easy, you just pull them out of the dash. I will show you the procedure for the small one (from the driver's side) The trim : I cut and attached the LED strip with VHB 3M double side adhesive tape Ready for the installation: The wiring: I decided to put the main module under the central console. so i hid the wires under the driver's foot mat

Ain't she a beaut. 2.0 TSI elegance.

If you have changed your wheel size then it counts as a modification and the insurance company needs to be informed. If you don't, then they can refuse a claim.

Best car I’ve ever had (and I’ve had a few). Why?: So relaxing to drive Quiet Good seating position though some say it’s too low Good space in rear and luggage compartment Good acceleration with kickdown Great economy (have achieved 60mpg on a long run on A roads) Supple ride but no undue roll Infotainment excellent with very few glitches Great toys - Apple AirPlay, heated seats, rear view camera, and (my favourite which I specced as an option), heated steering wheel 100% reliable so far Long life servicing I think you’ll like yours

Looks like they’ve dropped the heated steering wheel option. A shame - I wouldn’t be without mine.

Thank's @digifish there was a similar thread elsewhere and they believed it was resolved with a replacement boot handle. This has been my suspicion too. Our handle is temperamental and the other occurrences I have heard of, all had non-functioning boot handles. I think the microswitch fails in the handle and causes the open/close commands to be sent erratically. Hoping the handle replacement resolves the issue. Doesn't appear to be very common.. and the dealership headed straight for a £1000+ strut replacement. A Boot handle is about £140. I will post again if/when resolved. Hopefully before the unrelenting boot closure guillotines our dog !